Upgrading the exhaust system on your Infiniti Q60 is one of the most satisfying modifications you can make. It transforms the driving experience with a deeper, more aggressive exhaust note while also improving exhaust flow, which can unlock incremental horsepower gains. Among the aftermarket options, the Greddy Exhaust System stands out for its blend of performance, build quality, and distinctive sound. With a typical price point around $1,200, this is a premium upgrade that delivers tangible results—both audibly and dynamically. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the entire installation process, from gathering the right tools to performing final checks after bolting everything up. Whether you’re a seasoned DIYer or a motivated beginner, following these steps will help you achieve a professional-grade installation in your own garage.

Why Choose Greddy for Your Infiniti Q60?

Greddy has been a trusted name in Japanese performance parts for decades, and their exhaust systems are engineered specifically for vehicles like the Q60 (chassis code V37, with the VR30DDTT engine). Unlike generic universal exhausts, Greddy designs their cat-back systems to bolt directly onto the factory downpipes without modification. The system typically uses mandrel-bent stainless steel tubing and a combination of resonator and straight-through mufflers to create a refined tone that isn’t overly loud or drone-prone on the highway. Compared to other popular brands such as AAM Competition, Fast Intentions, or HKS, the Greddy system offers a relatively affordable entry point while still delivering high-quality TIG welding and durable hardware. For Q60 owners who want a daily-drivable exhaust with a noticeable character upgrade, the Greddy system is a strong contender.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand will make the job smoother and prevent frustrating trips back to the hardware store. Below is a complete list of what you’ll need, along with some notes on why each tool matters.

  • Greddy Exhaust System – Ensure the box contains all components: intermediate pipe, axle-back sections, clamps, gaskets, and hardware. Check for any damage before starting.
  • Socket and Ratchet Set – A 3/8″ drive set with metric sockets (primarily 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm) covers most exhaust fasteners. Extensions and a swivel joint are helpful for hard-to-reach bolts.
  • Jack and Jack Stands (2 or 4) – A low-profile floor jack is ideal for lifting the Q60. Never work under a car supported only by a jack; use jack stands placed on the factory lift points.
  • Penetrating Oil – Products like PB Blaster, Kroil, or Liquid Wrench help break loose rusted nuts and bolts, especially on older vehicles where fasteners have corroded.
  • Torque Wrench – Using a torque wrench (range 20-100 ft-lbs recommended) ensures you tighten bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications, preventing leaks or stripped threads.
  • Safety Glasses and Gloves – Protect your eyes from dirt and debris, and wear mechanic gloves to improve grip and avoid sharp edges on the exhaust piping.
  • Rubber Mallet or Dead-Blow Hammer – Useful for gently persuading stubborn hangers or aligning pipes without damaging the finish.
  • Anti-Seize Compound – Apply a thin layer to flange bolts to prevent galling and make future removal easier.
  • Rags and Shop Towels – Keep the work area clean and wipe off any excess penetrating oil or debris.

Safety First

Before you put a single wrench on your Q60, review these safety precautions. Exhaust work involves heat, heavy components, and working under a raised vehicle—so preparation is critical.

  • Park on a level, solid surface. If you’re using a driveway, avoid slopes that could cause the car to roll.
  • Set the parking brake firmly, and chock the rear wheels to prevent movement.
  • Allow the stock exhaust to cool completely if the engine has been running. Even after 15–20 minutes, pipes and catalytic converters can still be hot enough to cause burns.
  • When lifting, always refer to your owner’s manual for the correct jacking points. For the Q60, the front crossmember and rear differential housing are safe lift points, but use jack stands under the pinch welds with proper adapters if available.
  • Work with a helper when maneuvering the heavy stock exhaust out from under the car—it’s awkward and often longer than you expect.

Preparation – Lifting and Inspecting the Underside

Once your Q60 is safely elevated and stable on jack stands, take a moment to inspect the undercarriage. Look for any existing exhaust leaks, rusted hangers, or damaged heat shields. If you find a problem, address it now rather than after the new system is on. Apply penetrating oil to every nut, bolt, and hanger you’ll be removing. Let it soak for at least 10–15 minutes—longer if your car has been exposed to winter road salt. This step alone can save you from snapping a bolt, which would turn a one-hour job into a nightmare of drilling and re-tapping.

Removing the Factory Exhaust System

With everything prepped, you can begin the removal process. The stock Q60 exhaust consists of a mid-pipe section and two rear muffler assemblies, all connected by flanges and suspended on rubber hangers. Work systematically to avoid confusion.

Step 1: Loosen Flange Bolts at the Downpipes

Start at the front where the mid-pipe meets the downpipes (just behind the catalytic converters). There are usually two bolts on each side—these are often the most rusted. Use a penetrating oil-soaked rag to clean the threads, then apply steady pressure with a socket. If they don’t budge, strike the wrench handle lightly with a hammer; the shock can help break the corrosion seal. Remove the bolts completely and set them aside (you’ll need new ones from the Greddy kit, but keep the originals as spares).

Step 2: Detach the Exhaust Hangers

The factory exhaust hangs from rubber isolators at several points. These are usually easy to pop off once you lubricate them with soapy water or silicone spray. Work from front to back: use a pry bar or large flathead screwdriver to lever the metal hanger hook out of the rubber isolator. On the Q60, the rear mufflers have two hangers each—one outer and one inner. A helper can support the weight of the exhaust as you release each hanger.

Step 3: Remove and Set Aside the Stock Exhaust

Once all hangers and flanges are free, carefully lower the stock exhaust. You’ll likely need to slide it toward the rear and then tilt it to clear the rear suspension beam. This is a two-person job. The factory system is heavy (around 40–50 lbs depending on the trim), so avoid dropping it. Move it out of the way, and you’re ready to install the new Greddy hardware.

Installing the Greddy Exhaust System

Now the fun part: putting on your shiny new exhaust. The Greddy system typically ships in several sections: the front Y-pipe (if included in the cat-back version), then the intermediate pipe, and finally the two muffler/tip assemblies. Some Greddy kits for the Q60 are a single-piece mid-pipe with a muffler section, so read the instructions carefully. We’ll cover the general process that applies to most aftermarket cat-backs.

Step 4: Dry Fit the Components without Tightening

Start by loosely placing the exhaust sections together. Begin at the front, attaching the first pipe to the downpipe flange. Use the new gasket supplied in the kit, but do not tighten the bolts yet. Move rearward, connecting each section, and hang the rear portion in the isolators. The goal is to check alignment: the exhaust should follow the factory routing, with no contact against the chassis, braces, or differential. Adjust as needed by gently shifting the pipes. Most systems allow some play at the slip joints and hangers.

Step 5: Align the Tips and Tighten to Spec

Once everything is hanging naturally, look at the exhaust tips from behind the car. Adjust the tip height and centering—most Q60 bumpers have a cutout that the Greddy tips should sit neatly inside, not too high or low. After you’re satisfied with the position, snug all the flange bolts and clamp connections. Use a torque wrench to tighten the flange bolts to the manufacturer’s recommendation—typically 30–40 ft-lbs for stainless steel bolts into the downpipe. Don’t overtighten, as you can warp the flange or strip the threads.

Step 6: Secure the Hangers and Check for Clearance

Push the exhaust hangers fully into the rubber isolators. On the Greddy system, the hooks should seat securely. After everything is tightened, shake the exhaust lightly to ensure it’s stable. Then turn the steering fully left and right to confirm no contact with the steering rack or any suspension components. Also check near the driveshaft tunnel—the intermediate pipe must have at least a finger’s width of clearance on all sides. If something is touching, loosen the joints, adjust, and retighten.

Post-Installation Checks and Break-In

With the new exhaust bolted up, it’s time for a thorough inspection before you fire up the engine.

  • Recheck all bolts, clamps, and hangers for tightness. Use the torque wrench on critical flange bolts.
  • Start the engine and listen for any immediate leaks. Place your hand near the flange joints to feel for escaping air—be careful, as the pipes will heat up quickly.
  • Let the Q60 idle for a few minutes, then rev it gently while observing the exhaust movement. The system will settle slightly as it heats up.
  • After the car has cooled, retorque the bolts. Stainless steel expands when hot; a second pass ensures everything stays leak-free.
  • Take a short test drive. Listen for any rattles, drone, or vibrations that indicate contact with the underbody. If you hear any, note the area and adjust.
  • Allow the exhaust to go through a “break-in” period of about 200–300 miles. New muffler packing settles, and the tone will become richer over time.
Pro Tip: After the first week, recheck the torque on all connections—especially if you live in a region with temperature swings. Thermal cycles can cause stainless fasteners to loosen slightly.

Sound and Performance Expectations

The Greddy system on a VR30DDTT-powered Q60 gives a much more aggressive note than stock while remaining civil for daily driving. Expect a deep, muscular growl at idle and a crisp, full-throated snarl under acceleration. Highway cruising produces minimal drone—Greddy’s Helmholtz resonators or J-tube designs help cancel out the worst frequencies. Power gains are modest but noticeable: most cat-back systems add 10–15 horsepower at the wheels on a tuned Q60, with an improvement in throttle response. However, keep in mind that the stock ECU’s adaptive learning will adjust airflow trims; pairing the exhaust with a professional tune (or at least a standard off-the-shelf tune) will maximize the benefits. You can find more details on performance numbers and sound clips on the official Greddy website and enthusiast forums like Q60.org.

Common Questions and Troubleshooting

Even a straightforward install can hit a snag. Here are answers to a few typical issues Q60 owners face when fitting a Greddy exhaust.

  • Exhaust rattle on cold start? Check the heat shields over the driveshaft or the brackets for the electric parking brake. Sometimes the pipe can vibrate against them—wrapping a small section of the shield with exhaust tape can stop the noise.
  • Bolt snapped during removal? If a flange bolt breaks, use a bolt extractor set. For rusted hangers, cutting the rubber with a utility knife is faster than fighting a seized metal pin—you can buy replacement hangers for a few dollars.
  • Tips not sitting perfectly? Loosen the rear section clamps and adjust the angles. Some Greddy kits have slotted holes for this purpose. A second person pushing or pulling the tips while you tighten the clamps works best.
  • Emissions test concerns? A cat-back system that replaces everything from the catalytic converters rearward is legal in most states because it doesn’t affect the converters. However, if your Q60 has secondary cats, check local laws; some kits delete them, which may cause a readiness monitor issue on OBDII scans.

Maintaining Your Greddy Exhaust

To keep that Greddy system sounding great and looking clean, a little maintenance goes a long way. Stainless steel can develop a golden heat tint over time—that’s normal. If you want to preserve the polished finish, wipe the tips regularly with a metal polish like Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish. Avoid harsh abrasives that can scratch. Every year, inspect the welds and connections for any signs of cracking or corrosion, especially if you drive in a wet climate. The rubber hangers can dry out and crack after a few years; replace them at the first sign of deterioration. A properly maintained Greddy exhaust will outlast the car itself.

Conclusion

Installing a Greddy Exhaust System on your Infiniti Q60 is a weekend project that yields immediate and satisfying results. From the improved sound to the slight bump in performance, the $1,200 investment (plus a few hours of your time) completely transforms the personality of the car. By following this step-by-step guide—prepping properly, removing the old system carefully, aligning the new pipes, and performing thorough checks—you’ll achieve a secure, leak-free installation. Whether you’re cruising the highway or revving through a tunnel, that Greddy exhaust note will remind you why modifying a car is so enjoyable. For more detailed specs and direct purchase options, visit Greddy’s official product page or check out parts retailers like Z1 Motorsports for compatible hardware and tuning accessories.