Tools and Materials Required

Before you begin, gather the following tools and components. Having everything ready saves time and prevents mid-job frustration.

  • Complete lightweight clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, release bearing)
  • Clutch alignment tool (often included with the kit)
  • Flywheel lock tool or a large flathead screwdriver
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb and inch-lb ranges)
  • Socket set with extensions and universal joints
  • Breaker bar and a set of wrenches
  • Transmission jack (or a sturdy floor jack with a helper)
  • Jack stands and a hydraulic floor jack
  • Fluid catch pan and new transmission fluid (Dexron III or equivalent)
  • Safety glasses, gloves, and ear protection
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40 or PB Blaster)
  • Shop rags and a clean work area

Pro tip: Consider replacing the rear main seal, pilot bearing, and slave cylinder while the transmission is out. This saves labor later if those components fail. Many high-performance clutch kits from brands like Summit Racing include updated hardware.

Preparation and Safety

Park the Camaro SS on a level concrete floor. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench. This prevents accidental starter engagement and protects the ECU. Raise the front of the car using a jack placed on the factory-recommended lift points under the front subframe. Secure the vehicle with jack stands rated for at least 3 tons under the frame rails near the front pinch welds. Remove both front wheels and set them aside.

Chock the rear wheels firmly. Let the engine and transmission cool completely if the car has been run. Working on a hot drivetrain can cause burns and warped parts.

Transmission Removal

Drain Fluids and Disconnect Driveshaft

Place a catch pan under the transmission. Remove the drain plug on the transmission pan (if equipped) to drain the fluid. On a manual Camaro SS, there is no pan; you will siphon fluid from the fill plug later. Remove the driveshaft by marking the yoke-to-differential flange alignment with paint or a punch. Unbolt the four flange bolts. Slide the driveshaft out of the transmission tail housing and tie it up out of the way using a zip tie or coat hanger.

Remove Exhaust Components (If Necessary)

On many sixth-gen Camaro SS models, the exhaust crossover pipe or catalytic converter block access to the bellhousing bolts. You may need to unbolt the mid-pipe from the exhaust manifolds and lower it slightly. Use a penetrating spray on the rusted bolts an hour before starting.

Detach the Shifter and Interior Components

Inside the car, remove the shift knob and boot assembly. Unbolt the shifter from the transmission using a set of Allen keys or a Torx bit, depending on the model. On the Tremec TR-3160 or TR-6060, you will need to disconnect the shifter cables from the transmission. Set the shifter aside completely to avoid damage.

Support and Lower the Transmission

Position a transmission jack under the transmission case. Use a safety strap to secure the transmission to the jack. Remove the transmission mount bolts and the crossmember. Unbolt the bellhousing bolts in a crisscross pattern using a long extension and a universal joint. Two bolts on the top of the bellhousing are usually difficult to reach; you may need a flex-head ratchet or a helper to hold the engine steady. Slide the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the flywheel and pressure plate. Lower the jack and move the transmission away from the car.

Removing the Old Clutch Assembly

Lock the Flywheel

Insert a flywheel lock tool into the flywheel ring gear teeth, or wedge a large flathead screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the block. Do not use anything that might chip the teeth. The lock prevents the flywheel from rotating when you loosen the pressure plate bolts.

Remove the Pressure Plate and Disc

Unbolt the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern, one turn at a time, to release spring tension evenly. Once all bolts are out, lift the pressure plate off the dowel pins. Slide the old clutch disc out of the way. Inspect the flywheel surface for scoring, glazing, or cracks. If the flywheel is worn or warped, it must be resurfaced or replaced. A new flywheel is recommended when installing a lightweight clutch to maximize performance gains. American Muscle offers quality flywheel options.

Remove Pilot Bearing and Release Bearing

Use a pilot bearing puller or slide hammer to remove the old pilot bearing from the crankshaft flange. Carefully tap the new pilot bearing in using a socket of the same outer diameter. Grease the inside of the new pilot bearing lightly. Also remove the old release bearing (throw-out bearing) from the clutch fork, and slide on the new one. Many lightweight clutch kits include a new release bearing.

Installing the Lightweight Clutch

Prepare the Flywheel

If you installed a new flywheel, clean it with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating. Lightly sand the friction surface with 180-grit sandpaper to break the glaze and ensure initial proper bite. Torque the flywheel bolts in stages, using the factory specification (around 75 ft-lb for most LS/LT engines, but always verify). Apply blue Loctite to the bolts.

Align the Clutch Disc

Insert the clutch alignment tool through the disc and into the pilot bearing. The disc should slide freely on the splines. Double-check that the disc is oriented correctly – most discs have a “flywheel side” marked.

Position the Pressure Plate

Place the pressure plate over the disc and onto the flywheel dowels. Hand-tighten the pressure plate bolts in a crisscross pattern. Snug them gradually – first to 15 ft-lb, then to final torque (typically 35-45 ft-lb). Remove the alignment tool. The disc should now be centered.

Install the Release Bearing and Clutch Fork

If your kit includes a new clutch fork pivot ball and spring, replace them now. Slide the release bearing onto the fork, ensuring the clips snap in. Grease the input shaft sleeve lightly to allow the bearing to slide on the transmission.

Reassembly

Raise the Transmission Back In

With help, lift the transmission onto the jack. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize or high-temp grease to the input shaft splines. Slide the transmission forward carefully, rotating the output shaft slightly to align the splines with the disc. Never force it – if it stops, pull back and align the splines manually. Once the bellhousing mates fully to the engine block, the transmission should seat flush.

Torque the Bellhousing Bolts

Install all bellhousing bolts and torque them to factory spec (usually 35-40 ft-lb). Reinstall the transmission crossmember and mount. Torque the mount nuts to 60 ft-lb.

Reconnect Drivetrain Components

Reinstall the driveshaft, aligning the marks you made earlier. Tighten the flange bolts to 65 ft-lb. Reconnect the shifter cables or direct shifter assembly. Inside the car, reattach the shift knob and boot. If you lowered the exhaust, reinstall it with new gaskets. Refill the transmission with the correct fluid (check owner’s manual; many Camaro SS units require Dexron III or manual transmission fluid).

Bleed the Clutch Hydraulic System

If you replaced the slave cylinder or disconnected the hydraulic line, you must bleed the system. Use a pressure bleeder or the two-person method. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4 brake fluid (or the fluid recommended in your manual). Pump the clutch pedal 20-30 times to purge air. Check for leaks at the slave cylinder connection.

Final Checks and Break-In Procedure

Lower the Car and Inspect

Remove the jack stands, lower the car, and reconnect the battery. Check all fluid levels (transmission, brake/clutch fluid). Start the engine with the clutch pedal depressed. Listen for unusual noises. Let the engine idle for a minute then shift through all gears in neutral with the engine off, then with the engine running. The shift feel should be smooth.

Test Drive – Light to Moderate

Take the car on a short test drive in low-traffic conditions. Perform gentle starts from a stop, shifting at 2500 rpm. Avoid full-throttle launches or high-rpm shifts for the first 500 miles. This allows the disc and flywheel surface to bed in properly. Some lightweight clutch kits require a shorter or longer break-in period – check the manufacturer’s guidelines.

If you experience chatter, slipping, or pedal vibration, suspect a misaligned pilot bearing, warped flywheel, or air in the hydraulic line. Re-verify all torque specs and the alignment procedure.

Performance Benefits and Considerations

A lightweight clutch reduces rotating inertia, allowing the engine to rev faster and decelerate quicker. This translates to sharper throttle response and quicker gear changes. However, it may increase clutch pedal effort slightly and can be more prone to low-rpm chatter compared to a dual-mass flywheel setup. Many drivers find the trade-off worthwhile for track or spirited street use. For an in-depth discussion on clutch selection, the Camaro6 forum is an excellent resource.

Always consult the factory service manual for exact torque values and disposal procedures for old fluids and parts. Safety first – if you are uncomfortable performing any step, enlist a qualified mechanic. A properly installed lightweight clutch will transform the driving character of your Chevrolet Camaro SS.