Installing a coilover system on your Subaru WRX is one of the most impactful upgrades you can make for handling, ride quality, and stance. A properly selected and installed set of coilovers transforms the car’s cornering ability, reduces body roll, and allows fine-tuning of ride height and damping. Whether you are a DIY weekend mechanic or a seasoned enthusiast, this guide covers every step from preparation through final alignment, along with the top brands to consider for your build. Follow these instructions carefully to ensure safety, performance, and longevity from your new suspension.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather all necessary tools and components. Having everything on hand avoids frustrating mid-job trips to the hardware store and ensures the work proceeds smoothly.

  • Coilover kit specific to your WRX generation (VA, VB, or earlier chassis)
  • Floor jack and two pairs of jack stands (rated for at least 3 tons each)
  • Metric socket set (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, and 21mm are common)
  • Wrench set (combination wrenches in the same sizes)
  • Torque wrench (capable of 20–120 ft-lb)
  • Spring compressor (only needed if reusing factory top mounts or disassembling coilovers)
  • Pry bar or flathead screwdriver (for separating suspension components)
  • Breaker bar (for stubborn bolts)
  • Anti-seize lubricant
  • Penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or WD-40 Specialist)
  • Safety glasses and gloves
  • Marker or paint pen (for marking alignment settings if desired)
  • Feeler gauges or digital caliper (optional, for preload adjustment)

Some coilover kits come with spanner wrenches for height and preload adjustment; keep them accessible.

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation prevents mistakes and injuries. Park the WRX on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels if working on the front first. Allow the car to cool if it has been driven — hot brakes and exhaust components can cause burns.

1. Loosen Lug Nuts

Before lifting the vehicle, use a breaker bar to crack all lug nuts loose (about a quarter turn). This is much easier with the car’s weight on the ground. Do not remove them yet.

2. Lift and Secure the Vehicle

Position the floor jack under the front center jack point (the front crossmember) or one of the factory pinch weld jacking points. Raise the front of the car until the tires are off the ground, then place jack stands under the reinforced frame rails or designated lift points near each front wheel. Repeat the process for the rear, using the differential or rear subframe as the lift point, and place stands under the rear control arm mounting points or pinch welds. Always test that the vehicle is stable by giving it a gentle shake before crawling underneath.

3. Remove the Wheels

With the car securely supported, finish removing the lug nuts and take off each wheel. Store the wheels and lug nuts in a clean area where they won’t be scratched. This also gives you a chance to inspect your tires and brakes for wear.

Removing the Stock Suspension

Factory WRX struts and springs are a single assembly, but they can be stubborn due to rust or corrosion. Work on one corner at a time to keep the vehicle stable and avoid mixing up hardware.

4. Disconnect the Strut from the Steering Knuckle (Front)

On the front suspension, locate the two lower bolts that secure the strut fork or the strut itself to the steering knuckle. These are typically 19mm or 21mm bolts. Spray them with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes. Use a breaker bar to loosen them, then remove the bolts completely. Depending on your WRX generation, you may need to separate the pinch clamp or drop the lower control arm slightly. For most GD, GR, and VA chassis WRXs, you can separate the strut from the knuckle by prying gently after removing the bolts.

5. Access the Top Mount

Open the hood and locate the three or four nuts securing the top of the strut assembly to the strut tower. These are usually 12mm or 14mm. Remove them carefully — the strut is now only held by the top mount. In some models, you may need to remove a plastic cover or loosen a brake line bracket to gain clearance.

6. Remove the Stock Strut Assembly

With the lower bolts and top nuts removed, the strut assembly can be removed from the vehicle. Lower the assembly downward and out through the wheel well. You may need to tilt it to clear the brake lines or sway bar end link. For the rear, unbolt the sway bar end link from the lower control arm first, then remove the lower strut bolt and top nuts. Be careful not to damage the ABS sensor wires or brake lines.

Important: If you are reusing the factory top mounts or springs, you will need a spring compressor to disassemble the stock strut. Never attempt to disassemble a strut without proper tools — the spring is under high tension and can cause serious injury. Most aftermarket coilovers come as complete assemblies with their own top mounts, so you can skip this step.

Installing the Coilover System

Now the real transformation begins. Before installation, take the time to prepare and adjust the coilovers to your target ride height. Wait to adjust the damping until after the system is installed and you can test drive.

7. Prepare the Coilover

Most coilovers allow separate adjustment of ride height and spring preload. As a starting point, set the spring preload according to the manufacturer’s instructions — usually zero preload (the spring just snug with no gap) or a specified amount. Measure the overall length of the coilover from the top mounting surface to the lower mounting point. A common starting height for a daily-driven WRX is a drop of 1 to 1.5 inches. Use the spanner wrenches to adjust the lower spring perch or the lower bracket to achieve the desired length. Write down the measurements for all four corners for consistency.

8. Install the Coilover Assembly

Start with the front. Position the coilover into the strut tower from below, aligning the top mount studs with the holes in the chassis. If your coilovers use camber plates, orient them according to the instructions — typically with the slot oriented toward the chassis center for camber adjustment. Hand-thread the top nuts onto the studs and tighten them to the specified torque (usually 20–30 ft-lb). Do not fully torque them yet if you plan to adjust camber later.

9. Secure the Lower Mount

Reattach the lower part of the coilover to the steering knuckle or lower control arm using the original bolts. Apply anti-seize to the threads to prevent future corrosion. Torque these bolts to factory specifications (typically 100–130 ft-lb for the front knuckle bolts). Ensure the coilover is not binding; the bushing should rotate freely before the bolt is fully tightened. For the rear, similarly attach the lower eyelet to the control arm and torque to spec.

If you disconnected the sway bar end links, reattach them now. Some coilover kits include adjustable end links to prevent preload on the bar at lowered ride heights. If using adjustable end links, set them so that with the car on the ground, the sway bar is level and not under tension. Tighten the end link nuts securely.

Reassembling the Vehicle

With all four coilovers installed, it is time to put the car back together and prepare for the final setup.

11. Reinstall the Wheels

Place each wheel back onto the hub and hand-thread the lug nuts. Lower the car off the jack stands so that the suspension is under load, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the manufacturer’s specification (typically 75–85 ft-lb for Subaru WRX). This step is critical — never tighten lug nuts with the car in the air as it can warp rotors or cause uneven seating.

12. Perform a Bounce Test

With the car on the ground, push down on each corner several times to settle the suspension. Then roll the car back and forth a few feet to allow the suspension to reach its natural ride height. Measure the fender-to-ground or fender-to-center-cap distance at all four corners to see if the height is even. Adjust the coilover perches as needed, but note that any height change requires re-torquing the top nuts and lower bolts.

Final Checks and Tuning

Installation is only half the battle. To get the best performance and safety, you must address alignment, damping, and preload.

13. Set Damping

Most coilovers have adjuster knobs at the top or bottom. Start with a middle setting (e.g., 12 clicks from full stiff out of 24 total). Drive the car on familiar roads and adjust in increments of two clicks stiffer or softer until you find the balance of control and comfort that suits your driving style. Keep a log of your settings for future reference.

14. Corner Balance (Advanced)

For track-focused builds, consider taking the car to a shop with corner-weight scales. Achieving equal diagonal weight distribution improves balance and traction. This is especially valuable after adjusting ride height.

15. Professional Alignment

A proper alignment is non-negotiable after any suspension change. Even if you only lowered the car slightly, the camber and toe angles will be altered. Schedule an appointment with an alignment shop that specializes in performance vehicles. Provide them with your desired specs — a common aggressive street setup for a WRX is -1.5° to -2.0° front camber, -1.0° to -1.5° rear camber, and 0.00” total toe. Tell the technician about your coilover camber plates if fitted.

Choosing the right coilover brand is as important as the installation itself. Below are five reputable manufacturers that offer kits specifically engineered for the Subaru WRX, each with different strengths.

  • KW Suspension — German engineering with stainless steel bodies and long-lasting damping. KW Variant 1, 2, and 3 series offer fixed, adjustable, and independent compression/rebound settings. Ideal for daily drivers and track enthusiasts alike. View KW WRX kits
  • BC Racing — Taiwanese brand popular for affordable yet high-performance coilovers. The BR and DS series feature 30-click damping adjustment, camber plates, and pillow ball top mounts. Many owners report good reliability for street and autocross use. Browse BC Racing for WRX
  • Tein — Japanese manufacturer with a wide range of WRX-specific kits, from the Flex Z (entry-level) to the Monster Sport (race oriented). Tein is known for its patented “Advanced Needle” valve technology and durable build. See Tein options for WRX
  • Bilstein — Renowned for monotube gas pressure technology and German manufacturing. B16 PSS10 and B14 PSS lines offer excellent ride quality and long service life. Bilstein coilovers are a direct upgrade for those who prioritize handling refinement over extreme adjustability.
  • Fortune Auto — U.S.-based company that custom-builds each set to order. Their 500 and 510 series feature digressive piston technology, spherical bearings, and 24-way damping adjustment. Excellent customer support and rebuild services make them a favorite among enthusiasts who track their cars frequently.

For further reading on coilover selection and setup, refer to this comprehensive guide from Tire Rack: What Are Coilovers and How Do They Work?. Additionally, the Subaru WRX forum NASIOC has extensive threads on user experiences with each brand: NASIOC Brakes, Steering & Suspension forum.

Conclusion

Installing a coilover system on your Subaru WRX is a rewarding project that dramatically improves handling aesthetics and driver engagement. By following this step-by-step guide — from tool preparation through final alignment — you can confidently perform the installation at home and dial in the setup to match your driving style. Remember to torque all fasteners to specification, allow the suspension to settle before making final adjustments, and always prioritize safety by using quality jack stands and never rushing during the process. With the right coilover kit from a trusted brand and careful attention to detail, your WRX will corner flatter, ride more predictably, and look exactly how you envisioned.