Introduction: Why a Borla Exhaust for Your Corvette?

Upgrading to a Borla Corvette exhaust system is one of the most rewarding modifications you can make to your C6, C7, or C8 Corvette. Borla has built a reputation for precision-crafted, high-performance exhausts that deliver a signature aggressive tone, measurable horsepower gains, and weight savings through the use of T-304 stainless steel construction. Whether you choose the refined Touring, the balanced S-Type, or the track-focused ATAK system, the installation process is remarkably similar across the lineup.

This guide provides a detailed, shop-quality walkthrough for installing a Borla exhaust on your Corvette. We’ll cover the tools you need, preparation steps, removal of the factory exhaust, mounting the new system, and final checks to ensure a leak-free, rattle-free fit. While the general steps apply to many V8-powered Corvettes, we’ll also call out important differences for C6 Z06, C7 Z06, C8 Stingray, and other variants.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand before you start saves time and frustration. For most Corvette exhaust swaps, you’ll need:

  • Socket wrench set with metric and SAE sockets (10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm are common)
  • Torque wrench rated up to 150 ft-lbs for tightening header bolts and axle-band clamps
  • Jack and jack stands (or a four-post lift, ideally) – minimum 2-ton capacity
  • Rubber mallet to free stubborn hangers and align tips
  • Exhaust hanger removal tool (or a long flathead screwdriver with tape wrapped on the tip to avoid scratching urethane hangers)
  • Safety glasses and work gloves – exhaust system edges can be sharp and hot
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40 Specialist or PB Blaster) for rusted bolts
  • New Borla exhaust system with all included hardware (gaskets, clamps, bolts, tips)
  • Floor jack cross-beam adapter (optional but recommended for stable rear-end lifting)
  • Masking tape or painter’s tape to protect paint around tailpipe openings

Note: If your Corvette has recently been driven, allow the exhaust to cool completely before starting. Exhaust components can exceed 600°F and will cause serious burns.

Preparation Steps

Park the car on a level concrete or asphalt surface. Engage the parking brake and chock the front wheels. If your Corvette has adjustable ride height (e.g., magnetic ride control), set it to the highest available position in the infotainment menu or service mode. For C8 Stingrays, do not attempt to lift using the side frame rails – use the factory lift points indicated in the owner’s manual.

It’s also wise to take detailed before photos of the stock exhaust hanger positions, clamp orientation, and tip alignment. These reference shots will make reassembly easier, especially if you are reusing factory hangers that have settled into a specific position.

Step 1: Raise the Vehicle Safely

Position the jack under the rear differential housing (for C6 and C7) or the rear subframe crossmember (for C8). Raise the rear of the vehicle high enough to slide jack stands under the factory lift points – typically the frame rail near the rear wheel openings. Ensure the stands are rated for the weight of your Corvette (C6 ~3,200 lbs, C7 ~3,300 lbs, C8 ~3,400 lbs). Lower the jack gently onto the stands, then give the car a firm shake to verify stability.

If you are also removing the front exhaust sections (e.g., mid-pipe on a C6), you may need to lift the entire vehicle. In that case, lift at all four factory points or use drive-on ramps for the front.

Step 2: Remove the Old Exhaust System

2.1 Unbolt the exhaust tips

If your Corvette has bolt-on exhaust finishers or factory muffler tips, remove them with a socket or Torx bit. Some C7 models have decorative tips secured with set screws. These are often rusted – spray penetrating oil and let it soak for five minutes.

2.2 Disconnect the exhaust from the headers or catalytic converters

Locate the flange bolts connecting the exhaust system to the headers or mid-pipes. On C6 and C7 models, these are typically 13mm or 15mm bolts. Use a socket with an extension to reach them. For C8 Stingrays, the exhaust bolts to the downpipes; these are often accessed from underneath after removing the rear undertray (a plastic panel held by push pins and 10mm bolts).

Expect these bolts to be tight – a breaker bar may be needed. Work back and forth rather than applying all your force at once to avoid snapping a bolt inside the head flange. If a bolt resists, reapply penetrating oil and wait.

2.3 Support and drop the old exhaust

Before removing the last bolts, place a transmission jack (or a sturdy plywood sheet on a floor jack) under the exhaust to support its weight. Disconnect the hanger isolators using the hanger removal tool – pry the rubber bushing away from the metal hanger prong while pulling downward. Some isolators are stiff; work them in sections.

Once all hangers are free, carefully lower the old exhaust and slide it out from under the car. For a full cat-back system on a C7, the muffler section may pivot and slide out sideways. Do not let the exhaust tip scratch the rear bumper or quarter panels.

Step 3: Prepare the New Borla Exhaust System

Before lifting the new Borla system into place, mock‑fit the pieces together on the floor. Borla systems are normally delivered in sections: muffler assembly, mid-pipes (if included), and tips. Verify that all hardware is present and correct. Pay attention to the orientation of clamps – Borla often uses band-clamps with a specific “tightening direction” marked on the clamp.

If your Borla system includes a valve actuator for performance modes (e.g., S-Type with NPP compatibility), check that the mounting bracket and wiring harness match your Corvette’s existing connectors. C8s with NPP require a software flash; plan accordingly.

Pro tip: Apply anti-seize

Lightly coat the slip-fit joints and band-clamp threads with high-temp anti-seize compound. This prevents galvanic corrosion between the stainless exhaust and the aluminum components of the car (or steel fasteners) and makes future removals much easier.

Step 4: Install the New Borla Exhaust System

4.1 Position the main muffler / resonator section

Slide the muffler assembly into position from the rear of the car. For C6 and C7 models, you may need to tilt the muffler to clear the sway bar and the rear fascia. Gently guide it around the factory hanger prongs – use the rubber mallet to tap the isolator bushings over the prongs if they don’t slide on easily.

Do not fully tighten any clamp or bolt until the entire system is aligned. This gives you flexibility to adjust tip position and center the exhaust under the car.

4.2 Connect the mid-pipe / X-pipe section

If your Borla system has a separate X-pipe or H-pipe, slide it into the muffler section. Most Borla systems use slip-fit connections with an overlapping band clamp. Leave the clamp loose enough to allow rotation. Use the provided gaskets (donut or flat) at the header-to-midpipe flange – never reuse old gaskets.

Tighten the flange bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specification (typically 35–40 ft-lbs for 3-bolt flanges, 45–50 ft-lbs for 4-bolt flanges on LS/LT engines – check your Borla installation sheet).

4.3 Route the exhaust tips

Slide the tips onto the muffler outlets. Borla tips are held by set screws or band clamps. Many are designed to be adjustable for depth and vertical alignment. Slide them in about halfway initially, then later fine-tune the position.

Step 5: Align and Tighten Everything

Once all sections are connected and hanging loosely, step back and check the overall alignment. The exhaust pipes should be centered in the tunnel (visible under the car). The tips should be equally spaced from the bumper cutouts and sit at the same height.

  • Rear tip alignment: Measure from the tip outlet to the bumper edge on both sides. Adjust by sliding the tip in or out and by rotating the muffler section slightly.
  • Hanger check: Ensure no exhaust pipe contacts the frame, suspension arms, or rear differential. Even a light vibration will amplify into a cockpit drone.
  • Drive shaft clearance: On C6 and C7, verify that the X-pipe has at least 1 inch clearance to the driveline.

When alignment is perfect, torque all clamps and bolts. Borla band clamps typically need 30–35 ft-lbs. Do not over-tighten – you can deform the clamp or crush the pipe. Use the torque wrench.

Step 6: Final Checks Before Lowering

  • Reinstall undertray: For C8s, refit the rear undertray, ensuring all push pins and bolts are hand-tight (10 ft-lbs max).
  • Check electrical connectors: If your Borla system has valves (NPP), plug them in and test the actuation with the engine running (or key-on, engine-off if the system cycles on start).
  • Leak test: Have a helper place a shop towel over the tailpipes while you listen at the flanges. A hissing sound indicates a leak. You can use a stethoscope or a long hose.
  • Re-check ground clearance: The lowest point of the exhaust should be at least 4 inches from the ground.

Step 7: Lower the Vehicle

Remove the jack stands one side at a time, lowering the car evenly. Carefully lower the car to the ground. Once on the ground, bounce the rear of the car a few times to settle the suspension, then re-check tip alignment – it may shift by a few millimeters as the vehicle settles.

Step 8: Test Drive and Break-In

Start the engine. The first cold start may be louder than expected as the system “beds in.” Let it idle for 2–3 minutes, then rev to 2,500 rpm and hold for a few seconds. Turn the engine off and allow it to cool for 15 minutes.

During the first test drive, avoid hard acceleration for the first 100 miles. The exhaust packs may settle, and the joints will fully seat. Listen for rattles – if you hear a metallic tap at the hangers, the exhaust may need a slight rotation. Also check for any drop in fuel economy or a constant “check engine” light (which is rare but can indicate an improperly connected O2 sensor if you disturbed wiring).

Conclusion: Enjoy the Sound and Power

A properly installed Borla exhaust will transform your Corvette driving experience – a deeper, more refined tone when you’re easy on the throttle and an aggressive, unrestricted roar when you open it up. By following this detailed procedure, you’ve ensured that the system is secure, leak-free, and perfectly aligned. Remember to check the bolts and clamps after the first 500 miles and re-tighten as needed (stainless steel can relax over temperature cycles).

For additional support, consult your Borla owner’s manual or visit the official Borla Corvette product pages. Corvette-forum communities like CorvetteForum C6 Tech Performance and C7 Tech Performance are excellent resources for model-specific tips and troubleshooting.

If you’re still deciding on which Borla system fits your driving style, talk to a certified Borla dealer or check sound clips on manufacturer sites. With the installation behind you, you’re ready to enjoy one of the best acoustic and performance upgrades for America’s sports car.