Installing a performance suspension on your Subaru BRZ (or Scion FR-S / Toyota 86) is one of the most effective ways to transform its handling, ride quality, and overall driving experience. Whether you're upgrading to coilovers, lowering springs, or adjustable dampers, the DIY approach not only saves money but also deepens your understanding of the car's chassis dynamics. This guide walks you through the essential tools, detailed procedures, and common pitfalls to ensure a successful and safe installation. By the end, you'll have the confidence to tackle this rewarding project and unlock your BRZ's true cornering potential.

Essential Tools and Materials for BRZ Suspension Work

Having the right tools on hand before you begin prevents frustration and ensures precision. Beyond the basics, a few specialized items will make the job significantly easier.

Core Tool List

  • Jack and jack stands (minimum 2-ton capacity) – Never rely on a hydraulic jack alone. Use four stands for maximum stability.
  • Socket set (metric, 10mm–22mm range) – Common sizes include 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 22mm for strut top nuts.
  • Combination wrench set (metric) – For tight spaces where sockets won't fit.
  • Torque wrench (1/2" drive, 20–150 ft-lb range) – Critical for achieving manufacturer specifications and avoiding component failure.
  • Spring compressor (manual or hydraulic) – Essential if you are swapping springs onto factory struts; never attempt without one.
  • Pry bar or trim removal tools – For separating seized bushings and removing plastic clips.
  • Impact wrench (optional but recommended) – Speeds up removal of stubborn nuts and bolts.
  • Breaker bar (1/2" drive, 24" length) – Loosens rusted fasteners without stripping.
  • Safety glasses, mechanic gloves, and jack pads – Protect yourself and your car's pinch welds.

Fasteners and Consumables

  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Kroil) – Apply to bolts the night before.
  • Thread-locker (Loctite 243 or 242) – For critical fasteners like top hat nuts.
  • Anti-seize compound – Prevents corrosion on threads exposed to moisture.
  • New suspension hardware – Many coilover kits include fresh top hats and bolts; if not, replace any single-use nuts (e.g., self-locking nuts).

Preparation and Safety Setup

Proper preparation is a hallmark of a successful DIY project. Take these preliminary steps to ensure a smooth workflow and avoid unnecessary risks.

Workspace Requirements

Choose a flat, level concrete surface with enough room to move around all four corners. A garage with good lighting is ideal. Check for any oil or fluid spills that could make the floor slippery.

Vehicle Preparation

  • Park the BRZ and engage the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels firmly.
  • Loosen the lug nuts on all four wheels while the car is still on the ground.
  • Jack up one corner at a time, placing jack stands under the designated lift points (consult your owner's manual). Lower the car onto the stands and give a firm shake to confirm stability.
  • Remove the wheels and store them safely out of the way.

Pre-Installation Inspection

Before unbolting anything, inspect the existing suspension components for signs of wear: torn boots, leaking dampers, cracked bushings, or rust. Note any damage that may require additional attention. Also check brake lines, ABS sensor wires, and sway bar end links for routing clearance that might be affected by new suspension.

Step-by-Step BRZ Suspension Installation

The following procedure covers replacement of all four corners with either coilovers or a spring-and-shock setup. The steps are largely the same for front and rear, with minor differences noted.

Front Suspension Removal

  1. Disconnect the sway bar end link – Use a 10mm or 12mm wrench to unbolt the link from the strut body. If the ball joint spins, use an Allen key to hold the stud.
  2. Remove the brake line bracket – Unclip or unbolt the factory bracket from the strut body. Do not stretch the brake hose.
  3. Unbolt the ABS sensor wire – Gently release the clip from the strut.
  4. Loosen the lower strut bolts – On the BRZ, the front strut connects to the steering knuckle via two large pinch bolts (typically 17mm). Break them free with a breaker bar. Do not remove them entirely until the top mount is free.
  5. Access the top mount – Under the hood, remove the plastic cowl cover (three push clips) to expose the three top hat nuts (usually 12mm or 14mm). Clean the area around them with a brush.
  6. Support the knuckle – Place a jack under the lower control arm to keep the knuckle from dropping and stressing the CV axle.
  7. Remove the strut assembly – First, remove the three top mount nuts. Then pull out the two lower pinch bolts. Carefully lower the strut out through the wheel well. You may need to tilt it to clear the brake line bracket.

Front Suspension Installation

  1. Prepare the new assembly – If using coilovers, adjust ride height and preload per manufacturer instructions. For spring-and-shock combos, compress the new spring onto the damper and install the top mount with thread-locker on the center nut (torque to spec, typically 35–45 ft-lb).
  2. Position the new damper – Feed it up through the wheel well and into the top mount hole. With the jack under the knuckle, raise the knuckle to align the lower mounting holes.
  3. Install the top mount – Hand-tighten the three nuts from the top.
  4. Torque the lower bolts – Insert the two pinch bolts and torque to factory specification (around 75–85 ft-lb on most BRZ models). Check your service manual for exact values.
  5. Reconnect sway bar end link – Use fresh hardware if provided. Torque to about 30–40 ft-lb.
  6. Reattach brake line bracket and ABS clip – Ensure they are secure and not twisting the brake hose.
  7. Final torque the top mount nuts – Use a torque wrench with a crows foot or deep socket (typically 25–35 ft-lb). Mark with a paint pen for visual inspection later.

Rear Suspension Removal

The rear strut assembly is simpler but requires care with the rear interior trim.

  1. Access the rear top mounts – Fold down the rear seats. Remove the plastic covers over the top hat nuts (usually 14mm). You may need to pull up the trunk liner.
  2. Remove the lower strut bolt – On the BRZ rear, the shock mounts to the lower control arm with a single large bolt (17mm or 19mm).
  3. Disconnect the sway bar end link – Same as front.
  4. Remove the top nuts – From inside the cabin, hold the shock rod with an Allen key (to prevent spinning) and remove the top nut. Lower the assembly out.

Rear Suspension Installation

  1. Assemble the new rear shock – If using coilovers, set the spring preload. For non-coilover setups, use the spring compressor and torque the top nut to spec (typically 25–35 ft-lb).
  2. Insert the assembly – Guide the lower eyelet into the lower control arm bracket. Insert the bolt and hand-tighten.
  3. Attach the top mount – From inside the cabin, install the top nuts and torque to spec. Do not overtighten; you are compressing a rubber bushing.
  4. Torque the lower bolt – Raise the control arm with a jack to simulate ride height before torquing (typically 55–65 ft-lb). This prevents bushing preload.
  5. Reconnect the sway bar end link – Torque to spec.
  6. Repeat for the other side – Always do both front or both rear together to maintain symmetry.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

1. Ignoring Torque Specifications

One of the most frequent mistakes is tightening fasteners by feel or guessing. Under-torqued bolts can come loose over bumps, while over-torquing strips threads or damages bushings. Always use a calibrated torque wrench and follow the values in a BRZ factory service manual or the suspension kit's instructions. This is especially important for the steering knuckle bolts and top mount nuts.

2. Improper Spring Compressor Use

Spring compressors are dangerous if handled incorrectly. Never use a cheap generic tool that might slip. Ensure the compressor hooks are seated firmly and that the coils are compressed evenly. Work in a protected area and never lean over the compressed spring. Consider renting a professional-grade unit from an auto parts store. For coilovers, the spring is already assembled, eliminating this risk.

3. Failing to Achieve Proper Clearance

After dropping the car, listen for rubbing noises during full lock turns and over dips. Common clearance issues include the spring contacting the tire sidewall, the lower control arm hitting the rim, or the inner fender liner making contact at compression. If using lowering springs, you may need aftermarket camber bolts or adjustable control arms to realign the wheels and prevent tire interference.

4. Overlooking Bushing Preload

Rubber and polyurethane bushings have internal stresses that settle at the car's static ride height. If you torque control arm or sway bar bolts with the suspension hanging (no load), the bushings will be twisted when the car is lowered, leading to premature wear and a harsh ride. Always tighten suspension bolts with the car's weight on the wheels (or with the axle jacked up to ride height).

5. Skipping the Wheel Alignment

After any suspension change, the alignment is guaranteed to shift. Driving with misaligned wheels not only reduces handling and tire life but also risks your safety. Take the BRZ to a reputable alignment shop and request specifications tailored to your new setup. Expect to pay for a full four-wheel alignment. If you've installed coilovers with adjustable camber plates, bring a friend to help set the camber on the alignment rack.

Post-Installation Checks and Break-In

Immediate Checks

  • Re-check all fastener torque after 50–100 miles of driving.
  • Inspect for fluid leaks from dampers.
  • Verify sway bar end links are tight and not contacting the tie rods.
  • Check that brake lines have adequate slack at full droop and full lock.

Break-In Period

New dampers (especially monotube or high-pressure gas units) require a break-in period of about 500–1000 miles. During this time, avoid aggressive driving and excessive loading. The internal seals and shims need to settle into their normal operating range. Ride harshness may soften slightly after break-in.

Conclusion

Installing a performance suspension on a Subaru BRZ is one of the most rewarding DIY modifications for weekend warriors and track enthusiasts alike. With the right tools, meticulous preparation, and attention to torque specs and clearance, you can dramatically improve the car's cornering grip and feedback. Avoid the common pitfalls of skipped alignments and rushed installations, and your BRZ will reward you with sharper, more predictable handling for years to come. For further guidance, consult forums like FT86 Club's suspension section or check out detailed part-specific instructions from FT86 Speed Factory's install guides. Happy wrenching, and enjoy the new ride!