Why Install a Comp Cams Stage 2 Cam in a Chevy Small Block 350?

The Chevy Small Block 350 is one of the most popular and versatile engines ever built. While it delivers solid performance in stock form, upgrading to a performance camshaft like the Comp Cams Stage 2 can unlock substantial horsepower and torque gains. This guide walks you through the entire process, from selecting the right cam to tuning the engine after installation, along with a realistic cost breakdown. Whether you're a seasoned mechanic or a dedicated DIY builder, this article provides the detailed steps and expert tips you need to complete the job successfully.

Comp Cams is a leading manufacturer of aftermarket camshafts, and their Stage 2 grind for the SBC 350 is designed for engines with moderate compression, aftermarket intake, and headers. It delivers a strong mid-range punch and a noticeable idle lope, making it a favorite for street-driven hot rods and muscle cars.

Comp Cams Stage 2 Cam Specs and What to Expect

Before tearing into your engine, understand exactly what you're installing. The Comp Cams Stage 2 cam for a Chevy 350 typically has the following specifications (always verify the specific part number you purchase):

  • Duration @ .050” intake / exhaust: 224° / 230° (typical for XE262 or similar)
  • Lift intake / exhaust: .462” / .469” (with 1.5 rocker arms)
  • Lobe Separation Angle: 110° - 112°
  • RPM Range: 1,500 – 6,000 (ideal with supporting mods)

This cam is considered a "performance street" grind. Expect a rough idle, noticeable power increase from 2,500 to 5,500 RPM, and a need for upgraded valve springs and possibly a stall converter if you run an automatic transmission. The Comp Cams Stage 2 is not a "drop-in" upgrade – it requires careful attention to valvetrain compatibility and clearances.

For exact specs based on your engine’s year and cylinder head type, check the official Comp Cams website or your cam card.

Tools, Parts, and Materials You’ll Need

A successful cam swap requires more than just a camshaft. Prepare this comprehensive list before starting:

Camshaft and Valvetrain

  • Comp Cams Stage 2 Camshaft (PN depends on application)
  • New valve springs (recommended: Comp Cams #981-16 or equivalent)
  • New lifters (hydraulic flat tappet or retro-fit roller – match cam type)
  • Pushrods (measure to verify correct length)
  • Rocker arms (stock or aftermarket)
  • Valve seals (if replacing springs)

Engine Components

  • Timing chain and gear set (double roller recommended)
  • Harmonic balancer (may need replacement if damaged)
  • Intake manifold gaskets
  • Valve cover gaskets
  • Timing cover gasket and front seal
  • Water pump gasket (if removing pump)

Tools

  • Socket set (metric and SAE) with extensions
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb and in-lb)
  • Camshaft installation tool (or long bolt with washer)
  • Harmonic balancer puller & installer
  • Valve spring compressor (for on-engine spring swap)
  • Feeler gauges, caliper, and dial indicator (for degreeing)
  • Engine stand or lift (if pulling engine)
  • Piston stop tool and degree wheel (optional but recommended)

Having a shop manual for your specific vehicle and engine year is essential. Summit Racing and JEGS are good sources for parts and tools.

Step-by-Step Installation Process

This guide assumes the engine is on a stand or you have adequate clearance to work in the vehicle. If the engine is in the car, expect to remove the radiator, grille, and possibly raise the front end for access.

Step 1: Preparation and Disassembly

Disconnect the battery and drain the coolant and oil. Remove the intake manifold, valve covers, and all accessories (alternator, power steering, etc.). If the engine is in the car, remove the radiator and fan for access to the timing cover.

Remove the distributor and note the rotor position (marks on the housing help reinstall later). Unbolt the harmonic balancer using a puller. Then remove the timing cover, water pump, and timing chain cover.

Step 2: Remove the Timing Chain and Old Camshaft

With the timing cover off, rotate the engine to top dead center (TDC) on cylinder #1. Align the timing marks on the crank and cam gears. Remove the timing chain tensioner (if equipped) and the timing chain set. Carefully slide the old camshaft out, taking care not to damage the cam bearings. Inspect the old cam and lifters for wear – if any lobe is damaged, inspect oiling system and bearings.

Step 3: Install the New Camshaft and Timing Set

Lubricate the new Comp Cams Stage 2 camshaft lobes with high-quality moly-based assembly lube. Also coat the distributor drive gear and bearing journals with clean engine oil. Carefully slide the cam into the block, supporting the front and rear journals. Install the new timing chain and gears, aligning the dot marks per the manufacturer’s instructions (usually cam dot at 12 o‘clock, crank dot at 6 o’clock or 12 and 12 depending on the set). Install a new timing cover seal and the cover. Torque all bolts to specs from your service manual.

Important: If you’re using a double-roller timing chain, you may need to clearance the timing cover or use a cover with a bulge. Test-fit before final installation.

Step 4: Valve Springs, Lifters, and Pushrods

The Comp Cams Stage 2 cam requires higher valve spring pressure to prevent valve float at high RPM. Replace stock springs with the recommended set. Use a valve spring compressor to swap them without removing the heads. Also replace the valve seals.

Install new lifters (soak hydraulic lifters in engine oil for 30 minutes before installation). Ensure each lifter goes into its original bore or a cleaned bore. On a flat tappet cam, use new lifters – never reuse with a new cam. For retro-fit roller cams, follow manufacturer’s instructions for link bars and tie bars.

Install pushrods. Check pushrod length if you changed cylinder heads or deck height. Adjust rocker arms to the correct preload (typically 1/2 turn past zero lash for hydraulic lifters).

To realize the full potential of the Stage 2 cam, you should degree it. This process ensures the cam is installed at the correct intake centerline. Use a degree wheel, piston stop, and dial indicator on the #1 intake lifter. Follow the cam card instructions to check intake centerline. If it’s off, you can advance or retard the cam using offset bushings or a multi-keyway crank gear. This step is critical for tuning the powerband to your specific setup.

Many enthusiasts skip degreeing, but for a performance cam like this, it’s time well spent. A well-degreed cam can mean 10-15 peak horsepower difference.

Step 6: Reassembly and Final Checks

Reinstall the intake manifold with a new gasket and proper sealant. Torque in sequence. Install valve covers, water pump, harmonic balancer (use the installer tool to seat it), and all accessories. Fill the engine with new oil and a quality filter – use a high-ZDDP break-in oil for flat tappet cams. Fill coolant.

Reconnect battery, set ignition timing to initial spec (usually 10-12° BTDC with vacuum advance disconnected). Start engine and immediately bring RPM to 2,000-2,500 for the first 20 minutes to break in the cam. Do not let it idle. Monitor oil pressure, coolant temp, and listen for unusual noises.

After break-in, adjust idle speed and mixture if needed. Check for leaks and re-torque intake bolts after hot/cold cycles.

Cost Breakdown

Below is a realistic cost estimate for a DIY installation. Prices vary by region and brand choice. If you pay a shop, add 8-12 hours of labor.

Item Estimated Cost
Comp Cams Stage 2 Camshaft $300 - $400
Valve Springs & Retainers $100 - $180
Lifters (set of 16) $60 - $150
Timing Chain Set (double roller) $60 - $120
Gaskets & Seals (full set) $60 - $100
Oil, Filter, Assembly Lube $40 - $70
Specialty Tools (if not owned) $50 - $200
Miscellaneous (bolts, sealant, etc.) $30
Total DIY Estimate $700 - $1,150

If you need to upgrade the intake manifold, carburetor, headers, or torque converter to complement the cam, budget an additional $500–$1,500. A professional tune and dyno session runs about $400–$600.

Supporting Mods and Tuning

The Comp Cams Stage 2 cam will be choked by stock intake and exhaust. At minimum, pair it with a dual-plane intake manifold (e.g., Edelbrock Performer RPM), 600-650 cfm carburetor, and headers. An automatic transmission will benefit from a stall converter around 2,800–3,200 RPM. The stock fuel system and ignition can usually handle this cam, but upgrading to a higher-output distributor and coil will improve reliability.

After installation, re-curve the distributor for optimal total timing (typically 34-36° total advance by 2,800 RPM). Tune the carburetor for idle mixture and transition circuit. If you’re running a vacuum advance carb, ensure the advance canister matches manifold vacuum at idle (often low with a big cam).

Common Pitfalls and Pro Tips

  • Piston-to-Valve Clearance: With aftermarket heads or decked block, check clearance at max lift. Use clay on the piston and rotate the engine by hand. Minimum 0.080” intake, 0.100” exhaust.
  • Lifter Preload: Too little preload clatters; too much holds valves open. Use a pushrod length checker and aim for 0.020–0.040” preload on hydraulic flat tappets.
  • Cam Break-In: Do not let the engine idle for the first 20 minutes. Keep RPM above 2,000 and vary it. Use a break-in oil with high zinc (ZDDP) to protect flat tappet lobes.
  • Valve Spring Install Height: Check installed height and shim springs to achieve seat pressure within 10% of spec. Incorrect height leads to spring bind or low pressure.
  • Distributor Gear Compatibility: Some Comp Cams use a different gear material (cast iron vs. billet steel vs. bronze). Ensure your distributor gear matches the cam gear to avoid rapid wear.

Final Verdict: Is the Comp Cams Stage 2 Worth It?

Absolutely – for a street-driven Chevy 350 that you want to wake up, the Comp Cams Stage 2 offers one of the best bang-for-buck upgrades. Combined with proper supporting mods, you can expect 40–60 horsepower gain over stock, a more aggressive sound, and excellent mid-range torque. The installation is not for beginners, but with patience, the right tools, and this guide, it's a manageable project that will transform your small block.

For more technical details and application-specific recommendations, visit Summit Racing's tech articles or search the Chevy Talk forums for real-world experiences from other builders.