Understanding the Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam for the Chevy 350

The Edelbrock Performer RPM camshaft (part number 2102 for small-block Chevy) is a hydraulic flat-tappet cam designed for high-performance street and strip use. It delivers a broad power band from 1,500 to 6,500 rpm, making it ideal for a 350 cubic-inch engine equipped with aftermarket intake and headers. The cam features 278/288 degrees of advertised duration and 0.488/0.510 inches of valve lift (intake/exhaust), producing a noticeable but street-friendly idle. Before you begin, confirm that your engine uses a non-roller camshaft (most pre-1987 350s are flat-tappet; later blocks are roller-ready but can accept this cam with appropriate thrust buttons).

For more detailed specifications, refer to Edelbrock’s official page: Edelbrock Performer RPM 2102.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools and components beforehand prevents mid-job delays. In addition to the camshaft itself, plan on replacing the timing chain, timing set, and gaskets for a reliable installation.

Essential Tools

  • 1/2-inch drive socket set (metric and SAE) – common sizes: 9/16, 5/8, 3/4, 15mm, 18mm
  • Torque wrench (0–150 ft-lb, 3/8 and 1/2 drive)
  • Camshaft installation tool (or a long bolt and large washer to pull cam)
  • Piston stop tool to verify TDC
  • Timing chain tensioner tool (if needed for chain installation)
  • Gasket scraper and razor blade
  • Shop rags and brake cleaner
  • Safety goggles and mechanic’s gloves
  • Multimeter (for ignition timing later)
  • Dial indicator and degree wheel (optional but recommended to verify cam timing)

Materials and Replacement Parts

  • Edelbrock Performer RPM Camshaft (part #2102)
  • New hydraulic lifters (recommended: Edelbrock #2106 or Comp Cams 812-16)
  • High-quality timing chain and sprocket set (Edelbrock #7800 or Cloyes double-roller)
  • Camshaft break-in lubricant (e.g., Comp Cams Cam Break-In Lube or Joe Gibbs BR30)
  • Engine oil (10W-30 or 10W-40 with high zinc/phosphorus for flat-tappet cams)
  • Valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, timing cover gasket, and front seal
  • New water pump gasket and thermostat gasket (if removed)
  • Loctite (blue 242) for small bolts

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation ensures a clean workspace and prevents contamination. Start with a cool engine and gather your tools.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Secure the cable away from the post.
  2. Raise the vehicle on jack stands if you need access underneath (not always required but helps for oil pan removal if necessary).
  3. Drain the engine coolant into a clean container. Remove the radiator hoses, fan, fan shroud, and water pump to access the timing cover.
  4. Remove the alternator and power steering pump (if they block the front of the engine). Do not disconnect the A/C lines if present; unbolt the compressor and tie it aside.
  5. Remove the intake manifold. Mark and label all vacuum lines and wiring.
  6. Remove the valve covers. Back off the rocker arms and pushrods, then remove them. Keep them in order for reinstallation.
  7. Remove the distributor (note the rotor position for reinstallation).
  8. Remove the harmonic balancer using a puller. Once removed, unbolt the timing cover.
  9. Clean the front of the block and old gasket material meticulously. Any debris can destroy the new cam bearings.

If you plan to replace the oil pan gasket (recommended when the timing cover is off), now is the time to loosen the oil pan bolts and lower the pan slightly to replace the front seal.

Removing the Old Camshaft

With the front of the engine stripped, you can access the camshaft. These steps assume you are keeping the engine in the vehicle (in-chassis installation). Work carefully to avoid dropping the cam or damaging bearings.

Step 1: Set Engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) on Cylinder #1

Rotate the crankshaft using the balancer bolt until the timing mark aligns with TDC on the compression stroke. Verify by feeling compression at the spark plug hole or by watching the distributor rotor (it should point to the #1 plug wire). A piston stop tool can confirm exact TDC.

Step 2: Remove the Timing Chain and Sprockets

With the timing cover off, unbolt the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain can now be removed along with the sprockets. If using a double roller set, note the orientation of the keyway slots. Keep the bolts and washers organized.

Step 3: Remove the Camshaft Retaining Plate

The camshaft is secured by a triangular or oval retaining plate (or a cam button in some blocks). Unbolt it and set aside. If a cam button exists, remove it carefully—it may spring out.

Step 4: Slide Out the Old Cam

Slide the old camshaft straight out of the front of the block. Rotate it slightly as you pull to avoid binding on the cam bearings. If the cam doesn’t come easily, double-check that no pushrods or lifters are pressing against it. Caution: If you did not remove the lifters, each lifter must be lifted out of its bore before the cam can be withdrawn; otherwise, the lobes will damage the lifter bodies. In a flat-tappet engine, it is safest to remove the lifters and label their positions.

Step 5: Inspect the Block and Cam Bearing Journals

Clean the cam bore with a lint-free cloth and inspect the cam bearings for scoring, pitting, or excessive wear. If the bearings are damaged, have a machine shop replace them before installing the new cam. While rare, a spun cam bearing will ruin the new camshaft.

Installing the Edelbrock Performer RPM Cam

Now the new camshaft goes in. Proper lubrication and handling are critical for longevity. Never force the cam—if it binds, you likely have an obstruction or misalignment.

Step 1: Lubricate the New Cam

Apply a thick layer of camshaft break-in lubricant (high in zinc and phosphorus) to all cam lobes, the distributor drive gear, and the cam bearing journals. Also coat each lifter foot and the lifter bores. This initial lubrication prevents metal-to-metal contact during the first few revolutions.

Step 2: Install the Camshaft

Gently slide the cam into the block, rotating it slowly to align with the cam bearings. Use a camshaft installation tool (a long bolt with a large washer) to pull it the last inch without damaging the rear plug. Install the retaining plate or cam button. Torque the retaining bolts to the factory spec (usually 20 ft-lb for the three 5/16-inch bolts).

Step 3: Install the Timing Set

Align the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket timing marks according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam, typical straight-up timing (0 degrees) works well. Use a dial indicator to verify the valve timing if you have a degree wheel—this ensures the cam is not advanced or retarded. Tighten the cam sprocket bolts with Loctite to the specified torque (often 20 ft-lb for 5/16 bolts, then an additional 90 degrees for a bolt-on sprocket).

Step 4: Check Timing Chain Deflection

Double-check that the timing chain has proper tension (not loose) and that the marks align. Rotate the engine two full rotations by hand and recheck the marks. Use a timing chain damper if the block has provisions.

Step 5: Install Lifters and Pushrods

If you removed the lifters, place them back into their original bores (or install new ones) after coating with break-in lube. Install each pushrod through the intake valley; ensure each sits correctly in the lifter socket. For the rocker arms, adjust to zero lash plus the manufacturer’s preload (typically 1/2 to 3/4 turn for hydraulic flat-tappet). A good starting point: tighten until the pushrod stops rotating freely, then add 1/2 turn.

For deep details on timing chain installation, see the guide at Summit Racing Installation Instructions.

Reassembling the Engine

Once the cam and lifters are in place, reassemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly. Pay attention to gasket sealing and torque specs.

Valve Covers and Intake Manifold

  • Install a new gasket on the timing cover, apply a thin bead of silicone at the corners, and bolt it on. Torque the timing cover bolts in a cross pattern to 6–9 ft-lb.
  • Reinstall the harmonic balancer using a proper installer tool (do not hammer it on). Torque the balancer bolt to 70–90 ft-lb plus Loctite.
  • Install the water pump, thermostat housing, radiator hoses, and fan assembly. Refill coolant.
  • Install the intake manifold with new gaskets. Apply a bead of RTV at the front and rear china walls. Torque the intake bolts in sequence to 25–30 ft-lb.
  • Attach the valve covers, using new gaskets and lightly lubricating the rail.

Ignition and Accessories

  • Reinstall the distributor. Ensure the rotor points to the #1 terminal when the engine is at TDC on compression stroke. A timing light will be used later to set the base timing.
  • Reconnect all vacuum lines, throttle linkage, and wiring. Install the serpentine or V-belts and adjust tension.
  • Refill the engine with oil (preferably a high-zinc break-in oil) and install a new oil filter. The cam break-in oil should contain at least 1,200 ppm zinc.

Double-check that no tools or rags are left inside the intake valley or timing cover.

Camshaft Break-In Procedure

The break-in procedure is the most critical part of a flat-tappet cam installation. Skipping or rushing it can result in cam lobe failure within seconds. Follow these steps precisely:

  1. Prime the oil system: disable the ignition and fuel, then crank the engine for about 30 seconds (with a remote starter button) until the oil pressure gauge shows pressure. Alternatively, use a drill and priming tool to spin the oil pump.
  2. Start the engine and immediately bring the rpm to 2,000–2,500 rpm. Do not let it idle; the low oil pressure at idle cannot protect the cam lobes.
  3. Operate the engine at varying speeds between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm for the first 20 minutes. Avoid steady rpm or high loads. Use a fan to keep engine temperature under 200°F.
  4. After the break-in, let the engine idle and check for leaks and unusual noises. The lifters may be noisy initially but should quiet down after a few minutes.
  5. Shut the engine off and let it cool for 30 minutes. Re-torque the intake manifold bolts (and head bolts if they were loosened). Adjust valves if necessary.

For an authoritative break-in guide, refer to EngineLabs Camshaft Break-In Tips.

Final Steps and Test Drive

After break-in, set the base timing. With a timing light connected to cylinder #1, adjust the distributor until the timing mark aligns with the manufacturer’s recommendation (typically 10–12 degrees BTDC for the Performer RPM cam). Allow the engine to warm up to operating temperature.

  • Check idle quality—the Performer RPM cam has a moderate lope; idle smoothness may require slightly higher idle speed (800–900 rpm) in gear for automatic transmissions.
  • Inspect for oil leaks around the timing cover, valve covers, and intake. Re-tighten any suspect bolts.
  • Verify that the cooling system is functioning and that the thermostat opens properly.
  • Take the vehicle on a gentle test drive. Vary the rpm, avoid heavy load or high rpm for the first 100 miles. After 500 miles, consider an oil change to remove break-in wear particles, then switch to a high-zinc conventional oil for flat-tappet engines.

Conclusion

Installing the Edelbrock Performer RPM cam in your Chevy 350 is a rewarding upgrade that significantly boosts mid- and top-end horsepower. By following this detailed step-by-step guide, you ensure a safe, effective installation that maximizes cam longevity. The key takeaways are: never skip cam lobe lubrication, follow the break-in procedure to the letter, and double-check your timing marks. With patience and attention to detail, your Chevy 350 will thank you with years of strong performance.

For additional resources on selecting the correct cam for your build, visit JEGS Edelbrock Camshafts or consult the Edelbrock Installation Manuals.