Introduction

Upgrading the exhaust system on your D-series Honda is one of the most effective ways to unlock additional horsepower, improve throttle response, and give your car a more aggressive exhaust note. The Skunk2 exhaust system is a popular choice among Honda enthusiasts because it is engineered specifically for the D-series platform, offering a balance of flow, weight savings, and durability. Whether you are building a daily driver with a few bolt-ons or prepping for a track session, a Skunk2 exhaust can make a noticeable difference. This guide takes you through the entire installation process, providing detailed steps and professional tips to ensure a smooth upgrade from start to finish.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand before you start will save time and frustration. Below is a comprehensive list of what you’ll need for a successful installation.

  • Skunk2 Exhaust System – Confirm it is the correct part number for your D-series chassis (e.g., 1992-2000 Civic, 1994-2001 Integra D-series).
  • 3/8” or 1/2” Drive Socket Set – Metric sockets, typically 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm for exhaust bolts.
  • Combination Wrench Set – For tight spaces where a socket won’t fit.
  • Torque Wrench – Essential for tightening bolts to factory specifications and preventing damage.
  • Jack and Jack Stands – A hydraulic jack paired with two or four jack stands rated for the vehicle’s weight.
  • Penetrating Oil (e.g., PB Blaster or WD-40 Specialist) – To loosen rusted bolts and hangers.
  • New Exhaust Gasket – While some kits include a gasket, it’s wise to have a spare (usually a 2-bolt or 3-bolt flange gasket).
  • Anti-Seize Compound – Applying a small amount on bolt threads prevents corrosion and makes future removal easier.
  • Safety Glasses and Mechanic’s Gloves – Protect your eyes and hands from debris and sharp edges.
  • Rubber Mallet or Dead Blow Hammer – To gently tap stubborn exhaust hangers or alignment issues.
  • Wire Brush – For cleaning flange faces and bolt threads before installation.

Preparation

Proper preparation is critical for a safe and efficient installation. Begin by parking your vehicle on a level surface, engaging the parking brake, and chocking the rear wheels. If you have a lift available, use it; otherwise, a jack and jack stands will work.

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels (if needed) and then lift the car. Position the jack stands under the factory lift points or subframe. Lower the car onto the stands and shake it gently to verify stability. Never work under a car supported only by a jack.

Before you crawl under the car, spray penetrating oil on every exhaust bolt, nut, and hanger you can reach. Focus on the flange bolts connecting the header to the catalytic converter (if still equipped) and any intermediate joints. Let the oil soak for 10–15 minutes. This simple step will drastically reduce the chance of snapping a stud.

Removing the Old Exhaust

With the vehicle safely supported and fasteners pre-lubed, you can begin removing the stock exhaust. If your D-series car still has the original exhaust, bolts may be heavily corroded. Have a breaker bar or impact gun ready for stubborn hardware.

  1. Disconnect the exhaust from the header/manifold. Locate the flange joint at the exit of the exhaust manifold (or header, if aftermarket). Use a 12mm or 14mm socket to remove the two or three bolts. If they resist, apply more penetrating oil and let it sit; carefully use a breaker bar.
  2. Remove exhaust hangers. The rubber hangers are found along the length of the exhaust. Use a pry bar or lubricant (soapy water works) to slide the metal hanger rods out of the rubber loops. Alternatively, you can unbolt the hanger brackets from the chassis. Pay attention to the orientation and number of hangers – typically four to six on a D-series sedan or hatchback.
  3. Lower the old system. With all hangers and flanges free, carefully slide the exhaust out from under the vehicle. It may be easier to remove the rear section (muffler) first, then the mid-pipe. If the system is one piece, guide it out over the rear axle. Get help if necessary – exhausts are awkward for one person.
  4. Inspect and clean the mounting points. While the old system is off, take a wire brush to the header flange face and the hanger brackets. Remove any rust or old gasket material. A clean surface ensures a leak-free seal.

Installing the Skunk2 Exhaust

With the exhaust path clear, it’s time to install your new Skunk2 system. Lay out all parts and compare them to the instructions included in the kit. Skunk2 usually provides detailed hardware instructions, but the general steps are universal.

  1. Install the gasket at the header flange. Place the new exhaust gasket over the header studs or bolt holes. Most D-series applications use a simple 2-hole metal gasket. Ensure the gasket is oriented correctly (some have a distinct top or bottom due to alignment tabs). Hand-tighten the bolts to hold it in place.
  2. Position the Skunk2 downpipe or mid-pipe. Slide the first pipe section up to the header flange. Align the bolt holes and insert the provided bolts. Do not fully tighten yet – leave about 1/8” of slack to allow for adjustment later.
  3. Attach the mid-pipe to the downpipe. If your Skunk2 system is two pieces, connect them using the supplied clamp or flange. Again, finger-tighten only.
  4. Fit the muffler section. The rear muffler often has a hanger rod that needs to slide into the factory rubber hanger. Use lubricant to ease installation. Attach any intermediate hangers on the mid-pipe to the chassis brackets. Make sure the exhaust tip clears the bumper cutout with even spacing.
  5. Align the entire system. Walk under the car and check that the exhaust runs parallel to the chassis floor, with no contact against the subframe, control arms, or heat shields. Adjust the pipe sections as needed by wiggling them at the slip joints or flanges. Skunk2 systems are designed for a tight clearance, so a slight push may be required to center the muffler.
  6. Tighten all fasteners. Starting at the header flange, tighten the bolts to manufacturer torque specs (typically 30-35 ft-lbs for M10x1.25 bolts). Work your way to the rear, tightening each flange and clamp. Use a torque wrench for accuracy. Apply anti-seize compound to each bolt thread before final tightening.
  7. Secure the hangers. Ensure each rubber hanger is fully seated and not stretched at an angle. Replace any worn factory hangers with new ones if they feel brittle.

Tip: If your Skunk2 exhaust uses a slip-joint with a band clamp, do not over-tighten the clamp at first. Snug it, then after the first heat cycle, re-tighten it to 40 ft-lbs to prevent exhaust leaks.

Final Checks

  • Visual inspection. Confirm the exhaust is not touching any suspension components or wires. The muffler tip should be centered and not vibrating against the bumper.
  • Check for leaks. With the car still on jacks, start the engine and let it idle. Feel around each flange joint for escaping air. If you hear a ticking or hissing, tighten the bolts further or re-position the gasket. A shop towel held near the joint can show small leaks.
  • Verify ground clearance. The Skunk2 exhaust on a lowered D-series car may reduce ground clearance at the mid-pipe. Measure the lowest point – aim for at least 4 inches. If the pipe hangs too low, check hanger orientation or purchase aftermarket hangers to raise it.

Testing and Break-In

Now that everything is secure, lower the vehicle and take it for a test drive. Find a quiet road with minimal traffic so you can listen for changes. Drive through first, second, and third gear, noting the following:

  • Sound quality: Expect a deeper tone that becomes more aggressive under full throttle. Cruising at highway speeds should be free of excessive drone. Skunk2 exhausts are known for a refined sound but do produce more interior noise than stock.
  • Performance: You may notice improved throttle response and a freer-revving engine. The D-series will gain 5-10 horsepower depending on other mods, but the seat-of-the-pants feel is usually positive.
  • Rattles/vibrations: If you hear metallic rattling, the exhaust may be touching the underbody. Pull over and check clearance. Often only a slight adjustment of the hanger or adding a small rubber isolator can fix it.

After the first 200-300 miles, re-torque all flange bolts and clamps. Heat cycles cause bolts to relax. This extra step prevents leaks and ensures the gasket seals fully.

Maintenance Tips

To keep your Skunk2 exhaust looking and sounding great, follow a simple maintenance routine:

  • Inspect hangers and bolts every oil change. Vibrations can loosen hardware over time.
  • Clean the exhaust tips with a mild degreaser to prevent carbon buildup and corrosion. For stainless steel systems, use a dedicated exhaust polish.
  • Check for cracks or pinholes near welds – especially if you drive in salt-prone areas. A quick visual every few months can catch issues early.
  • Re-apply anti-seize whenever you remove bolts for other services.
  • Keep the gasket fresh. If you ever drop the exhaust for any reason, replace the gasket. Gaskets crush and should not be reused.

Performance Gains and Sound

The Skunk2 exhaust is engineered to optimize flow for the D-series engine. Available dyno charts from Skunk2 and enthusiast forums show gains of 5-12 horsepower and similar torque increases in the mid-range, especially when paired with a quality intake and header. Weight savings are significant too – the stock exhaust system can weigh over 40 pounds; a Skunk2 system may weigh half that, improving vehicle dynamics.

Sound-wise, the Skunk2 exhaust offers a deep, refined tone without excessive rasp. It’s louder than stock but not obnoxious – ideal for those who want performance-oriented sound without attracting too much attention. For sound clips and more details, check the official Skunk2 exhaust page or watch this installation video by a Honda enthusiast.

For additional tuning tips and community experience, the Honda-Tech D-series forum has countless threads with installation feedback and dyno results.

Conclusion

Installing a Skunk2 exhaust on your D-series engine is a rewarding project that delivers noticeable performance gains and an improved driving experience. By following this detailed guide – from pre-soaking bolts to final test driving – you can complete the job with confidence and avoid common pitfalls. The key steps are preparing the work area, carefully removing the old exhaust, aligning the new system properly, and performing a thorough leak check afterward. With proper installation and occasional maintenance, your Skunk2 exhaust will provide years of reliable service and enjoyment. Get ready to hear your D-series come alive.