When building a high-performance vehicle, the choice between a Procharger centrifugal supercharger and a Whipple twin-screw supercharger doesn’t just affect power delivery—it fundamentally changes how the car behaves in corners, under braking, and during acceleration. The weight distribution, torque curve, and even the engine bay layout differ between these systems, meaning a one-size-fits-all suspension setup won’t cut it. To extract maximum lap times or street manners, you need to tailor your struts, sway bars, and tires to the specific supercharger you’re running. This guide dives deep into the handling modifications required for Procharger vs. Whipple builds, covering everything from damper selection to tire compounds.

Understanding the Differences: Procharger vs. Whipple

Before swapping parts, it’s critical to understand how each supercharger type alters the vehicle’s dynamics. A Procharger (centrifugal) uses a belt-driven impeller that builds boost progressively with engine RPM. Power comes on strong at higher revs, which can make the car feel naturally aspirated until the top end. This power curve places less stress on the suspension during low-speed corner exits but demands excellent high-speed stability and grip. A Whipple (twin-screw) supercharger, in contrast, delivers near-instantaneous boost from idle, producing massive low-end and mid-range torque. That sudden surge can overwhelm the rear tires and upset chassis balance, especially in tight turns. Additionally, Whipple units are typically heavier and sit higher on the engine, raising the center of gravity and shifting weight distribution slightly forward. Prochargers, mounted lower and often in the front of the engine bay, can add weight to the nose but keep it lower. These differences directly influence your strut, sway bar, and tire decisions.

Strut Upgrades: Managing Weight Transfer and Damping

Struts are the backbone of any suspension upgrade. For supercharged cars, the goal is to control body roll, manage weight transfer under acceleration and braking, and keep the tires planted. Both Procharger and Whipple builds benefit from adjustable dampers, but the valving and spring rates you choose should reflect the torque characteristics of your system.

Procharger-Specific Strut Considerations

Because Procharger power builds smoothly and peaks at high RPM, the car remains relatively settled during low-speed corner entry. However, as the revs climb, the sudden rush of power can induce oversteer if the rear suspension isn’t prepared. For Procharger builds, focus on high-speed damping to handle the top-end horsepower burst. A strut with firm compression damping at high shaft speeds (like a Penske 8300) will prevent the rear from squirming on corner exit. Consider a coilover conversion to lower the center of gravity and dial in spring rates around 300–400 lb/in front and 200–300 lb/in rear for most street/strip applications. Adjustable rebound damping is a must to fine-tune how quickly the chassis settles after a bump—crucial when you’re hunting for grip at 7,000 RPM.

Whipple-Specific Strut Considerations

Whipple’s instant torque places extreme demands on the rear suspension. The sudden twist can cause the rear axle to rotate aggressively, inducing snap oversteer or wheel hop. For Whipple cars, prioritize low-speed compression damping to control the initial hit of torque. A strut like the Viking Berserker offers dual-adjustability specifically for high-torque applications. Spring rates should be stiffer in the rear—try 350–450 lb/in rear and 250–350 lb/in front—to counteract squat and maintain tire contact. Additionally, a drag-specific coilover with a separate reservoir can help manage heat buildup during repeated hard launches. Do not overlook front strut stiffness either: the heavy Whipple unit over the front wheels can cause excessive dive under braking, so a strut with adjustable high-speed compression will keep the nose up and braking stable.

Strut Mounts and Bushings

Upgrading to solid or polyurethane strut mounts reduces deflection and sharpens steering response. For both supercharger types, a camber-adjustable camber plate is recommended to maximize contact patch during cornering. A Whipple car, with its heavier front end, may need more negative camber (around –2.5 to –3.0 degrees) to compensate for body roll. Procharger builds can often run slightly less (–1.5 to –2.0 degrees) due to lighter front weight but still benefit from adjustability. Always pair strut mounts with fresh bump stops to bottoming out under high-speed cornering.

Sway Bar Upgrades: Taming Body Roll and Balance

Sway bars (anti-roll bars) control the chassis’s tendency to lean in corners. With extra power, cornering forces increase, and the stock sway bars may not be up to the task. The right sway bar set can fine-tune understeer/oversteer balance—critical when a Procharger and Whipple have such different torque curves.

Procharger Builds: Taming Oversteer at High RPM

Because a Procharger’s power arrives late, the car may feel understeer-prone in mid-corner as the front tires scrub, then suddenly oversteer when the boost hits. A thicker front sway bar (e.g., 35mm solid) combined with a softer rear bar (25–28mm) helps reduce initial understeer while allowing the rear to rotate controllably when power comes on. Adjustable end links let you fine-tune the bar’s effect. For track use, consider a hollow front bar for lighter unsprung weight, while retaining a solid rear bar for torsional stiffness. Brands like Hotchkis offer kits specifically rated for high-horsepower applications.

Whipple Builds: Controlling Instant Rotation

Whipple’s low-end torque can make the car feel like it wants to spin out on corner exit. To counteract that, use a thicker rear sway bar (30–32mm) and leave the front relatively soft (30mm hollow). The stiffer rear bar increases oversteer tendency initially, but when combined with proper damping, it actually helps the chassis settle quickly under power, reducing snap oversteer. Adjustable sway bars with multiple mounting holes allow you to dial in the exact balance—stiffer for autocross, softer for drag. Do not go too stiff in the front, or the Whipple’s heavy nose will push wide (understeer) on corner entry.

Replace rubber end links with spherical-bearing links for zero deflection. For both blower types, polyurethane or Delrin bushings in the sway bar mounts eliminate slop and keep the bar working instantly. On a Whipple car, the increased torque can stress mounts; consider reinforced brackets to prevent the bar from pulling through its mounting points.

Tire Selection: The Only Contact Patch

Tires are the single most impactful handling upgrade. With 600–1,000+ horsepower on tap, even the best struts and sway bars won’t help if the rubber doesn’t grip. The choice between Procharger and Whipple affects tire compound, width, and temperature management.

Procharger Tire Strategy

Because Procharger power builds progressively, you can run ultra-high performance summer tires with a 200-treadwear or even a semi-slick like a Michelin Pilot Sport 4S that offers excellent lateral grip and decent heat management. The rear tires need to handle the top-end rush, so consider a wider rear tire (305mm or 315mm on 11-inch wheels) to spread the load. For drag-and-track duty, a drag radial like the Mickey Thompson ET Street R (Mickey Thompson) with a soft compound provides the needed bite for high-RPM launches. Tire pressure is critical: start at 28 psi cold front, 30 psi cold rear, and adjust based on contact patch wear patterns. Because Procharger cars build heat gradually, you may need to do a warm-up lap to get the rears to operating temperature.

Whipple Tire Strategy

Instant torque demands tires that can handle extreme spin resistance without chunking. A 200-treadwear or 100-treadwear R-compound tire (like the Toyo R888R or Nitto NT05) is a better choice because they don’t get greasy under sudden slip. Rear width should be at least 305mm, but many Whipple builds run 345mm or wider to get that contact patch. Consider a staggered setup with narrower front tires (275mm) to reduce rolling resistance and improve turn-in, while the rears do all the work. Tire pressure should be lower in the rear to increase the footprint: try 26 psi cold rear, 30 psi cold front. Whipple cars also generate more heat in the rear tires quickly, so check pressures after a few hard pulls—overheating can cause excessive wear and reduced grip. For street/road course use, a Hybrid radial like the Continental ExtremeContact Sport can handle the torque without being too aggressive for daily driving.

Alignment and Tire Pressure Fine-Tuning

Proper alignment is vital for both supercharger types. For Procharger: set front camber to –1.8°, rear to –1.2°, with 0.10° total toe-in front and 0.15° total toe-in rear. For Whipple: increase rear camber to –1.5° and reduce front caster to 6.0° to help the heavy front end turn in. Always zero the steering wheel and check thrust angle. Tire pressure should be monitored with a pyrometer after a session to ensure even wear—adjust camber or pressure as needed.

Other Handling Mods to Complement the Big Three

Struts, sway bars, and tires form the foundation, but additional modifications can unlock the final 10% of handling potential for your Procharger or Whipple build.

Control Arms and Bushings

Replace front lower control arms with adjustable units (e.g., BMR or Steeda) to allow fine-tuning of caster and anti-dive characteristics. This is especially important for Whipple cars that experience heavy nose dive under braking. For the rear, a tension arm and toe link set prevents rear axle movement under power, reducing wheel hop. Polyurethane or spherical bushings throughout the suspension eliminate compliance, but be aware of increased NVH. For a street car, a hybrid bushing (Delrin vs. rubber) offers a good compromise.

Chassis Bracing

With high horsepower, the chassis flexes more than stock. A strut tower brace (front and rear) and a subframe connector dramatically stiffen the unibody. For Whipple cars, a K-member brace reduces flex from the heavy blower. Procharger cars benefit from a radiator support brace to counteract the centrifugal unit’s forward weight. Bolt-in harness bars and a 4-point roll bar can also tie the chassis together for serious track use.

Brake Upgrades

Going faster means stopping harder. Both supercharger types put more heat into brakes due to higher entry speeds. Upgrade to two-piece rotors, a larger caliper (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), and high-temp brake fluid (e.g., Motul RBF 600). For Whipple builds, the additional nose weight can cause front brake fade; consider a ducting kit to channel air to the rotors. Procharger cars, with less front-end weight, may need only a pad upgrade to a compound like Hawk DTC-70 for track days.

Conclusion: Tuning the Complete Package

Building a Procharger or Whipple car is not just about bolting on boost—it’s about integrating the entire suspension to cope with the new power curves. Start with a solid strut upgrade that matches your blower’s torque delivery; add sway bars that correct the inherent balance issues; and finish with tires that can handle the output without spinning away precious grip. Then, complement those core mods with control arms, bushings, and chassis bracing to wring out every last bit of performance. Finally, get the car on a proper alignment rack and a shock dyno to dial in damping and alignment settings for your specific use case—whether that’s road racing, autocross, drag racing, or spirited street driving. Test, adjust, and test again. The difference between a fast supercharged car and a truly well-handling one is in the details. Choose your modifications wisely based on whether you run a Procharger or Whipple—and enjoy the thrill of a balanced, high-horsepower machine that corners as well as it accelerates.