Introduction: Upgrading the Intercooler on Your W213 E63 AMG

The Mercedes-AMG E63 (W213) is a performance sedan that already delivers astonishing power from its hand-built M177 4.0L twin-turbo V8. However, like all forced-induction engines, its potential is limited by intake air temperature. When the factory intercooler becomes heat-soaked during hard driving or in hot climates, charge air temperatures rise, the ECU pulls timing, and power drops. This is where an upgraded intercooler from Wagner Tuning makes a measurable difference.

Wagner Tuning’s direct-fit intercooler for the W213 E63 increases core volume and fin density, lowering intake temperatures by as much as 30-40°F under sustained boost. This translates to consistent power output, reduced risk of knock, and more aggressive tuning headroom. In this expanded guide, we’ll walk through every step of the installation in detail—from tools and safety to final checks and a test drive. By the end, you’ll have the knowledge and confidence to complete the swap yourself.

For reference, you can view the official product page here: Wagner Tuning Intercooler Kits and check compatibility for your specific year and model.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand saves time and prevents frustration. The Wagner kit includes the intercooler core, silicone hoses, new clamps, and mounting hardware, but you’ll still need a standard mechanic’s toolkit.

  • Wagner Tuning Intercooler Kit (part number varies by year – confirm fitment for 2017-2020 E63 / E63 S)
  • Socket set: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm sockets (both shallow and deep)
  • Combination wrenches: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
  • Torx bits: T25, T30, T45 (for bumper and underbody fasteners)
  • Trim removal tools (plastic pry bars)
  • Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
  • Torque wrench (capable of 10-50 Nm)
  • Coolant – Mercedes-approved G40 or equivalent (approx. 1 liter for top-off, if needed)
  • Shop towels, rags
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Jack stands and floor jack (optional, for better access)
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., WD-40) for stubborn bolts
  • Feeler gauge or caliper (to check core alignment)
  • Vacuum leak tester (optional, for final verification)

Note: Some W213 E63 models have active grille shutters or parking sensors that require careful handling. Check your vehicle’s equipment list before starting.

Preparation Steps: Safety and Access

Before touching a bolt, take these precautions. Work on a flat, level surface with the parking brake engaged. Disconnecting the battery is mandatory for two reasons: it prevents accidental airbag deployment when handling the bumper, and it protects you from shorting electrical connections.

  1. Park the vehicle and allow the engine to cool completely (minimum 2 hours after driving).
  2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the trunk. Use a 10mm socket. Wait 5 minutes for any residual capacitance to drain.
  3. Optionally, raise the front of the car with a jack and secure it on jack stands. This gives better access to under-bumper fasteners and lower intercooler mounts.
  4. Inspect the front bumper for any signs of previous damage or misaligned clips. If you find loose trim, note it for reassembly.
  5. Clean the work area and lay out your tools within easy reach.

For additional tips on Mercedes AMG intercooler upgrades, consult this Mercedes-Benz World forum where many owners share their experiences.

Removing the Stock Intercooler

Step 1: Remove the Front Bumper Assembly

The factory intercooler sits behind the front bumper, sandwiched between the condenser and the radiator. Removing the bumper is the most time-consuming part, but it’s straightforward if you follow the correct sequence.

  • Using a T25 Torx bit, remove the screws along the top of the bumper (under the hood seal). There are typically 6-8 screws. Set them aside carefully; they vary in length.
  • Working under the wheel wells, remove the T25 screws fastening the bumper side to the fender liner. There are 2-3 on each side.
  • At the bottom of the bumper, remove the plastic under-tray screws (T25 or 8mm). You may need to remove the entire under-tray for better access.
  • Peel back the bumper slightly and disconnect any electrical connectors: fog lights (if equipped), parking sensors, and the active grille shutter harness (if present). Use a flathead screwdriver to release the locking tabs gently.
  • Have a helper hold the bumper while you unclip the outermost tabs. The bumper should slide forward off the guide pins.
  • Place the bumper on a soft blanket or stand to avoid scratching the paint.

Tip: Take photos of wiring routing before disconnecting. This saves guesswork during reassembly.

Step 2: Remove Intercooler Ducts and Piping

With the bumper off, you’ll see the stock intercooler directly behind the grille. The factory unit is a side-mounted bar-and-plate design (for the M177 engine in the E63).

  • Locate the two metal charge pipes: one from the turbo outlet to the intercooler inlet (passenger side), and one from the intercooler outlet to the throttle body (driver side).
  • Loosen the hose clamps holding the silicone couplers at each connection point. Use a flathead screwdriver or 7mm nut driver depending on clamp type.
  • Slide the silicone couplers off the intercooler ports. You may need to twist and pull gently.
  • Remove any plastic ducting or shrouds that block intercooler removal. These clip onto the radiator core support.
  • Support the intercooler from below to prevent it from dropping when the mounting bolts are removed.

Step 3: Unbolt and Extract the Factory Intercooler

  • The stock intercooler is held by two upper brackets (10mm bolts) and one lower bracket (13mm bolt). Use a ratchet and extension.
  • Once all bolts are removed, tilt the intercooler forward and lift it out. It’s heavy (15-20 lbs) – use two hands.
  • Inspect the stock unit for oil residue or damage. A small amount of oil mist from the PCV system is normal, but excessive oil indicates a failing turbo seal or PCV valve.

Note: The stock intercooler on earlier W213 E63 models (2017-2018) has plastic end tanks that are prone to cracking under high boost. Upgrading to a Wagner full-aluminum unit eliminates this failure point.

Installing the Wagner Tuning Intercooler

Step 4: Pre-Fit the Wagner Core

Before applying any permanent clamps, test-fit the new core. Wagner’s design is a direct replacement but may have slightly thicker core dimensions.

  • Carefully slide the Wagner intercooler into position. Ensure the inlet and outlet ports align with the charge pipe couplers.
  • Verify that the mounting holes line up with the factory brackets. Some kits include elongated slots for fine adjustment.
  • Hand-thread all mounting bolts to confirm no cross-threading.
  • If the fit is tight, loosen the brackets on the vehicle to allow movement. Do not force the intercooler – minor shifting of the radiator support may be needed.
  • Once aligned, torque the mounting bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench. Do not overtighten, as the aluminum brackets can deform.

Step 5: Connect Charge Piping

  • The Wagner kit usually includes new silicone couplers and heavy-duty stainless steel T-bolt clamps. Replace the factory rubber couplers if they show hardening.
  • Slide the couplers onto the intercooler ports first, then slip them over the aluminum charge pipes.
  • Position the clamps so they are over the raised bead of the pipe and the intercooler port. Tighten to 4-5 Nm (35-44 in-lbs) – finger-tight plus a quarter turn with a nut driver is sufficient.
  • Double-check that all connections are oriented without kinks. The silicone couplers should not be twisted.

Pro tip: Apply a thin coat of silicone grease (dielectric grease) to the intercooler ports to help the couplers slide on easily and prevent tearing.

Step 6: Reinstall Ducting and Sensors

  • Refit any plastic air guides that were removed. These direct airflow through the intercooler core.
  • If your vehicle has active grille shutters, ensure the wiring harness is properly routed and clipped. The shutters must be able to open and close freely.
  • Double-check that no hardware or tools are left in the engine bay.

Before reinstalling the bumper, pressurize the boost system to verify there are no leaks. A simple DIY method: use a bicycle tire pump with a boost leak tester adapter or a hand-operated vacuum/pressure pump.

  • Block the throttle body inlet and turbo outlet with appropriate plugs.
  • Pressurize the system to 10-15 psi (no more) and listen for hissing. Spray soapy water on all connections; bubbles indicate leaks.
  • Tighten any leaking clamps and retest.

If you don’t have a leak tester, start the engine after reassembly and use a smoke machine or listen for whistles under boost during a test drive.

Reinstalling the Front Bumper

Step 8: Bumper Alignment and Reconnection

  • With the intercooler installed and leak-free, bring the bumper back into position. Have a helper guide the bumper onto the guide pins on each side.
  • Reconnect all electrical connectors: fog lights, parking sensors, grille shutters. Push until you hear a click.
  • Secure the bumper sides with the T25 screws removed earlier. Do not fully tighten until the top and bottom are aligned.
  • Refit the under-tray screws (8mm) and then tighten the top bumper fasteners to 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the wheel well liner screws.
  • Inspect panel gaps around the headlights and hood. The bumper should sit flush. Adjust by shifting the bumper slightly before final tightening.

Common mistake: Over-tightening bumper fasteners can crack the plastic. Use a torque screwdriver if available.

Final Steps and System Checks

Step 9: Coolant Check

In most cases, the Wagner intercooler does not require draining coolant, but if you loosened any radiator connections during bumper removal, check the coolant level. Wait for the engine to cool, then remove the expansion tank cap and top off with Mercedes-approved coolant (G40). Run the engine with the heater on full heat to purge air pockets.

Step 10: Battery Reconnection and Initial Start

  • Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Torque to 8 Nm.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. Check for unusual noises or visible smoke.
  • Monitor the coolant temperature gauge and ensure it rises normally.
  • If the idle is rough, you may have a boost leak or loose MAF sensor connection. Shut down and inspect.

Step 11: Test Drive and Data Logging

Drive the vehicle gently for the first 5 minutes, then gradually increase throttle. Listen for any whistling or hissing from the intercooler pipes. Use an OBD-II scanner to log intake air temperature (IAT) before and after the intercooler. You should see a noticeable drop in IAT after hard acceleration (e.g., 20°C cooler under load).

If you have a performance tune, consider a few WOT (wide-open throttle) pulls in a safe area. The Wagner intercooler will maintain lower temperatures, allowing the ECU to keep timing advanced.

Conclusion: Reap the Benefits of Lower Intake Temperatures

Installing the Wagner Tuning intercooler on your W213 E63 is a rewarding upgrade that directly improves your engine’s consistency and power delivery. The installation, while labor-intensive, is manageable for a weekend DIYer with basic mechanical skills. The key is patience: take your time with bumper removal, ensure perfect alignment of the intercooler, and always leak-test before buttoning up.

After this upgrade, you’ll notice reduced heat soak even in summer traffic and more consistent quarter-mile times. For those interested in further modifications, the intercooler provides a solid foundation for stage 2 tuning and ethanol mixtures. To see dyno results and user reviews, visit Wagner Tuning’s official product page. For community insights, check the W213 E-Class forum on MBWorld where owners share their installation experiences and tuning data.

Remember to follow all safety precautions, and don’t hesitate to consult a professional if you encounter stubborn bolts or wiring complexities. Your E63 will thank you with cooler, denser air and the performance you bought it for.