Introduction: Why the Jackson Racing Supercharger for the S2000 AP2?

The Honda S2000 AP2, powered by the 2.2L F22C1 engine, stands as a benchmark for naturally aspirated performance. While it willingly revs to 8,200 RPM, the reality is that extracting peak power from the F22C requires aggressive cam profiles that sacrifice low-end torque for top-end horsepower. For owners looking to dramatically increase usable power without sacrificing the driving dynamics that make the S2000 special, forced induction is the answer. The Jackson Racing Supercharger (JRSC) kit has become the gold standard for street-driven AP2s. It is meticulously engineered, retains CARB approval for street legality, and, most importantly, preserves the linear throttle response that defines the S2000 driving experience.

The gains are substantial. A standard Jackson Racing supercharger kit on a stock AP2 will deliver between 240 to 260 wheel horsepower with a flat torque curve that pulls strongly from 3,500 RPM to redline. With the intercooled high-boost upgrade, owners can safely see 300+ wheel horsepower. The kit uses an Eaton Roots-type supercharger, which provides instant boost right off idle. This results in a car that drives with the displacement of a larger V6 without the peakiness of a large turbo. This guide is written for the advanced DIY mechanic. It provides a comprehensive technical walkthrough covering tool preparation, mechanical installation, fuel system upgrades, engine management, and critical first-start procedures. Installing a supercharger is a rewarding project, but it demands patience, mechanical aptitude, and strict adherence to details.

1. Tools, Materials, and Pre-Installation Preparation

Do not start this project without verifying you have all the necessary tools and the full kit contents. A weekend project can quickly turn into a month-long ordeal waiting for a missing gasket or the correct socket size. The Jackson Racing kit is comprehensive, but preparation is key.

Essential Tool List

  • Metric Socket Set: 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch drive sets from 6mm to 19mm. A set of deep sockets is necessary for spark plugs and studs.
  • Torque Wrenches: You need two. A 3/8-inch drive torque wrench for lower torque ranges (10-80 ft-lbs) and a 1/2-inch drive for higher torque applications like the crank bolt (if required) and lower bracket bolts.
  • Flare Nut Wrenches: Essential for loosening fuel lines without rounding off the fittings. 10mm and 12mm are common sizes.
  • Trim Panel Tools: A set of plastic pry tools will save your bumper and interior trim from scratches during disassembly.
  • Jack and Jack Stands: You will need to get the car in the air safely. Do not rely on the factory scissor jack. Use four quality jack stands.
  • Coolant Funnel and Vacuum Filler: A vacuum coolant filler tool (like a UView Airlift) is highly recommended for bleeding the cooling system. The AP2 is notoriously difficult to completely bleed of air.
  • Pick Set and Mirror: For reaching stubborn vacuum hoses and inspecting hidden clamps.

Required Fluids and Consumables

  • Engine Oil: 5W-40 synthetic oil. Amsoil, Mobil 1, or Motul are preferred for forced induction. You will need approximately 5.5 quarts.
  • Coolant: Honda Type 2 Antifreeze. Do not use generic green coolant. The aluminum components in the F22C require the silicate-free formulation of Honda coolant.
  • Thread Locker: Loctite 242 (blue). Many fasteners require this to prevent them from backing out under vibration.
  • Anti-Seize Compound: For spark plug threads and any exhaust-related fasteners.
  • Supercharger Oil: The kit typically comes with the correct oil for the Eaton M62 or TVS R900 unit. Verify you have it before installation.

Inspecting the Jackson Racing Kit

Open the kit and verify all components against the included packing list. Pay close attention to the supercharger unit, the intake manifold adapter, the fuel injectors (typically 550cc or larger), and the wiring harness. Check the belt for any signs of damage. Confirm the pulley size on the supercharger matches the intended boost level. Standard pulleys are usually around 3.8 inches. A smaller pulley increases boost but requires an intercooler and a higher octane fuel tune.

2. Engine Bay Disassembly and Preparation

With your workspace clean and your tools organized, you can begin disassembling the front of the engine bay. The F22C is a compact engine, but packaging the supercharger requires removing several key components.

Battery, Bumper, and Cooling System

Start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. For the intercooled version of the kit, the front bumper needs to come off to mount the heat exchanger. Remove the front bumper cover, the radiator support brackets, and the factory air intake ducting. Drain the coolant using the petcock on the bottom of the radiator and the drain bolt on the engine block (located on the driver's side near the oil filter). Removing the radiator fan shroud assembly will provide much-needed clearance for the intercooler piping and supercharger installation.

Intake Manifold and Throttle Body Removal

The factory intake manifold must be removed to install the supercharger mounting bracket and adapter plate. Disconnect the vacuum lines to the intake manifold carefully. Label them with tape or a marker. Common lines include the brake booster line, the fuel pressure regulator line, and the evaporative emissions line. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body. Remove the four bolts holding the intake manifold to the cylinder head. You may need to wiggle the manifold to break the seal of the gasket. With the manifold removed, stuff a clean rag into the intake ports of the cylinder head to prevent any debris from falling into the engine.

With the intake manifold removed, you have direct access to the intake valves. Direct injection engines do not suffer from this issue, but port-injected engines like the F22C build up carbon deposits on the back of the intake valves. This is an excellent time to clean the valves using a walnut blaster or a chemical cleaner like CRC GDI IVD. Additionally, replace the spark plugs. For a supercharged application, you should gap the plugs tighter than factory. A gap of 0.024 to 0.026 inches is safe for moderate boost levels. Use NGK or Denso plugs one step colder than stock (NGK BKR7E or equivalent).

3. Jackson Racing Supercharger Bracket and Head Unit Installation

This is the core of the mechanical installation. The supercharger mounting system replaces the factory intake manifold and provides a rigid platform for the blower.

Lower and Upper Bracket Mounting

Clean the sealing surfaces of the cylinder head thoroughly. Install the provided studs into the cylinder head using Loctite. Hand tighten them initially. Mount the lower supercharger bracket to these studs. The lower bracket supports the weight of the supercharger and must be torqued to the manufacturer's specification (typically 80 ft-lbs). Next, install the upper bracket which houses the tensioner pulley. Do not fully tighten the upper bracket bolts until you have checked the belt alignment.

Intake Manifold Adapter and Supercharger Mounting

The Jackson Racing kit replaces the factory plastic intake manifold with a cast aluminum adapter that routes air from the supercharger directly into the cylinder head. Install the new gasket provided in the kit onto the cylinder head. Mount the adapter plate and torque the nuts to 16 ft-lbs. Apply a thin layer of the supplied grease to the supercharger coupling. Carefully lower the Eaton M62 or TVS R900 supercharger onto the adapter plate. The blower should sit flush on the adapter. Secure it with the provided bolts and washers.

Belt Routing and Tensioning

The supercharger typically has a dedicated drive belt that runs off a pulley on the crankshaft vibration damper. Install the new serpentine belt following the diagram in the Jackson Racing manual. Route the belt around the supercharger pulley, the tensioner pulley, and the idler pulley. Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet on the tensioner to relieve tension and slip the belt over the last pulley. Rotate the engine by hand using a socket on the crank pulley bolt to ensure the belt tracks correctly and does not walk off the pulleys.

4. Fuel System Upgrades and ECU Tuning

Adding boost increases the air density entering the engine significantly. The stock fuel system on the S2000 cannot compensate for this additional air. Upgraded fuel injectors and proper engine management are non-negotiable for this installation.

Injector Installation

The Jackson Racing kit typically includes 550cc or 650cc fuel injectors. These replace the factory 280cc or 310cc injectors. Remove the fuel rail unbolting it from the stock intake manifold. Remove the old injectors and install the new ones, taking care to lubricate the O-rings with a small amount of engine oil or Vaseline to prevent them from tearing. Reinstall the fuel rail. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 7-8 ft-lbs. Overtightening can warp the rail or crack the injector bodies.

Wiring and Vacuum Lines

Install the supplied wiring harness extension. This harness extends the injector connectors, the throttle position sensor, and the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor so they reach the relocated components. Route the harness cleanly away from heat sources and moving parts. Connect the boost reference line from the supercharger discharge to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The FPR needs to see boost pressure to raise the fuel pressure accordingly.

Hondata FlashPro and Base Tune

The S2000 ECU requires a reflash or a standalone piggyback system to run forced induction. The Jackson Racing kit is designed to work with the Hondata FlashPro. Do not attempt to start the engine without loading the base map. Connect the FlashPro to the OBD-II port and your laptop. Load the Jackson Racing base calibration provided with the kit or available on the Hondata website. This base map sets the fuel injector scaling, changes the ignition timing maps to prevent detonation, and adjusts the VTEC engagement point to optimize the power curve.

Critical Warning: Running the engine with the stock tune after installing a supercharger will cause detonation and severe engine damage within minutes. The base map is a safety net, but professional dyno tuning is required to unlock the full potential safely.

5. Intercooler, Charge Pipes, and Heat Exchanger

The high-boost version of the Jackson Racing kit includes an air-to-water intercooler system. This is a closed-loop system that uses coolant flowing through a brick-style intercooler mounted between the supercharger and the intake manifold adapter, and a heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator.

Mounting the Heat Exchanger

Mount the heat exchanger to the front core support using the provided brackets. This unit is essentially a small radiator. Position it so it receives maximum airflow from the bumper opening. Secure it tightly to prevent it from moving around during hard driving.

Intercooler Unit and Pump

The intercooler brick fits between the supercharger and the engine. Install the gaskets on both sides of the intercooler and bolt it into place. Mount the electric water pump to a solid chassis point in the engine bay. Run the coolant hoses from the pump to the intercooler brick and the heat exchanger. Fill the system with a mixture of distilled water and coolant or a dedicated water wetter solution. Bleed the air from the intercooler system by running the pump with the cap off until no bubbles emerge.

Charge Pipes and Bypass Valve

Connect the charge pipes from the supercharger outlet to the throttle body using the supplied silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. The Jackson Racing kit includes a bypass valve that recirculates boost pressure back into the intake tract when the throttle is closed. Route the vacuum line from the bypass valve to a manifold vacuum source. This valve is critical for preventing compressor surge and prolonging the life of the supercharger.

6. Final Reassembly and Fluid Fill

With the supercharger, fuel system, and intercooler installed, you can begin putting the car back together. This stage requires careful attention to detail.

Reinstalling Components

Reinstall the radiator and fan shroud. Ensure the fans do not contact the intercooler piping. Reconnect the intake system between the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the supercharger inlet. The kit often relocates the MAF sensor and air filter to a position behind the driver’s side headlight. Secure all air intake connections tightly to prevent unmetered air from entering the engine. Reconnect the throttle cable and adjust it to ensure the throttle plate fully closes when the pedal is released.

Fluid Fill

Fill the engine oil with 5.5 quarts of quality synthetic 5W-40. Fill the cooling system using a vacuum filler tool. If you do not have a vacuum filler, you must carefully bleed the system by filling the radiator, running the engine with the heater on full blast, and squeezing the lower radiator hose to release trapped air. Top off the intercooler coolant reservoir with distilled water and a bottle of water wetter.

Pre-Start Inspection

Walk around the engine bay with a bright light. Inspect every hose clamp, every electrical connector, and every bolt you touched. Verify the belt is properly seated on all pulleys. Check that the throttle linkage moves freely and returns to idle. Double check that you have oil and coolant in the engine. This inspection is your last chance to catch a mistake before the engine runs.

7. First Start, Break-In, and Dyno Tuning Protocol

This is the moment of truth. A methodical first-start procedure is essential for the longevity of the supercharger and the engine.

First Start Procedure

  1. Disable the fuel pump by pulling the fuel pump fuse or relay.
  2. Crank the engine for ten-second intervals until the oil pressure gauge registers or the oil light goes out. This pre-lubes the bearings and the supercharger.
  3. Reinstall the fuel pump fuse.
  4. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position for five seconds to prime the fuel system.
  5. Start the engine. It may take a few seconds to fire. Listen carefully for any knocking, rattling, or air leaks.
  6. Once the engine starts, let it idle. Check for oil leaks at the supercharger and valve cover. Check for coolant leaks at the heater hoses and intercooler pump.

Idle Break-In Checks

Let the engine reach full operating temperature (around 190°F). Monitor the coolant temperature gauge fan switch cycles. The fans should come on around 200°F and go off around 192°F. Verify the supercharger is not making any metallic grinding noises. A slight whine is normal, especially from the Eaton M62, but rough noises indicate a problem. Check the fuel trims with the Hondata FlashPro software. The base map should keep the short-term fuel trims within single digits.

Professional Dyno Tuning

The base map provided by Jackson Racing is conservative and safe. To fully exploit the supercharger, you need a professional dyno tune. Find a tuner experienced with the S2000 and Hondata FlashPro. A reputable forced induction tuning shop will dial in the air-fuel ratio, ignition timing, and VTEC crossover. The target air-fuel ratio for a supercharged F22C is typically around 11.5:1 for safety. Expect to see a clean, flat torque curve that makes the car feel significantly faster everywhere in the rev range.

8. Conclusion: The Transformed Driving Experience

Driving a supercharged S2000 is a revelation. The car retains its high-revving character, but the torque in the low and mid-range transforms how the car drives on public roads. You no longer have to downshift to third gear to pass a car on the highway. The engine pulls from 2,500 RPM with authority and builds steam smoothly to the 8,200 RPM fuel cut. The Jackson Racing kit is not a cheap modification, but it is one of the most well-rounded and reliable forced induction systems available for the AP2.

This installation is a significant undertaking, but by following this guide and respecting the mechanical and tuning requirements, you will end up with a reliable, powerful, and immensely enjoyable vehicle. For technical support and community knowledge, the S2Ki forced induction forum is an invaluable resource. For parts and upgrades, shops like Science of Speed offer a wide range of supporting modifications. The effort required to install the supercharger is directly rewarded by the smile on your face every time you press the throttle.