exhaust-systems
Installing the Fa24 Cold Air Intake: Step-by-step Guide and Expected Horsepower Boost
Table of Contents
Introduction to the FA24 Cold Air Intake
Upgrading your engine’s induction system with a quality cold air intake (CAI) is one of the most popular first steps for enthusiasts looking to unlock more power from the FA24 powerplant found in vehicles like the Subaru BRZ, Toyota GR86, and certain Subaru models. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step installation walkthrough for a typical FA24 cold air intake kit, along with realistic expectations for horsepower gains, dyno-verified data, and essential tuning considerations. Whether you’re a seasoned DIYer or a first-time modifier, this article delivers practical advice to get the job done right.
How a Cold Air Intake Boosts FA24 Performance
Cold air intakes replace the restrictive factory airbox and snorkel with larger-diameter intake tubing, a high-flow air filter, and a heat-shield that separates the filter from engine bay heat. The goal is to draw denser, cooler air from outside the engine compartment, improving the air-fuel mixture’s oxygen content. The FA24 engine responds well to increased airflow because its high-compression design and direct injection system can leverage the extra oxygen to produce more complete combustion. Resulting gains typically include:
- Peak horsepower increases of 8–18 hp at the wheels (after proper tuning).
- Improved throttle response due to reduced intake restriction.
- More aggressive intake sound under acceleration.
- Potential torque gains in the mid-range, especially with a quality tune.
That said, without ECU calibration (tuning), many FA24 cold air intakes will not deliver their full potential and may even cause the engine to run lean or trigger a check engine light. This article will cover both “off-the-shelf” and tune-required scenarios.
FA24 Cold Air Intake Kit Contents (Typical)
Before you start, unbox your kit and verify you have all components. A complete FA24 cold air intake kit generally includes:
- Aluminum or carbon fiber intake tube (one or two pieces).
- High-flow conical air filter (dry or oiled).
- Heat shield with mounting brackets and gaskets.
- Silicone couplers (to connect the tube to the throttle body and MAF sensor housing).
- Stainless steel worm-gear clamps.
- Hardware kit (bolts, nuts, washers, zip ties).
- MAF sensor adapter plate (some designs).
- Instruction manual (keep this handy).
Required Tools and Materials
- 3/8″ socket wrench and extension bar.
- 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm sockets (confirm exact sizes for your vehicle).
- Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers.
- Torque wrench (recommended for critical fasteners).
- Pickle fork or trim removal tool (for factory push pins).
- Shop towels and safety glasses.
- Rubbing alcohol and clean rag (to prep silicone coupler surfaces).
- Anti-sieze compound (optional, for bolts).
- Voltmeter or OBD-II scanner to reset ECU after installation.
Step-by-Step Installation Guide
1. Safety and Preparation
Park the vehicle on a level surface and apply the parking brake. Let the engine cool completely—hot engine components can cause burns. Disconnect the negative battery terminal (using a 10mm wrench) to prevent accidental airbag deployment or electrical shorts during MAF sensor handling. Remove any engine cover or sound tube if present (common on BRZ/GR86).
2. Remove the Factory Air Intake System
Start by loosening the hose clamp that secures the factory intake tube to the throttle body. Use a flathead screwdriver or socket to open the clamp completely. Next, unplug the mass airflow (MAF) sensor connector—press the locking tab and pull firmly. On the FA24, the MAF sensor is located in the intake tube just before the airbox. Remove the airbox lid by unscrewing the bolts or releasing the clips. Lift out the factory air filter, then remove the lower airbox tray (usually secured by two 10mm bolts or push pins). Finally, remove the entire intake tube assembly by pulling it from the throttle body and the resonator (if equipped). You may need to remove a bracket or sound tube to free the tube. Set all factory parts aside; some owners reinstall them before dealer visits.
3. Transfer the MAF Sensor
Carefully extract the MAF sensor from the factory intake tube. Use a Torx driver (typically T20 or T25) to remove the two screws holding the sensor in place. Inspect the sensor element for debris—clean it with MAF sensor cleaner if necessary. Install the MAF sensor into the provided adapter or directly into the new intake tube if it has a bung. Use the screws from the OE position; apply a small dab of blue Loctite if desired, but do not overtighten. Ensure the sensor is oriented exactly as it was originally (airflow direction arrow on the sensor body points toward the engine).
4. Mount the Heat Shield
Most FA24 cold air intake kits include an aluminum or composite heat shield that bolts to the existing studs or holes where the factory airbox resided. Position the heat shield so it creates a barrier between the filter and the hot engine block. Do not fully tighten the bolts yet—leave them loose to allow for alignment with the intake tube.
5. Install the Intake Tube
Attach the silicone coupler to the throttle body opening. Slide a clamp over each coupler end, but do not tighten. If your kit uses a two-piece tube, connect the sections with a coupler and clamps. Guide the intake tube through the engine bay, ensuring it does not contact sharp metal edges, the alternator belt, or the radiator fan shroud. Fit the filter end of the tube into the heat shield area. Slide the other end of the tube into the throttle body coupler. Adjust the position so the tube is supported by any factory brackets or provided brackets. Once everything aligns, tighten all clamps evenly. Torque to about 4–6 Nm (3–4.5 ft-lb) maximum—over-tightening can damage silicone.
6. Attach the Air Filter
Slide the conical air filter onto the tube’s inlet and tighten the provided clamp. Ensure the filter is not so close to the heat shield that it blocks airflow—leave at least ½ inch gap. Position the filter so it draws air from the front or side of the engine bay (through a hole in the heat shield or from behind the headlight area). For oiled filters, confirm the filter is pre-oiled and not dry; if using a dry filter, no maintenance is required at this step.
7. Secure the Heat Shield and Reassemble
Now tighten the heat shield bolts. Reinstall any brackets, clips, or sound tube seals you removed. Reconnect the MAF sensor harness until you hear a click. Double-check that the intake is not resting against any moving parts (belts, pulleys, fan). If your kit included a secondary air intake port or a crankcase vent hose adapter, connect those now. Use zip ties to secure any loose wires or hoses away from the intake tube.
8. Reconnect the Battery and Reset ECU
Reattach the negative battery terminal. Start the engine without touching the gas pedal. Let it idle for about 10 minutes to allow the ECU to adapt to the new airflow. Some aftermarket intakes require a throttle reset procedure: turn ignition to ON (not start) for 10 seconds, then fully press and release the accelerator pedal 5 times, then turn off. Start the engine and drive gently for 15 miles to let the long-term fuel trims stabilize. If a check engine light appears, scan the code—common DTCs include P0101 (MAF sensor error) or P0171 (lean condition), which often indicate a leak or need for a tune.
Dyno-Proven Horsepower Gains for the FA24
Real-world dyno tests on the FA24 (stock engine with no other mods) show the following:
- Without a tune: +0–5 hp at the wheels. Some gains shift the power curve slightly, but the ECU will cut timing to maintain emissions targets.
- With a performance tune (e.g., Stage 1 flash): +12–18 hp at the wheels, along with 10–15 lb-ft more torque. Peak gains occur in the 4500–6800 rpm range.
- With cat-back exhaust and tune: combined gains of 20–25 hp (intake contributes about 12–15 hp).
These numbers are from third-party dynos using 91–93 octane fuel. E85 tunes can yield higher returns but require upgraded injectors and fuel system modifications on the FA24. Keep in mind that ambient temperature and humidity affect results—cold air intakes shine on cooler days.
FA24 Intake Tuning: Why It Matters
The FA24 uses a mass airflow (MAF) sensor strategy. Changing tube diameter and filter flow changes the sensor’s voltage curve. Without tuning, the ECU can only compensate within a narrow range (fuel trims ±25%). If the intake causes a large deviation, the engine may run lean (high risk at high RPM) or trigger a code. Most reputable FA24 intake manufacturers provide a pre-calibrated ECU flash (via an Accessport or similar device) to correct the MAF transfer function. If you do not plan to tune, select an intake specifically designed to work with the stock MAF housing location and tube cross-section. Always verify with the brand’s compatibility notes before buying.
Maintenance and Care Tips
- Inspect the air filter every 5,000 miles. For oiled filters, clean and re-oil according to the manufacturer’s schedule (usually every 25,000–30,000 miles or after dusty conditions).
- Check all clamps and hose connections annually for loosening due to vibration.
- Clean the MAF sensor with approved cleaner at every filter change to prevent false readings.
- Keep the heat shield seal intact—if a foam seal peels away, replace it to maintain cold-air benefit.
- Consider a water-repellent sock if you drive in heavy rain; hydrolock is very rare with a properly positioned intake, but a pre-filter adds peace of mind.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Forgetting to disconnect the battery—can cause a check engine light if the MAF is hot-swapped.
- Overtightening silicone coupler clamps—this cuts into the silicone and creates vacuum leaks.
- Crushing the MAF sensor wires by routing the tube incorrectly.
- Installing the intake without a heat shield (even a partial shield) leads to heat soak and power loss.
- Skipping the ECU adaptation drive—the car may feel weak until trims stabilize.
- Assuming all intakes are CARB-compliant—if you live in California or follow emissions laws, look for an Executive Order (EO) number.
External Resources for Further Reading
- FT86Club – FA24 Intake Collective Thread
- Engineering Explained – Cold Air Intake Myths
- Perrin Performance FA24 Intake Data
Final Verdict
Installing an FA24 cold air intake is a weekend-friendly project that yields modest but gratifying gains in power and sound—especially when combined with a proper ECU tune. By following this expanded guide, you can avoid common pitfalls and ensure your intake performs as intended. Always respect the need for calibration, document your installation, and enjoy the fresh, cool air your engine breathes.