Introduction

Upgrading the camshaft in your Chevrolet El Camino is one of the most effective ways to unlock significant horsepower gains. A quality aftermarket camshaft, such as those from COMP Cams, can add 70 or more horsepower while improving the engine’s powerband for better street or strip performance. This expanded guide covers every step of the installation process – from selecting the right cam and gathering specialty tools to setting timing, degreeing the cam, and performing a proper break-in. Whether you’re working on a small-block 350 or a big-block 454, these instructions will help you achieve a reliable and powerful result.

Selecting the Right COMP Cams Camshaft

Before you begin, choose a camshaft that matches your El Camino’s intended use – daily driver, weekend cruiser, or track machine. COMP Cams offers several series: the Xtreme Energy™ line delivers broad torque and top-end power for street performance, while the Thumper™ series adds a distinctive idle sound. Use the COMP Cams Camshaft Finder to input your vehicle’s year, engine size, and modifications to get a recommended grind. Pay attention to lobe separation angle (LSA) – a 112–114° LSA works well for street-driven El Caminos, balancing vacuum and power. Also confirm whether your engine uses a hydraulic flat tappet or hydraulic roller cam, as the installation and break-in procedures differ.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand prevents frustration and ensures accurate assembly. Below is a comprehensive list beyond the basics.

  • COMP Cams Camshaft Kit – includes cam, lifters, and often timing chain and springs. Verify kit contents.
  • Socket set (SAE & Metric) – 3/8‑inch and 1/2‑inch sets; common sizes: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 7/16″, 9/16″.
  • Torque wrench – 3/8‑inch and 1/2‑inch, both ft-lb and in-lb ranges.
  • Harmonic balancer puller/installer – required for most Chevy V8s.
  • Timing cover gasket set – one-piece silicone gasket recommended over cork.
  • Intake manifold gasket set – use high-quality brand (Fel‑Pro).
  • Valve cover gaskets – rubber or silicone for better sealing.
  • Camshaft installation lubricant – moly‑based paste for the lobes and distributor gear.
  • Engine break‑in oil – high zinc/phos (such as Driven Racing Oil Break‑In Oil).
  • Pushrod length checker (if replacing pushrods).
  • Dial indicator and magnetic base – for degreeing the cam.
  • Timing chain damper or cam button (if your new cam requires endplay adjustment).
  • Rags, degreaser, and thread locker (medium strength).

Preparation and Safety

Workspace and Vehicle Prep

Work in a clean, well-lit area. Raise the front of the El Camino on jack stands (not just a jack) and support the frame rails. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Drain the coolant and oil – this is a good time to replace both. Remove the hood for easier access, or prop it fully open. Mark the distributor’s rotor position relative to the intake manifold and the #1 spark plug wire location; you’ll need this for re‑timing after cam installation.

Removing Obstructing Components

Begin by removing the air cleaner assembly, throttle cable, and any vacuum lines connected to the carburetor/throttle body. Remove the radiator fan (mechanical or electric) and the radiator shroud if needed. Unbolt the alternator, A/C compressor (without discharging the system – just unbolt and set aside), and power steering pump. Label all bolts and hoses.

Next, remove the intake manifold. For most Chevy V8s, this means unbolting the carburetor or throttle body, then removing the manifold bolts in a crisscross pattern. Lift the manifold with a helper – do not pry between the manifold and heads as it may damage gasket surfaces. Clean the lifter valley and set all pushrods aside in labeled order (they must return to their original locations if reused).

Removing the Original Camshaft

  1. Remove the valve covers and rocker arms. Store rocker arms and pivots in order.
  2. Remove the pushrods – place them in a labeled holder or through a piece of cardboard with cylinder numbers.
  3. Remove the harmonic balancer using a puller. Do not hammer on the balancer – it may damage the crankshaft thrust face.
  4. Remove the timing cover. Scrape the old gasket from the block and cover.
  5. If equipped, remove the timing chain tensioner.
  6. Set the engine at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke for cylinder #1. Align timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets.
  7. Remove the timing chain and sprockets. On most Chevy small‑blocks, the crank sprocket is held by a bolt (18mm, ⅞″) – use a breaker bar and turn counterclockwise while holding the flywheel/flexplate. Keep all bolts.
  8. Remove the camshaft thrust plate or cam button (usually two bolts).
  9. Carefully slide the old camshaft forward out of the block. Rotate it slightly as you pull to avoid damaging the cam bearings. If it sticks, wiggle gently – do not force.

Installing the COMP Cams Camshaft

Pre‑Installation Checks

Thoroughly clean the camshaft bores and oil passages. Compare the new cam’s lobe profiles with the old one – they should appear more aggressive. Inspect the lifters: if using a hydraulic flat tappet, apply moly lube to the bottoms; for a roller cam, use the supplied roller lifter oil. Prime the lifters by submerging them in break‑in oil and compressing the plunger to expel air.

Installation Procedure

  1. Apply COMP Cams camshaft lubricant generously to all lobes, journals, and the distributor drive gear. Do not skip this – it prevents galling during the first start.
  2. Slide the new camshaft into the block carefully, rotating it to align the journals with the bearings. Coat the thrust face with moly lube before seating the thrust plate.
  3. Install the camshaft thrust plate or cam button. If using a cam button, check endplay: install the button and timing cover, then measure endplay with a feeler gauge between the button and cover. Adjust with shims per COMP Cams instructions (typically 0.005–0.020″).
  4. Install the timing set. Align the timing marks so the crankshaft sprocket dot and cam sprocket dot are facing each other (dot‑to‑dot) when the crank is at TDC #1. This ensures correct valve timing. Torque the crank sprocket bolt to the manufacturer’s spec (usually 65–70 ft‑lb for a small‑block).
  5. Install the timing chain – use no slack; if a double‑roller chain, ensure the oil groove points forward.
  6. Install a new timing cover gasket and the cover. Apply a thin bead of silicone at the block/pan seam. Torque bolts in a crisscross pattern to 6–8 ft‑lb.
  7. Install the harmonic balancer using the correct installer tool – never hammer it on. Coat the balancer hub with anti‑seize. Torque the center bolt to spec (240–260 ft‑lb for small‑block, 300‑360 ft‑lb for big‑block).

For maximum power, degree the cam to verify that the intake centerline matches the card supplied with your COMP Cams kit. This involves mounting a dial indicator on a pushrod or on the cam lobe follower, rotating the engine, and reading opening/closing points. Deviation of more than 2° should be corrected using offset cam keys or adjustable timing sets. If you’re new to degreeing, read COMP Cams’ guide on degreeing for detailed steps.

Reassembling the Top End

  1. Install lifters – if flat tappet, coat the bottom with moly paste; for rollers, use a specialized assembly lube. Keep them in their original bores or install new lifters for the cam.
  2. Install pushrods – use a pushrod length checker to confirm proper rocker arm geometry. Many aftermarket cams require different pushrod lengths. Re‑install them in the same orientation.
  3. Install rocker arms – for hydraulic lifters, adjust preload by turning the rocker nut until you feel resistance, then add ½ to 1 full turn (check cam card recommendation). For solid lifters, set lash hot to cam card spec.
  4. Install a new intake manifold gasket. Use a thin bead of RTV at the china walls (front and rear of manifold). Place the manifold, torque bolts in the specified sequence (typically starting from the center outward) to 25–30 ft‑lb in steps.
  5. Install valve covers with new gaskets. Use a light coat of RTV in corners if needed. Torque to 6–8 ft‑lb.
  6. Reinstall all accessories – alternator, power steering, A/C compressor, fan, shroud, carburetor/throttle body, air cleaner, and radiator hoses. Reconnect battery.

Initial Start‑Up and Cam Break‑In

Pre‑Oil the Engine

Before starting, prime the oil system using a drill‑driven oil pump priming tool (available at Summit Racing). This circulates oil to the cam bearings and lifters, preventing dry start. If your engine uses a roller cam, you still need to prime the lifters and rockers. Crank the engine with the ignition disable until oil pressure registers on the gauge.

Break‑In Procedure

For flat‑tappet cams, the break‑in is critical. Fill the crankcase with high‑zinc break‑in oil. Start the engine and immediately rev it to 2000–2500 RPM. Maintain this speed for 20–30 minutes while varying the RPM slightly (do not let it idle). This seats the cam lobes and lifters. During this time:

  • Watch for oil pressure – should be 40+ PSI hot.
  • Listen for any tapping or knocking – shut down immediately if you hear a ticking that doesn’t disappear.
  • Check for coolant and oil leaks.
  • Adjust timing as needed – a base timing of 10–12° BTDC is typical for most COMP Cams.

For hydraulic roller cams, the break‑in is less demanding – you can start the engine and let it warm up at 1500–2000 RPM for 10–15 minutes, then check for leaks and set idle. However, still use break‑in oil for the first oil change.

Initial Test Drive

After the break‑in, change the oil and filter – do not skip this, as it removes metal particles. Then reset the valve lash (hydraulic lifters need no adjustment; solid check when hot). Take the El Camino for a gentle drive, varying throttle position and engine speed. Avoid sustained high RPM or full‑throttle runs for the first 500 miles. Notice the improved throttle response and idle quality; the difference should be dramatic.

Performance Gains and Tuning Advice

A properly installed COMP Cams camshaft can add 50–70+ horsepower to a standard Chevy V8. Matching cam selection with supporting modifications (higher‑flow intake, headers, exhaust, and a tune) multiplies the gain. You may need to adjust the carburetor idle mixture and re‑curve the distributor (or retune an ECU if fuel‑injected) to take full advantage of the new cam’s timing events. For a quick power increase, consider pairing the cam with a COMP Cams valvetrain upgrade kit (springs, retainers, keepers) to handle higher lift without valve float.

Conclusion

Installing a COMP Cams camshaft in your Chevrolet El Camino is a rewarding project that transforms the driving experience. By following this detailed guide – from selecting the correct cam and using the right tools to proper break‑in and tuning – you’ll ensure your new cam delivers its advertised horsepower gains reliably. Take your time, double‑check alignment and timing marks, and always prioritize safety. With the new camshaft, your El Camino will pull harder through the mid‑range, sound more aggressive, and turn heads on every cruise.