If you own a Nissan 350Z and have been dreaming of big power gains, a ProCharger supercharger kit is one of the most efficient and reliable paths to 450+ horsepower. Unlike turbochargers that can introduce lag and complex plumbing, centrifugal superchargers like the ProCharger deliver smooth, linear boost that builds with engine RPM. This means you get a powerband that feels natural and easy to live with on the street while still offering jaw-dropping top-end pull. In this guide, we will cover every step of the installation process in detail, from gathering the right tools to the final ECU calibration, so you can transform your VQ35DE or VQ35HR engine into a forced-induction monster with confidence.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Before you start wrenching, assemble all tools and parts. Having everything on hand prevents frustrating stops and ensures a clean installation process.

  • ProCharger Supercharger Kit – Choose a complete kit (P-1SC, D-1SC, or similar) for the 350Z. These typically include the supercharger head unit, bracket, intercooler, intake piping, blow-off valve, belt, and all hardware.
  • Socket set (metric) – 8mm through 19mm, including deep sockets, extensions, and a ratchet.
  • Wrenches – Combination wrenches, especially 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and a 17mm for belt tensioner.
  • Torque wrench – A ⅜-inch drive torque wrench for critical fasteners (e.g., bracket bolts to engine block).
  • Screwdrivers – Flathead and Phillips for hose clamps, sensors, and harness clips.
  • Trim removal tool – For removing plastic shrouds and under-engine covers without breaking clips.
  • Vacuum/pressure test kit – To check for boost leaks after installation.
  • Fuel injectors (upgraded) – Minimum 550cc–750cc high-impedance injectors; DeatschWerks, Injector Dynamics, or Bosch EV14 are common choices. Check compatibility with your ECU.
  • Fuel pump (optional but recommended) – A Walbro 255 LPH or AEM 320 LPH drop-in pump ensures adequate fuel delivery at higher boost levels.
  • Spark plugs (one heat range colder) – NGK LFR7AIX or equivalent iridium plugs for forced induction.
  • Oil and coolant – Fresh engine oil and coolant if you need to drain any.
  • ECU tuning software or device – Options include UpRev Osiris, ECUTek, or a Haltech standalone if you plan to go further. You will need a wideband O2 sensor (AEM, Innovate) for monitoring air/fuel ratio during tuning.
  • Safety goggles and gloves – Protect yourself from fluids, debris, and sharp edges.
  • Thread locker (blue Loctite) – For critical fasteners subject to vibration.
  • Jack and jack stands – For some under-vehicle steps (coolant drain, removing lower piping).

Preparation Steps

Preparation is key to a smooth install. Park your 350Z on a level surface, allow the engine to cool completely, and disconnect the battery negative terminal. Having a helper can speed up tasks like aligning the bracket and feeding the belt.

1. Disconnect the Battery

Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and move it away from the post to prevent any accidental contact. This is a critical safety step to avoid short circuits when working near the alternator, sensors, and wiring.

2. Drain Coolant and Remove the Radiator Fan Shroud

To access the front of the engine and install the intercooler, you will need to remove the radiator fan shroud. Drain at least 1–2 gallons of coolant from the radiator petcock (located on the driver side of the radiator). Then unplug the electric fan connectors and unbolt the fan shroud assembly. You may also need to remove the upper radiator hose to create clearance for the intercooler or intake piping.

Remove the factory air box, intake tube, mass air flow (MAF) sensor, and all associated rubber hoses. Also remove the engine cover and any plastic trim that blocks access to the passenger side of the engine where the ProCharger bracket mounts. On some model years, you may need to relocate the coolant reservoir or power steering reservoir slightly (kits often include relocation brackets).

4. Inspect and Replace Spark Plugs (Optional Now)

While you have easy access to the spark plugs after removing the intake manifold or coil packs, it's a good time to swap to a colder heat range plug. Install NGK LFR7AIX gapped to 0.032–0.035 inches. This helps prevent pre-ignition under boost.

Installing the ProCharger Supercharger System

Now for the main event. Follow each step carefully, torquing all critical fasteners to the values specified in your ProCharger installation manual.

1. Mount the ProCharger Bracket

The bracket is the foundation of the entire install. It bolts to the passenger side of the VQ engine block using threaded holes that already exist (some may need to be cleaned with a tap). Apply a small amount of blue Loctite to the bracket bolts before torquing them to 35–40 ft-lb (check your kit's instructions). Make sure the bracket sits flush against the block – any misalignment will cause belt wear and vibration.

2. Install the Supercharger Head Unit

With the bracket secure, attach the ProCharger supercharger to the bracket using the supplied bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern to 18–22 ft-lb. Lubricate the supercharger gear case with the supplied oil before final mounting. Rotate the pulley by hand to ensure smooth rotation – no binding should be felt.

3. Route the Drive Belt

The ProCharger is driven by a single belt that also runs the alternator and power steering pump. Install the belt tensioner in its relaxed position using a 17mm breaker bar to lift the tensioner arm, then slip the belt over the pulleys. Release tensioner, then double-check that the belt is properly seated on all pulleys and the tensioner indicator shows proper range. A belt that is too loose will slip; too tight will damage bearings.

4. Install the Intercooler and Intake Piping

Most ProCharger kits for the 350Z include an air-to-air intercooler that mounts in front of the radiator. Remove the factory bumper support brackets if needed, then bolt the intercooler using the provided brackets. Connect the charge pipes from the supercharger outlet to the intercooler inlet, and from the intercooler outlet to the throttle body. Use silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps. Ensure all connections are tight and that the piping does not contact pulleys or belts.

5. Connect the Blow-Off Valve (BOV)

Mount the BOV (typically a Tial or ProCharger unit) to the charge pipe between the supercharger and throttle body. Run a vacuum line from the BOV to a manifold vacuum source (use the provided port on the intake manifold). A properly functioning BOV prevents compressor surge and prolongs turbocharger life.

6. Install the Fuel Injectors

With the intake manifold still off or easily accessible, remove the factory fuel rail and injectors. Unclip each injector connector, remove the retaining clips, and gently pull the injectors out. Lightly lubricate new injector O-rings with engine oil, then press them into the fuel rail and intake manifold. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 8–10 ft-lb. Reconnect electrical connectors.

For 450+ HP, the stock fuel pump will likely be insufficient. Access the pump through the access panel under the rear seat panel (dealer service manual). Disconnect the hoses and electrical connector, remove the pump assembly, replace the pump with a high-flow unit (e.g., Walbro 255), and reassemble. This step ensures you have enough fuel volume at higher boost levels.

8. Install the Oil Feed and Drain Lines

If your ProCharger kit is self-lubricated (oil from the engine), you need to install an oil feed line from the engine (usually a sandwich plate between the oil filter and block) to the supercharger, and a drain line back to the oil pan or a specified return point. Follow the kit’s instructions exactly – improper drainage can cause oil leaks or damage to the supercharger.

9. Reattach Intake and Vacuum Lines

Reinstall the MAF sensor into its new housing (often provided with the kit). Connect all vacuum lines for the bypass valve, boost reference, and PCV system. Double-check for any loose hoses – a single vacuum leak can cause idle problems and boost loss.

Final Steps and Tuning

With the mechanical installation complete, it's time to button everything up and prepare the engine for its first start under boost.

1. Reconnect the Battery and Refill Fluids

Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Refill the cooling system with fresh coolant (use a 50/50 mix of quality coolant and distilled water). If you drained engine oil, refill with 5W-30 or 10W-30 synthetic oil that meets Nissan specs for forced induction (many owners prefer a high-zinc racing oil). Do not start the engine yet.

2. Pressure Test the System

Before starting, pressurize the entire intake system (from filter to throttle body) with a boost leak tester. Use a shop vac or compressed air with a regulator set to 5–10 psi. Listen for hissing at couplers, BOV base, injector seals, and intake gaskets. Fix any leaks before proceeding – boost leaks waste power and can cause tuning headaches.

3. Prime the Oil System (If Applicable)

If your ProCharger uses engine oil, you should prime the supercharger oil feed by cranking the engine with the fuel pump fuse or relay removed. Crank for 10–15 seconds, then reinstall the fuse. This ensures oil reaches the supercharger bearings before it sees boost.

4. First Start and Initial Checks

Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for any abnormal noises (belt squeal, knocking, ticking) and check for fluid leaks. Monitor the wideband O2 sensor reading – it should read around 14.7:1 at idle. Let the engine reach normal operating temperature, then check the belt tension again (retension if needed after the first heat cycle).

5. ECU Tuning

Tuning is the most critical part of the entire project. Do not drive the car under boost without proper calibration – engine damage will occur quickly. If you have a tuning device like UpRev Osiris or ECUTek, load a base map from your tuner or a reliable source. Begin by adjusting fuel tables and timing to achieve safe 11.5–12.0:1 air/fuel ratio under boost on 91–93 octane gasoline. A professional dyno tune is highly recommended – it maximizes power and ensures reliability. Expect to pay $500–$1000 for a proper tune.

6. Test Drive and Final Adjustments

After tuning, take the car for a gentle test drive. Gradually increase boost while monitoring knock retard and AFR. Listen for belt chirps or any rattles. After 20–30 miles of easy driving, let the car cool down, then recheck all bolts, clamps, and fluid levels. Tighten any components that may have loosened. Now you are ready to experience the exhilarating 450+ HP that your 350Z is capable of.

Ensuring Long-Term Reliability

Reaching 450+ horsepower is exciting, but maintaining that power requires attention to detail. Use high-quality synthetic oil and change it every 3,000 miles (or after every track day). Inspect the supercharger belt regularly and replace it at the first sign of wear. Keep an eye on your wideband and fuel pressure gauge – any lean spike could indicate a failing fuel pump or injector. If you plan to push beyond 500 HP, consider upgrading the clutch (e.g., ACT or Competition Clutch) and adding a fuel return system. With proper maintenance, a ProCharger-equipped 350Z can remain reliable for many years of spirited driving.

For more insight and community support, visit the 350Z Forced Induction Forum and the official ProCharger website for product updates and tech tips. If you need specific injectors or fuel system components, check out DeatschWerks for quality injectors and pumps. With the right preparation and careful execution, your 350Z will soon be a serious performance machine.