Introduction: Unlocking Performance with the RSI Performance Flywheel

The RSI Performance Flywheel is engineered to reduce rotational mass, allowing your engine to rev more freely and deliver power to the wheels with less inertia. By swapping a heavy factory flywheel for this lightweight, billet-steel or aluminum alternative, drivers commonly see peak gains of 20+ horsepower and improved throttle response. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step installation procedure so you can safely and correctly mount an RSI flywheel on your vehicle and start enjoying the performance benefits.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Gather the following before you begin. Having everything ready prevents wasted trips to the tool box and ensures smooth progress.

  • RSI Performance Flywheel (specific to your engine and application)
  • Torque wrench (capable of reading ft-lbs and in-lbs; ½-inch drive recommended for flywheel bolts)
  • Socket set (metric and SAE deep sockets; 3/8-inch and ½-inch drive)
  • Ratchet and breaker bar
  • Flywheel puller (if not included with the flywheel; check for a dedicated puller for your engine)
  • Engine support bar or transmission jack (for transmission removal)
  • Jack stands and floor jack
  • Flywheel alignment tool (often required for dual-mass or specific bolt patterns; RSI includes one with most kits)
  • Threadlocker (medium-strength, e.g., Loctite 242 or equivalent)
  • Shop rags, brake cleaner, and a wire brush
  • Safety goggles and mechanic’s gloves
  • Lubricant for pilot bearing (if applicable)
  • Transmission fluid (if removing transmission requires draining)

Preparation and Safety

Secure the Vehicle and Disconnect the Battery

Park on a level surface and chock the rear wheels. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and tuck it away to avoid accidental contact. This eliminates the risk of short circuits or airbag deployment while working around the transmission.

Raise the Vehicle and Support the Powertrain

If you need to remove the transmission, lift the front or entire vehicle high enough to slide under safely. Always use jack stands – never rely on a hydraulic jack alone. For rear‑wheel‑drive or transaxle layouts, support the engine with an engine support bar or a block of wood under the oil pan. For front‑wheel‑drive vehicles, support the engine from above using a load‑leveler.

Drain Fluids (If Necessary)

Some transmissions require removing the gearbox to access the flywheel. In that case, drain the transmission fluid to avoid a messy spill. For manual transmissions, have a drain pan ready.

Step‑by‑Step Installation Guide

Step 1: Remove the Transmission

Every vehicle has its own procedure, but the general steps include:

  • Disconnect the driveshaft (RWD) or axle shafts (FWD). Mark the orientation of the driveshaft before removal.
  • Remove the starter motor and set it aside; it often blocks access to the lower bell‑housing bolts.
  • Unbolt the bell‑housing from the engine block. Use a set of extensions and a universal joint to reach difficult bolts.
  • Support the transmission with a jack or transmission jack, then remove the crossmember and rear mount.
  • Slide the transmission backward carefully, lowering it slightly to clear the input shaft from the clutch disc.

If you’re working on a vehicle with a dual‑mass flywheel, the transmission removal process is identical, but be aware that the old dual‑mass unit is significantly heavier.

Step 2: Access and Inspect the Old Flywheel

With the transmission out, you’ll see the flywheel bolted to the rear of the crankshaft flange. Before removing it, inspect for signs of heat discoloration, cracks, or runout. Measure axial runout with a dial indicator if you suspect a bent crankshaft or warped flywheel (tolerance is typically less than 0.004 inches).

Also examine the rear main seal – if it’s leaking, now is the perfect time to replace it. A worn seal can contaminate the new flywheel and clutch.

Step 3: Remove the Old Flywheel

Lock the flywheel in place using a flywheel holding tool (or bolt a piece of angle iron to the engine block). Loosen the flywheel bolts in a criss‑cross pattern, then remove them. Pull the flywheel straight off – if it’s stuck, use a flywheel puller (some engines have threaded holes for a puller, others may require a harmonic balancer puller). Do not force it with a pry bar, as you risk damaging the crankshaft mounting surface.

Step 4: Clean and Prepare the Crankshaft Flange

Thoroughly clean the crankshaft flange with brake cleaner and a lint‑free cloth. Remove any old gasket material, rust, or burrs. Apply a thin coat of clean engine oil to the pilot bearing bore (if the bearing is separate) and to the crankshaft splines – avoid getting oil on the flywheel mounting surface.

Step 5: Install the RSI Performance Flywheel

Before placing the new flywheel, check the bolt pattern and ensure the flywheel’s locating dowel aligns correctly. Many RSI flywheels come with a dual‑mass conversion kit or additional shims – read the instructions carefully. Hand‑start the flywheel onto the crankshaft, tapping it gently with a non‑metallic mallet if needed. Never use excessive force.

Apply a small drop of medium‑strength threadlocker (e.g., Loctite 242) to each bolt. Using a cross‑cross pattern, tighten the bolts in three stages: first to 20 ft‑lb, then to 50 ft‑lb, then a final torque to the specification provided by RSI (common values range from 70 to 90 ft‑lb for most applications, but always confirm the exact spec for your kit). Use a quality torque wrench for this critical step.

Clutch Alignment

If you are installing a new clutch as well, insert the RSI flywheel alignment tool through the clutch disc and pilot bearing to center the disc. This ensures smooth engagement and prevents drivetrain vibration.

While the transmission is off, inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. A lightweight flywheel often pairs best with a performance clutch kit. If the old clutch shows wear, replace it now – you’ll save a lot of labor later. For RSI flywheel users, a sprung‑hub clutch disc is commonly recommended to dampen engagement shock.

Step 7: Reinstall the Transmission

Carefully lift the transmission back into position. Align the input shaft with the clutch disc splines – wiggling the transmission may help. Do not force it; if it won’t slide all the way, the clutch disc may be misaligned. Once the bell‑housing contacts the engine block, install the bolts and tighten to factory torque specifications (commonly 30–40 ft‑lb for bell‑housing bolts). Reconnect the starter, driveshaft, axle shafts, and any sensors or linkages.

If you drained transmission fluid, refill with the correct type and volume. Fill plugs and drain plugs should be snug, not overtightened.

Step 8: Reconnect the Battery and Final Checks

Reattach the negative battery terminal and tighten securely. Before starting the engine, double‑check that all bolts (transmission mounts, crossmember, starter bolts) are properly torqued. Also verify that the flywheel inspection cover (if equipped) is reinstalled.

Post‑Installation Procedures

Initial Engine Start

Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for any metallic rubbing or scraping noises – a lightweight flywheel can sometimes cause a different gear rattle, but any consistent grinding suggests misalignment. If the engine runs smoothly, let it reach operating temperature and check for leaks around the rear main seal.

Clutch Break‑In (If New Clutch Installed)

A new clutch and flywheel need a break‑in period. Typically 200–500 miles of normal, varied driving (avoid aggressive launches or high‑RPM shifts). During this time, the clutch compound beds into the flywheel surface, ensuring consistent friction and long life.

Test Drive

Take the vehicle for a test drive on a quiet road. You should notice a quicker rev‑up, sharper throttle response, and improved power delivery. The stated 20+ horsepower gain is most noticeable in mid‑range acceleration and when merging onto highways. Also, pay attention to any unusual vibrations at idle – some lightweight flywheels can introduce gear rattle, which is normal and not a cause for concern.

Performance Gains and Real‑World Experience

RSI’s proprietary design reduces flywheel weight by up to 40% compared to OEM units. This directly lowers rotational inertia, freeing up engine power that was previously absorbed by the heavy mass. Independent dyno testing by RSI Performance has shown gains of 10–25 horsepower at the wheels, depending on engine size and supporting modifications. Throttle response improves because the engine accelerates faster in neutral and under load.

However, be aware that a lighter flywheel can make the engine more prone to stalling during stop‑and‑go driving until you adapt your left foot. Many enthusiasts consider this a worthwhile trade‑off for the performance benefits.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I install the RSI flywheel without removing the transmission?

In most vehicles, the flywheel is completely covered by the bell‑housing and requires transmission removal. Some rear‑wheel‑drive cars with separate bell‑housings may allow access after removing the starter, but generally plan on pulling the transmission. The step‑by‑step above covers the full procedure.

Will installing this flywheel make my car louder?

No – the flywheel itself doesn’t affect exhaust noise. However, a lightweight flywheel can cause more audible gear rattle from the transmission, especially at idle. This is a mechanical characteristic of reduced rotational mass, not a defect.

Do I need a new clutch pressure plate?

It’s strongly recommended to replace the entire clutch assembly (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing) when upgrading the flywheel. A stock clutch may not handle the increased power or the engagement characteristics of a lightweight flywheel. RSI offers matched clutch kits for optimal performance.

Conclusion

Installing an RSI Performance Flywheel is one of the most effective bolt‑on modifications for releasing hidden horsepower and sharpening throttle response. By following this detailed installation guide – removing the transmission, replacing the flywheel with proper torque, and reassembling with careful alignment – you can confidently achieve the advertised 20+ horsepower gains. Always reference the specific instructions provided with your RSI kit and consult a professional if you’re unsure about any step. With the upgrade in place, you’ll enjoy quicker acceleration and a more engaging driving experience every time you hit the road.

Additional Resources