Why Upgrade to a Nismo Suspension Kit?

Your Infiniti G35 already delivers a rewarding driving experience, but the factory suspension is tuned for a balance of comfort and cost. A Nismo suspension kit—Nissan’s in-house performance division—takes the G35’s handling to a new level. Engineered specifically for the V35 platform, the kit includes stiffer springs, high-performance dampers, and often revised bushings that reduce body roll, improve steering response, and lower the center of gravity. Whether you’re daily driving or hitting a weekend track day, this upgrade provides a more connected, confident feel without the harshness of a full coilover setup.

This guide walks you through the entire installation process. We’ll cover preparation, removal, installation, reassembly, and final alignment—including the critical torque specs every DIYer needs. By the end, you’ll have a G35 that corners flat and responds instantly to steering inputs.

Tools and Materials Required

Before you begin, gather everything you’ll need. Running to the hardware store mid-job wastes time and compromises safety.

Tools

  • Floor jack with at least 2-ton capacity
  • Two pairs of jack stands (4 stands total)
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm sockets (deep and shallow)
  • Combination wrenches: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Torque wrench capable of 20–150 ft-lb
  • Spring compressor (manual or hydraulic—never use zip ties or improvised methods)
  • Breaker bar (at least 18 inches)
  • Pry bar or flathead screwdriver for separating ball joints
  • Wire or zip ties to hang brake calipers
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Anti-seize compound (for threads that may rust)

Parts and Supplies

  • Nismo suspension kit (PN: NIS-CPK01 for G35 coupe/sedan; verify fitment for your year)
  • New strut mounts and bump stops (if not included — recommended to replace)
  • New nuts and bolts for knuckles (M12x1.25 – check kit)
  • Optional: aftermarket sway bar end links
Safety note: Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Always use jack stands rated for at least 3 tons per pair. The G35 weighs approximately 3,400 lbs.

Preparation Steps

Proper prep reduces frustration and ensures the job goes smoothly.

  1. Park on level concrete. Asphalt can deform under heavy loads.
  2. Chock the rear wheels if only lifting the front at first; the parking brake works on the rear discs, but chocks add security.
  3. Loosen lug nuts while the car is on the ground (one quarter-turn each) before jacking.
  4. Spray penetrating oil on all suspension bolts you’ll remove — especially the lower strut bolts, sway bar link nuts, and control arm bolts. Let it soak 15 minutes.
  5. Read the entire Nismo instruction sheet. Note any torque values provided; supplement with factory service manual specs if needed.

Step 1: Lifting the Vehicle

You’ll need access to all four corners. Lifting the entire car at once is ideal, but if you only have two jack stands, work front then rear.

  • Locate the front and rear jacking points: the front crossmember and the rear differential housing (on RWD G35s). Never jack under the oil pan or subframe rails.
  • Lift at the front crossmember until both front wheels clear the ground. Place jack stands under the designated pinch weld jack points (just behind the front wheels and just ahead of the rear wheels).
  • Repeat for the rear: lift at the differential housing, then set stands under the rear pinch welds.
  • Verify the car is stable: rock it gently before crawling underneath.

Step 2: Removing the Original Suspension

We’ll cover one corner at a time; the process is identical for all four. Start with the front struts.

Front Strut Removal

  1. Remove the front wheel. Set it aside (tire side up to protect the face).
  2. Detach the brake line bracket from the strut housing (10mm bolt). Do not disconnect the brake line — just free it so the strut can be lowered.
  3. Disconnect the ABS sensor harness clip from the strut (10mm).
  4. Remove the sway bar end link from the strut: use a 17mm wrench on the link nut and a 5mm Allen key to hold the stud. If the stud spins, use a second wrench.
  5. Separate the steering knuckle from the strut. There are two large bolts (19mm) connecting the knuckle to the strut bracket. Remove them. You may need a breaker bar; these are often torqued to 120 ft-lb.
  6. Access the top strut nuts under the hood. Remove the plastic cowl cover (if needed) and locate three 14mm nuts on the strut tower. Hold the strut shaft with an Allen key (usually 6mm) and loosen the center nut first, then remove the three perimeter nuts.
  7. Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well. It may require tilting to clear the lower control arm.

Repeat for the other front side. For the rear, the process is similar but the lower mount bolts to the rear knuckle (often 17mm) and the upper mount is inside the cabin (remove trunk side trim to access). Consult the factory service manual for rear-specific steps.

Step 3: Disassembling the Original Struts & Springs

To reuse your upper mounts or to swap springs, you must disassemble the old struts safely.

  1. Place the strut assembly in a spring compressor. Compress the spring until all tension is off the upper mount.
  2. Remove the center nut (usually 17mm or 19mm). Hold the shaft with an Allen key or impact gun (if available).
  3. Remove the upper mount, spring seat, and spring.
  4. Inspect the old spring: even if you’re replacing it, note the orientation of the end coil — the Nismo spring’s pigtail should sit in the seat similarly.
Important: Never cut coils or use open-flame to remove springs. Only use a proper spring compressor rated for the size. Coil springs contain immense stored energy.

Step 4: Assembling the Nismo Struts and Springs

Now build your Nismo strut assemblies. Follow the order:

  1. Slide the new bump stop onto the damper shaft (included in most Nismo kits).
  2. Place the dust boot (if supplied) over the bump stop.
  3. Compress the new Nismo spring with the spring compressor. Note that Nismo springs are usually shorter and stiffer — you may need to compress them more than the originals.
  4. Position the spring compressor so the spring sits correctly on the lower spring seat of the damper.
  5. Install the upper mount (reuse your original mount if in good condition, or install the new one if provided). Ensure the bearing is free and the mount’s alignment pin faces the correct direction (typically towards the rear of the car on front struts).
  6. Thread the center nut onto the damper shaft and torque to 33–44 ft-lb (verify with your kit’s spec). Hold the shaft with an Allen key.
  7. Slowly release the spring compressor. Make sure the spring is properly seated in the upper and lower perches.

Repeat for all four corners. Note the left and right orientation: some Nismo kits mark “L” and “R” on the damper body.

Step 5: Installing the Nismo Suspension Kit

Installation is the reverse of removal, but use fresh nuts and bolts if provided. Torque specs are critical for safety and proper geometry.

Front Installation

  1. Insert the assembled strut into the wheel well from below. Guide the top studs through the tower holes.
  2. Hand-thread the three perimeter nuts (14mm) onto the studs. Tighten them to 33 ft-lb in a star pattern.
  3. Lift the knuckle to align with the strut bracket. Install the two 19mm bolts (do not torque fully yet — allow the suspension to settle).
  4. Reconnect the sway bar end link. Torque the link nut to 35 ft-lb (17mm).
  5. Reattach the ABS harness clip and brake line bracket.
  6. Torque the knuckle-to-strut bolts to 120 ft-lb (19mm) with the suspension at ride height — you’ll do this after lowering the car.

Rear Installation

  1. For the rear, place the strut into the lower mount and loosely install the lower bolt (17mm).
  2. From inside the trunk, position the upper mount and install the center nut (14mm). Torque to 33 ft-lb while holding the shaft.
  3. Reinstall the trunk trim.
  4. Lower bolt torque: 90 ft-lb (17mm) — also to be finalized at ride height.

Step 6: Reassembly and Torque Finalization

With all four corners loosely bolted, reinstall the wheels and lower the car to the ground. The suspension must be under load before tightening the knuckle and control arm bolts. A common mistake is tightening these while the car is in the air, which binds the bushings and ruins ride quality.

  1. Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
  2. Lower the vehicle completely onto the ground. Bounce the front and rear several times to settle the suspension.
  3. Now torque the knuckle-to-strut bolts (front: 120 ft-lb; rear lower strut bolt: 90 ft-lb).
  4. Torque the sway bar link nuts (35 ft-lb front and rear).
  5. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 80 ft-lb (G35 spec: use 19mm socket).

Additional torque references:

  • Front lower control arm to subframe (if unbolted): 150 ft-lb
  • Rear upper control arm (if disturbed): 100 ft-lb
  • Rear toe arm (if adjusted): 55 ft-lb

Always refer to the Infiniti G35 factory service manual for exact specs per model year.

Step 7: Post-Installation Checks and Test Drive

Before driving, inspect every fastener you touched. Look for any interference between the tire and strut spring perch (especially if using wider wheels).

  • Turn the steering lock-to-lock to ensure no rubbing.
  • Check that brake lines are not stretched or pinched.
  • Verify the ABS sensor wire is routed away from moving parts.

Take the first test drive gently. Drive over a speed bump at low speed and listen for clunks or rattles. On a clear road, perform a few emergency braking tests (safe area) and pay attention to any pulling. The Nismo suspension will feel noticeably stiffer—that’s normal. Do not push the car hard until you’ve driven at least 100 miles to let the suspension settle.

Important: After 500–1000 miles, re-torque all suspension bolts. Springs settle and can slightly change preload.

Alignment Specifications

Replacing the suspension changes your G35’s alignable angles. Even if you marked old positions, an alignment is mandatory to avoid uneven tire wear and poor handling.

Learn how to align a lowered car or take it to a professional shop familiar with lowered chassis. Suggested alignment for a Nismo-equipped G35 (street performance):

  • Camber: Front -1.2° to -1.5°, Rear -1.0° to -1.5°
  • Toe: Front 0 to 1/16” total toe-in, Rear 1/8” total toe-in
  • Caster: As high as possible (factory spec or +0.5° over), typically 6.5°–7.5°

If you need camber adjustment beyond what the stock bolts provide, consider adjustable upper control arms (front) or camber arms (rear).

Performance Expectations and Long-Term Maintenance

The Nismo kit is designed for street and occasional track use. Expect reduced body roll (around 30% less), sharper turn-in, and improved high-speed stability. Ride quality firms up but remains comfortable for daily driving—unlike track-only coilovers.

Maintenance checklist:

  • Inspect strut boots every 10,000 miles for cracks.
  • Check torque on all bolts at each oil change.
  • Replace struts after 50,000–60,000 miles if they start leaking.

For more information on Nismo parts for your G35, visit the official Nismo website or browse technical discussions on myG35.com.

Conclusion

Installing a Nismo suspension kit on your Infiniti G35 is a highly rewarding project that transforms the car’s behavior from a comfortable cruiser to a capable corner carver. With careful preparation, proper tooling, and attention to torque specs, you can complete the job over a weekend. The result is a sharper, more engaging drive that honors the G35’s sporty heritage. Stick to the instructions, get a professional alignment, and enjoy the road ahead.