Why Upgrade to Performance Control Arms?

Your vehicle’s suspension system is a finely tuned network of linkages, bushings, and dampers that work together to keep your tires in contact with the road. Among the most critical components are the control arms—the pivot points that connect the wheel hub to the vehicle’s frame or subframe. Upgrading to performance control arms is one of the most effective modifications you can make to dramatically improve ride quality, cornering stability, and overall handling precision.

Factory control arms are engineered for a balance of cost, NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) suppression, and acceptable handling within the vehicle’s intended market. They often use rubber bushings that are compliant but can flex under load, leading to imprecise steering response and alignment changes during aggressive driving. Performance control arms replace these with stiffer, more durable materials such as polyurethane, spherical bearings (heim joints), or high-durometer rubber. They also typically feature stronger construction (e.g., tubular steel or aluminum) and may incorporate adjustability in caster, camber, or anti-squat geometry. This upgrade allows you to fine-tune your suspension for your driving style—whether that’s track-day precision, off-road articulation, or simply a more planted feel on winding roads.

Beyond handling, performance control arms can extend the life of your tires by maintaining correct alignment under dynamic loads. They reduce the amount of deflection in the suspension, meaning the alignment geometry stays true even when you push the car hard into a corner or hit a bump mid-turn. For enthusiasts who have already upgraded springs, shocks, and sway bars, control arms are often the missing link that ties everything together.

Benefits of Upgrading to Performance Control Arms

Installing performance control arms yields several concrete improvements that you’ll feel immediately behind the wheel:

  • Sharper Turn-In and Reduced Understeer: Stiffer bushings eliminate slop, allowing the front tires to respond faster to steering inputs. The car feels more “pointy” and eager to change direction.
  • Improved Camber Control: Many performance control arms allow for static camber adjustment. This lets you dial in negative camber for better cornering grip without wearing out the insides of your tires during daily driving. Some designs also feature elongated ball joint slots or adjustable ball joint mounts.
  • Better Ride Quality Over Imperfections: While some assume stiffer equals harsher, quality performance arms with properly engineered bushings can actually improve ride compliance by reducing uncontrolled wheel oscillations. The suspension moves in a more predictable arc, preventing the bumpiness caused by flexing rubber bushings.
  • More Consistent Alignment: Rubber bushings deflect differently under braking, acceleration, and cornering. Performance bushings maintain geometry more consistently, so your alignment specs remain stable. This translates to more predictable handling and reduced tire cupping.
  • Increased Durability: Factory rubber bushings can crack or delaminate within 50,000–80,000 miles, especially in harsh climates or with off-road use. Polyurethane and spherical bushings last significantly longer and resist fuel, oil, and ozone damage.
  • Weight Reduction: Many performance control arms are made from hollow tubular steel or aluminum, shedding unsprung weight. This improves ride quality because the suspension can react faster to bumps and reduces overall vehicle mass.

Choosing the Right Performance Control Arms

Not all performance control arms are created equal. Before purchasing, consider these factors:

Bushing Type

Polyurethane is the most common upgrade material. It offers a good balance between stiffness and comfort, and it’s available as a direct replacement bushing for stock arms or pressed into new arms. Spherical bearings (heim joints) provide zero deflection and maximum articulation but transmit more noise and vibration into the cabin—ideal for track cars that rarely see street duty. Spherical bearings with rubber dust boots offer a compromise. For daily-driven performance cars, polyurethane with a greaseable design is the sweet spot.

Adjustability

Determine what you need to adjust. Some control arms offer only camber adjustment; others also provide caster adjustability or allow you to alter anti-squat geometry in the rear. If your vehicle already has aftermarket camber plates or adjustable top hats, you may only need arms that replace worn bushings. For lowered cars, adjustable arms are often essential to restore proper alignment because lowering changes the suspension geometry.

Material and Construction

Tubular steel is strong, affordable, and can be designed to clear larger wheels or brake ducts. Aluminum is lighter and resists corrosion but is more expensive. Avoid “budget” arms made from thin-wall tubing without reinforcement around the bushing pockets—they can bend under severe loads.

Vehicle Compatibility

Make sure the arms are specifically designed for your make, model, and year. Some “universal” arms require modification that may compromise safety. Check forums or manufacturer fitment guides. Also confirm whether the arms work with your existing sway bar links, spring perches, and shock mounts.

Tools and Materials Needed

Having the right tools on hand makes the job safer and faster. Avoid using cheap sockets that can round off bolt heads.

  • Floor jack and two heavy-duty jack stands (minimum 3-ton capacity)
  • Socket set: ½-inch drive, metric and SAE, with deep and shallow sockets
  • Combination wrenches (ratcheting wrenches save time)
  • Torque wrench: ½-inch drive, range 0–150 ft-lb, preferably click-type
  • Allen keys or hex bits for bolt heads
  • Breaker bar (2-foot or longer) for stubborn bolts
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench)
  • Dead-blow hammer or rubber mallet
  • Screwdriver set for prying boots and clips
  • Brake cleaner and shop rags
  • High-quality lithium complex grease or polyurethane-specific bushing grease
  • Safety goggles, mechanic’s gloves, and anti-fatigue mat
  • Vehicle-specific service manual or torque specs

Consider also a ball joint separator tool if your control arms use press-in ball joints that need to be removed from the steering knuckle. Some aftermarket arms come with new ball joints pre-installed, eliminating the need for this step.

Step-by-Step Installation Guide

These instructions assume you are replacing both front lower control arms on a common MacPherson strut or double-wishbone suspension. Adapt steps as needed for your specific vehicle. Always consult your vehicle’s service manual for any unique procedures or torque values.

Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle and Workspace

Work on a level, paved surface. Engage the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. Take a moment to loosen all lug nuts on the front wheels before lifting (but do not remove them yet). This is easier while the wheels are on the ground. Spray the control arm mounting bolts and ball joint pinch bolts with penetrating oil; let it soak for 10–15 minutes to break down rust and corrosion. Wear safety goggles and gloves throughout.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle

Position the floor jack under the front crossmember or the vehicle’s official jack point (not the control arm). Raise the vehicle until the wheels are just barely off the ground, then place jack stands under the manufacturer-recommended lift points (typically the frame rails or subframe). Lower the jack until the vehicle’s weight is fully on the stands. Shake the vehicle to confirm stability. Now remove the lug nuts and take off the front wheels. Set them aside where they won’t be in the way.

Step 3: Remove the Old Control Arms

Start by removing the sway bar links if they interfere with control arm removal. Then disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle using a ball joint separator or pickle fork. Be careful not to damage the rubber boots. In many vehicles, you can unbolt the tie rod from the knuckle without full removal, depending on access.

Next, locate the control arm’s rear (chassis-side) mounting bolt. This is often the largest bolt—typically 18mm to 24mm. Use the breaker bar and socket to loosen it. It may be tight from threadlocker or corrosion. Remove the bolt completely and set it aside with its washer or nut. Repeat for the front chassis-side bolt if your control arm has two chassis mounts (common on lateral links).

Now move to the ball joint that secures the control arm to the steering knuckle. Most modern cars use a pinch bolt design: a bolt clamps the knuckle around the ball joint stud. Remove the pinch bolt. You may need to tap the knuckle with a dead-blow hammer to free the ball joint taper. If the stud spins, use a jack to gently lift the control arm slightly while applying pressure—the taper often releases with a pop. If it’s stubborn, carefully use a ball joint separator tool but avoid prying against the ball joint boot.

Once all bolts are removed, the old control arm can be pulled out from under the vehicle. You may need to rotate it to clear the sway bar or stabilizer link. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.

Step 4: Prep and Install the New Performance Control Arms

Compare the new arm with the old one to ensure they are mirror images (driver vs. passenger side). Some arms are side-specific. Check that all bushing sleeves are clean and that any grease fittings are accessible. If the new arm uses polyurethane bushings, apply a thin layer of the supplied grease (or polyurethane-specific grease) to the bushing outer surface and the inner sleeve. Do not use standard lithium-based grease on polyurethane—it can cause swelling or degradation.

Position the new control arm so that the bushings align with the chassis mounting holes. Hand-thread the chassis bolts in place. Do not fully tighten yet—leave the bolts about two turns from snug to allow final alignment. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle. Install the pinch bolt and torque it to factory specification. If the ball joint uses a castle nut and cotter pin, torque the nut to spec then align to the nearest hole for the cotter pin. Never loosen the nut to insert the cotter pin.

Hand-tighten the sway bar link attachments if they were removed. Make sure no brake lines or ABS wires are pinched or stretched when the suspension moves. They should have a little slack at ride height.

Step 5: Set Initial Torque

Now tighten the chassis-side bolts to the manufacturer’s torque specification. These values are critical—they ensure the bushings are preloaded correctly and that the bolts won’t loosen. Use the torque wrench set to the correct value. Typically, these are in the range of 90–150 ft-lb for lower control arms. If your performance arm came with different bolts (e.g., Grade 10.9), use the torque specified by the arm manufacturer, which may be higher than stock.

If the control arm has adjustable camber (often via eccentric bolts or slotted holes), leave those bolts just snug enough to hold the arm in place but still allow movement during alignment. Do not fully tighten the eccentric bolts until the final alignment step.

Step 6: Grease Bushings (If Applicable)

If the new control arms have grease zerks, use a grease gun to inject lubricant into the bushings until clean grease oozes out of the relief ports. Wipe off excess. This step is essential for longevity and quiet operation. Even if the bushings are pre-greased, it’s good practice to pump a few strokes to ensure full coverage.

Step 7: Recheck All Fasteners and Connections

Double-check every bolt you touched. Ensure the ball joint pinch bolt is tight, the tie rod end nut is torqued (if removed), and any ABS sensor clips are reattached. Spin the wheel hub to make sure nothing is interfering with the rotor or caliper. Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground using the jack. Once the vehicle is on its own weight, torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to factory spec.

Step 8: Final Torque on Chassis Bolts (Ride Height Condition)

This is a commonly overlooked step. After the vehicle is on the ground (or at normal ride height on a four-post lift), loosen each chassis-side control arm mounting bolt about a half-turn and retorque it to specification. This ensures the bushing is not wound up under static load, which would cause premature deterioration and increased vibration. If the vehicle is still on jack stands, the bushings will be preloaded at full droop and may be stressed when the car is lowered. Performing this final torque step at ride height prevents that.

Post-Installation Alignment and Break-In

After installing performance control arms, a professional alignment is mandatory—even if you only replaced the bushings without touching the adjustment points. The suspension geometry will have shifted slightly during assembly, and your car may pull to one side or cause uneven tire wear. If your new arms offer adjustable camber or caster, the alignment technician can dial in the exact settings for your driving needs.

Alignment Specifications: For most street performance use, start with factory alignment specs and then dial in about -1.0 to -1.5 degrees of front camber (if adjustable) and 0 to +0.5 degrees of rear camber. Toe should be set to zero or slight toe-in for stability. Tell your alignment shop that the control arms are new and may need a few hundred miles to settle the bushings. They can ask you to return after break-in for a final check.

Break-In Period: Polyurethane bushings benefit from a “break-in” process where they heat-cycle and conform to their installed positions. For the first 300–500 miles, avoid hard cornering, launch starts, and excessive speed over bumps. Inspect the arms for any loose bolts after the first 50 miles. After 500 miles, retorque all chassis bolts again (again at ride height) to ensure nothing has loosened.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Over-Tightening Bolts Without Grease: Bolts must be torqued dry or with only the specified lubricant. Wet torque can exceed the stretch limit of the bolt, leading to failure.
  • Neglecting the Final Torque at Ride Height: As noted, failing to loosen and retorque the control arm bolts after lowering the car will cause bushing bind. This reduces ride quality and bushing life.
  • Ignoring Ball Joint Angle: Some lowered vehicles cause the control arm to operate outside its designed range of motion. This can lead to ball joint binding or suspension bottoming. If your performance arms have high-angle ball joints, make sure the alignment shop knows and doesn’t over-travel them.
  • Using Wrong Grease on Polyurethane: Standard grease can cause polyurethane to swell and soften. Always use a grease formulated for polyurethane (usually silicone- or molybdenum-based).
  • Skipping the Post-Installation Alignment: Even if the arms are “direct fit,” your alignment will change. Not getting an alignment negates many handling benefits and can cause dangerous handling characteristics.

Troubleshooting Common Issues After Installation

If you notice clunking noises, vibration, or poor handling after the installation, use this checklist:

  • Clunking: Check that all bolts are torqued to spec. Loose chassis bolts are the #1 cause. Also verify that the ball joint is fully seated and the pinch bolt is tight. If the noise persists, the bushing may be spinning inside its mounting bracket—ensure the arm’s bushing sleeve is properly aligned.
  • Vibration or Harshness: This often indicates bushing bind. Make sure the chassis bolts were torqued at ride height. If the vibration is only at high speed, check wheel balance and that the new arms didn’t alter the relative position of the wheel to a degree that creates a centering issue.
  • Pulling or Darty Steering: Immediate sign that alignment is off or that the control arms have introduced excessive negative caster in one side. Get a measurement on an alignment rack.
  • Uneven Tire Wear: If tires are wearing on the inner edges, camber may be too negative or toe out is excessive. Have the alignment checked and consider reducing camber if it’s purely a street car.

For more detailed information on bushing installation and suspension geometry, see resources like the Suspension.com Guide and the MotorTrend Bushing Basics article.

Maintenance and Long-Term Care

Performance control arms require minimal maintenance beyond what stock arms need, but a few practices will extend their life:

  • Lubricate greasable bushings every oil change or at least twice a year. One or two pumps is enough; over-greasing can rupture seals.
  • Inspect ball joint boots for tears or cracking. A torn boot lets in grit that will wear the joint rapidly. Replace the ball joint or boot immediately.
  • Check bolt torque at 1,000 miles and again at each tire rotation. Bolts can settle as bushings compress.
  • If you drive in harsh winter conditions, consider applying anti-seize compound to the bolt threads (where not prohibited by the manufacturer) to prevent corrosion seizing.

With proper care, a set of quality performance control arms will outlast several sets of tires and brakes, all while giving you a noticeably more connected driving experience.

Conclusion

Installing performance control arms is a rewarding project that transforms your vehicle’s handling and ride quality. By choosing the right arms for your goals, following a careful installation process—including the critical final torque at ride height—and scheduling a precise alignment, you can unlock the full potential of your suspension. Whether you’re carving canyon roads, tackling an autocross course, or simply want a more responsive daily driver, the effort pays off in spades. As with any suspension modification, patience and attention to detail are your best tools. Drive safely and enjoy the improved connection to the road.