Unlocking Full Off-Road Potential: Installing a 2″ Old Man Emu Suspension on Your 80 Series

Upgrading your Land Cruiser 80 Series with a 2‑inch Old Man Emu (OME) suspension kit is one of the most effective ways to improve on‑road manners and off‑road capability. The 80 Series is legendary for its solid axles and coil‑spring suspension, but factory components are often worn or undersized after decades of service. An OME 2″ lift restores ride height, increases ground clearance, and boosts load capacity – all while maintaining the trusted reliability that made this truck an icon. This guide walks you through the entire installation process, from selecting the right kit to post‑alignment checks. Whether you are a weekend DIY mechanic or a first‑time lifter, these steps will help you complete the job safely and correctly.

Why Choose Old Man Emu for Your 80 Series?

Old Man Emu has been engineering suspension systems for adventure vehicles since the 1970s. Their reputation among 4×4 enthusiasts is built on real‑world testing, vehicle‑specific valving, and robust construction. For the 80 Series, OME offers a complete 2″ lift kit that includes matched springs and shock absorbers, designed to work together as a system. Key benefits include:

  • Improved Ride Quality – OME shocks are valved to control the heavy 80 Series body without harshness, providing a compliant ride on gravel roads and washboard surfaces.
  • Increased Ground Clearance – A full 2″ lift allows larger tires (typically 285/75R16 or 315/75R16) and improves approach, departure, and breakover angles.
  • Enhanced Load‑Carrying Capacity – The medium‑load and heavy‑load spring options are designed for vehicles with bull bars, winches, drawers, and roof tents. The suspension maintains proper ride height under load rather than sagging.
  • Consistent Performance – Unlike generic lift spacers, OME springs are wound to specific spring rates and free heights for the 80 Series, ensuring predictable articulation and stability.

For comparison, you can read more about OME’s engineering philosophy on their official website: Old Man Emu Suspension Systems.

Selecting the Right OME Kit for Your Cruiser

The 80 Series is available in various configurations: petrol and diesel engines, auto and manual transmissions, and with or aftermarket heavy accessories. OME offers different spring rates to match your vehicle’s weight. Most installations use the following combinations:

  • OME 850/860 or 851/861 – Front/rear medium load (factory weight with minimal accessories).
  • OME 850J/860J or 851J/861J – Heavy‑load springs for vehicles with steel bumpers, winches, dual batteries, and rear drawers.
  • Shocks – Front: N73L or N72A; Rear: N74L or N74E. The “L” and “E” designate different valving for varying loads.

If you’re unsure which springs to choose, consult the Old Man Emu spring selectors or a reputable 4×4 specialist. Overloading the correct spring rate is critical – too soft will sag, too hard will compromise ride quality when unloaded.

Tools and Materials Required

Before you start, gather all necessary tools. Having everything on hand will prevent mid‑project trips to the hardware store.

  • Complete Old Man Emu 2″ suspension kit (springs and shocks)
  • 3‑ton jack and two heavy‑duty jack stands
  • Set of metric sockets (10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 22 mm)
  • Combination wrenches (same sizes)
  • Torque wrench (capable of 100+ ft‑lbs)
  • Coil spring compressors (internal or external type)
  • Breaker bar and ½” drive ratchet
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench)
  • Anti‑seize compound
  • Safety glasses and heavy‑duty gloves
  • Wire brush to clean mounting points
  • Alignment shop appointment scheduled in advance

Additionally, consider purchasing optional components that are often recommended with a 2″ lift:

  • Caster correction bushes or offset radius arm bushes (to correct steering return‑to‑center)
  • Brake line extension brackets or extended lines
  • Sway bar drop brackets (to maintain sway bar geometry)
  • Extended differential breathers

Step-by-Step Installation Process

Work safely at all times. Never rely on the jack alone – always use jack stands. Disconnect the battery negative terminal while working near wiring. Allow yourself a full weekend for the job; rushing increases the chance of mistakes.

1. Prepare the Vehicle

Park the Cruiser on a level concrete surface. Chock the wheels that will remain on the ground. Loosen the front and rear wheel lug nuts (but do not remove). Lift the front of the vehicle by the frame or crossmember, then place jack stands under the frame rails behind the front tires. Repeat for the rear, lifting by the axle housing and placing stands under the frame in front of the rear wheels. You may need to jack one end at a time to keep the vehicle stable.

2. Remove the Front Wheels and Brake Components

Remove the wheels and set them aside. To access the front shocks, you may need to remove the lower brake caliper bracket (two 17 mm bolts) and hang the caliper with a zip tie – do not let it hang by the brake hose. This step is often necessary to create clearance when extracting the old shock absorber.

3. Remove the Front Old Shocks and Springs

Start with the front shocks. The lower shock bolt is a 19 mm; the upper is either a 17 mm nut on a stud or a 19 mm bolt depending on year. Spray penetrating oil and let it soak before trying. Remove the lower bolt first, then the upper, and pull the old shock out.

Next, remove the front coil springs. A coil spring compressor is mandatory – the 80 Series front springs are under significant tension. Position the compressor arms opposite each other and compress the spring until it can be removed from the upper spring tower. Make sure the lower spring seat is unbolted (two 17 mm bolts). Remove the old spring and set aside.

Note: If your 80 Series has a factory or aftermarket stabiliser (sway) bar, you may need to disconnect the sway bar link from the axle to allow enough droop. Use a 14 mm wrench and socket for the link nuts.

4. Install the Front New OME Springs and Shocks

Compress the new OME front spring using the same compressor. Position it in the lower spring perch, ensuring the end of the coil sits in the recess. Slowly decompress the spring while guiding it into the upper mount. Do not release tension abruptly – control the decompression.

Install the front shock absorber. Extension the shock to its full length and insert the upper stud into the mount. Hand‑tighten the top nut. Compress the shock slightly to align the lower eye with the axle bracket. Insert the lower bolt and tighten both fasteners to the recommended torque. For the 80 Series, torque the lower shock bolt to 80‑90 ft‑lbs and the upper nut to 35 ft‑lbs (if a nut) or 80 ft‑lbs if bolted. Recheck all fasteners after the vehicle is on the ground.

5. Repeat for the Rear Suspension

The rear procedure is similar but slightly different due to the live axle design. Lift the rear of the vehicle using the axle housing, then place jack stands under the frame. Remove the wheels.

Disconnect the rear sway bar links if equipped. Remove the lower shock bolts (22 mm) and the upper shock bolts (19 mm). Pull out the rear shocks. Use a spring compressor for the rear coil springs – these are often easier than the front because there is more room. Remove the lower spring retaining clip if present (some models have a bolt holding the spring into the lower seat).

Install the new OME rear springs: compress them, place them onto the lower spring seat, and decompress carefully. Make sure the spring is seated in the upper mount. Install the new rear shocks: attach the upper bolt first, then the lower. Torque rear shock bolts to 90 ft‑lbs for the lower and 45 ft‑lbs for the upper (if a nut).

6. Reattach Wheels and Lower the Vehicle

With all four corners done, reinstall the wheels, hand‑tighten the lugs, and lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the wheels to 85‑90 ft‑lbs in a star pattern. Do this after the vehicle’s weight is on the ground, not while it’s in the air.

7. Perform Final Torque Checks and Inspections

Now that the suspension is at static ride height, tighten all bolts to final torque. Pay special attention to the shock and sway bar link fasteners. Inspect brake lines, ABS sensor wires, and breather tubes for any tension or binding. If they are stretched taut, you must install drop brackets or longer lines before driving. Turn the steering full lock left and right in a safe area to check for tire clearance against the frame or body. If you are running larger tires than stock, some trimming may be needed.

Post-Installation: Alignment, Break-In, and Tuning

After a 2″ lift, the front wheel alignment will be out of specification. The toe will be incorrect, and caster will be reduced – causing poor steering return and possible wandering. This is normal and fixable.

Wheel Alignment

You must get a professional alignment. Inform the shop that the vehicle has a 2″ lift. They will adjust toe‑in to factory specs (typically 1/16″ to 1/8″ toe in). Caster correction may require offset radius arm bushes or adjustable panhard rods. OME sells caster correction bushes (part number OMEUMC‑1 or similar) that can be pressed into the radius arm ends. Without correction, the steering may feel vague. The alignment shop can advise if correction is needed; many 80 Series owners find that 2″ lift does not require caster correction, but older trucks with slight sag combined with lift often benefit.

Settling and Break-In

New OME springs will settle approximately ½” over the first few hundred miles. Do not make any final ride‑height adjustments until you have driven at least 500 miles with your typical load. After break‑in, you can assess whether you need a spacer or a different spring rate. During the break‑in period, avoid extreme off‑road articulation to allow the spring windings to settle evenly.

Check Torque Again

After 500 miles, recheck all suspension fasteners. The constant flexing can loosen bolts that were only hand‑tight. Re‑torque everything to spec. This is also a good time to inspect for any signs of interference – such as the shock body rubbing the coil spring or the tire hitting the inner fender.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Stuck Bolts – Use penetrating oil the night before. If a bolt is seized, use heat (with caution near fuel lines) or an impact gun. Never use a cheater pipe on a rusty bolt without proper safety glasses.
  • Spring Compressor Slip – Always use two compressors for heavy coils. Compress evenly and never release tension when the spring is not secured in the perch.
  • Brake Line Stress – After the lift, have an assistant turn the steering full lock while you check the brake lines. If they are taut, install drop brackets. A ruptured brake line on the trail is dangerous.
  • Overtorquing Bolts – Use a torque wrench for critical fasteners. Over tightening can strip threads in the aluminum shock eyes or snap bolts.
  • Neglecting Sway Bar Links – If you installed sway bar drop brackets, ensure the links are not angled severely. Extended sway bar links are recommended for 2″ lifts.

Additional Considerations for 80 Series Specific Models

Different 80 Series variants have slight differences:

  • Diesel vs. Petrol – Diesel engines (1HD‑T, 1HD‑FT, 1FZ‑FE) are heavier. If you have a diesel with a turbo and intercooler, opt for the heavy‑load front springs (851J) even if you have no bull bar. Similarly, the automatic transmission adds weight over the manual.
  • Locking Differentials – The extra weight of factory lockers and their actuators is minimal, but if you have a fully locked truck with heavy axles, consider medium‑heavy springs.
  • Body Lift? Not Needed – A 2″ suspension lift does not require a body lift for 33″ tires. For 35″ tires, a 1″ body lift may help with clearance, but that is beyond this guide.

Resources and Parts Suppliers

For authentic Old Man Emu parts and technical advice, check these resources:

  • Official ARB Old Man Emu Website – Spring rates, shock specifications, and fitment guides.
  • IH8MUD forum – The largest 80 Series owner community with hundreds of installation threads and real‑world reviews.
  • Slee Off-Road – Longtime 80 Series specialist, offering complete kits and caster correction components.

Final Thoughts

Installing a 2″ Old Man Emu suspension kit on your Land Cruiser 80 Series is one of the most rewarding upgrades you can tackle. The result is a truck that rides better, corners with more confidence, and conquers off‑road obstacles that would have scrapped the factory bumpers. With careful preparation, the right tools, and patience, you can complete this installation in a weekend. After a proper alignment and a few hundred miles of driving, you’ll understand why the 80 Series with OME suspension is a benchmark in overlanding capability. Take your time, double‑check every bolt, and enjoy the transformation.