For gearheads who cut their teeth on the 1990s Japanese performance wars, the Dodge Stealth (and its twin, the Mitsubishi 3000GT) remains a cult icon. Under that long, swooping hood lies a potent V6, but for many enthusiasts, the stock output—even from the twin-turbo VR-4—leaves them wanting more. Enter the Vortech centrifugal supercharger: a proven bolt-on that can deliver a stunning 150-horsepower gain for roughly $4,500. This isn't a theoretical dyno sheet; these are real-world results from owners who have transformed their Stealth into a genuine street predator. In this expanded guide, we’ll break down the installation, the performance numbers, the hidden costs, and what you can truly expect after the wrenches are put away.

Why the Vortech Supercharger for the Dodge Stealth?

The Dodge Stealth came in three flavors: the base SOHC, the DOHC, and the legendary twin-turbo VR-4. The Vortech supercharger kit is most commonly applied to the naturally aspirated DOHC models (the 222-horsepower 3.0L), but it can also be adapted to the base engine with some creativity. Unlike a positive-displacement blower (like a Roots or screw-type), a Vortech is a centrifugal supercharger. It spins a compressor wheel at high speeds—often up to 50,000–60,000 RPM—turning engine belt power into a forced-induction air stream. This design offers several advantages: it is more efficient at high RPM, produces a linear power curve, and integrates with a stock intake system more easily than many turbo kits.

Compared to a turbocharger conversion (which can cost $6,000–$8,000 for a properly tuned setup on a Stealth), the Vortech kit is simpler and retains the classic supercharger whine that many enthusiasts crave. The result is a car that pulls hard from 3,500 RPM all the way to redline, without the lag associated with spooling a large turbo. It’s a different driving character—more like a factory upgrade than a full-blown race build.

Installation: What You Need to Know

Installing a Vortech supercharger on a Dodge Stealth is not a weekend job for a novice, but it is manageable for an intermediate DIYer with proper tools and a clean workspace. The kit typically includes a cast-aluminum mounting bracket, a V-belt drive system, the supercharger head unit, a blow-off valve, and all necessary piping for the intake and discharge. Here’s a step-by-step walkthrough of the process, with common pitfalls to avoid.

Step 1: Gather Tools and Pre-Install Checks

You’ll need a standard socket set (metric), torque wrench, a serpentine belt tool, coolant and oil catch pans, and a vacuum/pressure gauge for checking boost leaks later. Before starting, test the crank pulley for any wobble—the Vortech places additional load on the accessory drive. Many owners upgrade to a fluidampr harmonic balancer at this point for long-term reliability.

Step 2: Remove the Intake and Accessories

Disconnect the battery. Remove the factory intake air box, mass air flow sensor (MAF), and the entire intake resonator. The Stealth’s engine bay is tight, so you’ll also need to remove the radiator fan shroud and possibly the coolant reservoir bracket to access the front of the engine. Label every hose and connector—the factory service manual is invaluable here.

Step 3: Mount the Bracket and Supercharger

The Vortech mounting bracket bolts directly to the passenger-side cylinder head using the factory accessory-mounting holes. Apply threadlocker to all bolts and torque to spec (usually 35–45 ft-lbs). The supercharger itself then bolts onto this bracket. Ensure the pulley alignment is perfect; a misaligned belt will shred within 20 miles.

Step 4: Install the Piping and Blow-Off Valve

Route the charge pipes from the supercharger discharge to the throttle body. The kit includes a silicone coupler kit and T-bolt clamps. Mount the blow-off valve on the intercooler or charge pipe between the supercharger and throttle body. For a non-intercooled base kit, this is a simple vent-to-atmosphere setup. For VR-4 conversions or intercooled kits, you’ll also need to plumb air-to-air or air-to-water intercooler cores.

Step 5: Reconnect and Test

Reinstall the intake tube (now before the supercharger), connect the vacuum lines for the boost-reference fuel pressure regulator, and slip on the drive belt. Double-check all clamps and fittings. Start the engine, let it idle, and listen for any unnatural scraping or whining beyond the typical supercharger noise. Immediately check for boost leaks using a smoke machine or a pressure tester.

Performance Gains: The 150-Horsepower Claim

The headline figure—150 horsepower—is not marketing fluff; it is a well-documented gain on the Mitsubishi 6G72 engine found in the Stealth. On a dyno, a bone-stock DOHC engine typically reads 180–190 whp (wheel horsepower). After a Vortech S-trim or T-trim supercharger installation running 6–8 psi of boost, owners report 320–340 whp. Assuming drivetrain losses of 15–18%, that works out to about 380–400 crank horsepower, an increase of roughly 150–170 hp over the factory 222 hp.

But the numbers tell only part of the story. The real-world impact is dramatic:

  • Low-end torque: Even though centrifugal superchargers build boost progressively, the DOHC V6’s torque curve is fattened significantly from 2,500 RPM. You no longer have to wind the engine to 5,000 RPM to feel a kick.
  • High-end pull: Above 4,000 RPM, the Vortech transforms the car. The power does not taper off; it keeps building until the rev limiter. This makes highway passing effortless.
  • Throttle response: Unlike a turbo, there is no spool delay. Stomp the pedal and the whine rises instantly in pitch. The car lunges forward with a linear surge that feels like a larger-displacement V8.
  • Top speed: With the additional horsepower, a Vortech-equipped Stealth can easily exceed 155 mph. Some owners have recorded trap speeds in the 114–118 mph range in the quarter-mile—enough to embarrass many modern sports cars.

Fuel System Upgrades: Non-Negotiable

You cannot slap on a supercharger and run the stock fuel system. The engine leans out under boost, risking detonation and catastrophic failure. Vortech kits typically include a boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator (FMU) that raises fuel pressure 1:1 with boost. However, many experienced owners recommend a more robust solution: larger fuel injectors (440cc–550cc), a Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump, and a proper engine management system like a standalone ECU or a piggyback chip. Without these, the 150 hp claim becomes a recipe for a blown engine within 500 miles. Budget for an extra $800–$1,200 for a reliable fuel system.

Cost Breakdown: The Real $4,500

The original article’s cost breakdown is a fair baseline, but we need to expand it to cover realistic expenses. Many Vortech kits are now only available on the used market (the manufacturer no longer produces new kits for this specific platform), so sourcing a complete kit can be tricky. Here is a realistic budget that aligns with owner experiences:

  • Vortech Supercharger Kit (used or NOS): $2,500–$3,500. Include the head unit, bracket, pulleys, belt, and piping.
  • Fuel system upgrades: $600–$1,200 (pump, injectors, regulator, and lines).
  • Engine management: $400–$1,000 (chip tune, piggyback, or standalone if going beyond 8 psi).
  • Professional installation labor: $800–$1,500 (if you cannot do it yourself).
  • Miscellaneous: $200–$500 (gaskets, fluids, hardware, serpentine belt, and potential intercooler core).

Total realistic range: $4,500–$7,700. The $4,500 figure is possible if you buy a used kit, install it yourself, and are comfortable with a simple FMU fuel setup. Most owners end up somewhere in the middle, around $5,500, for a reliable and safe build.

Real-World Owner Experiences (Beyond the Bullet Points)

To give you a genuine taste of what it’s like to live with a Vortech’d Dodge Stealth, we aggregated feedback from forums like 3SI.org and personal interviews. Here are the common themes:

The Good

  • The sound: The high-pitched whine at full throttle is addictive. It turns heads and puts a grin on your face every time you drive.
  • Reliability: When tuned properly, the Vortech-equipped engine can last 60,000+ miles without major issues. The centrifugal design does not generate the immense heat of a turbo, reducing stress on the exhaust manifold and turbocharger.
  • Drivability: Unlike a wild turbo build, the supercharged Stealth remains civilized in traffic. It idles smoothly, and the air conditioning still works. You can daily-drive it without issue.

The Not-So-Good

  • Heat soak: Without an intercooler, intake air temperatures soar after a few hard pulls. This can cause timing retard and power loss. An intercooler upgrade is strongly recommended even on base kits.
  • Belt slip: The stock serpentine belt tensioner is marginal for the added load. Many owners convert to a dedicated supercharger belt with a manual tensioner.
  • Maintenance: The supercharger head unit requires oil changes every 10,000 miles (using special Vortech oil). Also, you must periodically check the blower’s front bearing for play—failure can send metal shards into the engine.

Critical Considerations Before You Buy

Before pulling the trigger on a $4,500+ project, ask yourself these questions:

  • Is your engine healthy? A compression test is mandatory. Any cylinder below 150 psi will cause problems under boost. Oil leaks, worn timing belts, and a weak cooling system must be addressed first.
  • Do you have a plan for engine management? The OEM ECU cannot handle boost. You will need a tune via a chip like a Moates or a standalone like AEM EMS. Factor in dyno tuning costs ($400–$800).
  • Are you prepared for the domino effect? Once you have 400 hp, the brakes, suspension, and tires become inadequate. Upgrading to VR-4 brakes or aftermarket big brakes is almost inevitable. The stock clutch (if manual) will start slipping within a few thousand miles—plan for a performance clutch (e.g., ACT or South Bend).
  • What about emissions? Supercharger kits typically void emissions compliance in many states. If you live in California or a CARB-compliant state, you will not pass smog without a carb-legal kit (rare for this platform).

Comparisons to Other Forced Induction Options

The most popular alternative to the Vortech supercharger is a twin-turbo VR-4 swap or a single-turbo kit. Let’s compare the two:

Feature Vortech Supercharger Turbocharger (Single or Twin)
Installation complexity Moderate – bolts to front of engine High – requires exhaust manifold, oil lines, intercooler piping
Peak power potential 450–500 hp (with intercooler and built bottom end) 600+ hp (with proper fuel and turbo size)
Driving feel Linear, instant response, supercharger whine Laggy at low RPM, explosive surge up top, wastegate sound
Heat management Less exhaust heat; intake heat is manageable with intercooler High underhood temps; requires extensive heat shielding
Cost for reliable 400 hp $5,000–$6,500 $6,000–$9,000

For the street driver who wants a thrilling daily driver, the Vortech supercharger is often the better choice. For the track-focused enthusiast chasing high horsepower numbers, a turbo is more scalable.

Long-Term Reliability Tips

To keep your Vortech-powered Stealth alive for years, follow these maintenance guidelines:

  • Change supercharger oil every 10k miles – use Vortech-approved synthetic fluid.
  • Inspect the drive belt often – a slipping belt can spike boost unpredictably.
  • Upgrade the cooling system – a larger radiator, lower-temperature thermostat, and electric fans help manage the extra heat from prolonged boost.
  • Monitor air/fuel ratio – install a wideband O2 sensor and gauge. Keep AFRs around 11.5–12.0 under full boost for safety.
  • Use high-octane fuel – 91 octane is the minimum; 93 or higher with ethanol blend (E85) allows more boost safely.

Conclusion: Is It Worth It?

Adding a Vortech supercharger to a Dodge Stealth is one of the most rewarding modifications you can make to this platform. The 150-horsepower gain is real and transforms a 1990s grand touring coupe into a modern rocket. For roughly $4,500 to $6,000 (including the necessary fuel and tuning upgrades), you get power that rivals a new Mustang GT or Camaro SS—at a fraction of the cost.

However, it’s not a simple bolt-on. The project demands mechanical skill, a budget for supporting mods, and a tolerance for the quirks of a 25-year-old car. But for those who take the plunge, the reward is a unique, wailing V6 that delivers an authentic performance experience you simply cannot buy off a dealer lot today. If you are ready to turn your Stealth into a sleeper, the Vortech supercharger is the way to go.

For more technical specs and owner build threads, check out the 3SI Wiki on Vortech and the Stealth316 Supercharger Guide. If you’re considering a modern upgrade, Vortech’s current offerings for other platforms can be viewed at VortechSuperchargers.com.