Upgrading the intercooler on your 2020+ Nissan GT-R R35 is one of the most effective modifications for unlocking reliable power and lowering intake air temperatures. The stock intercooler is adequate for factory boost levels, but once you increase power with tuning, downpipes, or upgraded turbos, it quickly becomes a bottleneck. Hot intake air leads to timing pulls and lost power. A high-flow, efficient aftermarket intercooler reduces pressure drop and lowers charge air temperatures, giving you consistent performance even during hard driving. This guide walks you through the entire installation process with the detail needed for a successful DIY upgrade.

Why Upgrade the Intercooler on a 2020+ R35?

The 2020+ Nissan GT-R features revised front bumper styling and active grille shutters, but the intercooler core remains a single-core design that struggles with high ambient temperatures and sustained boost. Here are the primary benefits of upgrading:

  • Lower intake air temperatures – Denser air contains more oxygen for combustion, reducing the risk of knock and allowing more aggressive tuning.
  • Reduced pressure drop – High-flow cores and larger end tanks minimize resistance, letting the turbos spool faster and maintain boost pressure.
  • Consistent performance – Aftermarket intercoolers shed heat quicker, so you maintain power on back-to-back pulls or track sessions.
  • Higher power ceiling – Many upgraded intercoolers support 800+ wheel horsepower without heat soak issues.
  • Reliability – Lower charge temperatures reduce thermal stress on engine components.

For a comprehensive overview of how intercooler upgrades affect the R35, check out this guide from Driven Performance.

Choosing the Right Intercooler for Your 2020+ R35

Not all intercoolers are created equal. The 2020+ models have a slightly different front-end structure, so ensure you purchase a kit specifically designed for the R35 (2008–2024). Key considerations:

  • Core design: Bar-and-plate cores are more durable and efficient at heat transfer than tube-and-fin. They are heavier but preferred for high-power builds.
  • Core size: Larger cores offer more surface area but may require trimming of the crash bar or active grille shutters. Most direct-fit kits for the R35 are no larger than 3” thick to avoid clearance issues.
  • End tank material: Cast aluminum end tanks are stronger and flow better than welded sheet metal. Look for smooth transitions to reduce turbulence.
  • Included hardware: Quality kits include silicone couplers, high-strength T-bolt clamps, and all necessary brackets. Avoid kits that reuse stock rubber hoses.
  • Sensor provisions: The factory IAT sensor is mounted in the stock intercooler end tank. Some aftermarket intercoolers have a pre-drilled bung; others require you to drill and tap or use a separate sensor adapter.

Popular options for the 2020+ R35 include the AMS Performance Competition R35 Intercooler and the Boost Logic R35 Intercooler. Both are proven for high-horsepower applications.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Set aside a full day for this install, especially if it’s your first time. Gather the following tools and supplies before starting:

  • Socket set (metric, 10mm to 14mm, plus 17mm for bumper bolts)
  • Ratchet, extensions, and universal joint
  • Torx drivers (T25 and T30 for various clips)
  • Flathead screwdriver and trim removal tools
  • Torque wrench (for critical fasteners)
  • Jack and jack stands or a lift
  • New intercooler kit (core, couplers, clamps, brackets)
  • Replacement coolant – only if your kit is water-to-air or requires draining. For air-to-air upgrades, no coolant work is needed.
  • Anti-seize compound (optional, for threads)
  • Shop rags and cleaning solution
  • Boost leak tester (recommended for final testing)

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

1. Preparation and Safety

Park the vehicle on a flat surface and allow the engine to cool completely. Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench to prevent electrical shorts. If your car has recently been driven, wait at least two hours – the turbos and intercooler piping get extremely hot. Raise the front of the car with a jack and secure it on jack stands. Remove the under-tray (several 10mm bolts and plastic clips) to access the lower bumper area.

2. Remove the Front Bumper

Accessing the intercooler on a 2020+ R35 requires removing the entire front bumper cover. This is necessary to reach the mounting brackets and charge pipe connections.

  • Remove the grille trim pieces – there are small clips on top that pop out.
  • Locate and remove the bolts along the top edge of the bumper (under the hood) and inside the wheel wells (a couple of 10mm bolts and plastic push pins).
  • Disconnect the wiring for the active grille shutters (if equipped) and the front parking sensors. Note their positions for reinstallation.
  • Carefully pull the bumper forward – it may be stuck on the foam absorber. Have a helper support it as you unclip the sides from the fender liners.
  • Set the bumper aside on a soft surface to avoid scratching.

Once the bumper is off, you will see the active grille shutters mounted on a frame. These shutters close at high speeds to reduce drag. You may need to remove this assembly to access the intercooler – consult your kit instructions. Some aftermarket intercoolers require you to delete the shutters; others allow them to remain in front.

3. Remove the Active Grille Shutter Assembly and Crash Bar

If your intercooler kit is a direct replacement (same overall dimensions as stock), you can leave the shutter frame in place. For larger cores, you will need to unbolt the shutter assembly (four 10mm bolts) and unplug it. Set it aside carefully. Next, the factory crash bar sits in front of the intercooler. On 2020+ models, the crash bar is aluminum and is held by two large bolts on each side (17mm or 19mm). Support the crash bar as you remove these bolts – it is heavy. Many aftermarket intercooler kits include a replacement crash bar that provides additional clearance and directs airflow to the core.

4. Remove the Factory Intercooler

With the crash bar and shutters out of the way, you can see the stock intercooler. It is sandwiched between the radiator support and the charge pipes.

  • Loosen the T-bolt clamps on both charge pipes where they connect to the intercooler end tanks. There are two pipes: one from the passenger-side turbo (outlet) and one to the throttle body (inlet).
  • Disconnect the charge pipes from the intercooler. They may be stuck; gently pry with a plastic trim tool.
  • Remove the bolts securing the intercooler to the radiator support (typically four 10mm bolts on the sides and two on the bottom).
  • Lift the intercooler out from the top – tilt it slightly to clear the radiator fan shroud.
  • Transfer the IAT sensor from the stock intercooler to the new one, or install a plug if using an aftermarket sensor location. The sensor is usually press-fit or held by a small clip. Be gentle to avoid breaking it.

5. Prepare and Install the New Intercooler

Before installing the new intercooler, inspect the charge pipes for debris. It is a good time to replace the OEM rubber couplers with the silicone ones from your kit.

  • Fit the new intercooler into place – lower it from the top and position it so the mounting tabs line up with the radiator support holes.
  • Secure the intercooler using the supplied bolts or the factory bolts. Torque to 8–10 ft-lbs (do not overtighten into aluminum threads).
  • Attach the charge pipes to the new intercooler end tanks. Use the provided silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. Apply a small amount of silicone lubricant to help the couplers slide on. Ensure the pipes go fully into the couplers before tightening.
  • Tighten the clamps evenly. A good target is 3–5 Nm (25–40 in-lbs) – enough to seal without deforming the pipe.
  • If your kit came with a replacement crash bar, now is the time to bolt it into place. Torque the main bolts to 45–55 ft-lbs.
  • Reinstall the active grille shutter assembly if it will fit and you are retaining it. If you deleted it, your ECU may need a resistor or code clearing to avoid a dashboard warning. Some tuners can disable the shutters via software.

6. Reassemble the Front Bumper and Under-Tray

Double-check all connections. Ensure no tools or rags are left in the engine bay. Reattach the foam absorber if removed. Carefully align the bumper cover with the fender and hood lines. Install the upper bolts, wheel well screws, and push pins. Reconnect the parking sensor and shutter wiring. Lower the vehicle onto the ground and torque the lug nuts (if you had the car on stands).

7. Reconnect the Battery and Perform Initial Startup

Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Before starting the engine, pressurize the intake system with a boost leak tester to verify all couplers are sealed. This step is critical – a small leak will cause poor idle, rough running, and power loss. Attach the tester to the turbo inlet or throttle body inlet and pump to 15–20 psi. Listen for hissing and apply soapy water to connections to spot bubbles. Tighten clamps as needed.

Once satisfied, start the engine. Let it idle for a minute and check for any unusual noises (whistling, air leaks) or check engine lights. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature and monitor intake air temperatures with a scan tool. They should drop noticeably compared to the stock intercooler.

8. Test Drive and Final Checks

Take a short test drive, starting with moderate acceleration. Listen for any rattling or interference between the intercooler and the bumper. After the drive, recheck all clamps and bolts – they sometimes loosen as parts settle. If you notice a drop in boost or stumbling, inspect for leaks again. A proper intercooler install should yield a solid, responsive feel with lower IATs under load.

Tuning Considerations After Intercooler Upgrade

Installing a larger intercooler alters the volume of the intake system and reduces pressure drop. Your engine may run leaner or richer without a tune. It is highly recommended to have your vehicle re-tuned (or at least data-logged) by a professional after the upgrade. Many owners see gains of 20–40 wheel horsepower just from reduced heat soak and more consistent timing. If you have other mods like downpipes or a cat-back exhaust, the intercooler will help maximize their benefit. Consult with your tuner to dial in fuel and ignition timing for the denser air charge. For more information on R35 tuning strategies, visit the ECUTek R35 support page.

Maintenance Tips for Your Upgraded Intercooler

  • Inspect the intercooler core periodically for debris (bugs, leaves, dirt). Use compressed air or low-pressure water (from the back side) to clean it without bending fins.
  • Check couplers and clamps for tightness every oil change – heat cycles can cause hose clamps to relax.
  • If you drive in winter, be aware that a massive intercooler can delay warm-up. A grille cover can help, but do not block airflow entirely.
  • After track days or long pulls, let the car idle for a minute to circulate air and even out heat before shutting down.

Final Thoughts

Upgrading the intercooler on your 2020+ Nissan GT-R R35 is a rewarding project that pays off every time you push the throttle. The stock unit is a known weak point for serious power, and even a mild tune benefits from the improved thermal efficiency. By following this guide carefully, using quality components, and verifying the install with a boost leak test, you can reliably drop intake temperatures and enjoy more consistent, safer performance. Pair it with a proper tune and supporting modifications, and your R35 will be ready for whatever you throw at it.