Upgrading your B-series engine with Skunk2 camshafts is one of the most effective bolt-on modifications for unlocking real horsepower and torque. Whether you are building a street-driven hatchback, a track-day Civic, or a full race engine, choosing the right cam profile and installing it correctly can transform your engine’s character. This guide covers everything from understanding camshaft theory to a detailed installation walkthrough, supporting modifications, budget planning, and post-install tuning—all for a typical investment of around $1,200.

Understanding Skunk2 Camshafts for B-Series Engines

Skunk2 has built a reputation for precision-machined valvetrain components engineered specifically for Honda B-series engines (B16, B18, B20). Their camshafts are CNC-ground from billet steel or nodular iron, depending on the model, and are designed to optimize airflow through the cylinder head by adjusting valve lift, duration, and lobe separation. Unlike generic off-the-shelf cams, Skunk2 profiles are developed using modern valve-train dynamics simulation and track testing, giving you predictable gains across the powerband.

The B-series cylinder head is known for its excellent flow characteristics, but factory camshafts leave significant headroom. A Skunk2 cam swap can increase intake and exhaust flow by 20 to 30% percent compared to stock, depending on the stage. Before diving into installation, it’s important to match the cam profile to your engine’s displacement, compression ratio, and intended use.

Performance Gains and What to Expect

When paired with a proper tune and supporting modifications, Skunk2 camshafts deliver measurable performance improvements. The table below outlines typical gains for a mildly modified B18C (GS-R) engine:

  • Horsepower: Gains of 15–25% over stock (10–20 whp for Stage 1, 20–35 whp for Stage 2, and 30–50 whp for Stage 3 on well-built motors).
  • Torque: Improved low-end and mid-range torque, especially with Stage 1 and Stage 2 profiles. Stage 3 sacrifices some low-end for top-end power.
  • Throttle response: More aggressive lobe profiles sharpen throttle response, but require proper tuning and valvetrain upgrades.
  • Fuel efficiency: If you stay off the cam, Stage 1 and Stage 2 can actually maintain reasonable daily-driver fuel economy. Stage 3 will always be thirsty.

Real-world dyno results vary based on engine condition, compression, intake, exhaust, and fuel. Expect the biggest gains when cams are installed with a free-flowing header, cold air intake, and a standalone ECU tuned on a chassis dyno. Without a tune, you will likely lose power and risk engine damage.

Choosing the Right Camshaft Stage

Skunk2 Stage 1 (Tuner 1)

Designed for stock or mildly modified B-series engines. Stage 1 cams offer increased lift and duration without requiring upgraded valve springs or retainers. Idle quality remains close to stock, making them ideal for daily drivers and autocross builds. Expect a solid 10–12 whp gain with a good header and tune.

Skunk2 Stage 2 (Tuner 2)

A more aggressive profile that works well with bolt-on modifications and a mild bump in compression (11:1 to 12:1). Stage 2 cams require upgraded dual valve springs and retainers to prevent valve float above 7,500 rpm. They produce a noticeable lope at idle and shift the powerband 500–1,000 rpm higher. Gains of 20–25 whp are common on a properly tuned B18C.

Skunk2 Stage 3 (Pro 3 / Pro+)

Full race cams meant for high-compression, built bottom-end engines. Stage 3 cams raise the powerband to 8,000+ rpm and require extensive head work (springs, retainers, titanium valve keepers, optionally Ferrea valves). Expect idle to be rough and low-end torque to be soft. Gains of 40+ whp are possible on engines making over 200 whp, but drivability on the street suffers significantly.

Installation Step-by-Step Guide

Installing Skunk2 camshafts is a job best suited for experienced DIY mechanics. If you have never set valve clearance or installed a timing belt, consider having a professional do the swap. The steps below assume you have a clean workspace and all necessary tools.

Tools and Materials Needed

  • Skunk2 camshafts (matched intake and exhaust)
  • Metric socket set and ratchet (8, 10, 12, 14, 17 mm)
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb and in-lb ranges)
  • Camshaft installation tool or adjustable cam gear holder
  • New timing belt kit (tensioner, idler, water pump recommended)
  • Valve cover gasket set (cam plug seals, spark plug tube seals)
  • Engine oil (5W-30 or 10W-40 depending on climate)
  • Feeler gauge set
  • Assembly lube or cam break-in grease
  • Clean workspace and engine degreaser

Step 1: Preparation and Safety

Disconnect the battery negative terminal. Drain the engine oil and coolant if you are also replacing the water pump. Remove the valve cover, spark plugs, and any ignition components that block access. Rotate the engine to top dead center (TDC) on cylinder #1 by aligning the crankshaft pulley mark with the timing cover indicator. Verify the camshaft dots are pointing upward and aligned with the back of the head.

Step 2: Timing Belt Removal and Cam Gear Inspection

Loosen the timing belt tensioner and slide the belt off the cam gears. If using OEM gears, mark the orientation before removal. Skunk2 recommends using their adjustable cam gears (Pro Series) for precise cam timing. Remove the cam gear bolts (17 mm) using a cam holder tool. Extract the old camshafts by removing the cap bolts in a crisscross pattern, then lift the caps and camshafts straight up.

Step 3: Install Skunk2 Camshafts

Apply a thin layer of assembly lube to the cam journals and lobes on the new Skunk2 camshafts. Place the intake cam (longer duration, more lift) into the head, ensuring the cam cap bolts are torqued to factory specs (typically 7–9 ft-lb for cap bolts, or as specified in the Skunk2 manual). Repeat for the exhaust cam. Rotate each cam by hand to check for smooth rotation without binding.

Step 4: Timing Belt and Cam Gear Installation

Install the adjustable cam gears (if using) and torque the center bolt to 33–37 ft-lb. Install the new timing belt, ensuring it’s properly routed around the crankshaft gear, tensioner, water pump, and cam gears. Set belt tension per factory procedure (usually a quarter turn of the tensioner spring). Rotate the engine by hand two full revolutions and recheck that all timing marks align at TDC. Any misalignment means the belt skipped a tooth—recheck.

Step 5: Valve Adjustment

With the cams installed and timing set, adjust valve clearances. Skunk2 cams often require tighter than stock clearances; follow the spec sheet that came with your cams (typically 0.006–0.007 inch for intake, 0.007–0.008 inch for exhaust on cold engine). Use a feeler gauge and turn the adjusting screw until you feel slight drag.

Step 6: Reassembly

Replace the valve cover with a new gasket set. Reinstall coils, spark plugs, ignition wires or coil packs. Reconnect battery and fill with fresh engine oil (5W-30 conventional oil for break-in is recommended). Start the engine and listen for ticking or tapping. Allow the engine to idle for 15–20 minutes, monitoring oil pressure and coolant temperature. Shut off, recheck valve clearances after cooling, and tighten cam bolts one more time.

Supporting Modifications for Maximum Gains

Skunk2 camshafts work best when the rest of the engine is designed to take advantage of increased airflow. Budget for these critical upgrades:

  • Upgraded valve springs and retainers: Stage 2 and 3 cams require dual springs to prevent valve float. Skunk2 Pro Series springs and titanium retainers are a direct fit.
  • Adjustable cam gears: Skunk2 or similar adjustable gears allow you to dial in cam timing (advance/retard) to shape the power curve.
  • Standalone ECU and professional tuning: A Hondata S300, MoTeC, or Haltech Elite is essential for camshaft swaps. A base map from Skunk2 will get you started, but dyno tuning maximizes power and ensures safe air/fuel ratios.
  • High-flow intake and exhaust: A 4-to-1 header with 1.75–2.0 inch primaries, 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust, and a cold air intake complement the cams’ flow demands.
  • Increased displacement or compression: For Stage 3 cams, a 2.0 liter stroker or 12.5:1 compression is recommended to fully utilize the lobe profile.

Budgeting for Your Camshaft Upgrade

The $1,200 figure mentioned in the title typically covers the camshafts themselves (Skunk2 Stage 1 or Stage 2 retail around $500–$700), plus a timing belt kit, gaskets, and a basic tune. However, a complete and reliable installation often costs more when you factor in labor, adjustable gears, springs, and retainers. Here is a realistic breakdown:

  • Skunk2 camshafts (Stage 2): $600–$750
  • Timing belt kit (Gates Racing) with water pump: $120–$200
  • Valve cover gasket set: $40–$70
  • Dual valve springs and retainers (Skunk2 Pro): $300–$450
  • Adjustable cam gears (pair): $150–$250
  • Professional dyno tuning (Hondata S300): $400–$600
  • Labor (if not DIY): $400–$800
  • Total range: $1,200 (cams + basic components, DIY tune) to $2,500+ (full build with labor and tuning)

The $1,200 price point is achievable if you already own tuning software and handle the labor yourself, but be prepared to invest more for reliability and performance.

Common Installation Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

  1. Incorrect timing – Always verify TDC and cam gear alignment multiple times. A single tooth off can cause loss of power or valve contact.
  2. Using stock valve springs with aggressive cams – Valve float at high RPM will bend valves. Always upgrade springs for Stage 2 or higher.
  3. Skipping valve clearance adjustment – Loose clearances cause tapping and reduced lift. Tight clearances burn valves.
  4. Neglecting to deglaze cylinder bores – If your engine had old oil, new cam lobes and lifters need a proper break-in surface to prevent scuffing.
  5. Installing cams without tuning – Even Stage 1 cams need a recalibrated ECU to avoid lean conditions and detonation.
  6. Not using a cam holder tool – Stripping cam gear bolts is easy without a proper holder. Use a dedicated tool.

Break-In and Tuning After Installation

After the initial start, drive the vehicle gently for 500–1,000 miles. Vary engine speed and avoid sustained high RPM. Change the oil and filter after the break-in period to remove any metal particles. Then schedule a dyno tune session. A professional tuner will adjust ignition timing, fuel maps, and cam gear position (typically +2° to +4° advance on intake for mid-range torque, 0° to +2° retard on exhaust for top-end). Expect to spend 2–4 hours on the dyno to extract the full potential of your Skunk2 cams.

Final Thoughts

Installing Skunk2 camshafts on your B-series engine is a rewarding upgrade that brings serious performance gains—if done correctly. The key to success lies in selecting the right profile for your engine build, installing with precision, and completing the job with a proper tune and valvetrain upgrades. Whether you are chasing a 12-second quarter mile or just want a more responsive daily driver, Skunk2 cams offer proven results. With careful planning and a realistic budget of around $1,200 to $2,000, you can transform your Honda into a machine that pulls hard all the way to redline. Take your time, follow the manual, and enjoy the process.

For more details on specific camshaft specifications, valve spring options, and tuning resources, check the links below: