Introduction to the Scion FR‑S Performance Path

The Scion FR‑S (and its mechanical twins, the Subaru BRZ and Toyota 86) has earned a devoted following thanks to its light curb weight, low center of gravity, and rear‑wheel‑drive chassis. Under the hood sits the FA20 engine – a 2.0‑liter naturally aspirated boxer‑four that delivers roughly 200 horsepower from the factory. While that output is adequate for spirited daily driving, the platform really comes alive with the right combination of modifications.

Understanding the cost landscape is critical whether you’re building a weekend autocross weapon, a street‑focused canyon carver, or a high‑horsepower track machine. Performance parts range from $200 cold air intakes to full turbo kits exceeding $5,000. This guide breaks down the most popular FR‑S mods by cost category, provides real‑world gains, and helps you prioritize where to spend your budget.

Understanding the FA20’s Power Potential

The FA20 engine is a high‑compression (12.5:1) direct‑injection boxer motor. In stock form it breathes well for a naturally aspirated 2.0L, but its true potential is unlocked when you address intake, exhaust, and engine management. Without forced induction, typical gains from bolt‑ons range from 15–30 whp. Adding a supercharger or turbo can push output to 300–400 whp on a built bottom end, though the cost climbs quickly.

Before diving into part costs, keep in mind that every modification should be considered part of a system. A cold air intake without a tune may not yield full benefits; a turbo kit without upgraded fuel injectors can lead to detonation. We’ll highlight these dependencies throughout the cost breakdown.

Entry‑Level Bolts‑On (Under $500)

These are the most accessible upgrades for owners wanting noticeable improvements in sound, throttle response, and modest power without breaking the bank. Most can be installed in a driveway with basic hand tools.

Cold Air Intakes ($200–$400)

A cold air intake replaces the restrictive factory airbox with a larger tube and high‑flow filter. Popular options include the K&N Typhoon Series ($220–$260), AEM Induction System ($280–$350), and the Perrin CAI ($360–$400). Dyno results typically show 5–8 whp gains when paired with a tune. Without a tune, gains are smaller but throttle response and induction noise improve noticeably.

Be aware that some intakes require removing the driver‑side headlight for fitment (common with larger “dry” filters). Always choose a proper cold air intake that draws air from outside the engine bay, not just a “short ram” setup that pulls hot under‑hood air.

Equal‑Length vs. Unequal‑Length Headers ($350–$500)

Headers are one of the best power‑per‑dollar upgrades for the FA20. The stock exhaust manifold is restrictive. An aftermarket set can unlock 10–15 whp when combined with a tune. Two main designs exist:

  • Equal‑Length (EL) Headers – Provide smooth, linear power delivery and improved top‑end. Brands include JDL Auto Design ($450–$500) and Tomei Expreme EL ($480).
  • Unequal‑Length (UEL) Headers – Produce the classic Subaru “boxer rumble” sound, with a slight sacrifice in peak power compared to EL. The UEL Borla header (~$420) is a popular choice for those wanting the iconic exhaust note.

Installation is moderately challenging (soaking bolts, access to the bottom) but doable with ramps and patience. Factor in $100–$200 for a professional install if you’re not confident.

Lightweight Crank Pulley ($180–$250)

Replacing the heavy factory harmonic damper with an aluminum lightweight pulley reduces rotational mass on the crankshaft. Gains are small (2–4 whp) but throttle response sharpens noticeably. The Perrin Lightweight Crank Pulley is the most common choice at ~$200. It’s a 30‑minute install and a great early upgrade.

Mid‑Range Upgrades ($500–$1,500)

This bracket offers the best balance of cost and real‑world performance gains. Here you start to address airflow, suspension, and engine management in a meaningful way.

Full Exhaust Systems – Catback vs. Header‑Back ($600–$1,200)

Building on headers, a quality catback exhaust removes the rear mufflers and replaces the pipes with larger‑diameter (2.5″–3″) tubing. Expect 3–6 whp gains when paired with a tune. Brands like Greddy Supreme SP ($700), Injen SES ($550), and Borla S‑Type ($800) offer different sound profiles from deep and loud to refined.

For maximum naturally aspirated power, consider a header‑back system (includes header, front pipe, and catback). A full JDL EL header with a front pipe and catback can run $1,200–$1,500 but yields 15–20 whp gains on a tuned car.

Note: Removing catalytic converters (sometimes required for full header‑back) may cause emissions test failures in some states. Check local regulations before deleting cats.

ECU Tuning – Open Flash Tablet vs. ECUTek ($400–$1,000)

No other mod delivers more return than proper engine management. The FA20’s factory calibration is conservative. With a tune you can safely run 91+ octane, optimize ignition timing, and adjust for mods.

  • OpenFlash Tablet (OFT) – $500. Self‑tuning via preset maps (e.g., Stage 1 for stock, Stage 2 for headers). Easy to use, but limited to off‑the‑shelf tunes. Good for hobbyists.
  • ECUTek – $600–$1,000 (plus custom dyno tuning). Professional calibration with advanced features (flex fuel, launch control, flat‑foot shifting). Requires a tuner session (additional $500–$1,000). This is the choice for serious builds.

External resource: FT86Club.com is an invaluable community with thousands of dyno threads comparing OFT vs. ECUTek results.

Suspension – Coilovers vs. Springs & Shocks ($700–$1,500)

Improving handling transforms the FR‑S, which already handles well from the factory. For aggressive street and track use, coilovers are the best investment.

  • Entry‑level coilovers (BC Racing, Tein, Megan) – $700–$1,100. Adjustable ride height and damping.
  • Mid‑range coilovers (KW Variant 1, Ohlins DFV, HKS Hipermax IV GT) – $1,200–$1,800. Better valving and reliability for track days.
  • Spring/Shock combos (RCE Tarmac with Bilstein shocks) – $800–$1,200. A good choice if you prefer a progressive rate without full coilover complexity.

Don’t forget to budget for an alignment after suspension work ($100–$150).

Wheels & Tires – Lighter & Stickier ($1,000–$1,500)

Upgrading from the stock 17×7″ wheels and all‑season tires is one of the most impactful changes for both lap times and driving feel. Lightweight 17×9″ or 18×8.5″ wheels paired with 200‑tw extreme performance summer tires (like Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 or Hankook RS‑4) will transform grip.

  • Enkei RPF1 17×8″ – ~$200 per wheel (new)
  • Bridgestone RE‑71RS 245/40R17 – ~$180 each
  • Total set: ~$1,300 installed

Even a slightly wider tire on a lightweight wheel reduces unsprung mass and improves turn‑in response dramatically.

High‑Performance Forced Induction ($1,500–$7,000+)

For owners wanting genuine power that transforms the car, forced induction is the only path. Costs escalate quickly due to supporting components (fuel system, cooling, clutch).

Supercharger Kits ($3,000–$6,000)

Centrifugal or positive‑displacement superchargers bolt onto the FA20 with relative ease. Kits include the supercharger, intake piping, intercooler (for some), and calibration.

  • Edelbrock Stage 1 – ~$4,000. Eaton TVS roots‑type, CARB legal, delivers 250–270 whp on pump gas.
  • Harrop HTV86 – ~$4,500. Similar Eaton blower, excellent heat management.
  • Vortech V3 Si – ~$3,000 (kit without tune). Centrifugal, requires separate programmable ECU (often ECUTek).

These kits achieve reliable power with minimal fabrication. However, you’ll need to budget for a clutch upgrade ($600–$1,200) and often an oil cooler ($400–$700) for track use.

Turbo Kits – Budget to Premium ($1,200–$7,000)

The original article mentions a $1,200 turbo kit. At that price point, you’re looking at a homemade or generic kit with a used turbo – doable by experienced fabricators but risky. A proper complete turbo kit from a reputable company (full turbo manifold, downpipe, intercooler, oil lines, and tune) starts around $3,500.

  • PTuning Street Turbo Kit – $4,200, 300–350 whp on 91 octane.
  • Full Race Twin‑Scroll Kit – $6,000+, top tier for spool and response.
  • Avid Turbo Kit – $2,800 (requires own tuning). Budget option, but quality concerns.

Critical considerations: Turbo kits add heat. A quality radiator, oil cooler, and possibly a hood vent or heat wrap are essential for longevity. Also budget for a professional dyno tune ($600–$1,000).

Building a Balanced Build – Suggested Priority Plans

Instead of buying parts randomly, follow a staged plan to maximize your dollar and avoid re‑work.

Stage 1 – Daily Driver & Autocross ($1,000–$1,500)

  • Cold air intake ($250)
  • ECU tune ($500)
  • Springs & shocks or entry‑level coilovers ($800)
  • High‑performance summer tires ($600)

Result: 10–15 whp gain, dramatically better handling, improved driver engagement.

Stage 2 – Track & Spirited Street ($2,500–$4,000)

  • Add equal‑length headers ($500)
  • Full catback exhaust ($700)
  • Upgrade to mid‑range coilovers ($1,200)
  • Lightweight wheels + 200TW tires ($1,300)

Result: 20–25 whp, strong mid‑range torque, capable of sub‑2:00 lap times at most tracks.

Stage 3 – Forced Induction ($5,000–$8,000 additional to Stage 2)

  • Supercharger or turbo kit ($4,000)
  • Clutch upgrade ($800)
  • Oil cooler & radiator ($600)
  • ECU custom tune ($1,000)

Result: 300+ whp, requiring upgraded brakes and maybe a limited‑slip differential.

Hidden Costs Beyond Parts

Many first‑time modifiers forget these expenses:

  • Installation labor – $100–$500 per item depending on complexity. Exhaust systems often run $150–$300.
  • Tools & equipment – Jack stands, torque wrench, specialty sockets. Budget $100–$200 if you lack a basic set.
  • Dyno tuning – $500–$1,000 per session. Essential for forced induction.
  • Maintenance – Modified cars often accelerate wear on tires, brakes, and driveline components. Factor in higher operating costs.
  • Insurance & registration – Some modifications can affect premiums or cause inspection failures.

External resource: FT86SpeedFactory is a reliable vendor for most of the parts listed above, with bundle deals for staged builds.

Making Informed Choices

The Scion FR‑S platform rewards a methodical approach. Jumping straight to a turbo kit without addressing the clutch, cooling, and engine management can lead to reliability headaches. Conversely, spending $1,000 on cosmetic parts yields no performance gain. Use this cost breakdown as a guide to align your budget with driving goals.

Always research forum feedback and dyno charts before buying. A well‑chosen part from a trusted brand often costs more upfront but saves money by working correctly the first time. For additional tuning insights, check Delicious Tuning for ECUTek and Flex Fuel solutions.

Conclusion

Performance modification for the Scion FR‑S can be as affordable or as involved as your wallet and ambition allow. Starting with a $200 cold air intake and a $500 tune provides tangible improvements without overwhelming complexity. As you move into the $1,200+ range with turbo kits, the potential for massive horsepower gains is real – but so are the demands on supporting systems and your budget. By understanding the full cost picture – including parts, labor, tuning, and long‑term reliability – you can build a Scion FR‑S that delivers exactly the driving experience you’re after.