Table of Contents

Introduction: Why Upgrade to a Borla Exhaust on Your Chevy Colorado?

If you want to unlock more horsepower, a deeper exhaust note, and better throttle response from your Chevy Colorado, swapping the factory exhaust for a Borla system is one of the most effective modifications you can make. Borla has been building high-performance exhausts for decades, and their offerings for the Colorado lineup — from the 2.5L four-cylinder to the 3.6L V6 and even the Duramax diesel — are engineered to reduce backpressure while delivering a signature aggressive tone.

This guide will walk you through the complete installation process, from prepping your vehicle to making final checks. Along the way we’ll cover tool selection, common pitfalls (like rusted hardware), how to position the system for best sound and fitment, and what to expect after you fire up the engine for the first time. Whether you’re a seasoned weekend mechanic or a first-time exhaust swapper, these steps will help you get the job done right and safely.

Tools and Materials: What You’ll Need

Before you lift the truck, gather everything on the list below. Having the right tools on hand will prevent frustrating trips back to the workbench and keep the install moving smoothly.

  • Socket set (metric: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm; standard: 1/2″ to 3/4″)
  • Combination wrench set (same sizes)
  • Breaker bar (for stubborn bolts)
  • Torque wrench (capable of reading up to 50 ft-lbs)
  • Jack and two jack stands (rated for at least 3 tons each)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Penetrating oil (like WD‑40 Specialist or PB Blaster)
  • New Borla cat-back or axle-back exhaust kit (confirm part number for your Colorado model year)
  • Replacement exhaust hangers (rubber isolators) if originals are cracked or stretched
  • Exhaust gasket (if not included with the Borla kit)
  • Rust penetrant and a wire brush
  • Shop rags and a catch pan

Tip: Many Borla kits include new clamps and hangers, but it’s a good idea to have a few extra M8 or M10 flange nuts on hand — factory hardware often corrodes and snaps during removal.

Preparation: Safety and Vehicle Setup

Installing an exhaust is a straightforward job, but working under a vehicle carries real risks. Follow these preparation steps exactly as written.

1. Find Level Ground and Chock the Wheels

Park your Colorado on a flat, hard surface. Engage the parking brake and place chocks behind both rear wheels. If you’re working on a slope, do not proceed — find a level spot.

2. Lift and Support the Vehicle

Position your floor jack under the rear differential and raise the rear of the truck until you can slide jack stands under the frame rails, just behind the rear wheels. Lower the vehicle onto the stands and give it a good shake to confirm stability. The exhaust runs along the passenger side of the transmission tunnel and under the spare tire area, so you want enough clearance to slide under comfortably (12‑18 inches is ideal).

Important: Never rely solely on the jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle’s weight.

3. Spray Penetrating Oil on All Fasteners

The factory exhaust hangers, flange bolts, and clamp nuts on a Colorado are exposed to road salt and heat cycles. Liberally spray each fastener with penetrating oil and let it soak for at least 10 minutes. For severely rusted bolts, apply a second coat and wait 15 more minutes. This step alone will save you from broken studs and stripped heads.

Removing the Stock Exhaust System

With the vehicle safely elevated and the fasteners pre‑treated, you can begin the removal. Work from the rear of the truck forward, as the sections are often overlapped from the factory.

Step 1: Unbolt the Exhaust Flange at the Muffler

On most Colorado models, the intermediate pipe connects to the muffler via a flanged slip-joint with two bolts. Use a socket and breaker bar to loosen these bolts. If they resist, apply more penetrating oil and wait a few minutes. Once loose, remove them by hand and set aside — you may reuse them if the threads are clean, but Borla typically supplies new hardware.

Step 2: Remove the Tailpipe Hangers

The tailpipe section is supported by two or three rubber hanger isolators. Slide a flathead screwdriver between the metal hanger rod and the rubber isolator, then pry the rod out. If the rubber is dried out, cut it off with a utility knife and replace it with the new isolator from the Borla kit. Work carefully to avoid damaging the bracket weld.

Step 3: Drop the Muffler and Intermediate Pipe

Support the muffler with one hand (or a helper) while you unbolt the last hanger at the rear of the muffler. Then lower the entire assembly away from the truck. You may need to wiggle the pipe at the catalytic converter/front flange to break it free. Be ready for residual water or soot to drip out — keep a catch pan underneath.

Step 4: Clean the Mounting Surfaces

With the old exhaust removed, use a wire brush to clean the flanges where the new system will attach. Remove any gasket material, rust flakes, or carbon buildup. A clean surface ensures a leak‑free seal. Inspect the front flange studs or bolts — replace any that are damaged.

Installing the Borla Exhaust System

Borla systems are precision‑bent and often come in two or three sections for easy fitment. Lay out all components on a clean tarp and confirm you have the correct parts for your Colorado’s engine and cab configuration (crew cab vs. extended cab).

Step 1: Install the Intermediate Pipe (if applicable)

Start at the front of the exhaust system. Slide the supplied gasket over the factory downpipe flange (or the catalytic converter flange, depending on your kit). Attach the Borla intermediate pipe using the new bolts and lock washers. Tighten to 30‑35 ft‑lbs — do not over‑torque, or the flanges may warp.

Step 2: Mount the Muffler Section

Slide the muffler assembly’s inlet over the intermediate pipe outlet. Do not tighten the clamp fully yet — leave it loose to allow adjustment of the muffler’s angle and position. Hook the muffler hangers into the rubber isolators. If the isolators are too tight, lubricate them with a drop of dish soap. Position the muffler so that the outlet pipe points squarely toward the rear of the vehicle.

Step 3: Install the Tailpipe and Tip

Attach the tailpipe section to the muffler outlet using the provided band clamp. Again, snug but not final‑tight. Slide the exhaust tip onto the tailpipe (most Borla kits include a polished double‑wall tip) and loosely tighten the tip clamp. Rotate the tip to align it with the rear bumper cutout — a 1/4″ gap all around is ideal. Aim for the tip to be parallel to the ground and centered in the cutout.

Step 4: Align and Tighten Everything

Now work from front to back, tightening all clamps and hanger bolts to the manufacturer’s specs (typically 40‑45 ft‑lbs for the band clamps). Make sure no part of the exhaust contacts the frame, spare tire, or rear sway bar. Borla systems are mandrel‑bent and should clear everything, but double‑check after tightening — a misaligned hanger can cause rattles.

Pro tip: Start the engine briefly (before final torque) and listen for leaks. If you hear a ticking or hissing, tighten the suspect clamp 5‑10 ft‑lbs more. Re‑check clearance after the exhaust heats up and expands.

Post‑Installation Checks and Sound Test

Once the hardware is tight, lower the truck, remove the jack stands, and give everything a final look‑over.

Leak Check

With the engine running and at operating temperature, hold a flashlight near each joint. A small puff of white or gray smoke indicates a leak — retighten that clamp. Alternatively, spray a little soapy water on the joints; bubbles mean exhaust is escaping.

Sound and Vibration

Take the Colorado for a short drive (5‑10 minutes) on a mix of city and highway roads. Listen for droning at cruising RPMs (around 2,000‑2,500). Borla’s “Pro XS” and “S‑Type” mufflers are designed to minimize drone, but improper hanger alignment can transmit vibrations into the cabin. If you notice a buzz, re‑check that no pipe is touching the underbody.

Re‑Torque After 100 Miles

Heat cycles can loosen clamps. After about 100 miles of normal driving, go back under the truck and re‑torque all flanges and band clamps. This small step ensures a lifelong seal.

Performance, Sound, and Benefits: What the Borla Exhaust Delivers

Beyond the straightforward installation, the real value of a Borla exhaust lies in how it transforms the driving experience.

Horsepower and Torque Gains

Borla’s cat‑back systems for the Chevy Colorado typically unlock 8–12 hp and 10–15 lb‑ft of torque at the wheels. The gains come from reduced backpressure — the stock exhaust is baffled and pinched. The Colorado’s 3.6L V6 responds particularly well; the added torque in the 2,500–4,500 rpm range makes highway passing and towing feel more effortless.

Sound Character by Series

Borla offers several exhaust series for the Colorado:

  • Borla Pro XS — A “stealth” option with moderate volume and zero interior drone. Ideal for daily drivers who want more authority without waking the neighbors.
  • Borla S‑Type — The classic Borla sound. Aggressive during hard throttle but civil at cruise. A favorite among enthusiasts.
  • Borla ATAK (if available) — Maximum volume, designed for track days and off‑road events. Expect a deep, raw roar under acceleration.

All Borla systems are made from T‑304 stainless steel and carry a million‑mile warranty.

Improved Exhaust Flow and Catalyst Efficiency

Smoother, larger‑diameter pipes help the engine breathe out more freely, which can also reduce heat buildup around the catalytic converter. Some owners report slightly better fuel economy (1–2 mpg) on highway trips after the ECU relearns the reduced backpressure.

Maintenance Tips for Your Borla Exhaust

To keep your Borla system looking and sounding new, follow these simple practices:

  • Wash the tips regularly. Road salt and brake dust can etch polished stainless steel. Use a mild detergent and a microfiber cloth; avoid abrasive pads.
  • Inspect hangers annually. Rubber isolators wear out after 3–5 years. Replace them if you notice the exhaust sagging or vibrating more than usual.
  • Check clamp torque at oil change intervals. A quick 1‑minute glance under the truck can prevent a loose muffler from rattling.
  • Don’t weld unless necessary. Borla designs its systems to be fully clamp‑on; welding voids the warranty and makes future removal difficult.

Common Installation Challenges (and How to Avoid Them)

Rusted Flange Studs

The factory flange studs at the front of the exhaust are notorious for snapping. If one breaks, drill it out and use a bolt through the flange, or install a helicoil. Prevent this by soaking in penetrating oil the night before you start.

Exhaust Touching the Spare Tire

Some Colorado models have the spare tire directly under the tailpipe path. If the tailpipe hits the tire, loosen the clamp, rotate the pipe slightly toward the passenger side, and retighten. A 1/2″ clearance is sufficient.

Drone at Certain RPMs

If you experience annoying drone around 2,000 rpm, first verify all hangers are secured in the correct isolators. If the issue persists, consider adding a Borla resonator (sold separately) or adjusting the tailpipe angle. Drone is rarer with the Pro XS series but can happen on extended‑cab models due to shorter overall length.

Where to Learn More and Get Help

Before you start the installation, check the official Borla installation guide for your specific Colorado year and engine. For visual walkthroughs, YouTube has several quality videos from enthusiasts who have done this exact swap. Owner forums such as ColoradoFans.com and ChevyColoradoForum.com are excellent resources for troubleshooting and sound clips. Finally, Borla’s official website provides up‑to‑date part numbers and warranty information.

Conclusion

Installing a Borla exhaust on your Chevy Colorado is one of the most satisfying upgrades you can make. The process is well within the reach of any intermediate DIYer, the sound improvement is immediate, and the performance gains are genuine. By following the steps above — from careful preparation and penetrating oil to final alignment and torque — you’ll end up with a system that not only turns heads but also serves reliably for many miles. Grab a friend, set aside an afternoon, and enjoy the transformation.