Why Upgrade to Hedman Challenger Headers?

Swapping your factory exhaust manifolds for a set of Hedman Challenger headers is one of the most effective bolt-on performance upgrades you can make. Stock manifolds are typically cast iron or thin steel, designed more for noise reduction and low cost than airflow. Hedman headers use mandrel‑bent tubing and a smooth collector design that dramatically reduce exhaust backpressure. The result: your engine can exhale more freely, unlocking 10–20 horsepower in many applications, improving throttle response, and often boosting fuel economy under normal driving conditions.

Beyond raw power, headers can also drop under‑hood temperatures (since they shed heat quickly) and give your engine bay a purposeful, aggressive look. Hedman has been a trusted name in headers since 1962, and their Challenger series offers a balance of affordability and proven performance for street, strip, and truck builds.

Choosing the Right Hedman Headers for Your Vehicle

Before you buy, confirm that the headers are designed for your specific make, model, and engine configuration. Hedman’s Challenger series covers a wide range of applications – from small‑block Chevys to Ford big‑blocks and everything in between. Key factors to consider:

  • Primary tube diameter: 1⅝‑inch tubes work well for mild street engines; 1¾‑inch or larger suit high‑horsepower builds.
  • Tube wall thickness: 14‑gauge steel is standard; 16‑gauge is lighter but less durable. Most Challenger headers are made from durable 14‑gauge steel with a high‑temperature black paint.
  • Collector size: Most sellers list the collector outlet size (often 3 inches). Make sure it matches your existing exhaust system or plan an adapter.
  • Fitment notes: Check if the headers will clear steering shafts, clutch linkage, starter, and frame rails. Read owner reviews or consult Hedman’s fitment guide. Some models require manual transmission cars to have a hydraulic clutch.

If you are unsure, call or email a performance parts retailer like Summit Racing or JEGS; their techs can verify fitment for your year and model.

Tools and Materials Needed

Gather these items before you start. Having everything on hand prevents frustrating trips to the parts store mid‑project.

  • Hedman Challenger headers (with bolts, gaskets, and reducers if included)
  • Socket set (metric and SAE – include deep sockets for header bolts)
  • Torque wrench (capable of reading in lb‑ft)
  • Ratchet and extension bars (including a wobble extension for tight bolts)
  • Combination wrenches (open‑end and box‑end)
  • Gasket scraper or razor blade
  • New header gaskets (Hedman includes gaskets; some builders prefer a multi‑layer steel gasket like Cometic)
  • High‑temperature silicone sealant (e.g., Permatex Ultra Copper RTV, rated to 650°F)
  • Anti‑seize compound (for header bolts)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Jack and jack stands (or a lift)
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or WD‑40 Specialist)
  • Shop rags and a drop light

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation helps you avoid damage to yourself or your vehicle.

  1. Park and cool down: Park on a level surface and let the engine cool completely. Working on a hot engine risks burns; also, hot bolts can warp when removed.
  2. Disconnect the battery: Remove the negative battery cable to eliminate any chance of shorting tools across the starter solenoid or sensors.
  3. Raise the vehicle: Use a jack and then support it securely on jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone. If possible, raise the front high enough to work comfortably underneath.
  4. Remove obstructions: Take off the air intake tube, heat shields, spark plug wires (label them!), and any alternator brackets that block manifold access. On some vehicles, you may need to unbolt the starter for clearance.
  5. Apply penetrating oil: Spray the manifold bolts and exhaust pipe flange nuts with penetrating oil. Let it soak for 10‑15 minutes to break loose rust and carbon.

Step 1: Removing the Old Exhaust Manifold

With the area prepped, removal is straightforward but can be stubborn on older vehicles.

  1. Use a socket and ratchet (or a breaker bar) to remove the manifold bolts. Work from the outer bolts inward. If any bolt feels stuck, apply more penetrating oil and try gently tapping the bolt head with a hammer.
  2. Once all bolts are out, gently pry the manifold away from the cylinder head. If it sticks, a few light taps with a rubber mallet can break the seal.
  3. Slide the manifold off the exhaust studs (if equipped) and set it aside. Be careful not to damage nearby hoses or wiring.
  4. Unbolt the exhaust pipe from the manifold flange. You may need to remove the pipe bracket from the transmission bellhousing or frame rail to gain slack.
  5. Clean the head surface: Use a gasket scraper or razor blade to remove all old gasket material. Work carefully to avoid gouging the aluminum cylinder head (if you have an LS or late‑model engine). Finish with a rag and brake cleaner to remove oil residue.
Pro tip: If you have an SBC or BBC with a mechanical fan, now is a good time to remove the fan shroud and fan for extra working room – it takes 15 minutes and saves endless cussing.

Step 2: Installing the Hedman Challenger Headers

Installation is the reverse of removal, but with a few tricks to make the job easier.

  1. Test‑fit the header: Before applying gaskets or sealant, hold the header up to the head to check clearance. Look for interference with the spark plugs, frame, steering shaft, or motor mounts. Hedman headers are engineered for fit, but every chassis is slightly different.
  2. Prepare the gaskets: Apply a thin bead of high‑temperature silicone to both sides of each gasket (or use the gasket dry – check manufacturer instructions). Many builders prefer a dry multi‑layer steel gasket for uniform clamping.
  3. Install the gaskets: Place the gaskets over the head studs or align them with the bolt holes. Some gaskets have a “top” mark – ensure they are oriented correctly.
  4. Position the header: From underneath or above (depending on vehicle), lower the header onto the studs. You may need to temporarily remove a motor mount bolt and jack the engine up a few inches for clearance on some older cars. Use a helper to guide the header past brake lines or steering components.
  5. Start bolts by hand: Thread all the header bolts a few turns by hand to avoid cross‑threading. Use anti‑seize on the threads for future removal. Work from the center bolts outward.
  6. Torque to spec: Use a torque wrench and tighten in a criss‑cross pattern to the manufacturer’s specification (typically 20–30 lb‑ft, but confirm with Hedman’s included instructions). Over‑torquing can warp the flange or crack the header.

Step 3: Connecting the Exhaust System

Now you’ll link the headers to the rest of the exhaust.

  1. Slide the supplied reducer or adapter (if any) onto the header collector.
  2. Loosen the clamp or bolts on your existing exhaust pipe. If it’s an old system, you may need to cut or spread the pipe to fit over the collector. Use an exhaust pipe expander tool if needed.
  3. Apply a bead of high‑temperature sealant around the collector opening, then slide the pipe over.
  4. Secure with a heavy‑duty band clamp or bolted flange. Tighten enough to hold, but leave a little wiggle for alignment. Do not fully tighten until the entire system is aligned.

Step 4: Reassembly and Final Checks

Before lowering the vehicle, double‑check everything.

  • Reinstall any heat shields, brackets, spark plug wires, and the starter (if removed). Ensure wires are routed away from header tubes – use spark plug boot protectors or heat sleeves (available from aftermarket suppliers).
  • Recheck all header bolts one more time.
  • Reattach the battery, negative terminal last.
  • Remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to its normal ride height.

Step 5: Testing and Leak Inspection

A proper test drive and inspection ensure your install is leak‑free and safe.

  1. Cold start: Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for ticking sounds near the header flanges – that’s a classic exhaust leak. Also check the collector connections.
  2. Warm up: Let the engine reach operating temperature. The metal will expand and may make small leaks more apparent.
  3. Visual check: With a flashight, look for black soot around the head flanges and collector joints. You can also carefully hover your hand near the joints (keep 6 inches away) to feel for puffs of exhaust.
  4. Short test drive: Drive gently for 5–10 minutes. Listen for rattles (clearance issues) and watch the temperature gauge. If the engine runs hotter than usual, check for a plugged cross‑under section or an improperly routed oxygen sensor (if applicable).
  5. Re‑torque after heat cycle: Once the engine cools, re‑torque all header bolts. Heat cycling can cause bolts to loosen slightly. This is a critical step that many installers skip.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Exhaust leak at the head flange: Usually fixed by retorquing bolts. If it persists, the flange may be warped – send the headers back for warranty. As a temporary fix, use a double gasket with high‑temp silicone.

Header hits steering shaft: On some vehicles, you may need to adjust the shaft or use a “header friendly” steering joint. Hedman often offers a slight dimple or clearance dent on the tube; if not, carefully dimple the tube with a rounded punch (check with Hedman customer service first).

O2 sensor wires melting: Always use heat‑resistant wire boots and route sensor wires away from header primary tubes. Consider wrapping the wires in heat reflective tape.

Maintenance and Long‑Term Care

Hedman Challenger headers come with a high‑temperature black paint that works well for a few months but can burn off near the collector. To protect against early rust:

  • After the first 100 miles, re‑torque the bolts and inspect the paint. Touch up any bare spots with a 1200°F‑rated spray paint (like VHT Flameproof).
  • If you drive in salty conditions, consider ceramic coating after the warranty period. Ceramic coating reduces under‑hood heat and stays looking fresh for years.
  • Check the collector gasket periodically – it can blow out after hard use. Replace with a high‑quality graphite gasket.

When to Seek Professional Help

Installing headers is an intermediate‑level project. If your vehicle has rusted exhaust pipes, seized bolts, or limited on‑ground access, a professional shop can do the job in 3–5 hours. Labor costs typically range from $200–$500, but the confidence of a leak‑free install may be worth it.

Conclusion: Enjoy the Rewards

Installing Hedman Challenger headers is a rewarding weekend project that yields real seat‑of‑the‑pants performance gains. The improved exhaust scavenging helps your engine breathe, and the deeper exhaust note is a bonus. Follow this guide step by step, invest in quality gaskets and tools, and take your time. Your Challenger‑equipped car or truck will thank you with crisp throttle response and a few extra horsepower for miles to come.

For additional tips and product support, visit Hedman’s official website or browse their extensive header catalog on Summit Racing.