Upgrading the suspension on your Mercedes-AMG E63 is one of the most effective ways to sharpen handling, reduce body roll, and improve the car's stance without sacrificing daily comfort. H&R Performance Springs are a popular choice among enthusiasts because they lower the vehicle by approximately 1.0–1.3 inches (25–33 mm), depending on the exact chassis generation, while retaining factory-like ride quality. This comprehensive guide covers everything you need to know to install H&R springs on your E63 AMG at home, from tools and safety preparation to front and rear spring removal and installation, post-install alignment, and break-in recommendations.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before starting, gather all necessary tools and components. Having everything on hand saves time and prevents mid-job trips to the hardware store.

  • H&R Performance Springs – part number specific to your E63 AMG generation (e.g., W212, W213, or C219). Verify fitment with H&R's official product lookup.
  • Floor jack and four jack stands – minimum 3-ton capacity. Do not rely on the factory scissor jack for suspension work.
  • Wheel chocks – to secure the rear wheels if lifting only the front.
  • Socket set – Metric sockets from 10mm to 22mm, including deep well sockets. E63 suspension bolts often use 16mm, 18mm, and 21mm.
  • Torx and hex bits – Torx T40, T45, T50; hex 6mm, 8mm for some sway bar link bolts.
  • Torque wrench – ½-inch drive, range 20–150 ft-lb. Accuracy is critical for suspension fasteners.
  • Spring compressor – two- or four-arm internal type that fits inside the spring coils. Never attempt to disassemble struts without one.
  • Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers – for prying clips and trim.
  • Breaker bar – 24-inch or longer for stubborn bolts.
  • Allen/hex sockets – for strut top hat bolts (commonly 6mm on Mercedes).
  • Penetrating oil – like PB Blaster or Kroil, applied 30 minutes before working on rusty fasteners.
  • Safety glasses and mechanic's gloves – compressed springs are dangerous; wear protection.
  • Shop rags or brake cleaner – to clean components before reassembly.

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation prevents damage to your vehicle and reduces the risk of injury.

  1. Park the E63 on a level, hard surface, preferably concrete. Engage the parking brake fully.
  2. If working only on the front, chock the rear tires on both sides. For rear work, chock the front.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. With air suspension models (some E63s), depressurize the system according to Mercedes service procedures. For standard coil‑over suspension, battery disconnect is optional but recommended to avoid triggering electronic ride-height sensors.
  4. Remove any under-panels that may obstruct access to strut tops (e.g., the plastic cover under the hood near the strut towers).
  5. Turn the steering wheel fully to one side for easier access to sway bar links and strut bolts.
  6. Allow the engine and exhaust to cool completely – especially on the rear suspension, where components sit close to the muffler.

Removing the Front Springs

The front suspension on the E63 AMG uses a MacPherson strut design with a coil spring mounted between the lower control arm and the strut tower. Please follow each step methodically.

Step 1: Loosen Lug Nuts and Lift the Vehicle

Use a breaker bar to break loose the lug nuts while the wheels are on the ground. Do not remove them completely. Then jack up the front of the car from the central jacking point or designated front jack pad. Place jack stands under the factory lift points (the reinforced pinch welds just behind the front wheels). Lower the car slightly onto the stands until secure.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

Fully remove the lug nuts and pull the wheels off. Store them out of your work area.

Use a Torx socket (usually T45) on the back of the ball stud while turning the nut with a 16mm wrench. If the link spins, use a second tool to hold the shaft. Set the link aside; you may need to replace it if the boot is torn.

Step 4: Remove Lower Strut Bolts

The lower strut is secured to the steering knuckle with two pinch bolts – typically 16mm or 18mm. Spray penetrating oil on them. Remove the bolts and slide the strut out of the knuckle. Set the drum brake line bracket aside if necessary (on some models, it mounts to the strut). Do not let the knuckle hang by the brake line; use a zip tie to secure it to the spring.

Step 5: Remove Top Strut Mount Nuts

Open the hood. Locate the three or four nuts on the strut tower. They are usually 13mm or 16mm. Hold the top of the strut piston from turning with a hex key (6mm) while loosening the center nut only if you plan to reuse the mount; otherwise, simply remove the outer nuts. Pull the entire strut assembly out from the bottom.

Step 6: Compress and Disassemble the Strut

Place the strut assembly in a vise or on a bench. Use a spring compressor to compress the stock spring until there is no tension on the top mount. Remove the center piston nut (18mm socket with a hex holder). Carefully release the compressor, then separate the spring, mount, and dust boot. Note the orientation of the spring lower isolator pad – it often has a notch that indexes to the strut.

Installing the H&R Front Springs

  1. Place the H&R spring on the strut. Ensure the lower coil sits cleanly in the lower spring seat. Apply a thin layer of anti-seize to the top mount's bearing surface if recommended by H&R.
  2. Compress the spring evenly using the compressor until you can install the top mount and retainer washer. Do not overcompress; compress just enough to thread the center nut by hand.
  3. Tighten the center nut to 30–35 ft-lb (check H&R instructions for exact value). Remove the compressor.
  4. Insert the strut assembly back into the vehicle from the bottom. Guide the top mount studs into the tower holes. Hand-thread the outer nuts loosely.
  5. Install the lower strut into the steering knuckle. Use new bolts if required (many manufacturers call for one-time-use bolts). Torque the lower strut bolts to 85–100 ft-lb depending on fastener size.
  6. Reattach the sway bar link. Torque the link nut to 30–45 ft-lb while holding the ball stud. Some models require a new nylon lock nut.
  7. Torque the top mount nuts to 15–20 ft-lb.
  8. Repeat for the other side.

Removing the Rear Springs

The E63 AMG rear uses a multi-link independent suspension with a separate spring and damper setup. The spring sits between the lower control arm and the body.

Step 1: Lift the Rear

Jack up the rear from the central rear jack point. Place stands under the rear lift points (near the differential in front of the rear wheels). Remove the rear wheels.

Step 2: Support the Lower Control Arm

Place a jack under the lower control arm (the arm that directly supports the spring). This will be lowered to release spring tension.

Similar to front, remove the rear sway bar end link from the control arm.

Step 4: Disconnect the Shock Absorber

Remove the lower shock bolt (18mm or 21mm). Push the shock up and out of the way. You may need to remove the top shock mount from inside the trunk or under the vehicle – be aware of trim panels.

Step 5: Lower the Control Arm and Remove the Spring

Slowly lower the jack under the control arm. Watch the spring as it lengthens. On many E63s, the spring can be removed by hand after the arm drops about 4–5 inches. If there is still tension, lower further. Remove the spring along with the upper and lower isolators.

Installing the H&R Rear Springs

  1. Place the H&R spring into the lower control arm seat, and position the upper isolator (if reused) on the spring top. Make sure the spring end aligns with the groove in the seat.
  2. Jack up the control arm slowly until the spring compresses enough to reinstall the shock absorber. Do not pinch the spring coil against the body.
  3. Reinstall the shock lower bolt. Torque to 60–80 ft-lb for most Mercedes applications.
  4. Reattach the sway bar link. Torque to 30–45 ft-lb.
  5. Repeat for the other side.

Reinstalling the Wheels and Final Torque

Once all four springs are installed:

  • Reinstall the wheels. Hand-tighten lug nuts until snug.
  • Lower the vehicle to the ground so the suspension is under load (the car resting on its own weight).
  • Using a torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 110–130 ft-lb (check your E63 owner’s manual for exact spec; typically 115 ft-lb for older models and 130 ft-lb for newer ones).
  • Recheck all suspension bolts after 50–100 miles of driving – torque drift is common on new installations.

Post-Installation Checks and Alignment

After lowering the vehicle, your E63's camber and toe angles will be out of factory specification. It is mandatory to perform a professional alignment. Drive gently to a trusted alignment shop, avoiding hard cornering or highway speeds until alignment is completed. Plan to have the shop adjust camber (if possible) and toe to within spec for lowered ride height. Many E63 models require aftermarket camber arms (such as SPL Parts or Meisterschaft) to bring rear camber back into alignment after a drop of over 1.2 inches. H&R springs are mild enough that factory eccentrics often suffice, but check.

Additionally:

  • Inspect the brake lines for proper routing – they should not rub against the tires or suspension components.
  • Check the droop limit – with the car lifted, ensure the dampers or axles do not bind. If they do, install no-droop straps (rarely needed with H&R springs).
  • Allow the springs to settle for about 200–300 miles before measuring final ride height. You will likely see an additional 3–5 mm drop after break-in.

Important Tips for the E63 AMG

  • Air Suspension Note: If your E63 is equipped with Airmatic (W212 E63 AMG S-Model or later), do not proceed with traditional coil spring replacement. H&R offers different lowering modules for air suspension. This guide applies only to coil‑over equipped models (standard E63 and E63 AMG from 2010–2016 plus some earlier). Verify before starting.
  • Torque Specs: Always refer to Mercedes-Benz factory service manual values. A generic reference is good, but official specs are safest. Consider subscribing to StarTekInfo for your vehicle’s specific torque charts.
  • Don’t Reuse Suspension Bolts: Many Mercedes suspension fasteners are single-use “TTY” bolts (torque-to-yield). H&R recommends replacing stretch bolts, especially the lower strut pinch bolts and sway bar link nuts. Purchase genuine Mercedes bolts or equivalent from a reputable supplier like ECS Tuning.
  • Spring Orientation: H&R springs are marked with “left” and “right” or have specific color codes. Do not mix sides – the spring rate and progressive winding differ between front and rear, and sometimes left vs. right due to offset loads.
  • Break-In Procedure: For the first 200 miles, avoid severe potholes, track driving, or loading the car to maximum weight. The springs need to settle into their seat.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will H&R springs void my warranty?

Aftermarket lowering springs may void suspension-related warranty claims. However, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act requires the dealer to prove the aftermarket part caused the failure. In practice, many owners have no issues, but it's best to check with your dealership.

Do I need to change my shocks?

H&R springs are designed to work with factory shocks. However, if your E63 has over 60,000 miles, consider replacing the dampers at the same time for optimal ride quality and to prevent premature failure from the slightly increased droop travel.

How long does the installation take?

For an experienced DIY mechanic, the entire job takes 4–6 hours. First-time attempts may take 8–10 hours. Always allow a full weekend.

Can I install H&R springs without a spring compressor?

No. Attempting to dismantle a MacPherson strut without a spring compressor is extremely dangerous – the compressed spring can eject at lethal force. Use a proper internal compressor or have a shop disassemble/reassemble the struts for you.

Conclusion

Installing H&R Performance Springs on your Mercedes‑AMG E63 is a rewarding upgrade that transforms the car's agility and visual stance. While the process is intermediate in difficulty, careful adherence to the steps outlined here will help you achieve a professional-quality result. Remember to prioritize safety, never rush the spring compression stage, and always schedule a proper alignment afterward. With the springs settled and alignment dialed in, your E63 will handle corners with greater confidence and will look lower, sleeker, and more aggressive – exactly what an AMG should be.