engine-modifications
How to Install a Vortech Supercharger on the M156 for an Additional 150 Hp—step-by-step Guide
Table of Contents
Introduction: Unlocking the M156’s True Potential
The Mercedes-Benz M156 engine is a naturally aspirated masterpiece—a 6.2-liter V8 known for its linear power delivery, high-revving character, and throaty exhaust note. But as with any great engine, there’s always room for more. Adding a Vortech centrifugal supercharger transforms this already potent powerplant into a forced-induction monster, delivering an extra 150 horsepower to the wheels without sacrificing reliability when properly installed.
A well-executed Vortech supercharger installation on the M156 not only brings the output into the 600+ wheel-horsepower range (depending on boost level and supporting mods) but also retains daily-drivable manners. The key is meticulous preparation, correct component selection, and precise assembly. This expanded guide covers everything from the required tools to final tuning, so you can approach the project with confidence.
Before you start, note that this installation assumes intermediate mechanical skill and access to a workshop. If you are unfamiliar with forced induction systems, consider working with a professional shop. Also, verify that your specific Vortech kit (e.g., V-3 Si trim, V-7 JT trim) includes all necessary brackets, pulleys, and belt routing for the M156 chassis. Most Vortech kits for this engine are designed for E63 AMG, CLS63 AMG, or S63 AMG models (W211, W219, W221).
Tools, Materials, and Parts Checklist
Hardware and Consumables
- Vortech Supercharger Kit – Head unit, mounting bracket, drive pulley, belt, intake piping, discharge tube, couplers, and hardware.
- Fuel Injectors – High-flow injectors (e.g., 80 lb/hr or 850 cc/min) to support the increased fuel demand.
- Fuel Pump Upgrades – Walbro 525 or equivalent in-tank pump; consider a Boost-A-Pump if staying with the stock fuel pump controller.
- Intercooler or Charge Cooler – Air-to-water system included in most Vortech kits; confirm you have the heat exchanger and pump.
- Engine Oil and Filter – 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic oil (M156 requires low-SAPS oil); OEM or quality oil filter.
- Coolant – Mercedes-spec coolant for the intercooler loop and engine cooling system.
- Gaskets and Seals – Intake manifold gaskets, throttle body gasket, O-rings for any reused connections.
- Thread Locker – Medium-strength (blue) for bolts subject to vibration.
- Antiseize Compound – For exhaust bolts and any stainless steel fasteners.
Specialized Tools
- Socket and wrench set – Metric, 6-point, including 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm.
- Torque Wrench – 1/2″ drive, range 10–150 ft-lb.
- Ratchet, extensions, and universal joints – For tight access around the accessory drive.
- Screwdrivers – Flathead and Phillips, large and small.
- Pick set – For removing vacuum lines and electrical connectors.
- Air compressor, blow gun – For cleaning engine bay and cooling system flushing.
- Cooling system flush kit – Or a simple garden hose adapter.
- Vacuum pump or brake bleeder – For filling the intercooler system.
- Trim removal tools – For plastic clips and cowl panels.
- Safety glasses and gloves – Always wear them.
Optional but Highly Recommended
- Wideband O2 sensor and gauge – For verifying air-fuel ratio during initial start-up.
- Dyno tuning session – On a load-bearing dyno; custom tune by a Mercedes specialist with HP Tuners or Eurocharged.
- Upgraded heat exchanger – Larger or dual-pass for sustained performance on track days.
Preparation and Safety
Park the vehicle on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and tape it to avoid accidental contact. Allow the engine to cool completely—the M156 runs hot and the exhaust manifolds stay hot for hours.
Drain the engine oil and coolant (both engine and intercooler systems) to avoid spills when removing components. Removing the hood is not strictly necessary but provides much better access; mark its hinge position first.
Finally, read the entire Vortech manual that comes with your kit. While this guide covers the general process, specific bolt torques, belt routing, and bracket orientation vary between kits. Have the manual open for reference.
Step 1: Removing Stock Components
Intake System
Remove the engine under-tray for access. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and unbolt the air filter box. On most AMG M156 applications, the air box is a large plastic unit; lift it out after disconnecting the intake duct to the throttle body. Label all bolts and electrical connectors.
Throttle Body
Unclip the throttle body connector. Loosen the four T30 bolts (torx) securing the throttle body to the intake manifold. Carefully wiggle it free—do not damage the gasket surface. Cover the intake manifold opening with a clean rag to prevent debris entry.
Intake Manifold
Disconnect the vacuum lines from the intake manifold: brake booster line, PCV hose, and any evap lines. Unplug the MAP sensor and the runner flap actuator (M156 has variable intake runners). Remove the eight 10mm bolts securing the intake manifold. Lift the manifold straight up; it may be stuck to the gasket. Replace the intake gaskets with new ones.
Accessory Drive Belt and Tensioner
Using a 13mm wrench or socket on the tensioner pulley (rotate clockwise to relieve tension), slip the serpentine belt off the pulleys. Set the belt aside; you will not reuse it because the Vortech kit includes a new, longer belt routed around the supercharger pulley.
Coolant Hoses (if needed)
Some Vortech kits require removing the upper radiator hose for clearance. Drain the coolant and disconnect the hose at the thermostat housing. New hose clamps are recommended.
Step 2: Installing the Vortech Supercharger Bracket and Pulley
The Vortech mounting bracket replaces the factory alternator bracket or mounts to dedicated bosses on the engine block. Clean the mounting surfaces with brake cleaner. Apply a small amount of antiseize to the bolt threads (not thread locker here—the bolts are subject to thermal expansion).
Torque the bracket bolts to the spec in your kit—typically 35–45 ft-lb (M10 bolts) or 18–20 ft-lb (M8 bolts). Do not overtighten, as the aluminum bracket can distort.
Install the supercharger pulley on the head unit shaft. Use the supplied spacer and nut; tighten to the kit’s torque spec. Install the idler pulleys and tensioner for the supercharger belt. Rotate the tensioner to install the new belt according to the routing diagram.
Step 3: Mounting the Vortech Head Unit
Lift the supercharger onto the bracket, aligning the two rear studs with the bracket holes. Slide it into place. The front mounting bolts may need a ball-end hex key. Tighten in a cross pattern to 18–22 ft-lb.
Rotate the head unit pulley by hand to ensure it spins freely without rubbing the bracket. If it binds, loosen and realign the bracket.
Step 4: Intake and Discharge Tubing
Attach the intake pipe from the MAF housing to the supercharger inlet. Use the supplied silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. The MAF sensor must be oriented correctly—most Vortech kits relocate the MAF to the cold side (post-intercooler) or include a blow-through MAF housing.
Connect the discharge pipe from the supercharger outlet to the intercooler (air-to-water unit). Mount the intercooler core in front of the engine, typically where the stock air box was or against the radiator support. Secure the intercooler pump (fuse-to-battery wiring recommended).
Install the charge pipe from the intercooler outlet to the throttle body. Use new O-rings at the throttle body flange.
Step 5: Fuel System Upgrades
With the intake manifold off, replace the fuel injectors. Remove the fuel rail (beware of residual fuel pressure—depressurize via the Schrader valve first). Fit the larger injectors with new O-rings. Reinstall the fuel rail and tighten to 10 ft-lb.
Replace the in-tank fuel pump: remove the rear seat bottom, detach the access panel, disconnect the fuel pump module, and swap the pump. If using a Boost-A-Pump, wire it according to instructions (usually taps into the stock fuel pump control line). Alternatively, a dedicated wiring harness from the battery with a relay is safer.
Step 6: Cooling System
Refill the engine coolant after reconnecting all hoses. For the supercharger intercooler system, mix 50/50 distilled water and Mercedes coolant (or pure water with Water Wetter if not freezing). Fill the intercooler reservoir and use a vacuum filler or self-bleeding method—cycle the pump on and off to purge air.
Step 7: Final Reassembly and Checks
Reinstall the intake manifold with new gaskets; torque to 18 ft-lb in sequence (start center, work outward). Reconnect throttle body, MAF, and all vacuum lines. Double-check every clamp and electrical connection.
Swipe through the supercharger oil—Vortech requires changing the head unit oil: drain the supplied bottle into the unit’s fill plug (rotate shaft slowly to distribute). Do not overfill.
Reconnect the battery negative. Before starting, prime the fuel system by cycling the ignition on/off three times (listen for fuel pump).
Step 8: Tuning and ECU Calibration
A Vortech supercharger on the M156 absolutely requires a custom ECU tune. The factory ECU calibrations (ME9.7 or MSD.5) will not adjust for boost; the engine will run dangerously lean. Use HP Tuners, Eurocharged, or a local tuner experienced with boosted M156 engines.
During the first start, monitor the wideband AFR gauge. Idle should stabilize between 14.1–14.7:1. At light load, target 14.0:1; under boost (atmospheric+), 11.5–12.0:1. If AFRs are lean, do not drive—check for vacuum leaks or fuel pressure issues.
Schedule a dyno tune to dial in the timing, boost ramp, and fuel tables. Expect to gain the advertised 150 whp (at around 7–8 psi).
Step 9: Testing and Break-in
Start the engine and let it idle for 10–15 seconds. Check for leaks at every junction: charge pipes, intercooler, fuel rail, intake gaskets. Rev lightly to 2000–3000 rpm; listen for unusual whine (other than the supercharger—that’s normal) or mechanical noise.
Drive gently for the first 50 miles, staying out of boost. This allows the fuel trims to adapt and any air to bleed from the intercooler. Then perform a few moderate pulls, gradually increasing to wide-open throttle. Log data if possible (boost pressure, AFR, knock).
If the car feels flat, check the intercooler pump for operation; a dead pump will cause high intake air temps and timing pull.
Maintenance After Installation
Change the engine oil and filter after the first 500 miles to remove any debris from assembly. Supercharger oil should be changed every 25,000 miles or per Vortech recommendation. Inspect belts for wear and tension every 5,000 miles.
Conclusion: Enjoying 150 Extra Horsepower
When fitted correctly, a Vortech supercharger transforms the M156 from a screaming NA V8 into a torque-rich forced-induction powerplant. The additional 150 whp is immediately felt from 3000 rpm to redline. With the right fuel system, cooling, and a professional tune, the engine remains reliable for tens of thousands of miles.
For further reading, consult the official Vortech supercharger website for kit specifications, and visit specialist forums like MBWorld for real-world build threads and troubleshooting advice. If you prefer to hand the job to a professional, contact a performance shop like Eurocharged who have extensive experience with boosted AMG engines.