Introduction

Upgrading the intercooler on a Nissan GT-R is one of the most effective modifications you can make to improve engine performance and reliability. The factory intercooler system on the R35 GT-R is known to be a limiting factor, especially when you start pushing higher boost levels or driving in warmer conditions. The AMS GT-R intercooler is a direct replacement designed to reduce intake air temperatures dramatically, which leads to more consistent power output and a lower risk of detonation.

This guide is written for beginners who want to tackle this installation themselves. You do not need to be a professional mechanic, but you will need patience, the right tools, and a willingness to work methodically. By following each step carefully, you can complete the swap in a weekend and feel the difference on your next drive. The AMS intercooler kit is engineered to bolt into the factory location with minimal modification, making it an ideal first major upgrade for owners looking to increase horsepower safely.

Before you begin, understand that working on a high-performance vehicle requires attention to detail. Improper installation can lead to boost leaks, overheating, or damage to other components. This guide covers everything from gathering tools to post-installation testing so you can proceed with confidence. For reference, the official AMS Performance website provides model-specific details that you should review alongside this guide. Visit AMS Performance for product specifications and compatibility notes.

Benefits of Upgrading to an AMS GT-R Intercooler

Understanding why this upgrade matters will help you appreciate the work involved and the results you can expect. The factory intercooler on the GT-R is adequate for stock power levels, but heat soak sets in quickly during hard driving. This means your intake air temperatures rise, the engine management system pulls timing, and you lose horsepower. The AMS intercooler is a bar-and-plate design with a larger core volume and improved fin density. It sheds heat far more effectively than the factory unit, especially in stop-and-go traffic or during repeated pulls.

Key performance benefits include:

  • Lower intake air temperatures (IAT) – The AMS core reduces IAT by 30-50 degrees Fahrenheit in many real-world conditions, which directly translates to more power and safety.
  • Consistent power delivery – Because the intercooler resists heat soak, you get repeatable performance lap after lap or pull after pull.
  • Increased horsepower potential – With cooler air, you can run higher boost levels safely. Many owners see gains of 20-40 whp on a tuned car just from the intercooler upgrade alone.
  • Better durability – The cast end tanks and heavy-duty construction are built to handle high boost pressures without cracking or leaking.
  • Direct fitment – Unlike some intercooler kits that require cutting or fabrication, the AMS unit uses the factory mounting points and piping locations.

If you plan to add a tune, downpipes, or exhaust in the future, the intercooler should be one of your first upgrades. It creates a solid foundation for additional power without creating a bottleneck. For a deeper dive into intercooler theory and why cooling matters, read this explainer on intercooler basics from Engine Builder Magazine.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having all your tools and materials ready before you start will save you frustration and wasted time. The AMS GT-R intercooler kit comes with the core, piping, couplers, and clamps you need, but you must supply the tools for removal and installation. Here is a complete list:

  • AMS GT-R intercooler kit (confirm compatibility with your model year)
  • Socket set with metric sizes (10mm, 12mm, 14mm are most common)
  • Combination wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
  • Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
  • Torque wrench (range of 10-50 ft-lb for critical fasteners)
  • Trim removal tools (plastic pry tools to avoid damaging clips)
  • Pipe cutter or hacksaw (if you need to trim silicone hoses for a perfect fit)
  • Heat-resistant silicone couplers (included with most AMS kits, but have spares on hand)
  • T-bolt clamps (included, but verify you have enough for all connections)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic gloves
  • Shop rags and a vacuum (to clean debris from the front end)
  • Jack and jack stands (to raise the front of the vehicle for access)
  • Oil-resistant marker (for marking hose positions before removal)

Do not substitute standard worm-gear clamps for the T-bolt clamps included in the kit. T-bolt clamps provide even clamping force and are less likely to loosen over time. If you need to replace any hardware, use grade 8 or stainless steel fasteners to prevent corrosion. A torque wrench is essential for mounting bolts; overtightening can strip threads in the aluminum radiator support or intercooler brackets.

Preparation Steps

Vehicle Preparation

Start by parking your GT-R on a level concrete surface. Engage the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires. Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm wrench. This step is critical because you will be working near electrical components and sensors. Isolate the cable end with a shop rag or zip tie so it cannot accidentally contact the terminal while you work.

Allow the engine to cool completely. The intercooler is located directly in front of the radiator, and coolant temperatures can remain high for hours after driving. Touching a hot radiator hose or intercooler pipe can cause serious burns. A cool engine also makes it easier to disconnect hoses and clamps without warping or damaging them.

Workspace Organization

Clear the front of the vehicle and lay out your tools on a clean workbench or mat. Take pictures of the stock intercooler piping and hose routing with your phone. These photos will be invaluable when you install the new piping and need to remember which hose goes where. Label any connectors or vacuum lines you remove with masking tape and a marker. Organize bolts and small parts in a magnetic tray or labeled cups so nothing gets lost.

If you are working in a garage, ensure you have adequate lighting. A headlamp or work light aimed at the front bumper area will help you see clamps and bolts that are tucked away. Give yourself at least four hours for the installation if this is your first time. Rushing increases the chance of mistakes.

Removing the Stock Intercooler

Accessing the Front End

The stock intercooler sits behind the front bumper and grille. You do not need to remove the entire bumper, but you will need to take off the lower grille and any plastic shrouds that block access. Use a flathead screwdriver or trim removal tool to carefully pop the clips holding the grille in place. Set the grille aside in a safe location to avoid scratches.

Next, remove the plastic under-tray or belly pan if your vehicle has one. This pan is held in by 10mm bolts and push clips. Removing it gives you access to the lower intercooler bolts and allows you to see the intercooler from underneath. If you have a front lip or splitter, you may need to remove it as well for clearance.

Disconnecting Pipes and Hoses

Locate the two large rubber hoses connected to the stock intercooler on the driver and passenger sides. These are the charge air pipes coming from the turbochargers. Loosen the clamps using a flathead screwdriver or a 7mm socket, and slide the hoses off the intercooler outlets. Some resistance is normal; twist the hose gently to break the seal.

You will also find smaller hoses attached to the intercooler for the boost reference or recirculation system. Disconnect these carefully and label them. On some model years, there is a small coolant line that runs to the stock intercooler. Check your AMS kit instructions to see if you need to cap this line or reroute it. The AMS unit does not use coolant, so you may need to bypass or plug the factory coolant circuit.

Removing Mounting Bolts

The stock intercooler is secured by four to six bolts. Typically, there are two bolts at the top accessed from above and two bolts at the bottom accessed from below. Use a 12mm or 14mm socket with an extension to reach the top bolts. The bottom bolts may be easier to reach with a ratcheting wrench while lying under the vehicle. Remove all bolts and set them aside. Keep them in a labeled bag because you will reuse them for the AMS intercooler.

With the bolts removed, the intercooler should be free. Carefully pull it forward from the top, tilting it slightly to clear the radiator support. It can be heavy, so support it with one hand while you guide it out. Place the stock intercooler on a clean surface. Inspect the mounting area for any debris, leaves, or damaged fins that could affect airflow to the new unit.

Installing the AMS GT-R Intercooler

Positioning the Core

Lower the AMS intercooler into the same cavity where the stock unit sat. It should fit snugly without forcing it. The bar-and-plate design is thicker than the stock core, so you may need to angle it slightly to slide it past the radiator and A/C condenser. Take your time and avoid scraping the fins against anything sharp.

Once the intercooler is in place, align the mounting tabs with the factory holes. Insert the stock bolts and tighten them by hand first. Use a torque wrench to tighten them to the specifications in the AMS manual. Typical torque values are 15-20 ft-lb for these fasteners. Do not overtighten, as the brackets are aluminum and can strip.

Connecting the Charge Pipes

The AMS kit includes new charge pipes that are larger in diameter than the factory pipes. These pipes reduce restriction and flow more air. Fit the silicone couplers onto the intercooler outlets first. Apply a small amount of soapy water to the inside of the coupler to help it slide on. Slide the charge pipes into the couplers and position the T-bolt clamps over the joint.

Connect the other end of each charge pipe to the turbo outlet or factory hard pipe using the supplied couplers. You may need to trim the silicone hoses with a pipe cutter if the fit is too long. Measure twice and cut once. Tighten all clamps evenly using a screwdriver or 7mm socket. The clamps should be snug enough that the hose cannot rotate by hand but not so tight that you deform the metal pipes.

Reconnect any small vacuum lines or boost reference hoses to the barb fittings on the new charge pipes. Use the labels you made during disassembly to ensure correct routing. A leak in a small line can cause boost control issues or a check engine light.

Securing the System

Reinstall any brackets or supports that came with the AMS kit. Some kits include a support bracket for the charge pipes to prevent them from vibrating against the radiator fan shroud. Install these brackets before you tighten the clamps fully so you can adjust pipe position for clearance. Verify that no pipes are touching the radiator, fan, or hood liner. Metal-to-metal contact will create noise and could wear a hole in a pipe over time.

Reattach the plastic shrouds and under-tray that you removed earlier. Use the original clips and bolts. If any clips are broken, replace them to prevent rattles. Make sure the lower grille snaps back into place securely.

Post-Installation Checks and Testing

Before you reconnect the battery, do a thorough visual inspection. Check every clamp, every hose connection, and every bolt. Look for any tools or rags left in the engine bay. This is the most common mistake beginners make, and it can cause serious damage if a rag gets sucked into the turbo inlet or caught in the fan.

Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten it to 80 in-lb. Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for any hissing sounds that indicate a boost leak. A small leak will show up as a high-pitched whistle under acceleration. If you hear a leak, shut the engine off and tighten the clamps on that side. You can also use a boost leak tester if you have one, but for a beginner, listening and a short test drive are usually sufficient.

Take the vehicle for a short test drive. Keep the speeds moderate and avoid full throttle until you have driven a few miles to confirm everything is secure. Pay attention to boost pressure on your gauge. If boost is lower than before, there may be a leak. If boost is higher, do not worry. The freer-flowing intercooler and pipes can reduce restriction, which sometimes allows the turbos to spool more efficiently and produce slightly higher boost. Monitor your intake air temperatures using the factory gauges or an OBD2 scanner. You should see IAT drop noticeably after a pull compared to the stock intercooler.

Tuning and Performance Considerations

Installing the AMS intercooler alone will provide benefits, but to maximize the gain, you should consider a professional tune. The cooler air allows for more aggressive timing and higher boost without knock. Many owners pair this intercooler with an E85 tune for the best results. If you already have a tune, you may need a revision to take advantage of the lower IATs. Check with your tuner for specific recommendations.

The AMS intercooler is compatible with most aftermarket intake and exhaust systems. If you plan to upgrade inlet pipes, throttle bodies, or the intake manifold in the future, the intercooler will support those modifications without becoming a bottleneck. For comprehensive guidance on GT-R performance upgrades, check the forums at GT-R Life for real-world owner experiences and tuning advice.

Maintenance Tips for Longevity

Bar-and-plate intercoolers require minimal maintenance, but a few habits will keep your AMS unit performing well for years. Wash the front of the intercooler core gently with a hose or pressure washer on a low setting every few months. Road debris, bugs, and salt can clog the fins and reduce airflow. Do not use a pressure washer at close range or you may bend the fins. A fin comb can straighten any bent fins you notice.

Inspect the T-bolt clamps annually. Temperature cycles and vibration can loosen them slightly. Retighten them to the manufacturer's specification if needed. Silicone couplers can degrade over time if exposed to oil vapor from the crankcase ventilation system. If you notice oil residue inside the pipes, consider adding a catch can to keep the system clean. The intercooler itself can be cleaned with a mild degreaser if oil buildup occurs, but this is rarely necessary on a street-driven car.

If you track your GT-R frequently, replace the silicone couplers every two to three years as a precaution. Heat cycles can harden silicone and reduce its ability to seal under high boost. AMS offers replacement couplers and clamps as separate parts if needed.

Common Questions and Troubleshooting

Will the AMS intercooler fit my GT-R model year?

AMS manufactures intercooler kits for the 2009-2024 R35 GT-R. However, there are minor differences in piping routing between early and late models. Check the product description on the AMS website to confirm compatibility with your specific year. Some kits include additional adapters for 2015+ model years.

Can I install the intercooler with the bumper still on?

It is possible to install the intercooler without removing the complete bumper, but you will need to remove the lower grille and maybe the splash shields. Some owners prefer to remove the bumper entirely for better access. Removing the bumper adds 30 minutes but makes the job much easier, especially for a beginner. If you have never removed the front bumper on a GT-R, watch a quick video guide on YouTube for your model year.

Why is my boost reading higher after installation?

A higher boost reading is normal in many cases. The stock intercooler and pipes create more restriction, which causes a pressure drop across the system. The AMS unit flows better, so the turbochargers do not have to work as hard to push air through. This can result in a slightly higher manifold pressure. If the increase is more than 1-2 psi, have your boost solenoid and wastegate duty cycle checked to ensure you are not overboosting.

What should I do if I have a boost leak?

First, identify which side of the system is leaking. A whistling sound or a drop in boost pressure under load are common signs. Check all T-bolt clamps and ensure they are tight. Look for any coupler that has slipped off the pipe end. If the leak persists, use a boost leak tester to pressurize the system to 10-15 psi and listen for escaping air. A soapy water spray can help you pinpoint the exact location. Tighten or reposition the affected clamp and retest.

Conclusion

Installing an AMS GT-R intercooler is a straightforward project that delivers measurable performance improvements. The cooler intake charge not only adds horsepower but also protects your engine from knock and heat-related timing retard. By following this step-by-step guide, you have the knowledge to complete the installation correctly, even if you are new to working on performance cars.

Take your time during each phase. Proper preparation and attention to detail will reward you with a leak-free system that performs reliably for years. After you finish the install and test drive, you will understand why this upgrade is so popular among GT-R enthusiasts. If you encounter any issues or have additional questions, the AMS technical support team and the GT-R community are excellent resources. Enjoy the improved performance and the satisfaction of having done the work yourself.