Introduction

Upgrading the intercooler on your SW20 MR2 Turbo is one of the most effective ways to improve intake air temperatures, reduce knock risk, and maintain consistent power during hard driving. The factory side-mount intercooler, while adequate for stock boost levels, quickly becomes a bottleneck as you increase boost or drive in warm climates. The Greddy front-mount intercooler (FMIC) kit is a popular, well-tested solution that provides a significant increase in core volume and frontal surface area, allowing cooler, denser air to reach the engine. This guide walks through the complete installation process, from gathering tools and prepping the car to final leak checks and a shakedown drive. Whether you are a seasoned SW20 owner or a first-time intercooler installer, these step-by-step instructions will help you get the job done safely and correctly.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather all the tools and supplies listed below. Having everything on hand will prevent mid-job trips to the hardware store and ensure a smooth installation. The Greddy kit typically includes the intercooler core, mounting brackets, couplers, T-bolt clamps, and piping. However, you may need a few extra items depending on your car’s specific setup.

  • Greddy front-mount intercooler kit (confirm it matches your SW20 year and engine model)
  • Socket set with extensions (metric, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm most common)
  • Combination wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 14mm)
  • Flat-blade and Phillips screwdrivers
  • Pry bar or trim tool (for removing plastic fasteners)
  • Torque wrench (beware overtightening aluminum brackets)
  • Thread-locker (medium strength) for mounting bolts
  • Hose cutter or sharp utility knife (if you need to trim silicone couplers)
  • Flat file or sandpaper (to deburr pipe ends)
  • Jack and jack stands (or a lift)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Shop rags and brake cleaner (for cleaning mating surfaces)
  • Anti-seize compound (optional, for hardware that may corrode)

Preparation and Safety

Parking and Battery Disconnection

Park the SW20 on a level, solid surface. Engage the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels (the car is mid-engine, so weight is rear-biased). Disconnect the negative battery terminal – this prevents accidental sparking near fuel lines or sensors during installation. Wrap the terminal end in a rag or electrical tape to prevent accidental contact.

Lifting the Front of the Car

Because the FMIC mounts in the front bumper area, you’ll need to access the lower front of the vehicle. Use a jack to lift the front crossmember and support the car securely on jack stands placed on the front subframe jacking points. Never work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack. Give yourself enough clearance to slide under the front bumper comfortably, but be careful not to lift so high that the wheels dangle and strain the brake lines.

Workspace Preparation

Clear the area around the car. Have a tray or container for removed hardware and fasteners. Label any parts you remove if necessary – especially the stock intercooler hose routing. A well-lit workspace with a drop cloth will keep fasteners from disappearing.

Removing the Stock Intercooler

Locate and Identify Components

The stock intercooler on the SW20 turbo is located in the left rear side of the engine bay (passenger side for left-hand-drive cars) and routes air through a pipe that goes forward along the side sill to a front-mounted heat exchanger. Wait – that description is for the factory side-mount design, but many SW20 turbos have a fender-well mounted intercooler fed by a duct behind the left rear wheel. Know your setup: the stock intercooler sits behind the left rear wheel well liner. You’ll need to remove some interior trim in the trunk area and the wheel well liner to get to it. The Greddy FMIC kit replaces this entirely, so you will be removing the factory intercooler core, its mounting bracket, and all associated hoses and pipes up to the throttle body.

Remove the Rear Wheel and Liner (if needed)

For easier access, remove the left rear wheel. Then remove the inner fender liner (usually held by plastic push clips and 10mm bolts). With the liner out of the way, you can clearly see the stock intercooler, its mounting bracket, and the intake pipe that connects to the turbo compressor outlet.

Disconnect Hoses and Unbolt the Stock Core

  1. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet of the stock intercooler. Carefully slide the hoses off the intercooler necks. If the hoses are old and stubborn, use a small pry bar to break the seal, but be gentle – you may reuse the hoses for other projects.
  2. Unbolt the intercooler bracket from the chassis. Typically there are two or three 12mm bolts. Support the intercooler so it doesn’t drop on your hands.
  3. Remove the core and the rubber isolators. Set them aside.
  4. Now trace the piping from the turbo outlet to the rear of the car. Remove any plastic or metal pipes that connect the turbo to the stock intercooler. You’ll need to unbolt the pipe that runs along the left sill inside the car. This often requires removing the lower door sill trim and a small access panel in the rear storage area.
  5. At the front of the car, remove the existing front bumper ducting and any piping that leads from the side-mount to the throttle body. In some kits, you must also remove the stock hard pipe that goes across the engine bay from the intercooler to the intake manifold.

Be methodical and take photos as you go. This will help when you route the new piping.

Installing the Greddy Front Mount Intercooler

Positioning the Core

The Greddy FMIC core is designed to fit inside the front bumper opening. Slide it into place from above or below, depending on your chosen orientation. The core should sit with its inlet and outlet facing the passenger side (for left-hand-drive cars) or driver side (for right-hand-drive). It should be centered behind the license plate area. Most kits come with a mounting bracket that attaches to the front impact bar or the lower bumper support. Do not drill into the radiator support or A/C condenser unless absolutely necessary – the kit brackets should provide a clean fit.

Securing the Core with Brackets

Clean the mating surfaces of the core and brackets with brake cleaner. Apply a drop of medium-strength thread-locker to the bolt threads. Bolt the brackets to the core first (do not fully tighten), then position the assembly in the car. Attach the brackets to the existing holes in the bumper beam. Tighten all bolts to the torque specified in the kit instructions (typically 15-20 ft-lbs for M8 bolts). Check that the core is level and does not interfere with the bumper skin or cooling fan shrouds. Reinstall the bumper skin temporarily to verify clearance; it’s easier to adjust now than after piping is connected.

Routing the Piping

Lay out all the pipes from the kit and identify the correct orientation. The piping typically consists of a cold-side pipe (from intercooler to throttle body) and a hot-side pipe (from turbo to intercooler). The hot-side pipe will route along the left side of the car, passing through the area where the stock side-mount once sat. You may need to remove a metal bracket or modify the stock heat shield for clearance. The cold-side pipe runs across the front of the engine and connects to the intake manifold.

Slide the pipes together loosely with the silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. Do not tighten anything yet. Adjust the pipe positions so they have at least 1 cm of clearance from moving parts, sharp edges, and hot surfaces. Use the supplied rubber grommets on any brackets that mount to the body to prevent vibration. Once all pipes are aligned, tighten the clamps. Alternate between clamps to avoid pulling the pipe out of alignment. Important: Deburr any cut pipe ends with a file or sandpaper so they don’t damage the silicone couplers.

Connecting the Hoses

Attach the silicone hoses to the intercooler inlet/outlet and to the turbo compressor outlet and throttle body. Use the shortest possible hose routes to reduce lag. Ensure all couplers are fully seated over the aluminum pipe ends (the pipe should go at least 1 inch into the coupler). Tighten the clamps to approximately 5 Nm (40 in-lbs) – just tight enough to prevent leaks without crushing the aluminum pipes.

Connecting the Piping and Hoses (Detailed Check)

Hot-Side Routing

The turbo outlet (hot side) feeds into a hard pipe that runs to the front. In the Greddy kit, this pipe is often a two-piece design that goes through the left front of the engine bay. If you have an aftermarket downpipe or larger turbo, you may need to trim the pipe slightly or use an additional coupler. Route the pipe so it does not touch the steering rack, suspension components, or the engine block. Use the supplied heat wrap or an adhesive heat shield on sections that come close to the exhaust manifold.

Cold-Side Routing

The cold-side pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body often passes behind the front bumper and then crosses in front of the engine. You may need to reposition the coolant overflow bottle slightly. The kit usually includes a bracket that relocates the bottle. Secure all pipes with the provided clamps and rubber-lined P-clamps where they attach to chassis points.

Final Connection to Throttle Body

Remove the stock rubber boot connecting the old intercooler pipe to the throttle body. Replace it with the supplied silicone coupler. Ensure there is no debris in the intake tract. Use a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the coupler to ease installation. Tighten the clamp firmly but do not overtighten – the throttle body neck is aluminum and can crack.

Final Checks and Testing

Visual Inspection

Reinstall any trim panels that were removed (bumper skin, under trays, wheel well liner, or rear interior panels). Double-check that all intercooler piping is clear of the ground, tires, and suspension. Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm the pipes do not rub on the steering shaft. Check that the intercooler core is not contacting the A/C lines or the front bumper reinforcement beam.

Reconnect Battery and Prime the System

Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Before starting the engine, turn the ignition to the “ON” position (do not crank) for 5 seconds to allow the fuel pump to prime and the ECU to reset. Then turn the key to start. The car may idle a bit higher initially as the ECU adapts to the increased airflow. Let the engine reach normal operating temperature.

Leak Testing

This step is critical. A boost leak will cause poor throttle response and can lean out the fuel mixture. With the engine idling, spray a soapy water solution (water + a drop of dish soap) onto every coupler connection, clamp, and the intercooler core seams. Look for bubbles. Alternatively, use a boost leak tester (a cap that pressurizes the intake system to 15-20 psi). Listen for hissing sounds. Tighten any leaking clamps. If a coupler is damaged, replace it before driving.

Test Drive

Take the car for a gentle test drive. Accelerate gradually in lower gears and listen for unusual noises. At moderate boost (5-7 psi), verify that the engine pulls smoothly. If you hear a loud whistling or whooshing sound, you likely have a leak. Stop, inspect, and fix the leak. Once satisfied, try a few full-boost pulls (if your tune allows). The intercooler should noticeably reduce intake air temperatures. Use a scan tool or aftermarket gauge to monitor charge air temperature – expect a drop of 30-50°F (15-25°C) compared to the stock side-mount under similar conditions.

Tuning Considerations

Installing an FMIC increases airflow. On a stock ECU, the engine may run slightly leaner if the MAF calibration is affected. For safety, it is recommended to have your car professionally tuned or at least check your air-fuel ratio with a wideband gauge. Many SW20 owners upgrade to a standalone ECU or a piggyback fuel controller when adding an FMIC. Lower intake temperatures also reduce knock, so you may be able to run more ignition timing safely – but always verify with a proper tune.

Conclusion

Installing a Greddy front-mount intercooler on your SW20 is one of the most rewarding upgrades for turbo performance. The process, while taking a full afternoon, is well within the capabilities of a home mechanic with moderate experience. By paying careful attention to pipe routing, clamp torque, and leak testing, you can achieve a reliable installation that delivers consistent power gains even during extended driving. The reduced heat soak and improved cooling efficiency allow you to push boost higher with confidence. For further reading, check out the official Greddy product page for your specific kit, or visit the MR2 Owners Club forum for real-world tips and troubleshooting from fellow enthusiasts. A well-tuned, properly intercooled SW20 is a joy to drive – enjoy the improved throttle response and the confidence that comes with lower intake temperatures.