Why Install a CompCams Stage 2 Camshaft in Your D-Series?

The D-series engine family (D15, D16, D17) powers millions of Honda Civics, Del Sols, and CRXs. While reliable and efficient, these four-cylinders respond well to camshaft upgrades. The CompCams Stage 2 camshaft is one of the most popular choices for D-series enthusiasts because it delivers a noticeable power gain without sacrificing daily-driver manners. This guide covers everything you need to know about costs, installation, tuning, and real-world performance gains — helping you decide if the Stage 2 cam is right for your build.

CompCams Stage 2 Camshaft Specifications

Before diving into costs and benefits, let’s review what makes this camshaft tick. CompCams designs its Stage 2 profile for engines with some supporting modifications — think intake, header, and exhaust — but no major internal work.

  • Duration (intake/exhaust): 224°/228°
  • Valve lift (intake/exhaust): .480″ / .480″
  • Lobe separation angle (LSA): 110°
  • RPM range: 2000–6800 (with supporting mods)

Compared to the stock cam (typically around 186° duration and .370″ lift), the Stage 2 opens the valves wider and longer. This allows more air-fuel mixture into the cylinders, especially at higher RPMs. The 110° LSA gives a subtle lope at idle, adding character without causing stalling or rough idling when properly tuned.

Complete Cost Breakdown

The total investment for a CompCams Stage 2 install ranges from $900 to $1,800, depending on your location, chosen parts, and whether you DIY or hire a shop. Below is a detailed breakdown so you can budget accurately.

Parts Costs

  • CompCams Stage 2 Camshaft (D-series): $330–$420 (pricing varies by retailer; check CompCams official site)
  • Cam installation kit (timing belt, water pump, tensioner): $80–$150 (highly recommended to replace while in there)
  • Valve springs & retainers (upgraded): $120–$200 (CompCams recommends dual springs for Stage 2 to prevent valve float above 6500 RPM)
  • Head gasket & valve cover gasket: $25–$50
  • Coolant & oil: $30–$50
  • Optional: adjustable cam gear: $50–$100 (allows fine-tuning cam timing for extra power)

Total parts estimate: $635–$970 (with recommended upgrades)

Labor Costs

Labor rates for Japanese engine work typically run $100–$150/hour. A cam swap on a D-series takes 4–6 hours for an experienced mechanic, plus 1–2 hours for timing belt and water pump replacement if not already new.

  • Labor (cam swap only): $400–$900
  • Additional labor for timing belt/water pump: $100–$200

Total labor estimate: $500–$1,100

Grand Total

DIY install: $635–$970
Professional install with timing belt job: $1,135–$2,070
Professional install without timing belt: $1,035–$1,870

Note: Prices may vary. Use Summit Racing or CarParts.com for current pricing on parts.

Performance Gains: What to Expect on the Dyno

The CompCams Stage 2 camshaft delivers its best results when paired with a free-flowing intake, 4-2-1 header, and a 2.5″ exhaust. On a stock engine with those bolt-ons, expect:

  • Peak horsepower gain: 15–25 whp (typically from 105 whp stock to 120–130 whp)
  • Peak torque gain: 10–15 lb-ft (torque curve shifts upward, especially above 4000 RPM)
  • Powerband: Strong pull from 3500 to 7000 RPM; slight loss below 2500 RPM

Here’s a typical dyno comparison:

  • Stock D16Y8 (bolt-ons, no cam): ~105 whp, 95 lb-ft
  • With Comp Stage 2 + tune: ~125 whp, 108 lb-ft

For a D15B or D17, gains are similar but start from a lower baseline. The cam’s real strength is area under the curve — the engine feels alive from 3500 RPM to redline, making highway merging and spirited driving much more enjoyable.

Installation: What’s Involved

Installing a camshaft on a D-series is a moderate DIY job if you have basic mechanical skills, a torque wrench, and a repair manual. Here’s a high-level overview of the process.

Step 1: Preparation

  • Disconnect battery negative terminal.
  • Drain coolant and oil.
  • Remove intake, valve cover, timing cover, and spark plugs.

Step 2: Timing Belt & Cam Gear Removal

  • Rotate crankshaft to TDC (top dead center) on cylinder 1.
  • Remove serpentine belt and crankshaft pulley bolt.
  • Remove timing belt tensioner then slide off timing belt.
  • Remove cam gear bolt and slide off cam gear (note orientation).

Step 3: Camshaft Removal

  • Remove rocker arm assembly (D-series uses a single rocker shaft).
  • Unbolt cam bearing caps in sequence (check service manual for torque pattern).
  • Lift out old camshaft — careful not to damage bearings.

Step 4: Install New Cam

  • Lubricate cam lobes and journals with assembly lube.
  • Place new cam in position, reinstall bearing caps to spec (usually 7–10 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall rocker arm assembly (torque in sequence).

Step 5: Timing & Reassembly

  • Install new cam gear (or adjustable gear) and timing belt, set tension.
  • Rotate engine twice by hand to verify timing marks align.
  • Reinstall timing cover, valve cover with new gasket, and all accessories.
  • Fill with fresh oil and coolant.

Step 6: Tuning

The most critical step! A D-series with a Stage 2 cam must be tuned. Use a Hondata S300, K-Pro, or a chip tune. Expect to pay $300–$600 for a professional dyno tune. A basemap from CompCams can get you to the tuner, but don’t drive hard without calibration.

Important Considerations Before You Buy

Supporting Modifications

The Stage 2 cam requires a free-flowing exhaust and intake to breathe. Minimal requirements:

  • Cold air intake or short ram intake
  • 4-2-1 header (or 4-1 for top-end)
  • 2.25″–2.5″ exhaust system with high-flow catalytic converter
  • Upgraded valve springs (dual springs recommended to prevent float)
  • Tuning solution (Hondata or equivalent)

Daily Driveability

  • Idle quality is slightly choppy but stable after warm-up.
  • Low-RPM torque (below 2500) is reduced — expect to rev higher when taking off.
  • Fuel economy may drop 1–3 MPG if driven hard, but can remain near stock with conservative tuning.
  • Emissions: a tuned cam may fail a visual inspection in strict states (California).

Comparison: Stage 1 vs. Stage 2 vs. Stage 3

  • Stage 1: 212°/218° duration, .447″ lift — milder, works with stock springs, minimal idle change, gains ~10 whp.
  • Stage 2: 224°/228° duration, .480″ lift — best all-around for a street/autocross car.
  • Stage 3: 236°/240° duration, .495″ lift — rough idle, requires aftermarket ECU and upgraded valvetrain, gains 25–35 whp but poor low-end.

Common Mistakes & How to Avoid Them

  • Skipping valve springs: Stock springs will float above 6500 RPM, causing power loss and potential valve-to-piston contact. Always upgrade.
  • Ignoring piston-to-valve clearance: D-series with a stock head can clear Stage 2, but if you have a milled head or thin head gasket, check clearance with clay.
  • Not replacing the timing belt: The belt is removed anyway — replace it to avoid a future failure that can destroy the engine.
  • Driving untuned: The engine will run lean at high RPM and may cause detonation. Get a tune before heavy throttle.
  • Using the wrong cam gear bolt torque: Over-torqueing can strip the camshaft nose. Use thread locker and torque to manufacturer spec (typically 36 ft-lbs).

Where to Buy & Warranty Info

Purchase your CompCams Stage 2 cam from authorized dealers like Summit Racing, Jegs, or directly from CompCams. CompCams offers a limited lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects. Keep your receipt and inspect the cam lobes for damage before installation — small scratches are common during shipping but can be polished out with fine emery cloth.

Final Verdict: Is It Worth It?

For D-series owners who have already done basic bolt-ons and want a significant, reliable power increase, the CompCams Stage 2 is an excellent investment. Total cost with professional installation and tuning ranges from $1,500 to $2,500, which is far cheaper than a B-series swap or forced induction. The cam transforms the engine’s character, giving it a mean idle and a strong pull to redline. With proper supporting mods and a tune, you’ll have a car that’s genuinely fun to drive every day.

If you’re on a tight budget or only want minimal gains, consider the Stage 1. But if you want the sweet spot of performance and practicality, the Stage 2 is the cam to choose.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will a Stage 2 cam work with automatic transmission?

Yes, but the torque loss below 2500 RPM makes daily driving less pleasant. Manual transmission allows you to keep the engine in the powerband. If you have an automatic, consider a higher-stall torque converter or Stick with Stage 1.

Do I need to upgrade fuel injectors?

Stock D-series injectors (240–270 cc) are sufficient for Stage 2 up to about 140 whp. If you add a bigger throttle body or run higher compression, upgrade to 310–350 cc injectors.

Can I install the cam myself with basic tools?

Yes, with a service manual, torque wrench, and engine hoist (to support engine if you don’t want to remove it). Expect 6–8 hours your first time. It’s a rewarding job that teaches you a lot about your engine.

For more detailed engine-building guides and community support, check out Honda-Tech forums — they have extensive threads on D-series cam swaps.