Installing a 2-inch body lift on your Land Cruiser 80 Series is one of the most cost-effective ways to gain tire clearance, improve approach and departure angles, and give your rig a more aggressive stance. With a budget under $300—including the lift kit and a few basic tools—you can complete this project over a weekend and avoid the $800–$1,200 a shop would charge. This guide expands on every step, covering safety, common pitfalls, and pro tips to ensure a clean, lasting install. Whether you’re a seasoned off-roader or a first-time DIYer, these instructions will help you lift your 80 Series with confidence.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Before starting, gather everything in one place. Having the right tools prevents frustrating trips to the hardware store midway through the job.

Body Lift Kit Essentials

  • 2-inch body lift kit for Land Cruiser 80 Series – Look for a kit that includes 12 polyurethane or aluminum lift blocks, 12 hardened bolts (typically Grade 8), 12 washers, and 12 bushings. Avoid cheap plastic blocks; polyurethane lasts longer and compresses less.
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or WD-40 Specialist) – You’ll need it for stubborn body mount bolts.
  • Thread locker (blue Loctite) – Apply to bolts during final torque to prevent loosening.

Tool List

  • Socket set – 1/2-inch drive, metric sockets from 10mm to 19mm (14mm and 17mm are most common for body mount bolts).
  • Wrench set – Combination wrenches in same sizes, plus a crow’s foot for tight spots.
  • Torque wrench – 1/2-inch drive, capable of 50–150 ft-lbs.
  • Jack and jack stands – A 2-ton or larger floor jack and four jack stands rated for the vehicle’s weight (6,000 lbs+).
  • Breaker bar – 18–24 inches long, for breaking loose rusted bolts.
  • Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer – To tap stubborn body mounts loose.
  • Safety glasses and gloves – Always protect your eyes and hands from debris and sharp edges.
  • Impact wrench (optional) – Speeds up removal if you have a compressor or cordless unit.
  • Pry bar or long screwdriver – For separating body from frame if the mounts are stuck.

Safety Precautions

Body lifts raise the vehicle’s body several inches off the frame, which introduces real risks if done incorrectly. Follow these safety rules:

  • Work on level concrete or asphalt – never on gravel or dirt.
  • Chock the wheels that remain on the ground when jacking.
  • Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle’s weight. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • Wear safety glasses during the entire install – debris can fall from under the vehicle.
  • Keep a fire extinguisher nearby, especially if using penetrating oil near any heat sources.
  • Never work under a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack. Use jack stands at all four corners.

Preparation for a Smooth Install

  1. Read the aftermarket kit instructions – Every kit may have slight differences in bolt grades, block placement, or torque specs. Familiarize yourself with the supplied hardware bag.
  2. Clean the underside – Pressure-wash the frame and body mount areas. Mud and grease make it hard to see alignment and cause bolts to bind.
  3. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before – Spray all body mount bolts from above (accessible from inside the vehicle) and below (frame side). Let the oil soak overnight to break rust.
  4. Disconnect critical systems – To avoid damage when the body lifts 2 inches, you may need to disconnect or loosen the following:
    • Steering shaft – Loosen the lower clamp bolt at the steering rack. This allows the steering shaft to slide.
    • Brake lines and fuel lines – Check that there is enough slack. If not, unbolt line brackets from the frame to give extra movement.
    • Radiator fan shroud – Remove the fan shroud bolts so the shroud can rest on the fan without binding.
    • Battery negative terminal – Always disconnect the battery before working near electrical components.
  5. Mark or photograph all connections – Steering, wiring, hoses, and brackets will be easier to reassemble if you have a reference.

Step-by-Step Installation: 2-Inch Body Lift on a Land Cruiser 80 Series

Step 1: Lift and Support the Vehicle

Park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Using a floor jack at the front crossmember, raise the front of the vehicle high enough to place jack stands under the frame rails, just behind the front wheels. Lower the front onto the stands. Repeat for the rear, lifting at the rear differential housing or frame crossmember, and set rear stands just ahead of the rear wheels. The vehicle should be level and stable.

Step 2: Locate and Access All Body Mounts

The 80 Series has 12 body mounts (sometimes 10 on early models). They are located under the body, along the frame rails. Typical positions: two at the front bumper, two near the firewall, two under the front doors, two under the rear doors, two at the rear wheel wells, and two at the rear bumper. Remove any skid plates or brackets that block access. Use a flashlight to inspect each mount.

Step 3: Loosen and Remove the Body Mount Bolts

Starting at one corner (e.g., driver front), use a breaker bar and a 14mm or 17mm socket to break the bolt loose. If it won’t budge, apply more penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes. Use a torch only if you are experienced and have a fire extinguisher. Once loose, remove the bolt, and note the order of washer(s), bushing, and cup. Set the hardware aside in a labeled bag per location.

Some bolts will be longer or shorter – keep them organized. Repeat for all 12 bolts.

Tip: On very rusty bolts, you can cut the bolt flush with a grinder if it snaps – but prevention with penetrating oil is better.

Step 4: Separate the Body from the Frame

With all bolts removed, check that no wires, hoses, or steering components are still attached between body and frame. The body will now only be resting on rubber isolators (and gravity). Use a floor jack under the body tub near a mount point (with a wood block to protect the sheet metal) and gently jack up the body 1–2 inches. Insert the new 2-inch lift block between the frame and body at that mount. Lower the body onto the block.

Repeat this process for each mount location, working your way around the vehicle. Do not lift the body higher than necessary – a few inches at a time is safest.

Step 5: Install the Lift Blocks and Reinstall Bolts

For each mount:

  1. Place the new polyurethane or aluminum lift block on the frame mount per the kit instructions. Some blocks have alignment pins; ensure they face upward or as directed.
  2. Stack the supplied bushings and washers in the correct order (often: washer, bushing, body, block, frame, washer, nut).
  3. Insert the new bolt from above (through the body hole) down through the block and frame.
  4. On the underside, add the supplied washer and nut. Tighten by hand, then use a torque wrench to tighten to the kit’s specification (usually 50–70 ft-lbs for polyurethane blocks). Do not overtighten – polyurethane compresses, but crushing it defeats the purpose.

Work systematically: do not fully torque any bolt until all 12 blocks are in place. Snug them, then go back and torque in a cross pattern.

Step 6: Reconnect and Adjust Systems

With the body now 2 inches higher, several components will need attention:

  • Steering shaft: Ensure the shaft has enough spline engagement. If it’s too short, you may need a steering shaft extension (common on 80 Series). Tighten the lower clamp bolt again.
  • Fan shroud: Adjust the fan shroud position by loosening its mounts; the fan should spin freely without rubbing. You may need to trim the shroud or relocate it downward.
  • Brake and fuel lines: Check that no lines are stretched. If a line is tight, unbolt the bracket from the frame and zip-tie it to a new position with enough slack for suspension articulation.
  • Transfer case shifter: Some 80 Series shifters may bind. Remove the shifter boot and adjust the linkage or notch the floor opening slightly.
  • Bumpers and flares: Lower the bumpers by relocating brackets or using spacers (often included in the kit). Adjust body flares if they touch the tires.

Step 7: Final Torque and Inspection

After all systems are adjusted, go back and re-torque every body mount bolt to the final specification. Check that all blocks are centered and not tilted. Lower the vehicle off jack stands and perform a full visual inspection underneath.

Post-Installation Checks

  • Torque check: Drive 50–100 miles, then re-check all body mount bolts – polyurethane can settle. Re-torque as needed.
  • Steering alignment: The raised body may change steering wheel position slightly. If the wheel is off-center, get a front-end alignment. Also verify that the steering shaft is not binding at full lock.
  • Brake operation: Pump the brakes before moving the vehicle. Check for leaks at any line connections you touched.
  • Cooling system: Run the engine to operating temperature and verify no fan-to-shroud interference. Listen for scraping noises.
  • Visibility: Headlight beam aim may change. Adjust headlights down slightly to avoid blinding oncoming traffic.

Tips and Common Troubleshooting

Stubborn Bolts

If a body mount bolt snaps, take it to a shop to extract it. Attempting to drill out a snapped bolt in a critical location without experience can cause frame damage. Always soak bolts a day in advance.

Alignment Issues: Bumper Gaps and Panel Gaps

With a 2-inch lift, expect gaps between the bumper and body. Use the supplied bumper brackets or make your own from flat steel to bridge the gap. For the rear bumper, you may need to slot the mounting holes to raise it.

Electric Wiring

If the body lifts away from the frame, some wiring looms may be tight. Unclip loom retainers from the frame and secure them to the body with new zip ties. Leave enough slack for future suspension flex.

Radiator Fan Shroud

One of the most common oversights. If the fan hits the shroud, you can trim the shroud’s edges or install a lower-profile fan. For 80 Series, some owners simply remove the bottom half of the shroud.

Conclusion

Installing a 2-inch body lift on your Land Cruiser 80 Series is a rewarding DIY project that improves clearance and stance for under $300. By following these detailed steps, taking your time with each mount, and addressing steering, brake, and cooling systems, you’ll have a reliable setup ready for serious off-road use. Remember that a body lift does not increase suspension travel – it simply raises the body for larger tires. If you have questions, consult the ih8mud 80 Series technical forums for community-proven tips. Check your individual lift kit’s manual for torque specs and hardware sizes, and always keep safety first.

Happy building, and get ready to conquer those trails.