Why Upgrade Your S2000 with Coilovers?

The Honda S2000 is celebrated for its razor-sharp handling and high-revving engine, but even a well-sorted OEM suspension can benefit from aftermarket coilovers. Coilovers allow you to dial in ride height, compression, and rebound damping to match your driving style—whether that’s aggressive canyon carving, weekend track days, or daily commuting. A properly tuned set of coilovers reduces body roll, improves turn-in response, and gives you the confidence to push the S2000 closer to its limit. This guide covers installation, recommended brands, and baseline settings to get you started.

Tools and Materials Needed

  • Hydraulic floor jack and two pairs of jack stands (rated for at least 2 tons)
  • Complete socket and wrench set (metric, 10–19 mm)
  • Spring compressor (if reusing OEM top hats or springs; many coilovers come pre-assembled)
  • Torque wrench (capable of 20–100 ft-lb)
  • Coilover kit (front and rear pair)
  • Anti-seize lubricant and thread-locker (medium strength)
  • Breaker bar for stubborn bolts
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) for rusted fasteners
  • Trim panel removal tool (to access rear top mounts)

Preparation

Before lifting the car, measure and record your current ride height from the center of each wheel to the fender lip. This gives you a baseline when setting new heights. Also note any existing alignment specs. Clean the work area, read the coilover manufacturer’s manual thoroughly, and verify that all adjustments (pre-load rings, damping knobs) are set to the recommended starting position before installation. If your coilovers use pillowball top mounts, apply a small amount of anti-seize to the mounting threads to ease future adjustments.

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

On level ground, break the lug nuts loose with the wheels still on the ground. Then jack up the front end at the factory reinforced jacking point behind the front subframe. Place jack stands under the front frame rails. Repeat for the rear, lifting at the differential housing and placing stands under the rear subframe. Ensure the car is stable—shake it gently before crawling under. Leave the wheels off for now.

Step 2: Remove the Front Wheels

Remove all lug nuts and set the wheels aside. This gives you access to the strut assembly, lower control arm, brake line brackets, and ABS sensor wiring.

Step 3: Remove Stock Front Struts

The front suspension on an S2000 uses a double-wishbone design with a separate damper and spring. To remove the factory strut:

  • Unclip the brake line from the strut body bracket. Do not disconnect the brake line itself—just free it so the strut can drop.
  • Remove the ABS sensor wire from its retaining clips on the strut.
  • If equipped, disconnect the sway bar end link from the lower control arm using a 14 mm wrench. The ball joint may spin; use a hex key to hold the stud.
  • Support the lower control arm with a jack (or let it hang, but be careful not to stress the outer ball joint).
  • Remove the two lower bolts (17 mm) securing the strut fork to the steering knuckle. You may need to spread the fork slightly with a pry bar.
  • Inside the engine bay, remove the three nuts (12 mm) holding the top mount. Have an assistant hold the strut from below as you remove the last nut.
  • Pull the strut assembly out through the wheel well. If it’s stuck, gently tap the steering knuckle to free the fork.

Set the old strut aside. If your coilovers use new top hats, discard the OEM top mount (or save as spare).

Step 4: Install Front Coilovers

Before fitting the new coilover, set the ride height roughly by adjusting the lower spring perch. A good starting point for street use is a 1–1.5 inch drop from stock. Use the pre-measured fender-to-center height as reference.

  • Compress the coilover slightly if needed (most are short enough to install without a spring compressor). Place the assembly into the strut tower from below.
  • Guide the top mount studs through the engine bay holes. Hand-tighten the three top nuts (torque to manufacturer spec, typically 28–32 ft-lb using thread-locker).
  • Lower the coilover fork over the steering knuckle. Insert the two bolts and torque them to the factory spec (usually 47–54 ft-lb).
  • Reconnect the sway bar end link to the lower control arm. Torque to 30–35 ft-lb.
  • Reattach brake line clips and ABS sensor wire to the new coilover body (if it has mounting points; otherwise zip-tie them securely away from moving parts).
  • Double-check all fasteners. Then move to the other side.

Step 5: Remove and Install Rear Coilovers

The rear suspension is also double-wishbone but the damper is mounted separately from the spring. Rear coilovers are usually two-piece (damper and spring separate) or a true coilover that replaces both. For true rear coilovers:

  • Access the rear interior panels to reach the top mount (behind the carpeted trim near the seat belt retractor). Remove the trim clips and pull back the carpet.
  • Unclip the brake line and ABS sensor from the rear damper.
  • Remove the lower shock bolt (14 mm) from the lower control arm.
  • Remove the two top nuts (12 mm) inside the cabin. Pull the old damper out.
  • Install the new rear coilover in reverse order, making sure to orient the adjustment knobs for easy access. Torque lower bolt to 40–45 ft-lb and top nuts to 28–32 ft-lb.

If your kit uses a separate rear spring, replace it now with the supplied spring and adjuster. Note that some rear coilovers require you to use the OEM spring isolator.

Step 6: Adjust Coilover Settings

Ride Height

Set all four corners to the same fender-to-center measurement (within 1/8 inch) before lowering the car. A common street height is a 1–1.5 inch drop. Lower than 1.5 inches may require a roll center correction kit to maintain geometry. After you lower the car onto its wheels, roll it back and forth to settle the suspension, then re-measure and adjust as needed.

Preload

Many coilovers require zero preload (spring slightly loose when damper is fully extended). Follow the manual: adjust the lower spring perch so the spring just contacts the upper perch without compressing. Over-preloading the spring can cause a harsh ride.

Damping (Rebound and Compression)

Start with the manufacturer’s recommended setting, usually around 12–16 clicks from full stiff for street use. For aggressive driving, add 4–6 clicks of rebound and compression. A good rule: count clicks from full stiff (clockwise until stop, then count counterclockwise). Write down your baseline and adjust in 2-click increments after a test drive. Never exceed the click-stop range—forcing past it can damage the valve.

For corner balancing, you’ll need a professional scales setup, but you can approximate by setting ride heights identically and adjusting preload to equalize cross weights. This step is best left to a shop with corner-weight experience.

Step 7: Reinstall Wheels and Lower the Vehicle

Hand-thread the lug nuts onto all four wheels. Lower the car completely and bounce the suspension a few times to settle it. Then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 80 ft-lb (use a torque wrench; 80 ft-lb is standard for S2000 wheels). Re-check all suspension bolt torques now that the car is under load.

Step 8: Final Checks and Test Drive

  • Inspect all hardware for tightness. Pay special attention to top mount nuts, lower bolts, and sway bar links.
  • Turn the steering lock-to-lock and check for any contact between the coilover spring and the tire or inner fender. If rubbing occurs, you may need a spacer or higher spring rate.
  • Take a slow test drive on a smooth road. Listen for clunks, squeaks, or metallic noises. If you hear anything, recheck bolt torque and ensure the spring is seated correctly.
  • After 500 miles, re-torque all suspension bolts (they may settle) and check ride height again.

Choosing the right brand depends on your budget and intended use. Below are proven options with links to official pages or trusted reviews.

BC Racing — BR Series

Offers a great balance of affordability and performance. The BR series features 30-way damping adjustment, pillowball top mounts, and stainless steel bodies. Many S2000 owners use them for street and light track duty. View BC Racing BR series for S2000.

Tein — Flex Z

Tein’s Flex Z uses a full-length adjustment system (ride height independent of spring preload). They are known for a compliant ride and 16-way damping adjustment. Tein Flex Z official page.

KW Suspensions — Variant 3

KW’s Variant 3 offers separate high- and low-speed compression damping, along with rebound adjustment. Ideal for serious track enthusiasts. They are pricier but provide excellent control. KW V3 for S2000.

Fortune Auto — 500 Series

Fortune Auto’s 500 series offers custom valving and swift springs. They are rebuildable in the USA. Their 12k/10k spring rates are popular for dual-purpose use. Fortune Auto 500 series for S2000.

Ohlins — Road & Track DFV

The top-tier choice for S2000 owners who demand the best. Dual Flow Valve technology delivers exceptional damping consistency. Ohlins are expensive but transform the car. Ohlins DFV for S2000.

These are baseline values for a street/track hybrid setup with a 1.2-inch drop. Adjust according to your preference and spring rates.

SettingFrontRear
Ride height (center of wheel to fender)13.5 in (343 mm)13.5 in (343 mm)
Damping (clicks from full stiff)14 clicks12 clicks
Spring perch preloadZeroZero
Camber (with aftermarket arms)-2.5°-2.0°
Toe0.05° toe out0.10° toe in

Remember: After any height change, a professional alignment is mandatory to prevent uneven tire wear and maintain handling balance. Camber and toe are especially sensitive on the S2000.

Post-Installation: Break-In and Alignment

New coilovers need a break-in period of about 500–1000 miles. During this time, the oil and seals settle, and bushings bed in. Avoid aggressive driving until after the break-in. Then return to the shop for a final alignment with corner balancing. Many performance shops specialize in S2000 setups and can dial in your settings for track or street use.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid

  • Forgetting to re-route brake lines and ABS wires properly—they can chafe on the coilover spring.
  • Over-tightening the top mount nuts; use a torque wrench.
  • Setting ride height too low without checking bump steer and clearance. The S2000’s suspension geometry is sensitive to large drops.
  • Ignoring the need for a sway bar end link relocation bracket if your car is lowered more than 1.5 inches.
  • Skipping the break-in alignment—bolt settle under load and can change specs.

Conclusion

Installing coilovers on your S2000 is one of the most transformative upgrades you can make. With careful installation, a quality brand like BC Racing, Tein, KW, Fortune Auto, or Ohlins, and a proper alignment, you’ll unlock the car’s true potential. Follow the steps above, double-check every bolt, and don’t rush the adjustment process. The result will be a sharper, more responsive S2000 that rewards you every time you turn the wheel.