Installing a Comp Cams camshaft in your Pontiac Firebird is one of the highest-return upgrades you can make, often adding 50 or more horsepower to the wheels when paired with complementary modifications. Whether you’re building a classic 1970s Trans Am with a 400 small-block or tuning a later LS1-powered Firebird, swapping the camshaft alters valve timing, lift, and duration to let the engine breathe more efficiently. This expanded guide walks you through the entire process—from selecting the right cam and gathering tools to breaking in the new camshaft safely. You’ll also find critical torque specs, lubrication tips, and tuning advice that many generic how‑tos leave out. Follow these steps carefully to unlock your Firebird’s true potential.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools and parts on hand before you start prevents frustrating mid‑job trips to the store. Beyond the obvious, invest in a quality camshaft degree kit to verify timing, and a crankshaft pulley puller if your Firebird uses a press-fit balancer. For pushrod engines (pre‑LS), you’ll also need a valve spring compressor and lifter removal tool. Here’s the full list:

  • Comp Cams camshaft (matched to your engine’s displacement, compression, and driving style)
  • Socket set (metric and SAE, depending on year
  • Torque wrench (ft‑lb and in‑lb ranges
  • High‑quality engine oil (SAE 30 or 10W‑40) + camshaft break‑in lubricant
  • Camshaft installation tool (often called a cam handle)
  • Timing chain set (double‑roller or stock replacement; consider upgrading to a Cloyes or Comp Cams set)
  • Complete gasket set (timing cover, intake, valve covers, water pump, and oil pan gasket if needed)
  • Valve spring shims and retainers (if swapping to a higher‑lift cam that exceeds stock spring height)
  • Safety goggles and mechanic’s gloves
  • Engine stand or cherry picker (for access if removing front accessories)

Choosing the Right Comp Cams Camshaft for Your Firebird

Not all Comp Cams profiles deliver 50 HP. The key is matching the cam to your engine’s displacement, compression ratio, cylinder head flow, and intended use. A cam too aggressive for a stock converter and gearset will feel gutless below 2500 rpm. For most Firebirds, a stage 2 street/strip cam with around 220–230 degrees duration at 0.050″ lift and 0.500–0.550″ lift strikes a solid balance. Comp Cams offers the popular XE262H for small‑block Chevys (gaining 25–40 HP) and the LS1 212/218 for 1997–2004 Firebird LS1s (adding 30–50 HP with a tune). Visit Comp Cams’ official camshaft selector tool to narrow options by engine code and vehicle application. If you’re unsure about lobe profiles, consult a tech specialist—incorrect selection can waste time and money.

Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) and Duration

For Firebirds used primarily on the street, a 112–114 degree LSA keeps idle quality acceptable and torque usable. Wider LSA (114°) improves vacuum for power brakes and smooths idle; tighter LSA (108°) builds top-end power at the expense of street manners. Duration at 0.050″ lift is the industry standard for comparison—add about 1.5 times that number for advertised duration. A good rule: 210–224° @ 0.050″ for daily‑driven Firebirds, 225–236° for weekend warriors.

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation is the difference between a one‑afternoon swap and a weekend fight with rusted bolts. Begin by parking the Firebird on a level concrete floor and disconnecting the negative battery cable. For LS‑based engines, also disconnect the ECU harness from sensors near the timing chain cover. Clean the front of the engine with degreaser to prevent debris from falling into the oil pan.

  • Drain engine oil and coolant (remove radiator cap first to relieve pressure).
  • Remove the serpentine belt (or v‑belts on older models).
  • Unbolt and set aside the cooling fan, radiator shroud, and lower radiator hose for clearance.
  • Remove the alternator, power steering pump, and A/C compressor brackets, supporting them without disconnecting hoses.
  • Take off the water pump, harmonic balancer, and timing cover. On LS engines, the timing cover also houses the oil pump drive; mark its alignment.
  • Remove intake manifold and valve covers. For pushrod engines, you’ll also need to remove the distributor (mark rotor position).

With everything stripped from the front of the engine, check for old gasket material on the block surface. A razor blade scraper and brake cleaner work well.

Removing the Old Camshaft

Now that the timing chain is exposed, this is a good time to inspect the old cam and note any wear patterns (e.g., wiped lobes indicate oil starvation or lifter failure). For LS engines, the camshaft slides out the front of the block after removing the camshaft retainer plate (four bolts). For classic small‑block Chevys, the cam is retained by a thrust plate bolted behind the timing gear.

Steps for Pushrod Engines (SBC, Pontiac 400, etc.)

  1. Remove the distributor and lifters (they must be pulled before the cam can slide out). Mark or bucket them to keep lifter bores matched.
  2. Using a harmonic balancer puller, remove the crank pulley and then the timing cover.
  3. Loosen and remove the camshaft gear bolts and slide off the timing chain set.
  4. Unbolt the camshaft thrust plate (if equipped) and carefully slide the camshaft out with a twisting motion to avoid nicking bearing journals.
  5. Take note of the old cam’s part number—you may sell it or reuse it as a core.

Steps for LS Engines

  1. Remove valve covers and rocker arms (or the entire cylinder head on some swaps? No – LS cam can be replaced without removing heads, but you must remove the intake manifold and valley cover to access lifters if you’re replacing them. For a simple cam swap, remove intake manifold, valley cover, and then lifters (if your cam has aggressive ramps, new lifters are strongly recommended).
  2. Unbolt the camshaft retainer plate (3 or 4 bolts) and lens the old cam out forward. Use a long bolt threaded into the cam nose as a handle.

Installing the Comp Cams Camshaft

This is the moment of truth. Follow proper lubrication and alignment procedures to ensure longevity. Never install a dry camshaft—even a new one—without coating lobes and journals with break‑in lubricant (such as Comp Cams’ No. 159).

  • Liberally apply cam bearing assembly lube to all camshaft bearing journals (use a brush to coat each one).
  • Apply a generous coating of the same lube to each lobe, especially the ramps.
  • Slide the camshaft into the block slowly, rotating it slightly to align with bearings. Use a cam installation handle for leverage and control.
  • For LS engines, install the retainer plate and torque bolts to 18 ft‑lb (check factory spec).
  • Install the timing set: align the timing marks on crank and cam gears according to your engine’s firing order (typically both marks at 12:00 or 6:00 on GM V8s). Use a double‑roller chain for reliability.

Comp Cams provides a recommended torque sequence for the cam gear—typically 20 ft‑lb. After installing the chain, rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions to confirm the

To verify that the cam is installed at the correct lobe centerline, use a dial indicator and degree wheel. This catches manufacturing tolerances in the timing set or keyway. The Comp Cams cam card will give the target intake centerline (e.g., 108° ATDC). If you’re off by more than 2°, install offset crank or cam bushings. This step ensures you get the advertised 50‑HP gain.

Reinstalling Components

Work in the reverse order of disassembly, using all new gaskets and O‑rings. Pay special attention to the timing cover seal and the oil pump pickup if it was disturbed. For LS engines, torque the timing cover bolts to 18 ft‑lb in a cross‑pattern and install a new crank front seal.

  • Install the valve covers with fresh gaskets (use a dab of sealant in the corners if running aluminum covers).
  • Reconnect the intake manifold with gaskets (torque in factory sequence: start at the center and work outward).
  • Reattach the alternator, power steering, and accessory drive belts.
  • Fill the engine with fresh oil and a new oil filter. Use a high‑zinc break‑in oil (Comp Cams recommends break‑in oil with ZDDP) or add a zinc additive.
  • Fill the radiator with coolant.

Break‑In Procedure

Cam break‑in is critical for flat‑tappet cams (mushroom lifters) and still important for roller cams. Modern roller cams require a less aggressive break‑in, but it’s wise to prime the oil system first. Never let the engine idle during the first 20 minutes.

  1. Disable the ignition by removing the coil wire or ­pulling the fuel pump relay (for EFI).
  2. Crank the engine without starting to build oil pressure (watch the gauge). This pre‑oils bearings and lifters.
  3. Reconnect ignition. Start the engine and immediately raise the RPM to 2000–2500 RPM. Keep it at that speed for 20 minutes.
  4. During those 20 minutes, vary the RPM slightly but never let it drop below 1500—low oil pressure under high load on the lobes can cause early failure.
  5. After 20 minutes, shut the engine down and let it cool completely. Then re‑torque the intake manifold bolts (they often settle).
  6. Check for leaks around the timing cover, oil pan, and intake.

Tuning and ECU Considerations

A larger cam changes the amount of air the engine moves, particularly at idle and wide‑open throttle. For carbureted Firebirds, you may need to re‑jet the carburetor richer and possibly recurve the distributor for more total timing at lower RPM. For fuel‑injected LS Firebirds, a custom tune is mandatory to avoid lean conditions and to adjust idle speed, timing advance, and fuel tables. Many enthusiasts send their ECU to a mail‑order tuner or use software like HP Tuners. Without tuning, the engine may idle roughly, hesitate on throttle, or even knock. The 50‑HP claim assumes a proper tune is applied—factor in $150–$400 for a dyno tune or remote programming.

Consider also upgrading the valve springs to handle the new cam’s higher lift. Comp Cams offers matched spring kits that include retainers and keepers. Using springs that exceed the stock closed pressure ensures no float at high RPM and prolongs the cam’s life.

Final Checks and Testing

Before you close the hood, perform a thorough inspection:

  • Double‑check all bolts: timing set bolts, rocker arms (torque to spec, usually 22 ft‑lb for LS), intake manifold, valve covers, and front accessories.
  • Reconnect the battery, ensuring the terminals are clean and tight.
  • Start the engine and let it idle (after the break‑in period). Listen for ticking—minor lifter noise can subside after a few minutes; persistent tapping may indicate a sticking lifter or incorrect preload.
  • Check oil pressure on the gauge. It should stabilize above 20 psi at hot idle and 40+ psi at 2000 rpm.
  • Test drive gently for the first 50 miles, avoiding hard acceleration until you’ve verified the tune is safe. Monitor engine temperature and watch for any warning lights.

Conclusion

Installing a Comp Cams camshaft in your Firebird is a rewarding project that delivers a satisfying increase in horsepower and torque. By carefully selecting the correct cam profile, prepping the engine bay, and following precise installation and break‑in procedures, you can reliably achieve that 50‑HP boost—or more. Whether you’re building a weekend track toy or a daily driver, this upgrade transforms the driving experience. For further support, consult Comp Cams’ detailed tech library at Comp Cams Tech Support and check out installation guides from reputable retailers like Summit Racing for part numbers and photos. With patience and attention to detail, your Firebird will be roaring with new life.