Upgrading the clutch in your second- or third-generation DSM (1995‑1999 Eclipse/Talon/Laser and 2000‑2005 Eclipse) is one of the most rewarding drivetrain modifications you can make. The ACT Evo Clutch – often referred to as the ACT XT or heavy‑duty organic/sprung 6‑puck for street/strip use – delivers a noticeably firmer pedal feel, smoother engagement, and the capacity to hold well over 400 whp without chattering on the street. This guide expands on every phase of the installation, from tool selection and flywheel preparation to torque specs, break‑in, and common pitfalls. Whether you are swapping a worn factory unit or building for boost, these instructions will help you complete the job correctly the first time.

Tools and Materials Required

Before you put the car on jack stands, assemble everything you will need. Missing a single tool can turn a two‑hour job into an all‑day ordeal.

  • ACT Evo Clutch Kit (includes pressure plate, disc, release bearing, alignment tool, and pilot bearing – verify your kit part number matches your engine/transmission; 2G 4G63 uses ACT 6‑puck sprungs, 3G 4G64 uses a different spline count)
  • Socket set – 10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, 19 mm deep and shallow, plus 12‑point 14 mm for flywheel bolts (if factory)
  • Torque wrench – ¼‑inch drive for small bolts (5–25 ft‑lb), ½‑inch drive for flywheel and pressure plate (20–150 ft‑lb)
  • Jack and jack stands (minimum 2‑ton capacity; never rely on a jack alone)
  • Clutch alignment tool (included with most ACT kits, but a cheap plastic one can bend – a metal alignment tool is better)
  • Brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner (for flywheel surface and pressure plate)
  • High‑temperature grease (moly‑based for input shaft splines, release bearing sleeve, and pilot bearing)
  • Safety glasses and work gloves
  • Pry bar or long screwdriver (for aligning transmission bellhousing)
  • Transmission jack (highly recommended – the AWD transmission on a 2G is heavy and awkward)
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your system; you may need to bleed the slave cylinder)
  • Flywheel resurfacing or replacement (if your flywheel has hot spots, cracks, or excessive wear)

Preparation Steps

Preparation prevents costly mistakes and ensures a safe work environment.

Work Area and Safety

Park on a flat, dry surface. Chock the rear wheels securely. Disconnect the negative battery terminal – this prevents accidental starter engagement and protects the ECU when undoing electrical connectors. Wear safety glasses when spraying brake cleaner or working under the car.

Lifting the Vehicle

Position the jack under the front crossmember (or subframe jacking point). Raise the car until the front wheels are about 12 inches off the ground, then place jack stands under the reinforced pinch weld points or frame rails. For AWD 2G cars, you may also need to lift the rear to drain the transfer case – but for clutch removal, the front can be lifted first.

On a 2G AWD, the transmission and transfer case share fluid. Draining the gear oil before unbolting the transmission reduces mess and weight. Use a 5 mm Allen key (or square drive) to remove the drain plug. Catch the fluid in a pan – you will reuse clean fluid later.

Remove the Wheels

Take off both front wheels. This gives you access to the axle nuts (if FWD) or the half‑shafts (AWD). A 32 mm socket is required for most DSM axle nuts. Removing the wheels also makes the bellhousing bolts easier to reach from above and below.

Removing the Old Clutch

Removing the transmission is the most labor‑intensive part of this job. Work methodically to avoid damaging wiring or hoses.

Disconnect Hydraulics and Sensors

  • Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission bellhousing (two 12 mm bolts). Leave the hydraulic line attached and carefully move the cylinder aside – do not let it hang by the hose.
  • Disconnect the backup light switch, neutral safety switch, and speedo sensor (if applicable) at the transmission.
  • On 2G AWD models, remove the starter motor (two 14 mm bolts) and tuck it out of the way.

Support and Remove the Driveshaft (AWD)

If you have an AWD 2G, you must drop the driveshaft. Remove the four 12‑point bolts at the differential flange using a 12 mm 12‑point socket. Slide the driveshaft back and hang it with zip ties under the car – do not let it bend the centre bearing.

Remove Axles

  • FWD: Remove the axle nut (32 mm) and separate the lower ball joint. Use a pry bar to pop the inner CV joint out of the transmission. You may need to remove the intermediate shaft bracket on the 4G67/4G63.
  • AWD: The axles are retained by C‑clips inside the differential. After removing the lower ball joint, pry the inner joints outward. AWD half‑shafts are longer – be careful not to tear the CV boots.

Remove Transmission Mounts and Crossmember

Place a transmission jack (or floor jack with a block of wood) under the transmission pan to support its weight. Remove the rear transmission mount (two 17 mm bolts to the crossmember, one 14 mm through‑bolt to the extension housing). On 2G AWD, the transfer case adds weight – support it too. Remove the front (driver side) mount bracket.

Drop the Transmission

  • Remove the bellhousing bolts. There are typically 8–10 bolts: four accessible from above (14 mm), three from below (14 mm), and two holding the starter plate. Use a wobble extension for the bolts near the firewall.
  • Gently pry the transmission away from the engine block using a pry bar – never hammer on the transmission case. Once it clears the dowel pins, lower the jack slowly.

Remove the Old Clutch Assembly

With the transmission on a bench, unbolt the pressure plate (six 12 mm or 14 mm bolts). Remove the clutch disc. Inspect the flywheel for glazing, cracks, or blue discoloration (heat damage). If the flywheel shows any wear, have it resurfaced (maximum step height 0.002″ as per factory spec). A new OEM flywheel is recommended if old one is beyond service limit.

Inspecting and Preparing the Flywheel

The flywheel is the foundation of clutch performance. A warped or worn flywheel will cause chatter, premature wear, and engagement problems. Follow these checks:

  • Visual inspection: Look for scoring, heat spots, or cracks. Any defect means the flywheel must be replaced.
  • Step height measurement: Using a straightedge and feeler gauge, measure the height of the friction surface relative to the crank flange. The factory range is 0.014–0.020″. If outside this, machine the surface evenly (maximum removal 0.010″).
  • Resurfacing or replacement: If you are using an aftermarket flywheel (ACT StreetLite or Fidanza), skip this step. For a factory steel flywheel, take it to a machine shop that can cut it on a dedicated blanchard grinder – never use a brake lathe.

Important: New flywheel bolts are recommended. If reusing, apply medium‑strength threadlocker (Loctite 242) and torque to 85 ft‑lb (2G 4G63) or 95 ft‑lb (3G 4G64). Use a criss‑cross pattern.

Installing the ACT Evo Clutch

Now it is time to install the new clutch. Clean surfaces are critical – any oil or grease on the friction face will cause slip.

Pilot Bearing Installation

The ACT kit often includes a new pilot bearing. Remove the old bearing using a blind‑hole puller or a socket slightly smaller than the bearing O.D. Tap the new bearing in flush with the crank surface using a hammer and a large socket. Lubricate the inner bore with a thin film of high‑temp grease.

Disc and Pressure Plate Installation

  1. Lightly sand the friction surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate with fine grit (200‑400) to remove any residue. Wipe clean with brake cleaner.
  2. Place the clutch alignment tool into the pilot bearing. Slide the clutch disc onto the tool – the sprung hub (if ACT 6‑puck) should face the transmission (away from the engine). The longer side of the hub goes toward the flywheel on some models – consult the ACT instructions.
  3. Position the pressure plate over the disc, aligning the dowel pins on the flywheel with the holes in the pressure plate. Hand‑tighten the six bolts.
  4. Torque the pressure plate bolts in a star pattern to the ACT spec (typically 23 ft‑lb for  M8‑1.25 bolts, 35 ft‑lb for M10). Over‑torquing can warp the pressure plate.
  5. Remove the alignment tool. Verify that the disc moves freely (no binding).

Release Bearing and Clutch Fork

Install the new release bearing (included) onto the clutch fork pivot. Grease the contact points with moly grease – but keep grease off the friction surface. On the transmission side, apply a thin layer of grease to the input shaft splines, again avoiding the clutch disc hub.

Reattaching the Transmission

This step often feels like a wrestling match, but patience and the right technique pay off.

Aligning the Splines

  • Place the transmission on the jack. Angle the input shaft so it aligns with the clutch disc hub. Rotate the output shaft flanges slowly to help the splines mesh.
  • Slide the transmission forward until the bellhousing contacts the engine block. Never use the bellhousing bolts to pull the transmission in – you can crack the housing. If it binds, remove, check alignment, and try again.
  • Once flush, install the bellhousing bolts hand‑tight, then torque to 60 ft‑lb (M12) or 35 ft‑lb (M10) per factory spec.

Reinstalling Mounts, Axles, and Driveshaft

  • Reattach the transmission mounts – torque the through‑bolts to 70 ft‑lb, crossmember bolts to 40 ft‑lb.
  • For AWD, slide the driveshaft back into the transfer case flange and install new 12‑point bolts (if needed). Torque to 35 ft‑lb.
  • Reinstall axles – grease the stub shaft splines lightly and press them in until the C‑clip snaps. Torque axle nuts to 170 ft‑lb (2G) or 185 ft‑lb (3G).
  • Bolt the slave cylinder back to the bellhousing (18 ft‑lb).

Fluid and Electrical Connections

  • Refill transmission fluid (use OEM spec: 10w‑30 motor oil for 2G FWD, or GM Synchromesh / Redline MT‑85 for AWD).
  • Reconnect all sensors and the starter motor.
  • Install wheels, torque lug nuts to 85 ft‑lb (2G) or 95 ft‑lb (3G). Lower the vehicle.

Final Steps

Once the car is on the ground, complete the following before starting the engine.

Bleed the Clutch Hydraulic System

If you opened the slave cylinder line or replaced the master cylinder, you must bleed air out. The 2G/3G uses a standard hydraulic system:

  • Fill the master cylinder with fresh DOT 3/4 brake fluid.
  • Have an assistant pump the clutch pedal 10 times and hold it down.
  • Open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder (8 mm) – fluid and air will exit. Close the bleeder, then release the pedal.
  • Repeat until no air bubbles appear.

Test Clutch Pedal Operation

Before starting, push the pedal several times to seat the release bearing. The pedal should feel firm with about 1 inch of free play before engagement. If the pedal is spongy, re‑bleed.

Start and Initial Test

  • Start the engine with the transmission in neutral and the clutch pedal depressed. Listen for any unusual grinding (indicates misalignment or binding).
  • Let the engine idle for two minutes, then slowly engage first gear – the car should roll forward with no chatter.
  • Perform a few gentle launches from a stop. Do not full‑throttle the car yet.

Break‑In Procedure

Breaking in your ACT Evo clutch properly ensures long life and optimal performance. Follow these guidelines:

  • First 500 miles (800 km): Avoid aggressive starts, extended slipping, and high‑RPM shifts. Use gentle engagement – think of it as bedding in brake pads.
  • Vary engine speeds: Do not hold a constant RPM for more than a few minutes. City driving with frequent stops is ideal.
  • No clutch dumps or hard drag launches – the pressure plate and disc need time to mate to the flywheel surface.
  • After 500 miles, perform 5–10 moderate‑load pulls (3rd gear from 2500–5500 RPM) to fully seat the disc.

Important: If you experience vibration or a burning smell during the first 100 miles, stop and inspect the installation – you may have a misalignment or a contaminant on the friction plate.

Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting

Even with careful installation, issues can arise. Here are the most frequent problems and how to address them:

Clutch Pedal Stays on the Floor

  • Usually a hydraulic issue: air in the line or a worn master cylinder. Re‑bleed the system. If the pedal still drops, replace the master cylinder (common on high‑mileage 2Gs).

Chattering on Takeoff

  • Check flywheel step height – if too much, the release bearing cannot separate the disc fully. Also verify that the pressure plate bolts are evenly torqued.
  • If the disc is an unsprung 6‑puck, some chatter is normal – but excessive shudders indicate misalignment or a warped flywheel.

Clutch Slipping Under Power

  • Break‑in not complete? Continue the 500‑mile procedure. If slip persists after break‑in, verify that the hydraulic system is fully releasing – the slave cylinder may need adjustment or the master cylinder pushrod may be too short.

Hard to Get into Gear

  • Synchro wear? Or the clutch may not be disengaging due to air in the line or a bent release fork.

External Resources

For additional technical specs and community support, refer to these links:

Conclusion

Installing an ACT Evo Clutch on your 2G or 3G DSM is a weekend‑doable project that transforms the driving experience. By carefully preparing your workspace, following the correct torque sequence, and respecting the break‑in period, you will enjoy a clutch that hooks hard on the street and track without sacrificing daily civility. Keep this guide handy while you work, and do not hesitate to consult the linked resources if you encounter an unfamiliar step. A properly installed ACT clutch will reward you with thousands of miles of reliable, high‑performance driving.