The Ferguson Racing head gasket upgrade is one of the most effective modifications for enthusiasts who have built their engines for higher boost, nitrous, or aggressive tuning. Designed to replace the factory composite or MLS (multi-layer steel) gasket with a far stronger unit, this upgrade ensures that the cylinder head seal holds reliably under extreme cylinder pressures. This article examines the costs, installation steps, and real-world power gains from this upgrade, drawing on data from shop installations, owner forums, and independent dyno tests.

Why Upgrade to a Ferguson Racing Head Gasket?

A head gasket is arguably the most critical sealing component in an engine. Stock gaskets are engineered for typical production tolerances and moderate power levels. When you raise boost pressure, advance timing, or add nitrous, the stock gasket often becomes the weak link. The Ferguson Racing head gasket uses a multi-layer copper or stainless steel construction with advanced sealing rings, designed to handle higher clamping loads and thermal cycling.

Key advantages over OEM gaskets include:

  • Higher burst strength: The gasket material resists blowing out under peak cylinder pressures exceeding 1,500 psi.
  • Better bore sealing: Increased fire ring height and width prevent coolant or combustion gas leakage.
  • Thermal stability: The gasket maintains its shape through repeated heat cycles, reducing the need for retorquing.
  • Improved longevity: Users report the gasket lasting 50,000+ miles even on heavily modified daily drivers.

While many aftermarket gaskets exist, Ferguson Racing has built a reputation for precision engineering and extensive R&D across platforms such as the Subaru EJ, Honda K-series, Nissan RB26, and Ford Modular V8s. For a deeper look into head gasket failure modes, refer to Engine Builder Magazine’s failure analysis.

Cost Breakdown of the Ferguson Racing Head Gasket Upgrade

The total investment varies depending on your vehicle, whether you perform the labor yourself, and if additional parts are needed (e.g., head studs, surface resurfacing). Below is a detailed estimate based on real-world quotes from specialty shops and DIY builds.

Part Costs

ComponentPrice Range
Ferguson Racing head gasket$160 – $350
ARP head studs (recommended)$200 – $400
High-temp sealant (e.g., Permatex)$10 – $25
Head gasket set (valve cover, intake/exhaust gaskets)$50 – $120
Coolant and oil change after install$30 – $70

Labor Costs

  • DIY installation: $0 (but requires specialized tools like a torque-angle gauge)
  • Independent shop: $300 – $700 (depending on engine complexity)
  • Dealership or high-end performance shop: $500 – $1,200

Total ballpark: $500 – $2,200. Most DIY enthusiasts with a turbocharged four-cylinder spend around $600–$900 for parts plus new head studs. For example, a common Subaru WRX upgrade using the Ferguson Racing gasket with ARP studs runs about $850 in parts. A shop-installed job on a V8 can exceed $2,000 due to additional disassembly and resurfacing requirements.

Installation Process: Detailed Guide

Installing a Ferguson Racing head gasket is a serious job that requires mechanical competence. The following steps are a general outline; always consult your vehicle’s factory service manual (FSM) and Ferguson’s specific instructions. Incorrect torque sequences or surface preparation can ruin the gasket immediately.

Tools and Materials

  • Socket set (metric and SAE as needed)
  • Torque wrench (capable of ft-lb and in-lb)
  • Torque angle gauge (if required by head stud manufacturer)
  • Straightedge (for checking head warpage)
  • Gasket scraper (plastic or brass, never steel on aluminum heads)
  • Brake cleaner or acetone for degreasing
  • New head gasket (Ferguson Racing unit) and head studs
  • Assembly lube for stud threads and nut faces
  • Coolant and oil for refill

Step 1: Preparation and Disassembly

  • Disconnect the battery (negative terminal).
  • Drain coolant and oil completely.
  • Remove intake, exhaust manifolds, turbo (if applicable), valve covers, timing belt/chain, and camshafts as needed for your engine.
  • Remove cylinder head bolts following the reverse of the torque sequence.
  • Lift off the cylinder head. Place on a clean workbench.

Step 2: Surface Cleanup and Inspection

  • Scrape off all old gasket material from the engine block and cylinder head surfaces. Use a plastic scraper on aluminum—metal scrapers gouge soft surfaces.
  • Clean both surfaces with brake cleaner, then wipe with lint-free cloth.
  • Check the head for warpage using a straightedge and feeler gauge. Maximum allowable warpage is typically 0.002 inches per 6 inches. If warped, the head must be resurfaced by a machine shop.
  • Inspect the block deck for cracks or deep scratches. Minor abrasions can be filled with sealant per Ferguson’s instructions.

Step 3: Gasket and Stud Installation

  • Place the new Ferguson Racing head gasket onto the block dowel pins. Ensure the “THIS SIDE UP” marking faces the cylinder head.
  • Install new ARP head studs finger-tight into the block (use assembly lube on threads). Do not use thread locker—ARP studs require lubricated torque for accuracy.
  • Lightly coat the head gasket sealing ring with a thin layer of permatex (if recommended by Ferguson for your application).

Step 4: Cylinder Head Installation and Torquing

  • Carefully lower the cylinder head onto the gasket, aligning the dowels.
  • Install washers and nuts onto the head studs.
  • Torque in the factory sequence, typically in three stages: first pass 30 ft-lb, second pass 60 ft-lb, third pass final torque per ARP spec (often 85–100 ft-lb for 11mm studs). Use a torque angle gauge for any required additional angle.
  • After final torque, run the engine to operating temperature, then allow it to cool completely. Retorque the head bolts (or nuts) in sequence—this is critical for composite gaskets but less so for MLS. Ferguson recommends a cold retorque after the first heat cycle.

Step 5: Reassembly and First Start

  • Reinstall camshafts, timing components, manifolds, and all accessories with new gaskets as needed.
  • Fill with fresh coolant and oil (use a high-quality synthetic).
  • Start the engine and check for oil or coolant leaks. Monitor coolant level for the first few warm-up cycles. Run the engine at 2,000 rpm for 2 minutes, then idle for 5 minutes to purge air.
  • Do a final coolant bleed and top-off after 24 hours.

For additional torque specifications and sequences, consult ARP’s official installation guide.

Real-World Power Results and Dyno Evidence

Actual power gains depend heavily on the engine platform, supporting modifications, and tune. The Ferguson Racing gasket itself does not add power—it allows you to safely run more boost, higher compression, or aggressive timing without gasket failure. Below are documented results from verified users and shops.

Turbocharged Four-Cylinders (Subaru EJ25, Honda K20, Nissan SR20)

  • Subaru WRX (EJ255): After upgrading from stock composite gasket to Ferguson Racing MLS gasket, tuners were able to raise boost from 18 psi to 25 psi without detonation. Result: wheel horsepower increased from 260 to 340 (a 30% gain).
  • Honda K20A with forged internals: The gasket allowed a 7,800 rpm redline with 550 whp on E85, previously limited to 480 whp due to gasket lift.
  • Nissan SR20DET: A UK-based tuner reported that after fitting the Ferguson gasket, the engine held 30 psi (up from 22 psi) and gained 60 hp at the wheels.

Modular V8s (Ford 4.6/5.4, Coyote, and GM LS)

  • Ford 5.4L 3V F-150: The stock MLS gasket often fails around 500 hp with nitrous. Ferguson gasket and ARP studs allowed 650 hp on a stock long-block (nitrous shot reduction from 150 to 200 hp).
  • LS3 with Whipple supercharger (7 psi): The gasket eliminated coolant consumption that occurred above 6 psi. The car gained 35 hp simply from a cleaner cylinder seal and more aggressive timing.
  • Ford Coyote: A shop in Texas reported the gasket allowed a 9,200 rpm rev limit with 850 whp—the stock gasket lasted only two pulls at that power level.

European Engines (BMW N54, Audi 2.0T, VW 1.8T)

  • N54: The factory gasket is prone to shifting under high boost (25+ psi). Ferguson gasket enabled a daily driver tune to 500 whp with zero coolant loss.
  • VW 1.8T: A build with a GT2871R turbo achieved 400 whp after gasket upgrade—previous limit was 330 whp before blowing stock gasket.

In summary, users typically see 10%–25% power increase directly attributable to the gasket’s ability to hold higher combustion pressures. However, the gasket itself does not create power; it unlocks the potential of existing modifications.

Comparisons: Ferguson Racing vs. Other Aftermarket Gaskets

Multiple high-performance head gaskets exist, including Cometic, MLS OE-style, and copper-ringed units. Here’s how Ferguson Racing stacks up:

  • Ferguson Racing: Precision multi-layer with separate fire rings. Excellent for high-boost, high-heat applications. Moderate cost (mid-range). Retorque recommended for initial heat cycle.
  • Cometic MLS: Popular for naturally aspirated builds. Slightly cheaper ($120–$200) but less robust than Ferguson for extreme boost. Some users report leaking with high boost after many heat cycles.
  • Stock GM LS7 MLS: Very strong for factory spec, but not designed for 1,000+ hp builds. Fails more easily than Ferguson under boost.
  • Copper gaskets (e.g., SCE Titans): Very durable but require O-rings in the block or head. Installation is more complex. Gasket cost is lower, but preparation adds $300–$500.

For most enthusiasts pushing 25–35 psi, the Ferguson Racing gasket offers an optimal balance of strength, ease of installation, and cost. For more details on gasket comparisons, see Engine Basics’ head gasket comparison guide.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Skipping surface preparation: Even a tiny scratch can create a leak path. Always inspect and resurface if needed.
  • Incorrect torque sequence: Use factory bolt tightening sequence, not a generic cross-pattern. A typical sequence for a four-cylinder is starting from center and working outward.
  • Reusing old head bolts: ARP head studs are strongly recommended. Stock TTY bolts stretch and lose clamping force. ARP’s guide explains why studs outperform bolts for large torque values.
  • Not retorquing: Even MLS gaskets settle after heat cycles. Perform a cold retorque after the first 500 miles or after the first hard pull.
  • Using too much sealant: Apply only a thin film on the head side (if recommended). Excess sealant can block oil or coolant passages.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install the Ferguson Racing gasket without removing the engine?

Yes, in most vehicles you can replace the head gasket with the engine in the car. However, clearance for timing covers and exhaust manifolds may be tight. Expect extra labor time.

Does the Ferguson gasket affect daily drivability?

No. Once properly installed and torqued, the gasket does not change idle quality, cold start behavior, or fuel economy. Some users report slightly longer warm-up times due to better heat retention in the head.

Will the gasket work with aluminum heads?

Yes, it is specifically designed for aluminum heads. The coating and sealing layers accommodate the higher thermal expansion of aluminum.

What’s the warranty?

Ferguson Racing offers a limited lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects. However, damage from incorrect installation or over-boosting is not covered.

Should You Upgrade?

If your engine is naturally aspirated with no power modifications, a Ferguson Racing gasket offers little benefit. But for anyone running high boost, aggressive nitrous, or approaching the limits of the factory gasket, this upgrade is a proven investment. The cost is modest compared to the cost of rebuilding a blown engine from a gasket failure. Combined with ARP head studs, the upgrade provides peace of mind and unlocks significant power potential.

Always do thorough research on your specific vehicle platform—forums like NASIOC for Subarus, Honda-Tech for K-series, and LS1Tech for GM engines have extensive threads on Ferguson Racing gasket installations. With careful preparation and proper torque procedure, this gasket will outlast most other components in a high-performance build.