Why Upgrade Your Diesel Exhaust

Upgrading to an MBRP diesel exhaust system is one of the most effective ways to unlock the true potential of your truck or SUV. Modern diesel engines are significantly restricted from the factory to meet quiet noise regulations and strict emissions standards. Replacing the factory exhaust with a precision-engineered system from MBRP reduces backpressure, lowers exhaust gas temperatures (EGTs), and dramatically improves throttle response. The result is a truck that feels stronger, runs more efficiently, and sounds substantially better. MBRP has been a leader in the performance exhaust industry for decades, known for using premium materials like T409 and T304 stainless steel and precision mandrel bending. This guide provides a professional, step-by-step walkthrough for installing your new MBRP system safely and correctly the first time.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Before lifting the truck, gather all required tools and supplies. Running to the hardware store mid-installation is not only frustrating but can also lead to mistakes if you rush. The following list covers a standard turbo-back or DPF-back installation on most diesel pickup trucks. Specific vehicle models may have unique requirements, so always cross-reference your MBRP instruction manual.

  • MBRP Diesel Exhaust System Kit – Verify all components are present against the packing list.
  • Socket Set (Metric and SAE) – A 3/8” and 1/2” drive set with extensions and swivels is highly recommended.
  • Wrench Set – Combination wrenches for tight spaces near the transmission and transfer case.
  • Torque Wrench (ft-lb and in-lb) – Essential for tightening band clamps and exhaust manifold bolts to factory specifications.
  • Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster or Kroil) – Vital for breaking rusted bolts and hangers free without snapping them.
  • Cutting Tool (Sawzall / Reciprocating Saw) – Required if the old exhaust needs to be cut out, particularly if it is rusted into one solid piece.
  • Rubber Mallet or Dead-Blow Hammer – Helps align pipes without damaging the stainless steel finish.
  • Jack and Jack Stands (or Vehicle Lift) – Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use rated jack stands on a solid, level surface.
  • Safety Glasses and Heavy-Duty Gloves – Protect yourself from sharp metal edges, rust flakes, and hot exhaust components.
  • Spring Clamps or Vice Grips – Useful for holding clamps in place while you align pipes.
  • Wire Brush and Scotch-Brite Pad – For cleaning old flanges and sensor bungs.
  • Anti-Seize Compound – Apply to threads of bolts and sensors to prevent future corrosion.

Preparation and Safety First

Preparation is the difference between a clean installation and a headache. Park the vehicle on a flat, paved surface. Allow the engine to cool completely if it has been running; exhaust components can reach over 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery to prevent any electrical shorts, particularly when working near sensors.

Spray penetrating oil on all exhaust hangers, clamps, and bolts connecting the downpipe to the turbo outlet. Allow the oil to soak for 10-15 minutes. This step is critical for diesel trucks driven in winter climates where road salt accelerates corrosion. Take this time to lay out your new MBRP system components and identify each section using the diagram provided in the kit.

Step 1: Remove the Factory Exhaust System

With the vehicle safely lifted and supported on jack stands, start at the rear of the truck. Use your socket set to remove the bolts at the tailpipe hanger, then work your way forward toward the downpipe. On many modern diesel trucks, the factory exhaust is heavy and awkwardly shaped. Have a helper support longer sections to prevent the pipe from bending and binding up.

Dealing with Rust and Seized Fasteners

If bolts snap or stubborn hanger isolators will not budge, do not force them. Heat is your best friend here. Using a propane or MAP gas torch, carefully heat the area around the seized nut or bolt. Avoid heating directly near fuel lines or brake lines. Once the metal expands, the penetrating oil works deeper into the threads. If removing the downpipe from the turbo, be exceptionally careful with the turbine housing. Soak the bolts multiple times before attempting to turn them. Using six-point sockets over twelve-point sockets reduces the chance of rounding off rusted bolt heads.

Removing Exhaust Sensors

Before fully dropping the exhaust, unplug any oxygen sensors (O2), exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensors, or NOx sensors. These are expensive to replace. Use the correct oxygen sensor socket or a deep-well socket to carefully unscrew them from the factory pipe. Immediately apply anti-seize to the threads of the sensors and set them aside in a safe location. Keep track of which sensor came from which bung, as they often have different thread sizes or insertion depths.

Step 2: Prepare and Dry Fit the MBRP System

MBRP exhaust systems are precision fit, but every truck chassis can have slight manufacturing variances. Before installing the final clamps, perform a dry fit. Hang the downpipe, intermediate pipes, muffler section (if equipped), and tailpipe using the provided hangers. Place the band clamps loosely around the pipes so the sections can be adjusted.

Slide the pipes together, ensuring the alignment tabs or slip-fit connections are fully seated. Check critical clearance points:

  • Brake lines and fuel lines near the frame rail.
  • Transmission lines and transfer case linkage.
  • Leaf spring mounts and shock absorbers.
  • Spare tire location.

Adjust the pipe sections so there is at least 1/2 inch of clearance around all moving or hot components. A common mistake is tightening everything at the back first, only to find the downpipe is crooked. Leave all clamps loose until the entire system is hanging in its natural position.

Step 3: Install the New MBRP Exhaust System

Once the dry fit confirms perfect alignment, begin the final installation. Start at the turbo outlet and work backward. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the turbo downpipe bolts. Torque these bolts to the factory specifications listed in your MBRP manual. Improper torque here can lead to exhaust leaks or broken studs.

Connecting the Downpipe and Intermediate Sections

MBRP uses high-quality band clamps that provide a leak-free seal without crushing the pipe. Do not overtighten these clamps. Snug them down evenly, alternating sides, until the clamp is tight, but still allows for rotation of the pipe. Overtightening can distort the piping or strip the clamp hardware. Work your way back, connecting each section and tightening the clamps just enough to hold the weight.

If you are installing a DPF-back system on a late-model diesel, ensure the connection at the DPF outlet is secure. A leak here will cause soot buildup and potential error codes. Use the supplied gasket and tighten the V-band clamp or bolts evenly.

Muffler and Tailpipe Positioning

Muffler sections (whether a traditional chambered muffler or a performance resonator) should be oriented so the inlet and outlet align naturally with the exhaust piping. Rotate the muffler body slightly if needed to maximize ground clearance. The tailpipe should exit cleanly behind the rear wheel or straight out the back, depending on your kit. Double-check the tip alignment from the side of the truck. A crooked exhaust tip ruins the professional look of an otherwise excellent upgrade.

Step 4: Final Torquing and Alignment Verification

With all pipes connected and the system hanging freely, go back and fully tighten every band clamp. Start from the front and work your way to the rear. Torque band clamps to the specifications provided in the MBRP instructions. Typically, this requires a 1/2” drive socket and a firm pull, but avoid using impact guns on band clamps, as this can easily strip the threads or damage the clamp band.

Reinstall any exhaust sensors you removed. Coat the threads of EGT and O2 sensors with anti-seize. Torque them just enough to be snug. Over-tightening sensors into thin-walled stainless steel bungs can crack the bung and cause a leak.

After all clamps and hardware are torqued, perform a final clearance check. Have a helper shake the tailpipe while you watch for contact with the frame, suspension components, or body panels. Any contact during engine movement (especially on high-torque diesel trucks) will result in annoying rattles and vibration transfer into the cab.

Sound and Performance Demonstration

Start the engine and let it idle. Walk around the rear of the truck and listen for any high-pitched whistling sounds near the clamps that indicate an exhaust leak. A small leak can sound much worse than a well-sealed system. If you hear a tick or hiss, inspect the connection points. You may need to loosen a clamp, realign the pipe, and retighten it.

The sound of an MBRP system is distinct. At idle, you will hear a deeper, rolling rumble compared to the stock muffled sound. Under acceleration, the turbo whistle becomes more pronounced, and the exhaust note builds to an aggressive, controlled roar. During highway cruising, MBRP systems are engineered to minimize cab drone, keeping the interior comfortable for daily driving.

Note: If you notice an unusually loud, raspy sound or excessive vibration, recheck your installation for leaks or contact points. A properly installed MBRP system should produce a clean, deep diesel tone without metallic rattles.

Post-Installation Checks and ECM Reset

After the initial startup, allow the engine to reach operating temperature. Check the underside for any smoke or soot near the clamps. A small amount of smoke during warm-up can be normal as handling oils burn off the stainless steel. If you see continuous smoke from a joint, that clamp needs further tightening.

Some diesel tuners and enthusiasts recommend resetting the ECU (Engine Control Unit) after an exhaust upgrade to allow the engine to relearn its fuel and boost parameters with the reduced backpressure. Disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes typically resets the adaptive learning. On newer trucks, this may require a specific drive cycle. Consult your vehicle service manual or tuner instructions.

Take the truck for a moderate test drive. Vary the engine speed and listen for changes in the exhaust note. Accelerate gently to feel the improved throttle response. You should notice the turbo spools faster and the engine pulls stronger through the mid-range. Monitor your factory gauges or aftermarket monitor for EGTs; you will likely see lower temperatures under load thanks to the increased flow.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Exhaust Leaks at Clamps: The number one cause of leaks is improper slip-fit engagement. Ensure the pipes are pushed together fully before tightening the clamp. If a pipe is only partially seated, the clamp will seal against the thin edge of the pipe rather than the full diameter.

Check Engine Light (CEL): If you are driving a 2010 or newer diesel truck (equipped with DPF and SCR systems) and have removed the DPF or catalytic converter, you will require a custom tuner to delete the associated emissions systems. Installing a DPF-back system (which retains the factory DPF) should not trigger a CEL. A turbo-back system with a DPF delete pipe will require proper tuning.

Vibration or Drone: If you experience excessive vibration at certain RPMs, check the clearance around the transmission crossmember and cab mounts. Sometimes a rubber isolator is stretched too tight, transferring vibration. Replacing a hanger bushing or adjusting pipe length slightly can resolve this. MBRP systems are designed to minimize drone, but a straight-piped exhaust will naturally have more interior resonance than a system with a muffler.

Maintaining Your MBRP Exhaust

Stainless steel exhaust systems are resistant to corrosion, but they still require basic maintenance. If you drive in salt-heavy winter environments, a periodic rinse under the truck can prevent surface discoloration. Avoid using acidic wheel cleaners or harsh chemicals on the pipes, as these can discolor the stainless steel. High-quality chrome polish or stainless steel cleaner can restore the shine to the exhaust tips. For a matte finish, simply scrub with soapy water and a non-abrasive pad.

Periodically check the band clamp hardware. Heat cycling can cause clamps to loosen slightly over time. A simple re-torque after the first 500 miles is good practice. Inspect the hanger isolators for cracking or wear, and replace them as needed.

Conclusion

Installing an MBRP diesel exhaust system is one of the most rewarding upgrades you can perform on your truck. The combination of improved performance, a commanding sound profile, and high-quality stainless steel construction makes it a top choice for diesel enthusiasts. By following this detailed guide, taking your time with the dry fit, and respecting the torque specifications, you can complete the installation in your own garage with confidence. The result is a vehicle that drives stronger, sounds better, and turns heads wherever it goes. For official fitment guides, exploded diagrams, and specific vehicle notes, always refer to the installation manual included with your MBRP kit.