Why Upgrade Your Acura TLX Type S with H&R Lowering Springs?

The Acura TLX Type S is already a potent performance sedan, but even the best factory setups leave room for improvement. Adding H&R lowering springs is one of the most cost-effective ways to sharpen handling without breaking the bank. For roughly $400 in parts, you gain a noticeable reduction in body roll, quicker turn-in response, and a more aggressive stance. H&R has been a trusted name in suspension tuning for decades, and their springs are engineered specifically for the TLX Type S, ensuring proper spring rates and ride quality. Whether you’re daily driving or hitting back roads, this upgrade transforms the car’s dynamics while keeping it comfortable enough for everyday use.

Benefits of H&R Lowering Springs

Before diving into the installation, it’s worth understanding exactly what these springs do:

  • Improved Handling: Lowering the center of gravity reduces body roll in corners, giving you more confidence at higher speeds. The stiffer spring rates also minimize weight transfer during braking and acceleration.
  • Better Aesthetics: The TLX Type S gains a purposeful, planted look with about a 1.0–1.5 inch drop. The wheel arches fill out nicely, eliminating the factory four-wheel-drive gap.
  • Increased Performance: H&R springs are designed to work with the factory dampers, so you don’t have to replace struts or shocks immediately. The result is a firmer but still livable ride that responds faster to steering inputs.
  • Cost-Effective Upgrade: At around $400, this is one of the cheapest performance mods you can do. Compared to coilovers ($1,500+) or full air suspension, springs deliver a high return on investment.

Tools and Materials Needed

Gather every item before you start. Having the right tools prevents frustration and ensures the job is done safely. You will need:

  • H&R Lowering Springs (part number specific to Acura TLX Type S)
  • Floor jack and two sturdy jack stands (minimum 3-ton capacity)
  • ½-inch drive socket set with extensions (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm common sizes)
  • Torque wrench (capable of 30–150 ft-lb)
  • Spring compressors (preferably a twin-arm type for safety)
  • Breaker bar or impact wrench (for stubborn bolts)
  • Pry bar or large flathead screwdriver (for separating components)
  • Wire brush and penetrating oil (for rusty fasteners)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Anti-seize compound and thread locker (optional but recommended)

Safety First: Preparing Your Workspace

Working under a vehicle is inherently dangerous. Follow these steps to minimize risk:

  • Park on a level, solid surface like concrete or asphalt. Avoid gravel or dirt.
  • Engage the parking brake and chock the rear wheels (if working on front) or vice versa.
  • Loosen the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground, then use the jack to lift the vehicle. Always place jack stands under the factory lift points — never rely solely on a hydraulic jack.
  • Before crawling under the car, give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
  • Wear eye protection when using spring compressors; compressed springs store immense energy and can cause serious injury if they slip.

Step-by-Step Installation: Front Springs

Removing the Front Strut Assembly

  1. Remove the front wheels and place them under the car as an extra safety barrier.
  2. Disconnect the sway bar end links from the strut. Use a 14mm socket on the nut, and hold the ball stud with a hex key or Allen wrench to prevent spinning. If the nut is rusted, apply penetrating oil and let it soak for 10 minutes.
  3. Remove the two bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle. These are typically 17mm or 19mm. You may need to push the knuckle downward slightly to free the strut.
  4. Remove the three upper strut mount bolts (12mm) accessible from under the hood. Support the strut assembly as you remove the last bolt, then lower it out of the wheel well.

Disassembling the Strut and Replacing Springs

  1. Place the strut assembly in a spring compressor. Compress the factory spring evenly — no more than half an inch per side rotation — until the spring is loose and can be turned by hand.
  2. Use a socket on the top nut (usually 17mm) while holding the damper shaft with a hex key. Unscrew the nut completely.
  3. Remove the upper mount, bearing, and spring seat. Carefully release the spring compressor until the stock spring is free.
  4. Install the H&R spring onto the strut. Ensure the spring end aligns with the lower seat notch. Place the upper spring seat and mount back in position.
  5. Compress the new spring just enough to thread the top nut onto the damper shaft. Tighten to the manufacturer’s torque specification (typically 28–33 ft-lb). Do not over-tighten — you can crush the mount.
  6. Slowly decompress the spring compressor and verify the spring is seated properly in both upper and lower perches.

Reinstalling the Strut Assembly

  1. Lift the strut back into the wheel well, aligning the upper mount holes with the chassis. Hand-tighten the three upper bolts.
  2. Guide the lower strut clevis into the steering knuckle. You may need to use a pry bar to align the holes. Insert the two bolts and tighten to 95–105 ft-lb.
  3. Reattach the sway bar end link. Torque the nut to 33–40 ft-lb while holding the stud.
  4. Install the wheel, hand-tighten the lug nuts, lower the car, and then torque lug nuts to 94 ft-lb in a star pattern.

Step-by-Step Installation: Rear Springs

The rear suspension on the TLX Type S uses a separate spring and shock setup rather than a full coilover, which simplifies the process.

Removing the Rear Springs

  1. Raise and support the rear of the car. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Locate the lower shock absorber bolts (usually 14mm or 17mm). Remove them to allow the control arm to drop.
  3. Support the lower control arm with a jack. Slowly lower the jack to relieve tension on the spring. Do not let the arm drop suddenly.
  4. Once tension is released, the factory spring can be lifted out by hand. You may need to unseat the rubber isolator.
  5. Inspect the upper rubber spring seat for wear. Replace if cracked or deformed.

Installing the H&R Rear Springs

  1. Place the new H&R spring onto the lower control arm perch. Make sure the pigtail end aligns with the recess.
  2. Use the jack to slowly raise the control arm while guiding the spring into the upper mount.
  3. Reinstall the lower shock bolts and torque to 55–65 ft-lb.
  4. Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Post-Installation Checks and Alignment

Lowering springs alter the suspension geometry, so an alignment is mandatory after installation. Driving even a few miles with incorrect camber or toe can cause uneven tire wear and poor handling.

  • Torque all fasteners — double-check every bolt after 50–100 miles of driving. The springs will settle, and bolts can loosen.
  • Take a short test drive on a smooth road. Listen for clunks, squeaks, or rubbing. If you hear any metal-on-metal contact, stop immediately and inspect.
  • Schedule a professional alignment within the first week. Tell the technician the car has been lowered so they can adjust camber where possible. The TLX Type S allows some camber adjustment at the front through the strut mounting holes, but rear camber may be slightly out of spec — that’s normal. Focus on getting toe settings perfect.
  • Consider re-torquing the top strut nuts after 500 miles; the spring settles and can reduce initial preload.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Not using spring compressors: Trying to disassemble a strut without compressing the spring is extremely dangerous. Always compress before removing the top nut.
  • Overtightening the top nut: The H&R spring may have a different free length than stock. Tighten the top nut only until firm — overtightening can damage the mount bearing.
  • Forgetting to lower the car before torquing suspension bolts: Rubber bushings should be tightened at ride height, not with the suspension hanging. This prevents premature bushing wear and binding.
  • Skipping the alignment: Even if the car drives straight, the camber change will eat tires within a few thousand miles.

What to Expect After Installation

Your TLX Type S will feel noticeably firmer, with reduced body roll and sharper turn-in. The ride will be stiffer over sharp bumps like expansion joints, but it remains compliant on most roads. H&R springs are designed to work with factory dampers, so you won’t experience the harsh bouncing that cheap springs cause. Over the first 500 miles, the springs will settle by about 0.2–0.3 inches, so the final drop will be slightly lower than initial measurements.

If you later upgrade to adjustable coilovers, you can sell the H&R springs easily — they retain value on the used market. For most drivers, however, these springs are more than enough for spirited driving and occasional track days.

Final Thoughts and Recommendations

Installing H&R lowering springs on your Acura TLX Type S is a weekend project that delivers a massive handling improvement for about $400. The process is straightforward for anyone with basic mechanical experience and the right tools. Take your time, follow the torque specs, and prioritize safety. Afterwards, a proper alignment is the key to making the most of your new setup.

For more information, check out the official H&R website for spring specifications and vehicle compatibility: H&R Springs Official Site. If you need torque specs for the TLX Type S, refer to the Acura service manual or trusted online resources like ShopDAP (a popular VAG and Acura parts retailer). Additionally, you can purchase the springs from Tire Rack or Summit Racing, both reputable dealers.

With the right approach, your TLX Type S will feel like a different car — tighter, lower, and more responsive. Enjoy the build.