Why Upgrade Your Mopar 360?

The Mopar 360 (often known as the Chrysler LA 360) has been a staple of American muscle and truck performance since its introduction in the 1970s. Its robust cast-iron block, generous displacement, and broad aftermarket support make it one of the most popular small-block engines for hot rodding, restomodding, and even dedicated race builds. Upgrading with aftermarket parts isn’t just about chasing peak numbers—it’s about tailoring the engine to your specific driving style, whether that’s a daily driver with better throttle response, a weekend warrior with tire-shredding torque, or a strip-only machine pushing past 500 horsepower.

  • Increased Horsepower and Torque: A well-chosen intake manifold, camshaft, and header combination can unlock an additional 50–100+ horsepower over a stock 360, depending on the rest of the build.
  • Improved Reliability and Durability: Upgraded valvetrain components, forged pistons, and high-volume oil pumps help the engine withstand higher RPMs and cylinder pressures without failure.
  • Better Fuel Efficiency: While not always the primary goal, a properly tuned aftermarket carburetor or EFI system combined with optimized cam timing can actually improve cruising MPG over a tired stock setup.
  • Enhanced Sound and Throttle Response: Headers, a free-flowing exhaust, and an open-element air cleaner give the 360 that deep, aggressive Mopar rumble and sharpen pedal reaction.

Top Aftermarket Brands for Mopar 360 Parts

Quality aftermarket parts make the difference between a reliable performer and a constant headache. The following brands have earned their reputations through decades of engineering and real-world testing on Mopar small-blocks:

  • Edelbrock – Renowned for intake manifolds (Performer RPM, Air-Gap), carburetors, and cylinder heads. Their parts are known for bolt-on convenience and strong mid-range power.
  • Holley – Dominant in carburetors (4500-series, Street Avenger) and EFI systems (Sniper) as well as intake manifolds and fuel pumps. Holley also owns MSD and Flowmaster, expanding their ignition and exhaust portfolios.
  • Comp Cams – The go-to source for camshafts, lifters, valvetrain components, and timing sets. Their Xtreme Energy and Thumper series are especially popular for 360 builds.
  • Hedman Hedders – Produces a wide range of headers, from budget-friendly painted steel to high-end ceramic-coated long-tube designs for maximum scavenging.
  • Mopar Performance (Direct Connection) – OEM-level quality with specialized parts like cast-iron exhaust manifolds, high-flow heads (such as the “W2” and “W5” series), and factory-correct performance cams.
  • AFE Power – Leading manufacturer of cold-air intake systems and air filters designed to increase airflow without sacrificing filtration. Many of their kits are dyno-proven for the 360.
  • MSD Ignition – Provides high-energy ignition systems, coils, distributors, and digital programmers that improve spark reliability under high-RPM and high-compression conditions.
  • Flowmaster – Famous for their American-made mufflers and exhaust systems that deliver a distinctive sound while reducing backpressure. Their 40-series and 10-series are common on Mopar 360 builds.

Essential Aftermarket Parts for Mopar 360

Building a performance 360 requires selecting complementary parts that work together as a system. Below are the most impactful upgrades, from the air intake to the exhaust, with specific product recommendations and considerations.

Intake Manifolds

An aftermarket intake manifold is often the first major upgrade because it directly influences how much air-fuel mixture enters the cylinders. For a street-driven 360, the Edelbrock Performer RPM (non-EGR version) is a classic choice. It offers excellent low-end torque while still pulling hard to 5,500–6,000 rpm. The Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap takes it a step further with a dual-plane design that separates the runners from the engine heat, keeping the charge cooler and denser. For high-horsepower builds (400+ hp), a single-plane intake like the Holley Street Dominator or Weiand Stealth shifts the power band upward and supports higher airflow.

Price Range: $300–$700. Expect to pay $400–$500 for a quality dual-plane, and $500–$700 for a race-oriented single-plane. Installation requires a new intake gasket set, thread sealant, and a torque wrench—plan for 4–6 hours of labor.

Headers and Exhaust

Stock exhaust manifolds on the 360 are restrictive, especially the log-style units found on trucks and vans. Replacing them with headers is one of the most cost-effective ways to gain 15–30 horsepower. Hedman Hedders offers several options: shorty headers for easy installation with automatic transmissions, and long-tube headers for maximum scavenging at higher RPMs. If ground clearance is a concern, look for the “Elite Series” coated long-tubes that resist corrosion. Doug's Headers also produces a bolt-in set specifically for A-body Mopars with power steering and big-block conversion clearance.

Pair the headers with a 2.5-inch or 3-inch exhaust system using an X-pipe or H-pipe crossover. Flowmaster Outlaw Series mufflers provide a deep tone without drones at cruise; Borla Pro XS are quieter but flow even more. Don’t forget the exhaust gaskets, header studs, and collector gaskets—use Stage 8 or similar locking bolts to prevent leaks.

Price Range: $200–$600 for headers; $400–$1,200 for a full cat-back kit. Installation can be 3–8 hours depending on bolt access (especially on trucks).

Camshafts and Valvetrain

Choosing the right camshaft defines your engine’s personality. For a torquey street engine, the Comp Cams 268H (part #CL22-218-2) offers a smooth idle, strong low-end, and pulls to 5,200 rpm. For a more aggressive street/strip cam, the Comp Xtreme Energy XE274H makes power from 2,000 to 6,000 rpm with a noticeable lope. If you’re building a dedicated race motor aiming for 6,500+ rpm, look at the Comp XR298R solid roller cam. Always replace lifters, springs, retainers, keepers, and pushrods with a cam upgrade—stock valvetrain parts may fail under higher spring pressures.

Important: Longer-duration cams require a higher-stall torque converter (2,500–3,000 rpm) for automatic transmissions to keep the engine in the power band. Also, consider a double-roller timing chain set (e.g., Cloyes Street Series) for durability.

Price Range: $150–$500 for the camshaft alone; a full valvetrain kit (cam, lifters, springs, timing set) runs $400–$900. Installation involves removing the radiator, front cover, and timing components—expect 6–10 hours if you’re DIY.

Carburetor and Fuel System

A high-performance carburetor ensures the engine receives the proper air-fuel mixture at all loads. The Edelbrock 750 CFM AVS2 is an excellent choice for 360s with a mild cam and dual-plane intake; it’s easy to tune and features annular boosters for crisp throttle response. For larger cams and single-plane intakes, consider the Holley 750 CFM Ultra Double Pumper (part #0-82751) with mechanical secondaries for instant acceleration. For street cars, the Holley Street Avenger 770 CFM is vacuum-secondary and more forgiving.

If you prefer electronic fuel injection, the Holley Sniper 2G 4150 system offers self-tuning, no-hassle cold starts, and improved drivability. It includes a wideband O2 sensor and handheld controller. You’ll need a high-pressure electric fuel pump (e.g., Holley Red or Blue), regulator, and return line. The Sniper system will require a few hours more installation time but eliminates carburetor setup headaches.

Don’t overlook the fuel tank and lines—upgrade to at least 3/8-inch steel or AN-rated fuel line to supply a thirsty 360.

Price Range: Carburetor $250–$800; Sniper EFI kit $700–$1,200. Add $100–$200 for a fuel pump and regulator.

Air Intake Systems

A cold-air intake gets cooler, denser air into the engine, which can add 5–15 horsepower when combined with other upgrades. The AFE Power Momentum GT system features a high-flow filter and an insulated intake tube to reduce heat soak. For Mopar trucks and earlier muscle cars, Spectre Performance offers universal air cleaner assemblies (14-inch round, 3-inch filter height) with a polished lid that can be customized. Pair any intake with a high-flow filter (K&N, AFE Pro Dry) that can be cleaned and reused.

Price Range: $150–$400 for a complete cold-air kit; $40–$100 for a drop-in replacement filter.

Ignition System

Stronger spark ensures complete combustion, especially with increased compression or boost. The MSD 6AL-2 CNP Programmable Ignition Box (PN 6530) allows you to control timing curves, rev limits, and even retard timing for boost. Pair it with an MSD Pro-Billet Distributor (PN 8546 for LA 360) and MSD Blaster 2 Coil. For a simpler upgrade, a F.A.S.T. Street & Strip Billet Distributor with a built-in coil and adjustable mechanical advance is a direct bolt-on. Always upgrade spark plug wires to a spiral-core 8mm set (e.g., Taylor 8mm Thundervolt) for reduced RFI.

Price Range: Ignition box $200–$500; distributor $150–$300; coil $40–$80; wires $60–$120.

Cooling System

A performance 360 generates more heat. Upgrade the mechanical fan to an electric unit (e.g., Derale Performance Dual Fan Kit) for better airflow at idle and less parasitic drag. A high-flow water pump (like the Edelbrock 8860) and a 3-row aluminum radiator (e.g., Be Cool or Mishimoto) improve cooling capacity. Don’t forget a 180°F thermostat for street use or a 160°F for track-focused cars.

Price Range: Radiator $250–$600; electric fan kit $150–$350; water pump $50–$150.

Price Points for Aftermarket Parts

Building a Mopar 360 on a budget is possible, but you get what you pay for. Here is a realistic breakdown of today’s market prices (USD) for quality aftermarket parts:

  • Intake Manifold (dual-plane aluminum): $300–$700
  • Headers (painted steel long-tube): $200–$600
  • Camshaft (hydraulic flat tappet): $150–$500
  • Carburetor (750 CFM vacuum secondary): $250–$800
  • EFI System (Sniper 4150): $700–$1,200
  • Air Intake System (cold air, high flow): $200–$400
  • Ignition Box (MSD 6AL-2): $300–$500
  • Distributor (billet, adjustable): $150–$300
  • Electric Fan Kit (dual, 16”): $150–$350
  • Aluminum Radiator (3-row): $250–$600

These prices cover major brand new parts; many are available from Summit Racing or JEGS. Budget for gaskets, fluids, and a tune-up kit (spark plugs, thermostat, belt) to the tune of $100–$200. If you’re having a shop install them, add 10–20 hours of labor at $100–$150/hour.

Tuning and Compatibility

Even the best aftermarket parts can disappoint if they aren’t matched correctly. The 360’s 3.58-inch stroke (same as a 340) and 4.00-inch bore respond well to moderate overlap and lift. When choosing parts, consider:

  • Intake and Cam Match: A dual-plane intake works best with cams under 280° advertised duration (such as Comp XE274H). Single-plane intakes shine with cams above 290°.
  • Carburetor CFM Needs: A mildly built 360 (350–400 HP) needs 650–750 CFM; a 500+ HP engine requires 800–850 CFM. Oversizing can cause bogging and poor fuel atomization.
  • Ignition Timing: Start at 12°–16° initial advance and 34°–36° total advance (all in by 2,500 rpm). Use a vacuum advance for street driving. Programmable ignitions allow fine-tuning for altitude and fuel quality.
  • Transmission and Stall Speed: A cam with 0.480” lift and 268° duration needs a stall converter around 2,200–2,800 rpm. Factory torque converters (1,200–1,800 rpm) will make the car feel sluggish off the line.
  • Fuel Quality: High-compression builds (10.5:1+) require premium pump gas (91 octane) or a mix of race fuel. Consider reducing compression to 9.5:1 if you want reliability with today’s pump gas.

Always perform a thorough leak-down test after assembly and before first startup. Break in the camshaft with a high-zinc break-in oil (e.g., Driven BR40) and new lifters—failure to do so can wipe a cam lobe within minutes.

Building for Your Goals

Street Performance / Daily Driver

Goal: 350–400 HP with good manners. Parts: Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Comp Cams XE268H or 268H, Hedman shorty headers, 750 CFM Edelbrock AVS2, MSD 6AL box, Flowmaster 40-series mufflers. Keep the stock converter or upgrade to 2,200 stall. Budget: $2,500–$4,000.

Street/Strip (Weekend Warrior)

Goal: 450–550 HP, lopey idle, 12-second quarter-mile potential. Parts: Edelbrock Air-Gap or Holley Street Dominator, Comp XE274H or Thumper 276HR, long-tube headers, Holley 750 DP, MSD 6AL-2 with Pro-Billet distributor, 3,000-stall converter, and 3.55–4.10 rear gears. You’ll also need forged pistons (dished for ~10.0:1 compression) and a girdle for the bottom end. Budget: $5,000–$8,000.

Full Race / N/A

Goal: 600+ HP, high RPM, dedicated track use. Parts: Solid roller cam (Comp XR294R or similar), single-plane intake (Weiand Team G), custom headers with 1¾-inch primaries, Holley 850 DP or Dominator, MSD 7531 ignition, forged rotating assembly (Scat or Eagle), aluminum heads (Edelbrock Victor or Indy), and a high-rpm converter (4,000+). Expect to spend $10,000–$15,000 just on parts, with extensive machining.

Conclusion

Upgrading your Mopar 360 with aftermarket parts is one of the most rewarding projects you can tackle. By choosing respected brands—Edelbrock, Holley, Comp Cams, Hedman, MSD, and others—you gain proven reliability and a massive network of tech support. Remember to plan your build around a clear goal (street, strip, or both), budget for complementary modifications, and never skip the tuning phase. The 360 may be a smaller small-block, but with the right combination of parts, it can hang with engines twice its displacement. Get your hands dirty, respect the break-in procedures, and you’ll have a Mopar powerhouse that turns heads at every cruise night.