The APR TTE Turbo Kit represents one of the most comprehensive bolt-on upgrades available for the Honda Civic Type R FK8. Designed to replace the factory turbocharger with a larger, more efficient unit, this kit unlocks significant horsepower and torque gains while maintaining excellent driveability. For FK8 owners who have already addressed supporting modifications such as intake, intercooler, and exhaust, the TTE turbo is the next logical step toward surpassing the 400–450 wheel horsepower mark. This expanded guide provides a detailed, professional walkthrough of the installation process, covering every critical step from preparation to final tuning.

Tools and Materials

Required Tools

  • Socket set — Metric 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm (deep and standard)
  • Torque wrench — Range 10–150 Nm (8–110 ft-lb) for critical fasteners
  • Combination wrenches — 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 22mm (turbo oil/coolant lines)
  • Screwdrivers — Flathead and Phillips, medium and long reach
  • Pliers — Needle-nose, slip-joint, and snap-ring pliers
  • Breaker bar — 1/2-inch drive, 24 inches minimum length
  • Hex/Allen key set — Metric (5mm, 6mm, 8mm) for banjo bolts and clamps
  • Coolant and oil drain pans — Minimum 5-quart capacity
  • Shop towels and brake cleaner — For cleaning mating surfaces
  • Jack and jack stands — High-quality, rated for at least 3 tons

Required Materials

  • APR TTE Turbo Kit (verify includes all OEM replacement gaskets, O-rings, and hardware)
  • New turbo-to-exhaust manifold gasket — Although the kit may include one, a Honda OEM gasket is recommended
  • Coolant — Genuine Honda Type 2 Long Life Coolant (pre-mixed or concentrate)
  • Engine oil — 5W-30 or 0W-30 meeting API SP or SN Plus (5 quarts)
  • Oil feed and drain gaskets — Copper or aluminum washers (often sold separately)
  • Anti-seize compound — For exhaust hardware
  • Threadlocker — Medium strength (blue) for bolt-on brackets
  • Zip ties — Various sizes for re-routing or securing lines

Preparation

Proper preparation reduces the risk of damage and ensures a smooth workflow. Follow these steps before touching any turbo components.

  1. Park on level ground — Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels.
  2. Disconnect the battery — Remove the negative terminal and isolate it with a plastic bag or tape.
  3. Allow full engine cooldown — Ideally wait 4–6 hours or overnight after driving. The turbo, exhaust manifold, and downpipe remain extremely hot.
  4. Raise the vehicle — Use a jack to lift the front end, then support it securely on jack stands placed at the factory lift points. Remove the front wheels for easier access.
  5. Remove the under-engine cover — This plastic panel is held by several 10mm bolts and clips. Set aside.
  6. Drain the coolant — Place a drain pan under the radiator petcock and open carefully. Also drain the engine block drain bolt (located on the passenger side near the transmission) for a more complete drain.
  7. Drain the engine oil — While you have access, drain the oil via the sump plug. Replace the plug with a new crush washer. This step is optional if you recently changed oil, but highly recommended because a new turbo should always be filled with fresh oil.
  8. Inspect the engine bay — Take reference photos of hose routing and electrical connections. Label any connectors you will later disconnect.

Removing the Stock Turbocharger

The factory MHI TD04 turbo sits in a crowded space. Patience and methodical disassembly are key. Proceed in the order below.

Step 1: Remove the Intake System

  • Loosen the clamp connecting the intake pipe to the turbo inlet. Disconnect the MAF sensor and any secondary sensor plugs.
  • Unclip the factory air box from its mounts and remove the entire intake assembly together with the resonator. Set aside in a clean area.

Step 2: Disconnect the Coolant Hoses

  • Using a pick tool, gently pry off the spring clamps on the two coolant lines that attach to the turbo water jacket. Slide them off and let residual coolant drain into a small pan.
  • Cap the lines with rubber vacuum plugs to prevent debris ingress.

Step 3: Remove the Oil Feed and Drain Lines

  • Oil feed line: Use a 17mm wrench on the hard line fitting at the top of the turbo. Unbolt the bracket securing the line to the block. On the engine block side, remove the banjo bolt with a 22mm wrench (support the block side with a backup wrench). Retain the washers if they are in good condition.
  • Oil drain line: The drain is a larger hose connected to the bottom of the turbo with a spring clamp and a separate bolt at the block. Remove the bolt (14mm), then maneuver the rubber hose off.

Step 4: Disconnect the Wastegate Actuator

  • Unclip the wastegate actuator rod from the factory actuator arm. Remove two 10mm bolts holding the actuator bracket to the compressor housing. Disconnect any electrical connectors (typically a boost control solenoid plug).

Step 5: Remove the Downpipe

  • Working from underneath, unbolt the downpipe from the turbo (four 12mm nuts) and from the mid-pipe (two 14mm bolts). Lower the downpipe and set aside. Note: Use penetrating oil on the nuts if they are rusted. Replacing with new OEM nuts is wise.

Step 6: Unbolt the Turbo from the Exhaust Manifold

  • Position a drain pan under the area. Remove the four or six (depending on generation) 12mm nuts securing the turbo to the cast exhaust manifold. There is one hard-to-reach nut near the manifold bracket; a long 12mm swivel socket and extension helps.
  • Carefully wiggle the turbo loose. It may require shifting it forward and upward. Avoid damaging the coolant line banjo bolts that remain on the block.
  • Remove the turbo outlet gasket and discard. Clean the manifold mating surface with a razor blade and brake parts cleaner.

Installing the APR TTE Turbo Kit

The APR TTE kit is designed as a direct replacement, but attention to detail during installation determines long-term reliability.

Step 1: Prepare the New Turbo

  • Unbox the TTE turbo and inspect it for any signs of shipping damage. Verify the compressor wheel spins freely.
  • Install the included wastegate actuator bracket and actuator. Tighten the bracket bolts to 10 Nm (7.4 ft-lb) using threadlocker. Adjust the actuator rod length according to the kit instructions — typically the rod should just slip over the wastegate arm with the arm fully closed.

Step 2: Transfer the Coolant and Oil Fittings

  • Remove the coolant banjo fittings from the old turbo and install them on the new TTE unit using the supplied copper washers. Torque to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lb).
  • Install the oil feed fitting (usually supplied in the kit) into the turbo housing. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and tighten to 20 Nm (14.7 ft-lb).

Step 3: Mount the Turbo to the Manifold

  • Place a new OEM exhaust manifold gasket on the studs.
  • Position the TTE turbo onto the studs. Lubricating the studs with anti-seize makes removal easier in the future.
  • Loosely install the nuts, then tighten in a criss-cross pattern to 32 Nm (23.6 ft-lb) using a torque wrench.

Step 4: Reconnect the Oil and Coolant Lines

  • Oil drain line: Use the original hose if in good condition, or replace with a high-temperature silicone hose. Tighten the block-side fitting to 25 Nm (18.4 ft-lb) and use new gaskets if the kit included them.
  • Oil feed line: Reattach to the turbo with a new crush washer. Torque the banjo bolt to 30 Nm (22.1 ft-lb). Reattach the bracket.
  • Coolant lines: Push the hoses onto the turbo barbs and secure with new spring clamps. Ensure the hoses do not contact the hot side of the turbo.

Step 5: Install the Downpipe and Intake

  • Use a new turbo outlet gasket (APR supplies a high-performance gasket). Bolt the downpipe to the turbo with new nuts and copper anti-seize. Torque to 30 Nm (22.1 ft-lb).
  • Reconnect the intake system: If the kit includes a larger intake pipe or an adapter, install it now. Otherwise, re-use the factory intake pipe. Ensure all clamps are tight and MAF sensor is reconnected.

Final Assembly and First Start

Before Starting

  • Refill coolant: Use Honda Type 2 coolant. Fill the radiator and reservoir. Leave the radiator cap off temporarily to allow air to escape during bleeding.
  • Refill engine oil: Pour 4.5 quarts of fresh oil. Do not overfill.
  • Prime the turbo oil system: Disconnect the fuel pump relay (or fuel pump fuse) to prevent the engine from firing. Crank the engine for 10–15 seconds repeatedly (with 30-second cool-downs between) until the oil pressure gauge shows normal reading. This circulates oil into the new turbo bearings before it sees engine load.
  • Reconnect the fuel pump relay.
  • Check all fasteners: Torque every bolt we touched: wastegate bracket, downpipe, intake clamp, coolant banjos, oil feed banjo. Verify electrical connectors are fully seated.

First Start Procedure

  • Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for any grinding, whistling, or unusual airflow sounds. A new turbo may produce a slight whistle that fades as it beds in. Watch for coolant or oil leaks.
  • Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (coolant temp ~190°F / 88°C). Rev the engine gently to 2000–3000 RPM a few times to circulate oil and confirm wastegate operation.
  • Turn off the engine and bleed the cooling system using the factory procedure (run engine with radiator cap off, add coolant until the level stabilizes, then cap).
  • Inspect for leaks again. Check the turbo drain hose for any signs of oil weeping.
  • After the engine cools, top off the coolant and oil as needed.

Post-Installation Considerations

Installing a larger turbo without recalibrating the ECU is dangerous. The APR TTE kit requires a professional tune — either a custom dyno calibration or a reliable off-the-shelf (OTS) tune from a reputable tuner.

  • ECU Calibration: Contact a tuner like Hondata or Motec specialists. The FK8's stock ECU will not compensate for the increased air flow, leading to knock, lean conditions, and potential engine damage.
  • Boost Control: The factory boost control solenoid may be reused, but many owners upgrade to a MAC (electronic boost controller) for faster response. APR often supplies a boost controller map with their kit.
  • Break-in: Drive conservatively for the first 200–300 miles. Avoid sustained boost above 10 psi. This allows the new turbo bearings to seat and the oil seals to stabilize.
  • Supporting Mods: To fully realize the kit’s potential, ensure you have a high-flow downpipe, suitable intercooler, and fuel system upgrades (larger injectors or HPFP if targeting 450+ whp).

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Seized exhaust nuts: Apply penetrating oil the night before. If they strip, have a nut extractor set ready.
  • Damaged coolant banjo washers: Always use new copper washers. Lapping old ones can cause leaks.
  • Turbo inlet misalignment: The TTE unit’s larger compressor housing may interfere with the hood liner or frame rail. Check clearance before final tightening; you may need to gently massage the battery tray mount with a heat gun.
  • Oil drain kink: The factory drain line can kink if rotated. Ensure the drain line runs downhill without sharp bends.

External Resources and References

For specific torque specifications and the latest kit revision details, refer to the official APR product page: APR TTE Turbo Kit for Civic Type R FK8. Additionally, the CivicX community installation thread offers real-world tips and photos. For tuning, consult Hondata’s official FlashPro page for approved calibration partners.

Conclusion

The APR TTE Turbo Kit transforms the FK8 Civic Type R from a capable hot hatch into a serious track-capable machine. By following this expanded step-by-step guide, you can complete the installation with confidence. That said, the complexity of the job warrants professional assistance if you are not experienced with turbo swaps. A proper tune and attention to every gasket, torque specification, and line routing will reward you with a responsive, powerful, and reliable upgraded turbo system that truly elevates the FK8 driving experience.