Why Upgrade to a Performance Camshaft?

The 2.4L turbocharged engine in the Dodge Neon SRT‑4 responds exceptionally well to camshaft upgrades. A performance camshaft alters valve timing events—increasing lift, duration, and overlap—which allows the engine to draw in more air and expel exhaust more efficiently. This directly translates to higher peak horsepower and a broader torque curve, especially in the mid‑to‑upper RPM range. Beyond raw numbers, you’ll notice sharper throttle response and a more aggressive exhaust note as the new cam profile changes the engine’s character. For enthusiasts who have already bolted on a larger turbo, intercooler, and fuel system, a camshaft upgrade is often the next logical step to unlock the full potential of the setup.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Proper preparation is critical. Gather the following before starting the job:

  • Performance camshaft (e.g., Crower Stage 2 or Brian Crower BC280)
  • Cam bearing cap bolts (often recommended to replace with new ones)
  • Valve spring compressor tool (if upgrading springs as well)
  • Timing belt kit (including tensioner, idler pulleys, and water pump)
  • Torque wrench (ft‑lb and in‑lb ranges)
  • Camshaft alignment tool (or a straightedge and protractor)
  • Socket set with extensions (metric, 10mm to 18mm)
  • Gasket scraper and RTV silicone (for the valve cover)
  • Clean oil (5W‑30 or 10W‑30 as specified)
  • Sealant for cam position sensor (if resealing the sensor)
  • Shop towels and brake cleaner
  • Service manual or timing diagram (highly recommended)

Step‑by‑Step Installation Guide

The following procedure assumes the engine is out of the car or you have sufficient access from the front. If working in‑chassis, you’ll need to remove the radiator, intercooler, and possibly the passenger side engine mount for clearance.

1. Safety and Preparation

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Drain the engine coolant to prevent a mess when removing the lower radiator hose. Remove the engine cover and any intake ducting that obstructs access to the timing belt cover.

2. Remove the Serpentine Belt and Accessories

Using a breaker bar on the tensioner pulley, release tension and slide off the serpentine belt. Unbolt the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor (if equipped) and move them aside without disconnecting lines. Label any wiring harness connectors as you go.

3. Remove the Timing Belt Cover

Unbolt the upper and lower timing belt covers. Use a marker to note the exact position of the crankshaft sprocket and camshaft sprocket timing marks. Rotate the engine manually by hand (using a socket on the crank pulley bolt) until the #1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke—both cam lobes for #1 intake and exhaust should point upward.

4. Remove the Timing Belt and Tensioner

Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and pivot the tensioner away to relieve belt tension. Slide the timing belt off the cam sprockets and crank sprocket. Do not rotate the crankshaft or camshafts once the belt is off, or the engine may suffer from valve‑to‑piston contact. Remove the tensioner and idler pulleys (replace them with new components).

5. Remove the Stock Camshaft

Unplug the camshaft position sensor connector. Remove the bolts securing the camshaft position sensor (it sits at the front of the exhaust cam). Using a 10mm socket, remove the valve cover bolts in a crosswise pattern and lift off the valve cover. Scrape away any old gasket material and clean the mating surfaces. With the valve cover removed, access the cam bearing caps. Remove them in the reverse of the tightening sequence (typically from the ends toward the center). Lift out the stock camshaft carefully, noting the orientation of the dowel pin for the cam sprocket.

6. Install the New Camshaft

Lightly oil the bearing journals and the cam lobes on the new performance camshaft. Place it into the head with the dowel pin facing the sprocket side (rear of the engine). Reinstall the bearing caps in the correct order: first snug the inner caps, then the outer caps. Torque the bearing cap bolts in stages using the manufacturer’s specification (typically 10‑12 lb‑ft). Do not overtighten—the caps are aluminum and can strip or crack. Replace the camshaft position sensor if it shows signs of oil leakage. Use a new O‑ring or silicone sealant.

7. Reset Valve Lash (If Adjustable)

After installing the cam, check the valve lash with a feeler gauge. Many SRT‑4 performance cams have a fixed lash (via mechanical buckets), but some aftermarket cams require reshimming. Refer to the cam manufacturer’s specs. Incorrect lash can lead to noisy valvetrain or reduced power.

8. Reinstall Timing Belt and Set Tension

Align the crank sprocket mark with the TDC indicator on the oil pump housing. Ensure both cam sprocket marks are aligned with the marks on the back cover (or the cylinder head embossed marks). Slip the new timing belt over the crank sprocket, then over the water pump pulley, then over the exhaust cam sprocket, and finally over the intake cam sprocket. Use the tensioner to apply proper belt tension (check the manufacturer’s spec—usually a deflection of about 1/4 inch at the longest span). Rotate the engine two full revolutions by hand and re‑verify all timing marks align. If not, repeat the procedure.

9. Reassemble and Refill Fluids

Install a new valve cover gasket and RTV sealant at the corners. Torque the valve cover bolts in sequence to 8‑10 lb‑ft. Reattach the spark plug wires and cam sensor connector. Reinstall the timing belt covers and all accessory brackets, alternator, and serpentine belt. Fill the cooling system with fresh coolant. Reconnect the battery.

10. Initial Start and Break‑In

Before starting, pour a few ounces of break‑in oil (or high‑zinc additive) into the camshaft journals. Crank the engine (with coil packs disconnected) for 10‑15 seconds to build oil pressure. Reconnect coils and start the engine. Let it idle for 20 minutes at around 2000 RPM (do not allow the engine to idle at low RPM during this period). Check for leaks and listen for any unusual valvetrain noise. After the break‑in, change the oil and filter.

Expected Power Gains and Supporting Modifications

Installing a performance camshaft in an otherwise stock SRT‑4 can yield 15–30 horsepower and 10–20 lb‑ft of torque, with the higher end achieved when combined with a free‑flowing exhaust, larger injectors, and a proper ECU tune. However, note that a camshaft upgrade shifts the powerband upward; you may lose some low‑end torque if the cam has significant overlap. To fully exploit the cam’s potential, consider these supporting modifications:

  • Upgraded valve springs (to prevent valve float at higher RPM)
  • Larger turbo (e.g., Garrett GT3076R or BorgWarner S256)
  • High‑flow fuel injectors (750–1000 cc)
  • Intercooler upgrade (to keep intake air temperatures in check)
  • Aftermarket engine management (e.g., AEM EMS or Diablosport Predator)

For real‑world results, many SRT‑4 owners pair a Crower Stage 2 cam with a 60‑trim turbo and see 350–400 whp on pump gas. Reaching those numbers requires a comprehensive build, but even a cam‑only swap on a turbo ‑stock car can shave a few tenths off quarter‑mile times.

For additional reading, check out Modern Performance’s SRT‑4 camshaft selection guide and the SRTForums technical archives for dyno charts and real‑world experiences. Also consult the Crower camshaft page for specific lobe profiles and recommended spring specifications.

Critical Considerations

Valve‑to‑Piston Clearance

Aftermarket performance cams have higher lift that may cause the valves to contact the pistons, especially if you advance the cam timing. Always measure clearance using clay on top of the piston and a degree wheel. If clearance is insufficient, you may need to fly‑cut the pistons or install a thicker head gasket.

ECU Tuning Is Non‑Negotiable

The factory ECU expects a specific camshaft profile. A performance cam changes the volumetric efficiency, which alters air‑fuel ratios and ignition timing. Without recalibration, the engine runs lean at high RPM, risking detonation and engine damage. Use a wideband O2 sensor and a flash tuner (e.g., Diablosport Trinity) to dial in the fuel and spark maps.

Timing Belt Replacement Interval

Always replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump as a set. The SRT‑4’s interference engine means a belt failure can destroy the camshaft, valves, and pistons in an instant. Stick to a 60,000‑mile inspection interval with performance components.

Conclusion

Installing a performance camshaft in a Dodge Neon SRT‑4 is a job that requires mechanical skill, patience, and attention to detail. The rewards are genuine: a more responsive engine, a deeper exhaust note, and a measurable increase in horsepower and torque. By following this guide, using the correct tools, and taking the time to verify timing and clearances, you can complete the upgrade confidently. For maximum results, pair the cam with supporting mods and a professional tune. The SRT‑4 platform remains one of the most rewarding FWD sports compacts to modify, and a cam swap is one of the best ways to wake up the 2.4L turbo engine.