Table of Contents
Introduction
The Kia Stinger has rapidly earned a reputation as a genuine performance sedan, punching well above its weight class with a twin-scroll turbocharged V6 or turbocharged four-cylinder engine. Enthusiasts have flocked to this platform, seeking to extract every bit of power and reliability from the 3.3-liter Lambda II or 2.0-liter Theta II powerplants. One modification that consistently appears in discussion threads and build logs is the PRL Motorsports catch can. But unlike a cat-back exhaust or ECU tune, the catch can’s primary role is not raw horsepower — it’s preservation. Still, many owners report noticeable gains in throttle response and a cleaner-running engine that holds onto power longer. This article explains exactly how much horsepower the PRL catch can can add, details the installation process, and compiles real-world reviews from Stinger owners.
What Is a Catch Can and Why Does the Kia Stinger Need One?
All modern internal combustion engines generate blow-by gases — a mixture of unburned fuel, combustion byproducts, and oil vapor that escapes past the piston rings during compression and combustion. In older engines, this blow-by was simply vented to the atmosphere via a road draft tube. Today, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system routes these gases back into the intake manifold to be reburned, meeting emissions standards.
The Direct Injection Problem
The Kia Stinger — particularly the 3.3T GDI engine — uses gasoline direct injection (GDI). Unlike port injection, which sprays fuel onto the intake valves, GDI injects fuel directly into the combustion chamber. This means fuel never contacts the intake valves, so they have no built-in detergent effect to clean off oil vapor deposits. Over time, oil vapor from the PCV system condenses on the valves and bakes into hard carbon deposits. This reduces airflow, disrupts air/fuel mixing, and leads to power loss, rough idle, and eventually misfires.
A catch can intercepts the oil-laden vapors before they reach the intake manifold. The can uses baffles or a filter medium to separate liquid oil from the air, collecting it in a reservoir that can be drained periodically. The result is a much cleaner intake system, reduced carbon buildup, and more consistent combustion.
The PRL Catch Can Solution
PRL Motorsports designed their catch can specifically for the Kia Stinger’s engine bay. It is a dual-can setup that covers both the PCV and clean-side separator (or, on some versions, a single larger can with dual ports). The kit includes billet aluminum cans, braided stainless steel hoses, AN fittings, and a custom mounting bracket that bolts into existing chassis holes. The dual-valve system ensures that under both boost and vacuum conditions, oil vapor is captured effectively. PRL’s solution is widely regarded as one of the most complete and aesthetically refined kits available.
How Much Horsepower Can You Expect?
The question every Stinger owner wants answered: exactly how much HP does the PRL catch can add? The honest, data-backed answer is that a catch can alone does not produce a fixed horsepower number on the dyno. However, it prevents horsepower loss over time. Many owners on the StingerGT.org forums and Kia Stinger Facebook groups have reported immediate gains of 5 to 15 horsepower after installation, but these numbers are often conflated with other variables.
Understanding the Gains: Maintenance vs. Increase
When you install a catch can on a high-mileage Stinger (20,000+ miles) that has already accumulated some carbon on the valves, the engine may regain 5–10 HP simply from the reduction of oil vapor ingestion. The intake valves begin to clean themselves more effectively, and the engine runs smoother. On a low-mileage or freshly cleaned engine, the gain is smaller — perhaps 2–5 HP — because the valves are already fairly clean. The real value is in preserving that peak power over 50,000, 75,000, or 100,000 miles.
One dyno test conducted by a Stinger owner with a 2018 GT (3.3T) showed a 6.7 horsepower gain at the wheels with a PRL catch can as the only change. The test was performed on a Mustang dyno before and after installation, with ambient conditions controlled. The owner noted that the car felt “livelier” above 4,500 RPM, and the intake manifold pressure stabilized faster during gear changes.
Factors That Influence HP Gains
- Engine condition and mileage – Higher mileage engines have more blow-by and more existing deposits, so the can has more to clean up.
- Driving style and environment – Short trips, frequent cold starts, and heavy stop-and-go driving produce more oil vapor.
- Other modifications – An aftermarket intake, downpipes, or ECU tune amplify the benefits of a catch can because the engine is flowing more air and producing more blow-by.
- Installation quality – A leak or improper routing can negate gains. Ensure all connections are tight and hoses are not kinked.
Installation Guide for the PRL Catch Can
Installing the PRL catch can on a Kia Stinger is a weekend project that most DIYers can complete in 1–2 hours. The instructions provided by PRL are thorough, but this expanded guide adds context and tips for a smooth installation.
Tools Required
- 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets and wrenches
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
- Trim removal tool (optional, but helpful for unclipping plastic covers)
- Teflon tape or thread sealant (for the threaded fittings)
- Shop towels for wiping up any oil drips
- Torque wrench (recommended for bracket bolts)
Step-by-Step Installation
1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal – This prevents accidental engine cranking and resets the ECU adaptions, which helps the engine relearn after the change.
2. Remove the engine cover – The plastic cosmetic cover on top of the engine lifts off after pulling up on the four grommets. Set it aside.
3. Locate the factory PCV and clean-side hoses – On the 3.3T, the PCV hose runs from the valve cover on the driver’s side to the intake manifold. The clean-side separator hose connects from the passenger side valve cover to the air intake tube. PRL’s kit includes labeled hoses to match.
4. Remove the factory hoses – Use a flathead screwdriver to gently release the spring clamps. Be prepared for a small amount of oil to drip from the PCV side. Wipe clean.
5. Mount the catch can bracket – PRL provides a powder-coated steel bracket that bolts to an existing threaded hole on the driver’s side strut tower. Use a 12mm socket and torque to 18 ft-lbs.
6. Attach the catch cans to the bracket – The kit comes with two cans (one for PCV, one for clean-side). Secure them using the supplied hardware. Do not overtighten the aluminum housing.
7. Route the new hoses – Connect the hose from the PCV port on the valve cover to the inlet of the PCV catch can. Then run the outlet hose from that can to the intake manifold port. Repeat for the clean-side: from the valve cover to the clean-side can inlet, then from the can outlet to the intake tube. PRL provides pre-cut lengths of braided hose with AN fittings that snap together. Ensure hoses do not contact hot engine components or sharp edges.
8. Check all connections – Tighten AN fittings by hand, then use a wrench for an additional quarter turn. Apply Teflon tape to any NPT fittings if specified in the instructions.
9. Secure any loose sections – Use zip-ties to fasten hoses away from moving parts and exhaust heat.
10. Reinstall the engine cover and reconnect battery – Replace the engine cover and tighten the negative battery terminal.
11. Start the engine and check for leaks – Let the engine idle, then rev it to 3,000 RPM and listen for any hissing. Inspect all fittings for oil seepage. If everything is dry, take the car for a short test drive and re-check.
Tips for a Successful Installation
- Work on a cold engine to avoid burns and reduce oil flow.
- If your Stinger has a strut tower brace, you may need to loosen or remove it for bracket access.
- Apply anti-seize to the bracket bolts if you live in a corrosion-prone area.
- Keep the factory hoses and clamps in a labeled bag — you may want to reinstall them if selling the car.
User Reviews and Feedback
Across forums like StingerGT.org, Reddit’s r/kiastinger, and Facebook groups, the PRL catch can receives consistently high marks. Here is a synthesis of common experiences.
“Throttle response feels sharper.” – Multiple owners note that after installation, the car breathes more freely. The engine no longer has to overcome a film of oil on the intake walls. One member on StingerGT.org wrote: “The car pulls harder from 3,000 to 5,000 RPM. It’s not a night-and-day difference, but it’s definitely noticeable.”
“Installation was straightforward, but tight in places.” – The driver’s side area near the PCV outlet can be cramped. Owners recommend removing the coolant reservoir bracket for an extra 2 inches of clearance. PRL’s instructions are clear, but watching a video guide (link to PRL’s official installation video) can help.
“A must-have for anyone keeping their Stinger long-term.” – Many long-term owners appreciate the peace of mind. “I did a walnut blasting at 40,000 miles and the valves were still fairly clean because I’d had the catch can on since 5,000 miles,” one user reported.
“Worth the money even if it doesn’t add instant HP.” – The kit costs around $300–$350, which some consider steep for a “can with hoses.” But given that a full carbon cleaning service can cost $600–$800, the catch can pays for itself in prevention.
Common Criticisms
- Bracket alignment – A few users reported that the bracket holes did not perfectly align with the chassis threads. A slight filing or using a longer bolt solved this.
- Difficulty draining in cold weather – The collected oil can thicken in winter, making it harder to drain through the valve. PRL sells a drain hose extension kit for easier access.
Comparing the PRL Catch Can to Other Options
The Stinger aftermarket includes several catch can solutions: Mishimoto, Saikou Michi, and universal can setups. Here is how PRL stacks up.
| Feature | PRL Motorsports | Mishimoto | Generic Universal |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vehicle-specific fitment | Yes (bolt-on, no cutting) | Yes | No (requires custom hoses) |
| Dual-can design (PCV + clean side) | Yes (included) | Often single can, second can extra | Need to buy two |
| Hose material | Braided stainless steel with AN fittings | Silicone with worm clamps | Rubber hose, may degrade |
| Price | $300–$350 | $250–$350 | $50–$150 |
| Billet aluminum vs. cast | Billet | Cast | Varies |
| Drain valve included | Yes (ball valve) | Yes | Sometimes |
PRL’s billet aluminum construction and AN fittings give it a premium feel and better long-term durability than silicone hoses that may crack. The dual-can setup is also more effective than a single can that must split the flow. For owners who want a true plug-and-play solution with no hose cutting, PRL is the top recommendation.
Maintenance and Emptying the Catch Can
A catch can is not a set-it-and-forget-it part. To keep it functioning, you must drain the collected oil regularly. PRL’s cans come with a quarter-turn ball valve at the bottom.
- Check interval – Every 3,000–5,000 miles (or at every oil change). Heavy driving on track days may require draining every 1,000 miles.
- Draining procedure – Place a small container under the valve. Open the valve slowly — the oil may be hot. Close when empty. Dispose properly.
- Cleaning the can internal – Every 20,000 miles, remove the can, disassemble, and clean the internal baffles with brake cleaner. Replace any o-rings if they become hard.
- What to expect in the catch can – You will see a mixture of oil and water (condensation). In very cold climates, the water can freeze and plug the valve. If this happens, warm the engine before draining.
Neglecting to drain the can can lead to it filling completely, allowing oil to bypass back into the intake. Always check at every oil change.
Conclusion
The PRL catch can for the Kia Stinger is one of the most sensible performance modifications available. While the immediate horsepower gain is modest — typically 2–10 HP at the wheels depending on engine condition and other modifications — the real benefit lies in preserving engine health and preventing the costly carbon buildup that plagues GDI engines. The installation is accessible for intermediate DIYers, the build quality is top-notch, and the peace of mind it provides is invaluable for anyone planning to keep their Stinger for the long haul.
If you are considering this mod, combine it with a quality oil catch can and a consistent maintenance schedule. Your Stinger’s valves will thank you at 60,000 miles. For more technical details and purchasing options, visit the PRL Motorsports official product page. You can also find extensive owner discussions on StingerGT.org and on the Kia Stinger subreddit for real-world experiences and troubleshooting tips.