Introduction

The Datsun 510 (also known as the Nissan Bluebird 510) holds a legendary status among Japanese classic car enthusiasts. Its lightweight body, independent rear suspension, and eager 1.6-liter or 1.8-liter L-series engine made it an affordable entry point into motorsport in the 1970s and 1980s. Today, the 510 remains a popular platform for budget builds because of the vast aftermarket support and the sheer amount of performance potential hiding in its simple design. With a budget of $1,000, you can transform a stock 510 from a pleasant vintage cruiser into a genuinely quick, canyon-carving machine. This guide covers the most impactful performance upgrades available for under a thousand dollars, organized by system so you can prioritize based on your goals.

Whether you are building a street car, an autocross competitor, or a weekend track toy, every dollar matters. We have selected parts that offer the best horsepower-per-dollar, handling improvements, and reliability gains. Let’s dive into the upgrades that will make your 510 come alive.

Engine Performance Upgrades

The original L-series engine is tough but choked by 1970s emissions equipment and primitive carburetion. With careful tuning and a few bolt-ons, you can unlock a surprising amount of power while keeping the engine streetable.

Weber Carburetor Conversion

The single downdraft Hitachi carburetor that came on most 510s is a restrictor. Swapping to a dual Weber DCOE side-draft carburetor setup is one of the most famous upgrades in the Datsun world. A complete kit (manifold, linkage, two carbs, air filters) can be found for $500–$700 used or from aftermarket suppliers like Weber Carbs Direct. This change alone can add 15–20 horsepower, dramatically improve throttle response, and give the engine a much more aggressive sound. If budget is tight, a single Weber DGV downdraft conversion is also effective and costs around $300–$400.

Performance Exhaust System

A stock exhaust system is 1.5 inches in diameter with a restrictive muffler. Upgrading to a 2.25-inch mandrel-bent header-back system with a high-flow muffler (such as a Magnaflow or Borla) reduces back pressure and lets the engine breathe. A long-tube header (like those from Datsun Parts LLC) paired with a free-flowing exhaust can add 5–8 horsepower. Budget around $400 for a mild steel header plus $150 for a custom exhaust shop job. Combined with the Weber carb upgrade, you can see significant mid-range torque gains.

Ignition System Modernization

The old points-style ignition is unreliable and leaves power on the table. A Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition conversion replaces the points and condensor inside the distributor for about $100. Pair it with a high-energy ignition coil (e.g., MSD Blaster 2 or Flamethrower) and upgraded spark plug wires. Total cost: around $200. The result is a cleaner spark that ensures complete combustion, smoother idle, and better throttle response. This upgrade is a must-do before tuning the carburetor.

Low-Buck Induction and Fuel Delivery

If your 510 has an L16 or L18 engine, consider swapping to an L20B intake manifold and a larger throttle plate if you retain the stock carb. Junkyard parts from the later Nissan 720 truck are cheap. Also install a new fuel pump—an electric unit like the Carter P4070 ($60) solves vapor lock issues common with mechanical pumps in hot climates. These small tweaks add up without exceeding your total budget.

Suspension and Handling Upgrades

The 510 already handles well for its age, but four decades of wear have taken their toll on bushings and dampers. Upgrading the suspension transforms the car’s character more than any engine mod.

Adjustable Coil-Over Sleeves

Full coil-over conversion kits can be expensive, but sleeve-type coil-overs (such as Ground Control sleeves with Eibach springs) fit over your existing strut tubes and allow ride-height adjustability. A used set can be found for $300–$500. Pair with new KYB GR-2 shocks ($90 each) for a controlled ride. This setup lowers the center of gravity, reduces body roll, and allows corner-weighting for better traction.

Performance Sway Bars

A thicker front sway bar (22mm vs. stock’s 19mm) from a later 200SX or from aftermarket makers like Whiteline costs around $150. Adding a rear sway bar (if your car doesn’t have one) dramatically reduces understeer. Total cost for front and rear aftermarket bars: about $250–$300. This is one of the best bang-for-the-buck handling upgrades.

Polyurethane Bushings

Replace every rubber bushing in the front tension rods, control arms, and rear crossmember with polyurethane pieces. A full kit from companies like Energy Suspension costs under $200. The immediate improvement in steering feel and turn-in response is dramatic. Combined with adjustable coil-overs, your 510 will feel like a modern sports car.

Braking System Improvements

Stopping power is critical for any performance build. The stock 510 brakes are adequate for the original 85 horsepower but become dangerous with even modest engine upgrades. Here are cost-effective ways to improve braking without a full expensive swap.

Performance Brake Pads

High-friction pads like Hawk HP+ or EBC Yellowstuff cost around $60–$80 per axle. They offer much more bite than standard organic pads and work better when hot. These pads are ideal for street-performance driving and light track use.

Slotted or Drilled Rotors

Slotted rotors (like Centric Premium) help outgas pad material and keep the friction surface clean. A set of four cost about $150–$200. The improvement in fade resistance during spirited driving is noticeable. If your rotors are old and thin, replacing them with new blank rotors plus high-performance pads is still a huge improvement.

Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Rubber brake lines expand under pressure, creating a spongy pedal feel. Stainless steel braided lines for a 510 cost around $100–$120 for a full set. They provide a firm, consistent pedal and improved modulation. Combine with a brake fluid flush using DOT 4 fluid (e.g., Motul RBF 600 at $30) for the best results.

Brake Proportioning Valve and Adjuster

If you upgrade rear brakes or install a larger master cylinder, an adjustable proportioning valve (about $40) lets you fine-tune brake bias. This is a cheap but effective way to prevent rear lockup and shorten stopping distances.

Wheels, Tires, and Weight Reduction

Unsprung weight is the enemy of handling. Lighter wheels and stickier tires transform the 510’s behavior, and there are budget ways to achieve this.

Lightweight Alloy Wheels

Factory steel wheels are heavy. Look for used sets of 15-inch Watanabe or SSR mesh wheels (common on Datsun builds) in good condition. Expect to pay $300–$600 for a staggered set. Alternatively, cheap reproduction Watanabe-style wheels from Japan can be found for under $500. Reduced unsprung mass improves acceleration, braking, and ride quality.

High-Performance Tires

Tires are the single most important contact patch. A set of summer performance tires in 195/50R15 (e.g., Falken Azenis RT615K+ or Toyo Proxes R1R) costs around $400–$500 mounted and balanced. They offer immense grip compared to any all-season tire from the 1980s. This upgrade alone can drop lap times by seconds.

Wheel Spacers

To fit wider tires or improve track width, use hub-centric wheel spacers (15mm front, 25mm rear) costing about $80 for a set. They enhance stability in corners and can fill out the wheel arches for a more aggressive stance. Ensure you have longer wheel studs to maintain safety.

Body and Interior Weight Reduction

Weight is free horsepower. Remove the heavy bumpers (replace with lightweight fiberglass or aluminum replicas, about $200 each), strip the interior sound deadening, and install a lighter driver’s seat. Removing the rear seat is free. A total weight reduction of 150–200 pounds is achievable for under $200, improving acceleration and braking commensurately.

Interior and Driver Comfort Upgrades

While not directly increasing power, a more comfortable and connected cockpit makes the car more enjoyable to drive fast.

Racing Seats

A used pair of Corbeau or Sparco fixed-back seats can be found for $300–$500. They hold you in place during cornering and reduce the need to brace yourself. Combined with a four-point harness ($100), you’ll feel more confident pushing the car to its limits.

Steering Wheel

A smaller diameter steering wheel (13–14 inches) like a Nardi or Momo gives quicker steering response and better leg room. Used wheels with a quick-release hub cost around $150–$250. Make sure to use a Datsun-specific hub adapter ($40–$60).

Aftermarket Gauges

Factory gauges are vague and often inaccurate. An oil pressure gauge, water temperature gauge, and wideband air-fuel ratio gauge are essential for monitoring engine health. A basic set can be installed for under $150. The wideband is especially useful for tuning the Weber carburetor to avoid a lean condition that can damage the engine.

Drivetrain Upgrades Under $1,000

Power is useless if it cannot be delivered to the ground reliably. The 510’s original 4-speed transmission and open differential are weak points. With careful shopping, you can upgrade the drivetrain for under $1k.

Clutch Upgrade

A stock clutch slips easily with added power. A Stage 1 performance clutch kit from Exedy or Clutch Masters costs about $250–$300. It provides increased clamping force without a heavy pedal feel, suitable for street and occasional track use. While you have the transmission out, consider replacing the pilot bushing and throw-out bearing.

Limited-Slip Differential

A limited-slip differential (LSD) is the holy grail for corner exit speed. Used CLSD (clutch-type) units from a 200SX or Subaru can be adapted with custom axles, but that can exceed $1,000. A cheaper alternative is a PhantomGrip or lock-right locker for the R160 differential. These cost around $400 and improve traction under acceleration. For a budget build, a good condition open differential with a suitable gear ratio (3.90:1 or 4.11:1) is still an improvement over the stock 3.70:1.

Transmission Swap

If you can find a used FS5W71B 5-speed transmission from a 280Z or 200SX, it’s a direct bolt-in upgrade for the 4-speed. Prices range from $200–$400 at salvage yards. The extra overdrive gear lowers highway RPM and can improve fuel economy. Combined with a short shifter kit ($80), it transforms the driving experience.

Electronics and Engine Management

Modernizing the 510’s electrical system ensures reliability and performance tuning options.

Alternative to Carburetors: Affordable EFI Kits

For about $600–$800, you can piece together a Megasquirt DIY ECU or a used Neon SOHC throttle body EFI system adapted to the L-series. This gives precise fuel and ignition control, better cold starts, and improved fuel economy. While more complex, it is a cost-effective path to modern drivability.

Upgraded Alternator and Wiring

The stock 35-amp alternator is insufficient for an electric fan, stereo, and ignition upgrades. A 70-amp alternator from a Nissan 720 truck bolts on and costs $50–$80 used. Replace the aging fusible links with a modern fuse box ($30) for safety. Total electrical system refresh: under $150.

Putting It All Together: A Sample $1,000 Build

To show how these parts fit within a strict budget, here is one possible allocation for a street-focused 510:

  • Pertronix Ignition + coil + wires: $200
  • Weber DGV downdraft carb + adapter: $350 (used)
  • Stainless brake lines + high-performance pads: $180
  • Polyurethane front tension rod bushings: $40
  • Used 15x7 alloy wheels (set of 4): $150
  • Budget performance tires (Falken Ziex, 4 tires used): $100
  • Total: $1,020 – close enough, and you can skip one item and save.

This build emphasizes braking, handling, ignition reliability, and a bit more power—transforming the 510 into a chuckable, engaging car that can embarrass modern sports cars in the corners.

Conclusion

The Datsun 510 is a true driver’s car, and with just $1,000 you can unlock its performance potential without looking like a track rat. Focus on the systems that give the greatest returns: ignition, suspension damping and bushings, brake components, and lighter wheels with stickier rubber. Avoid expensive big-ticket items like turbo kits or full engine swaps, which can easily consume the entire budget and require supporting mods. By following the upgrades outlined here, your 510 will handle better, stop harder, accelerate more eagerly, and—most importantly—put a bigger smile on your face every time you drive it.

For further reading, check out the Ratsun forum for build inspiration and for sourcing used parts. The community is full of budget-minded builders who have blazed this trail before you. Happy wrenching.