Upgrading your Dodge Durango with a Borla cat-back exhaust is one of the most rewarding modifications you can make. Not only does it unlock a deeper, more aggressive exhaust note, but it also reduces backpressure for modest horsepower and torque gains, especially in the mid-to-upper RPM range. Whether you drive a V6 or a HEMI V8, a properly installed Borla system transforms the driving experience. This comprehensive guide walks you through every step of the installation, from choosing the right system to final testing, ensuring a professional-grade result in your own garage.

Why Upgrade to a Borla Cat-Back Exhaust?

Borla is widely regarded as a premium exhaust manufacturer, using T-304 stainless steel (both in the United States) for corrosion resistance and longevity. Their patented “straight-through” muffler design and multi-core technology deliver a distinctive sound without sacrificing flow. For the Dodge Durango, Borla offers three main sound levels:

  • Tour⁠ing – A deep, mellow tone with zero drone; ideal for daily drivers.
  • S⁠-Type – A sportier note with a bit more bark under throttle, but still comfortable on the highway.
  • ATAK – The loudest and most aggressive, designed for maximum performance sound.

All Borla cat-back systems for the Durango include a new intermediate pipe, muffler assembly, and polished stainless steel tips. The systems are direct-fit and come with all necessary hardware, making installation possible for an experienced DIYer.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Before you raise the vehicle, gather everything to avoid mid-install interruptions. A well-prepared workspace saves time and prevents frustration.

Required Tools

  • Metric and SAE socket set (typically 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm)
  • 3/8” or 1/2” drive ratchet and extensions
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb scale)
  • 18mm or 21mm wrench for factory exhaust nuts
  • Lubricant (penetrating oil like WD-40 or PB Blaster)
  • Cutting tool (reciprocating saw with metal blade or angle grinder) – only if the stock exhaust is rusted or welded
  • O2 sensor socket (7/8” or 22mm) if removing rear sensors
  • Jack and two jack stands (minimum 3-ton capacity)
  • Safety glasses, mechanic’s gloves, and hearing protection
  • Copper anti-seize compound (for threads)
  • Shop rags or paper towels

Parts Included with Borla Cat-Back

  • Intermediate pipe (with or without resonator depending on system)
  • Muffler assembly (center or rear section)
  • Tailpipe section with tips
  • Clamps (band-style or lap-joint clamps)
  • Rubber isolators (if needed)
  • Instruction manual with torque specs

Pro tip: If you live in a rust-belt region, buy new exhaust hangers and replacement gaskets. The original hangers can be brittle and may break during removal.

Step 1: Prepare the Dodge Durango

Park your Durango on a flat, level surface. Engage the parking brake firmly and chock the front wheels to prevent rolling. Allow the exhaust to cool completely if the engine has been running – burns from hot pipes are serious.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal (10mm socket) to avoid accidentally shorting any electrical components while working near the O₂ sensors or wiring harness.

If your Durango has a factory tow hitch, check clearance. Some Borla systems route the rear pipe over the axle and may require temporarily loosening the hitch for access. Have a helper or a transmission jack on standby for heavy components.

Step 2: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

Locate the factory jack points: the Durango’s rear subframe has reinforced pinch welds. Place the jack saddle under the differential or the receiver hitch crossmember (if equipped). Raise the rear of the vehicle until you have at least 18 inches of clearance under the bumper.

Place jack stands on the frame rails just ahead of the rear axle. Confirm the stands are locked and the vehicle is stable before sliding under. Give the Durango a gentle shake to verify stability.

Safety note: Never rely solely on a hydraulic jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. The Durango’s curb weight ranges from 4,800 to 5,500 lbs depending on trim.

Step 3: Remove the Stock Exhaust System

This is often the most labor-intensive step due to rust and corrosion. Working from the rear forward, loosen all connections before removing hangers.

Loosen Exhaust Clamps

Spray every bolt and clamp with penetrating oil 15 minutes before starting. Use a socket or wrench to loosen the factory band clamps that connect the muffler to the intermediate pipe and the intermediate pipe to the catalytic converter. If the nuts are seized, apply heat with a propane torch (carefully, away from fuel lines) and reapply oil.

Remove Rubber Hangers

The exhaust hangs from rubber isolators that are attached to metal hanger rods. Lift the exhaust slightly and slide the rubber off the rod using a pry bar or your hands (with gloves). A spray of silicone lubricant helps stubborn hangers release.

Cut the Exhaust (If Necessary)

On older Durangos (2014–2019) or in heavy rust states, the factory muffler and pipe may be one continuous welded piece. In that case, use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to cut the pipe ahead of the muffler and at the rear axle. Always cut away from yourself and wear a face shield. Protect nearby brake lines and fuel tank straps with a heat shield or heavy cloth.

Remove the Stock Muffler and Tailpipe

Once all clamps are loose and hangers are detached, slide the old exhaust out from under the vehicle. If the system is long, tilt the muffler downward and pull it out from the rear. A second person makes this easier. Set the old system aside for recycling or scrap.

Step 4: Prepare the New Borla Exhaust

Unbox the Borla system and lay the components out on a clean tarp. Identify each piece using the instruction diagram. Borla includes a pre-installed flange gasket at the catalytic converter connection; verify it’s undamaged.

Inspect the pipe ends for any burrs or shipping debris. Lightly sand the inside edge of the slip-fit connections with 180-grit sandpaper to ensure a clean seal. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the slip-fit areas – this prevents galling of the stainless steel and makes future disassembly easier.

If your Borla system includes a secondary O₂ sensor bung, verify it matches the factory location. Some Durango trims have the rear O₂ sensor mounted after the secondary catalyst; the Borla pipe will have a plug or a port for relocation.

Step 5: Install the New Exhaust

Assembly is largely the reverse of removal, but precision alignment is critical for preventing leaks and rattles.

Install the Intermediate Pipe

Starting from the front, slide the intermediate pipe into the catalytic converter flange. Hand-tighten the factory spring-loaded bolts or the Borla-supplied clamps. Do not fully tighten yet – leave all connections loose to allow movement for alignment.

Install the Muffler and Tailpipe

Position the muffler assembly (or center muffler) under the vehicle. Attach it to the intermediate pipe using the provided band clamp. Then attach the tailpipe section to the muffler. Insert the rubber isolators onto the hangers. You may need to push the hangers from above to get the rubber fully seated.

Align the Exhaust Tips

With all components loosely connected, adjust the tailpipe so that the tips sit centered in the rear bumper cutouts. The Borla tips should protrude approximately 0.5 to 1 inch beyond the bumper – check the manufacturer’s guideline. Tighten the hangers evenly while maintaining tip position.

After tip alignment, tight the front flange bolts to 35 ft-lb (refer to your specific kit’s spec). Then torque the band clamps to 40–50 ft-lb. Over-tightening can crush the pipe or cause distortion.

Step 6: Check for Leaks and Clearance

Before lowering the vehicle, start the engine briefly (with the rear axle still on stands) and listen for any exhaust leaks. A quick puff of smoke from a connection indicates a leak. You can also use a soapy water spray – bubbles will form at leak points. Tighten the affected clamp and recheck.

Inspect clearance around the spare tire (if equipped), rear differential, and brake lines. The Borla system should have at least 1 inch of clearance from all chassis components and heat-sensitive parts. If the pipe touches the body, loosen the hangers and twist the pipe slightly for clearance.

Step 7: Lower the Vehicle

With the exhaust secured and leak-free, remove the jack stands and lower the Durango to the ground. Double-check the tip alignment from behind the vehicle – the tips should be level and symmetrical. If they appear crooked, loosen the tailpipe clamp and adjust.

Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes. The sound will be slightly louder than normal initially as the system burns off manufacturing oils and the muffler packing breaks in.

Step 8: Test Drive and Listen for Drone

Take the Durango for a 15–20 minute test drive that includes stop-and-go traffic, highway speeds (60–70 mph), and a few wide‑open-throttle pulls. Listen for any buzzing or drone inside the cabin. If the sound is too boomy at cruising speed, check that all hangers are fully seated – a loose hanger can transmit vibration into the chassis.

After the test drive, allow the exhaust to cool and re-torque all clamps. Thermal expansion can cause initial loosening. Do this again after the first 100 miles.

Step 9: Post-Installation Care and Maintenance

Borla’s T-304 stainless steel resists rust but will develop a golden or blue heat tint near the welds over time – this is normal. To keep the tips polished, use a stainless steel cleaner and microfiber cloth after each wash. Avoid abrasive pads that can scratch the mirror finish.

Periodically inspect the rubber isolators for cracks. Replace them every 30,000 miles or if they feel brittle. A loose hanger can cause the exhaust to vibrate against the underbody, creating noise and potential damage.

If you drive in salt-prone areas, consider applying a light coat of anti-seize to all clamp threads annually. This prevents corrosion that could make future removal difficult.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Stubborn Factory Nuts

The catalytic converter flange bolts on the Durango are often seized. Use a 6-point socket and apply steady torque – never use an impact gun on the thin stainless factory nuts, as they can strip. If the bolt turns but the nut won’t come off, cut it with a grinder and replace it with a new stainless nut (M10x1.25).

Drone after Installation

If drone occurs at 1,500–2,000 RPM, the muffler may be too close to the transmission crossmember. Use a large hose clamp or a Borla resonance dampener to decouple the pipe from the frame. Also verify that the rubber hangers are the correct part – aftermarket hanger kits sometimes have different stiffness that changes resonance.

Check Engine Light

If your Durango has a secondary O₂ sensor behind the mid-cat, the Borla system may delete that catalytic converter. On some models this triggers a P0420 code. Use an O₂ sensor spacer (“defouler”) or a performance tune to suppress the code. Borla’s website lists which systems are emissions-legal for your specific Durango year.

Conclusion

Installing a Borla cat-back exhaust on your Dodge Durango is a weekend project that delivers immediate, audible gratification. With the right tools, patience, and this detailed guide, you can achieve a factory-quality installation in your home garage. The result is a deeper exhaust tone, improved throttle response, and a driving character that matches the Durango’s bold personality. Follow the torque specs, align your tips carefully, and take your time on the rusty bolts – the payoff is worth every ounce of effort.

For more detailed specifications on Borla systems for your Durango, visit Borla’s official site or consult the Dodge Durango enthusiast forums for model-specific tips. If you encounter any unusual sounds or leaks after installation, don’t hesitate to reach out to Borla’s technical support – they’re known for excellent customer service.