Overview of the ARK Performance Exhaust System for the GR86

The ARK Performance exhaust system is a well-regarded aftermarket upgrade for the Toyota GR86 and Subaru BRZ twins. Designed to improve both power output and acoustic character, this cat-back or axle-back system uses mandrel-bent tubing, high-flow mufflers, and precision welding to deliver noticeable gains across the rev range. Unlike some budget alternatives, ARK exhausts are engineered to minimize drone while maintaining a deep, aggressive tone under load. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step installation walkthrough, along with pro tips that save time and prevent common mistakes. Whether you’re a first-time DIYer or an experienced wrench, following these instructions will ensure a clean installation and years of trouble-free performance.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Having the right tools on hand before you start will streamline the process. The following list covers everything required for a safe and efficient swap.

  • Socket and ratchet set – 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets are most common. A set with extensions and a universal joint helps reach tight spots.
  • Torque wrench – A 1/2″ drive torque wrench rated between 20 and 80 ft-lb is ideal for exhaust flange bolts.
  • Jack and two jack stands – A low-profile floor jack works best. Never rely on the factory scissor jack.
  • Penetrating lubricant – WD-40 or a dedicated rust penetrant (e.g., PB Blaster) to loosen rusted hangers and bolts.
  • Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer – Helps separate stubborn exhaust hangers from rubber isolators.
  • Exhaust gasket set – New crush gaskets for the flange connections. ARK often includes them, but having spares is wise.
  • Anti-seize compound – Copper or nickel-based anti-seize prevents galling and makes future removal easier.
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves – Hot, sharp edges and dripping fluids make these non-negotiable.
  • Shop rags and a catch pan – A small amount of condensation or oil may drip from the old exhaust.
  • ARK Performance exhaust system – Verify all parts are present: main pipe(s), muffler section, hardware, and hangers if included.

Preparation: Setting Up for Success

Proper preparation reduces frustration and ensures a safe work environment. Follow these steps before crawling under the car.

  • Park on level ground – A flat concrete or asphalt surface prevents the vehicle from shifting while on stands.
  • Engage the parking brake – Even with wheel chocks, the foot brake should be locked.
  • Disconnect the battery negative terminal – This eliminates any risk of sparking near the exhaust system and resets the ECU, which helps the car adapt to the new exhaust’s flow characteristics.
  • Allow the engine and exhaust to cool completely – Working on a hot system increases burn risk and makes bolts expand, making removal harder.
  • Jack up the rear of the vehicle – Use the rear differential or the designated factory jack point. Place jack stands under the rear subframe or pinch welds. Ensure the car is stable before going underneath.

Removing the Factory Exhaust

The stock exhaust on the GR86 is straightforward to remove, but rust and carbon buildup can cause stuck fasteners. Work patiently to avoid rounding bolts or tearing rubber hangers.

Step 1: Apply Penetrating Lubricant

Spray penetrating oil on all exhaust flange bolts and the rubber hanger bushings. Allow it to soak for 5–10 minutes while you gather your tools. This is especially helpful if your car has been driven in wet or salty conditions.

Step 2: Loosen the Flange Bolts

There are two main flanges: one at the catalytic converter (or intermediate pipe) and one near the rear axle (on cat-back systems). Use a 14mm socket and a ratchet with an extension to break them loose. If a bolt is stubborn, reapply lubricant and use a breaker bar. Do not use an impact driver on the factory bolts—they are often soft and prone to snapping.

Step 3: Remove the Rubber Hangers

The exhaust is held by a series of oval rubber hangers along the underbody. Spray each hanger bushing with lubricant, then use a flathead screwdriver or a dedicated hanger removal tool to pry the metal rod out of the rubber. For the most stubborn hangers, a rubber mallet tapped on the hanger rod will free it. Work systematically from front to back.

Step 4: Drop the Exhaust

With all bolts and hangers disconnected, carefully lower the factory exhaust. It may be heavy and awkward; enlisting a second person helps avoid bending the mid-pipe or scratching the undercarriage. If the exhaust is stuck on a hanger, rock it gently side to side. Once free, slide it out from under the car.

Step 5: Inspect and Clean Mounting Points

Before installing the new system, inspect the catalytic converter flange and any intermediate pipe flanges for debris or old gasket material. Use a wire brush or a razor blade to scrape the surface clean. A clean mating surface ensures a leak-free seal. Also check the rubber hangers: replace any that are cracked, stretched, or worn.

Installing the ARK Performance Exhaust System

ARK provides clear instructions, but these expanded steps cover nuance that can make the difference between a perfect fit and one that rattles or leaks.

Step 1: Lay Out the New Components

Unpack the ARK exhaust and verify all parts. Most cat-back systems include two main sections: an intermediate pipe (connecting to the mid-pipe or cat) and a rear section with the muffler. Some axle-back systems only replace the rear muffler section. Identify the supplied bolts, washers, and gaskets. ARK typically uses high-quality stainless steel hardware that resists corrosion.

Step 2: Install the Cat-Back Section (If Applicable)

If your system includes an intermediate pipe, loosely connect it to the catalytic converter flange. Do not tighten fully. Use the new gasket supplied by ARK or a high-quality OEM replacement. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the threaded bolts and washers. Hold the pipe in place while you thread the bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.

Step 3: Fit the Rear Muffler Section

Slide the muffler section into the intermediate pipe’s sliding joint or clamp (depending on ARK’s design). Many ARK systems use a two-piece design with a slip joint at the axle. Position the muffler tips so they are centered in the rear bumper cutouts. This is a critical alignment step—poor tip alignment is the most common installation mistake.

Step 4: Install the Hangers

ARK includes new rubber isolators or uses the factory ones. Slide the exhaust hanger rods into the bushings. Use a small amount of soapy water or silicone spray to ease the rubber over the metal. If the rubber is new, it will be stiff—another reason to use a lubricant. Ensure each hanger sits flush and that the exhaust is not pulling on the hanger in an unnatural direction.

Step 5: Tighten All Bolts to Specification

With the exhaust hanging loosely, go back and tighten all flange bolts and clamps. Do not final torque yet. Check that the muffler tips are evenly spaced in the bumper cutout and that there is at least 1/2 inch of clearance between the exhaust pipe and any suspension components or body panels. A good rule: if you can slide a finger between the pipe and the subframe, it’s safe.

Torque Specifications and Final Adjustments

Over-tightening is a common error that can strip threads or crush flanges. Use the following guidelines, which match typical ARK specifications:

  • Flange bolts (cat to intermediate pipe): 30–35 ft-lb
  • Slip joint clamp (if used): 25–30 ft-lb
  • Muffler section bolts: 25–30 ft-lb

After torquing, re-check tip alignment. If the tips are not centered, loosen the slip joint or intermediate pipe bolts, adjust the muffler position, and retighten. The exhaust should not touch any part of the chassis when you shake it gently. If you hear metal-to-metal contact, locate the contact point and adjust the hanger position or pipe orientation.

Post-Installation Checks

Before lowering the car, perform these critical checks to ensure everything is correct.

  • Start the engine – Listen for abnormal rattles, scraping, or excessive noise. A slight hissing at the flanges indicates a leak.
  • Check for leaks – With the engine idling, hold a gloved hand near each flange and slip joint. If you feel air escaping, tighten the corresponding fasteners slightly (be careful not to overheat). For a more precise test, spray soapy water on the joints; bubbles indicate a leak.
  • Inspect clearance – Turn the steering full lock left and right (if the exhaust passes near the rear suspension). Watch for any contact. Also bounce the rear of the car to simulate road movement.
  • Re-torque after heat cycle – After the first 10–15 minutes of driving, allow the exhaust to cool and re-check all fasteners. The expansion and contraction can loosen bolts slightly.

Sound and Performance Characteristics of the ARK Exhaust on the GR86

Understanding what to expect from an ARK system can help you diagnose issues and appreciate the upgrade. Below are common traits noticed after installation.

Sound Profile

ARK offers several variations (e.g., the DT-S, Grip, and cat-back systems) that differ in volume and tone. Generally, ARK exhausts produce a deep, mature note without the raspy high-frequency sound common on cheaper pipes. At idle, the exhaust is noticeably deeper than stock but not obtrusive. Under hard acceleration in the 3000–5500 RPM range, the tone becomes assertive and aggressive, with a subtle burble on deceleration. Drone is minimal thanks to the resonator and muffler design; most owners report a comfortable highway experience.

Performance Gains

While the FA24 engine in the GR86 responds well to exhaust upgrades, the gains are modest—typically 5–8 wheel horsepower and a similar bump in torque on a cat-back system. The real benefit is weight reduction (the stock exhaust is heavier) and improved throttle response due to reduced backpressure. The ECU will adapt to the increased flow over a few drive cycles, so the full benefit may take 50–100 miles to appear.

Maintenance Tips for Your ARK Exhaust System

A stainless steel exhaust from ARK is built to last, but like any exposed component, it requires periodic attention to stay in top condition.

  • Clean the tips regularly – Use a stainless steel polish or a mixture of vinegar and water to remove carbon and road grime. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the finish.
  • Inspect hangers every oil change – Look for cracks, tears, or elongation. A sagging hanger can cause the exhaust to contact the chassis.
  • Check flange bolts for corrosion – Even with stainless hardware, salt and moisture can cause oxidation. Re-torque annually and apply anti-seize if needed.
  • Listen for changes in sound – A sudden increase in volume or a metallic rattle may indicate a loose bracket, a cracked weld, or a broken hanger. Address these promptly to avoid further damage.
  • Consider a heat shield – If you experience excessive cabin heat in the summer, aftermarket heat shields for the muffler are available. ARK systems are designed to run cooler than stock, but extra insulation can help.

Common Installation Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced DIYers can run into issues. Here are the most frequent problems and solutions.

Stuck or Broken Bolts

Factory exhaust bolts are prone to seizing, especially in the rust belt. If a bolt snaps, drill it out carefully or use a bolt extractor. Penetrating oil applied the night before can prevent this. If you live in a snowy climate, consider replacing the fasteners with ARK’s supplied hardware or stainless steel equivalents.

Hanger Rods Won’t Fit

New rubber bushings can be extremely tight. Lubricate with dish soap or silicone spray. If the rod still won’t go through, heat the rubber gently with a heat gun (low temperature) to soften it. Never use fire.

Exhaust Tips Not Centered

This is usually caused by the intermediate pipe being too far forward or the muffler section not rotated to the correct angle. Loosen all connections, align the tips visually, and tighten the front flange first, then the slip joint, then the muffler. It may take two attempts to get perfect.

External Resources for Further Guidance

For additional support, check these reputable sources:

Conclusion

Installing an ARK Performance exhaust system on your GR86 is a rewarding upgrade that improves both the car’s sound and its driving experience. By following this expanded guide—preparing thoroughly, using correct torque values, aligning the tips carefully, and performing post-installation checks—you’ll achieve a professional-quality installation at home. The key is patience: rushing the alignment or skipping the anti-seize can lead to leaks or rattles that detract from the overall enjoyment. Take your time, use the right tools, and your ARK exhaust will provide years of refined performance and an exhaust note that matches the car’s sporty character.