Introduction: Unlocking Serious Horsepower with APR’s 2.7T Intake and Downpipe

Upgrading your vehicle’s intake and exhaust system is one of the most effective ways to improve airflow, reduce restriction, and unlock significant horsepower gains. APR’s 2.7T intake and downpipe combination is engineered to deliver a verified increase of over 60 horsepower at the wheels when paired with proper ECU calibration. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step walkthrough for installing both components on your 2.7T engine, covering tools, safety procedures, removal, installation, and post-installation checks. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or a first-time modifier, following these instructions carefully will help you achieve a reliable, leak-free installation and get the most out of your APR performance parts.

Why Upgrade the Intake and Downpipe on a 2.7T?

The factory intake and downpipe are designed to balance noise, cost, and emissions – not maximize power. The restrictive stock airbox and silencer limit incoming air volume, while the narrow, often catalytic-loaded downpipe creates a bottleneck for exhaust gases. APR’s cold air intake replaces the restrictive components with a larger, free-flowing filter and smooth tubing, drawing cooler air from behind the bumper. Their downpipe features a mandrel-bent, larger-diameter pipe and a high-flow catalytic converter (or a catless option for dedicated track cars). Together, these mods drastically improve the engine’s ability to breathe, especially when the turbo spools. The result is faster spool, increased top-end power, and the foundation for a +60 hp gain when a Stage 2 or equivalent tune is applied. Without proper tuning, the gains will be less dramatic but still noticeable.

What to Expect from This Installation

Skill Level: Intermediate. Requires basic mechanical knowledge, ability to jack and support the vehicle, and careful handling of sensors and emissions components. Time Estimate: 4-6 hours for a first-time installer working methodically. Tools Required: Standard metric socket set (3/8″ and 1/2″ drive), torque wrench (ft-lb and in-lb), screwdrivers, pliers, jack and jack stands, penetrating oil, shop towels, and safety glasses. A set of trim removal tools may be helpful for clips. Maintain a clean workspace and have a fire extinguisher nearby as a precaution.

Tools and Equipment Needed (Expanded)

  • Metric socket set: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm. Deep sockets helpful for some fasteners.
  • Torque wrenches: One for low range (in-lb) and one for higher range (ft-lb). Critical for turbo-to-downpipe and flange bolts.
  • Screwdrivers: Flathead and Phillips (size #2).
  • Pliers: Needle-nose and slip-joint for hose clamps and electrical connectors.
  • Ratchet and extensions: 3/8″ and 1/2″ drives with universal joint for tight spaces.
  • Jack and jack stands: Hydraulic floor jack and pair of sturdy stands rated for your vehicle weight.
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40 Specialist or PB Blaster): Essential for rusted exhaust fasteners.
  • Shop towels and brake cleaner: For cleaning gasket surfaces and oil spills.
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves: Protect eyes from debris and hands from heat/abrasion.
  • Optional but recommended: O2 sensor socket (22mm), heat gun (for stubborn silicone hoses), vacuum pump for testing boost leaks post-install.

Preparation: Safety First

Park the vehicle on a level concrete surface and allow the engine to cool completely (several hours or overnight). Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental sparking or sensor damage. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack — always use jack stands rated for the vehicle’s weight. Wear safety glasses and gloves throughout. Review the APR instructions that came with your parts; some details may vary slightly by model year or vehicle variant. If your vehicle has an aftermarket alarm or anti-theft system, consult the manual before disconnecting the battery.

Section 1: Removing the Stock Intake

Step 1 – Disconnect and Label

Locate the airbox on the driver’s side (most 2.7T applications). Disconnect the mass airflow (MAF) sensor electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling gently. Do not force the connector. Use a small flathead screwdriver if needed to release the locking tab. Also disconnect any secondary air injection hoses or breather tubes attached to the airbox. Label each connection with masking tape to avoid confusion during reassembly.

Step 2 – Loosen Clamps and Bolts

Using a 8mm or 10mm socket, loosen the clamp connecting the intake hose from the airbox to the throttle body. There may be a second clamp at the turbo inlet. Do not fully remove clamps yet. Next, unbolt the airbox lower mounting points (usually 10mm bolts) and remove any screws securing the airbox lid if it’s a two-piece design.

Step 3 – Remove the Airbox

Carefully lift the airbox and intake hose assembly out of the engine bay. Rotate and tilt as needed to clear the engine cover and coolant expansion tank. If the MAF sensor is still attached to the airbox, you may need to remove it with a T20 Torx screwdriver. Set the sensor aside in a clean, dry place. Inspect the rubber grommets and replace if damaged.

Pro Tip: If the rubber intake hose is stuck, use a heat gun on low to soften the rubber. Avoid using metal tools to pry; use a plastic trim tool to prevent damage.

Section 2: Installing APR’s 2.7T Intake

Step 1 – Transfer Components

Remove the APR intake from its packaging. It typically includes a large filter, silicone couplers, aluminum tubing, clamps, and mounting brackets. Install the MAF sensor onto the APR intake pipe using the supplied screws or existing hardwares. Ensure the sensor orientation matches the arrow indicating airflow direction (consult APR instructions). Do not overtighten; use a T20 Torx bit and snug only.

Step 2 – Position and Connect

Fit the intake pipe into the engine bay, routing it away from hot engine components and moving parts. Connect the silicone coupler to the throttle body inlet and secure with a band clamp. Do not fully tighten until all connections are aligned. Attach the air filter to the intake pipe, often with an additional bracket that secures to the vehicle’s chassis or fender well. Many APR intakes come with a carbon fiber or heat shield; install this shield first (following APR’s specific mounting instructions) before the intake tube. Position the filter in the lower grille area or behind the bumper support for cold air.

Step 3 – Secure All Connections

Tighten all clamps to the manufacturer’s specified torque (usually 2–4 in-lb for silicone coupler clamps – do not overtighten, as you can damage the silicone). Reconnect the MAF sensor plug and any secondary hoses. Double-check that no wires or hoses are pinched and that the intake tube has at least 1 inch of clearance from the hood, radiator fan, and engine mounts. Start the engine briefly to listen for air leaks and confirm proper idle before proceeding.

Section 3: Removing the Stock Downpipe

Note: The downpipe removal requires access underneath the vehicle. Perform this section with the vehicle safely raised and supported on jack stands. Work on a slight incline if possible to aid oil drainage from the turbo.

Step 1 – Apply Penetrating Oil

Spray all exhaust flange bolts (turbo-downpipe and downpipe-catalytic converter) with penetrating oil. Let it soak for 15–20 minutes while preparing the work area. This step is critical on vehicles driven in snow/salt climates.

Step 2 – Disconnect Oxygen Sensors

Locate the oxygen sensors mounted in the downpipe. Disconnect the electrical connectors (typically a grey and a black connector) from the engine harness. Use a 22mm oxygen sensor socket to carefully unscrew the sensors from the downpipe. Do not drop the sensors – tape them out of the way on a heat shield. If the sensors are seized, reapply penetrating oil and use a breaker bar with caution. Replace with new sensors if the downpipe includes pre-installed bungs or if the old sensors are high-mileage.

Step 3 – Unbolt and Remove Heat Shields

Remove the lower engine cover/splash shield (if equipped). Then, using a 13mm or 16mm socket, remove the bolts securing the heat shields over the downpipe and turbo area. Keep the bolts organized. In some vehicles, the downpipe brace or support bracket must also be unbolted.

Step 4 – Unbolt Downpipe Flanges

Using a 14mm or 16mm wrench (and an extension with universal joint for the top nuts), loosen the four bolts connecting the downpipe to the turbocharger exhaust housing. Be prepared for some resistance; use a breaker bar if necessary. After the turbo flange bolts are removed, unbolt the downpipe from the exhaust system (flex joint or catalytic converter connection). Slide the downpipe off the turbo studs and lower it out from under the vehicle. You may need to rotate it to clear the steering rack or driveshaft. Inspect the turbo exhaust flange gasket – replace if it is damaged or crushed.

Section 4: Installing APR’s Downpipe

Step 1 – Prepare the Surfaces

Clean the turbo exhaust flange mating surface with brake cleaner and a shop towel to remove any carbon or old gasket material. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the turbo stud threads (copper-based preferred for high heat). Position the new gasket supplied with the APR downpipe (if included; otherwise reuse the OEM gasket if in excellent condition).

Step 2 – Lift the Downpipe into Position

Carefully maneuver the APR downpipe up from below. Align the flange with the turbo studs. It may require slight wiggling to clear the frame and transmission lines. Install the four nuts (and any supplied locking washers) onto the studs – hand tighten only at first to ensure alignment. Then, connect the downpipe to the exhaust system using the supplied clamp or v-band, following APR’s torque specification for that joint.

Step 3 – Torque Fasteners in Sequence

Using a torque wrench, tighten the turbo-downpipe nuts in a crisscross pattern to the specification provided by APR (typically 18–22 ft-lb for M8 studs). Then tighten the exhaust connection to spec (often 35–40 ft-lb). Reinstall all heat shields, torquing their bolts to factory specs (approximately 8–10 ft-lb). Reconnect the oxygen sensors – if the APR downpipe has relocated bungs, verify the sensors reach without stretching the wiring. Use the supplied extended harness (if required) to avoid tension.

Step 4 – Clearance Check

Before lowering the vehicle, check for any metal-on-metal contact: rotate the steering wheel lock-to-lock and spin the driveshaft or axles by hand (if accessible). Ensure the downpipe does not contact the subframe, chassis, or coolant lines. Start the engine and listen for rattles or exhaust leaks. Tighten any loose connections immediately.

Post-Installation Checks and Final Steps

  • Reconnect battery: Attach the negative terminal and tighten. Reset the ECU by driving the car for 10–15 minutes (or follow tune provider instructions).
  • Inspect for leaks: With the engine running, feel around all intake couplers and exhaust flanges for air or gas using your hand (carefully, avoid hot surfaces). Soapy water sprayed on intake connections will reveal bubbles if there’s a leak.
  • Check fault codes: If you have an OBD2 scanner, check for any error codes, especially related to MAF, O2 sensors, or catalyst efficiency. Some codes may clear after a drive cycle.
  • Test drive: Perform a short test drive, gradually increasing load. Listen for unusual noises. Monitor boost pressure if you have a gauge. The APR intake should produce a pronounced induction sound, and the downpipe will deepen the exhaust note.
  • Retorque: After the first heat cycle (engine fully hot then cooled), recheck all intake clamps and downpipe bolts. Retorque if necessary, as gaskets can compress slightly.
  • Tuning: Strongly recommended – Install a Stage 2 ECU tune from APR or another reputable tuner to take full advantage of the increased airflow and achieve the targeted 60+ horsepower gain. Without a tune, the car may run lean or trigger a check engine light due to reduced catalyst efficiency. Many tuners offer matched software that adjusts fueling, boost targets, and timing maps.

Maintenance Tips Moving Forward

The APR intake filter should be cleaned and re-oiled every 20,000–30,000 miles (or more often in dusty conditions). Use the APR cleaning kit and allow proper drying time before reinstallation. The downpipe and exhaust system may emit a stronger smell (especially if catless); this is normal. Ensure all O2 sensor bungs are sealed to prevent exhaust leaks. Inspect the intake couplers and clamps annually for cracks or loosening. With proper care, these parts will last for many years and tens of thousands of miles of high-performance driving.

Conclusion

Installing APR’s 2.7T intake and downpipe is one of the most rewarding upgrades for owners seeking substantial horsepower gains and a more responsive engine. By following this detailed guide, you can complete the installation with confidence, avoid common pitfalls, and ensure a leak-free setup that performs reliably. The 60+ horsepower boost you’ll achieve – especially with matching ECU calibration – transforms the driving experience, from quicker spool to a more aggressive exhaust note. Take your time, use the correct tools, and enjoy the process. For further support, refer to APR’s official installation manual, join enthusiast forums like Audizine or VWVortex, and consider professional tuning for maximum results.

External Resources: