Installing a ProCharger turbo kit on a Dodge Challenger is one of the most effective ways to unlock serious horsepower and transform the car's character. Whether you drive an R/T, Scat Pack, or SRT Hellcat, a properly installed centrifugal supercharger system can add 150–300+ rear-wheel horsepower while maintaining daily drivability. But a successful installation requires more than just bolting on parts; it demands careful planning, proper tooling, and a thorough understanding of your vehicle's systems. This guide provides the practical, production-focused advice you need to install a ProCharger challenger turbo kit without headaches or costly mistakes.

Understanding the ProCharger Supercharger System

Before touching a wrench, it's worth knowing exactly what you're working with. A ProCharger is a centrifugal supercharger, not a traditional turbocharger. It uses a belt-driven impeller to compress air and feed it into the engine. Unlike a typical Roots-type blower, a centrifugal unit builds boost progressively with engine RPM, mimicking the power curve of a large turbo but without the lag or heat soak issues. The kit includes a supercharger head unit, intercooler, charge piping, a bypass valve, fuel system upgrades, and a calibration device or tuning software such as ProCharger's included DiabloSport or HP Tuners package.

Key components you'll find in the box include:

  • ProCharger D-1X or F-1X head unit (depending on kit level)
  • Air-to-air intercooler core
  • Mandrel-bent aluminum charge tubes with silicone couplers
  • Bypass valve (blow-off valve style)
  • Higher-flow fuel injectors and a larger fuel pump (or pump booster)
  • Drive belt kit with tensioner
  • Mounting brackets and hardware
  • Pre-loaded tuning device or base calibration

Understanding the function of each part helps during troubleshooting and ensures you don't miss critical steps like routing the bypass valve correctly or bleeding the intercooler system.

Essential Tools and Workspace Preparation

A clean, well-lit workspace with ample room around the car is non-negotiable. You'll be working under the hood and underneath the vehicle, so plan for a full day or weekend installation. Beyond standard hand tools, gather these items:

Hand Tools

  • Socket set (metric and SAE, 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch drive)
  • Combination wrenches from 8mm to 21mm
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb and in-lb ranges)
  • Pick set and trim removal tools
  • Pliers (standard, needle-nose, and hose clamp)

Specialty Tools

  • Belt tension gauge
  • Compression tester (pre-install health check)
  • Fuel pressure test kit
  • Vacuum/boost gauge or scan tool
  • Jack and jack stands (or lift)

Consumables

  • Thread locker (blue Loctite is recommended for critical fasteners)
  • Anti-seize compound
  • Silicone spray for coupler installation
  • Coolant and engine oil (check your owner's manual)
  • Shop towels and brake cleaner

Having everything laid out before you start saves frustration. Read the ProCharger instruction manual cover to cover; it contains kit-specific torque values and order of operations that vary by Challenger model year and engine size.

Pre-Installation Vehicle Checks

Your Challenger must be in good mechanical condition before adding forced induction. Boost amplifies existing weaknesses. Perform these checks at least a week before the install:

  • Compression test and leak-down test – ensures your engine has healthy ring seal and no leaking valves.
  • Fluid condition – change engine oil and filter, top off coolant, and inspect transmission fluid. Use full synthetic oil with the correct viscosity for forced induction.
  • Battery and charging system – a weak battery can cause tuning issues. Ensure terminals are clean and the alternator is capable.
  • Fuel system health – check fuel pressure and inspect the fuel pump. ProCharger kits often require a larger pump or a voltage booster; confirm your pump can support the new flow.
  • Cooling system – inspect the radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Boost generates more heat; consider upgrading to a high-flow thermostat and fans if you run a demanding tune.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

Step 1: Remove Stock Intake and Accessories

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Remove the factory air intake box, intake tube, and mass airflow sensor. Unbolt any plastic shrouds covering the front of the engine. If your Challenger has a strut tower brace, remove it temporarily. Drain the coolant if the kit requires intercooler water lines (most ProCharger kits use air-to-air, but verify). Label all hoses and electrical connectors as you go.

Step 2: Mount the Supercharger Bracket and Head Unit

The ProCharger kit includes a cast aluminum mounting bracket that replaces your factory belt-driven accessory bracket. Install the bracket using the supplied bolts and blue Loctite, torquing to the values specified in the manual. The supercharger head unit then bolts to this bracket. Ensure the impeller spins freely before final tightening. Route the belt around the crank pulley, supercharger pulley, and tensioner, then set belt tension according to the manual. A loose belt slips at high RPM and robs boost.

Step 3: Install the Intercooler and Charge Piping

Mount the air-to-air intercooler in front of the radiator. You may need to trim the lower bumper cover slightly for clearance on some models. Attach the intercooler brackets to the frame rails and check that the core sits straight. Connect the charge pipe from supercharger outlet to the intercooler inlet, then the intercooler outlet to the throttle body. Use the supplied silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. Tighten all clamps evenly to avoid boost leaks. Install the bypass valve on the charge pipe between the supercharger and throttle body; route its vacuum line to a manifold vacuum source.

Step 4: Upgrade the Fuel System

ProCharger kits for Challengers typically include a set of 60 lb/hr or larger injectors and a fuel pump booster (BAP). Remove the stock injectors and install the new ones, using new o-rings lubricated with a drop of engine oil. Reinstall the fuel rail. For the fuel pump, locate the pump module under the rear seat (driver side on many Challengers). Disconnect the wiring harness, remove the locking ring, and install the BAP in line with the pump. Ensure all electrical connections are heat-shrinked and secure. If your kit includes a full replacement pump, follow the instructions for swapping it. Double-check for fuel leaks before turning the key.

Step 5: Electrical Connections and Tuning Setup

Connect the supercharger bypass valve solenoid (if equipped) and any boost reference lines. Install the provided tuning device – often a handheld DiabloSport i3 or an HP Tuners RTD module. Do not start the engine without loading the base tune. Follow the tuning device prompts to upload the calibration that corresponds to your fuel octane and vehicle configuration. This base tune adjusts fuel tables, ignition timing, and boost targets for safe operation. Never drive the car without the proper tune installed – lean conditions can destroy the engine in minutes.

Step 6: Final Assembly and Leak Checks

Reinstall all factory components you removed, ensuring no hoses or wires are pinched. Refill coolant if you drained it, and top off engine oil if needed. Pressurize the charge system with a boost leak tester (available from ProCharger or aftermarket) to 15–20 psi. Listen for hissing at couplers, the bypass valve, and intercooler cores. Fix any leaks before starting the engine. Reconnect the battery.

Tuning and ECU Calibration – The Make-or-Break Step

The tuning process is often the most misunderstood part of a ProCharger install. A base calibration from the kit is safe for stock engines on 91/93 octane, but it's a one-size-fits-all map. For best performance and reliability, consider a dyno tune or remote tuning session with a shop experienced in Chrysler ECU tuning. Essential tuning considerations include:

  • Wideband oxygen sensor – install a wideband O2 gauge to monitor air-fuel ratio in real time. Target 11.5–12.0:1 under full boost.
  • Ignition timing – too much timing with high boost can cause detonation. Your tuner will adjust for the octane you run.
  • Fuel trims – ensure short- and long-term fuel trims stay within +/-5% after the tune is applied.
  • Boost curve – the centrifugal supercharger's boost will climb with RPM; a good tune will ramp in fuel and timing smoothly.
  • Transmission calibration – if your Challenger is automatic, consider a transmission tune to firm up shifts and increase line pressure for the added torque.

If you opt for a remote tune, you'll perform street logs and send data files to the tuner. This is a cost-effective alternative to a dyno but requires a safe area to do WOT pulls.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Even experienced DIYers make errors. Avoid these frequent pitfalls:

  • Ignoring the instruction manual – ProCharger updates kits; the manual has the latest torque specs and routing diagrams. Don't rely on forum posts alone.
  • Skipping the boost leak test – a leaky coupler can cause a lean condition that melts pistons. Always pressure test before initial start.
  • Using the wrong octane fuel – base tunes expect 91 octane minimum. Running 87 will cause detonation. Fill with 93 if available.
  • Neglecting to update the PCM – ensure your ECU has the latest factory updates before loading the ProCharger calibration. Some older units need a dealer flash first.
  • Over-torquing fasteners – brittle aluminum brackets can crack. Use a torque wrench for critical bolts.
  • Forgetting the belt break-in – new drive belts need a few heat cycles. Re-check tension after 500 miles.

Post-Installation Break-In and Testing

Once the installation is complete and the base tune is flashed, it's time to fire the engine. Check for fuel leaks immediately. Let the engine idle and warm up; look for coolant leaks, oil leaks, and check the supercharger for unusual whine (some whine is normal, but grinding or clattering indicates an issue). Monitor the gauges – oil pressure, coolant temperature, and fuel pressure. Take an initial test drive staying out of boost. Drive gently for 20–30 miles to let the ECU adapt fuel trims. Then begin moderate boost pulls at half throttle, monitoring the wideband. If the AFR stays in the safe zone and no knock counts appear (use a scan tool or tuning device), you can gradually increase to full-throttle runs.

Post-installation checklist:

  • Re-check all hardware torque after the first heat cycle.
  • Inspect all charge pipe clamps for tightness.
  • Verify belt tension and re-tension if needed.
  • Check coolant and oil levels.
  • Log a few WOT pulls and send the data to your tuner if doing remote tuning.
  • Schedule a dyno session within the first month for final tuning.

Final Thoughts

Installing a ProCharger turbo kit on your Challenger is a rewarding project that dramatically changes the car's performance envelope. The key to a seamless setup is thorough preparation, meticulous installation, and proper tuning. Don't rush – take the time to verify every connection and test for leaks. If you're not confident in any step, especially the fuel system and tuning, enlist a professional shop. The result is a street machine that pulls hard from corner to corner and still starts and drives like stock. For further reading, check out ProCharger's official installation guide for your specific kit (ProCharger), discuss your build on ChallengerTalk for community support, and consider a high-quality wideband gauge from AEM Electronics. If you are planning a more aggressive fuel system upgrade, read up on DeatschWerks injectors and pumps. With the right approach, your Challenger will be ready to run from the stoplight to the open road with authority and reliability.