Understanding the Appeal of a Lift Kit for the F87 M2

The BMW F87 M2 is a driver’s car, known for its razor-sharp handling, rear-wheel-drive dynamics, and potent turbocharged engine. While it excels on asphalt, many owners are discovering the appeal of taking their M2 beyond the pavement. Whether you’re tackling gravel forest roads, navigating snowy backcountry passes, or simply want to reduce the risk of damaging the expensive front splitter and oil pan, a lift kit offers a practical solution. By raising the chassis 1.5 to 2.5 inches, you gain critical ground clearance without permanently modifying the unibody structure. This guide provides a thorough, step-by-step approach to installing a lift kit on your F87 M2, focusing on safety, precision, and long-term reliability. We will cover every phase from planning to post-installation testing, ensuring your M2 remains a capable and enjoyable machine both on and off the road.

Tools, Materials, and Safety Gear

A successful lift kit installation depends on having the right equipment. Do not compromise on quality—using cheap tools or substandard jack stands risks injury and damage to your vehicle. Below is a comprehensive list of what you will need.

Essential Tools

  • Jack and two pairs of jack stands – A low-profile hydraulic jack (minimum 3-ton capacity) is recommended for the F87’s 5.5 inch ground clearance. Use jack stands rated for at least 6,000 lbs each.
  • Metric socket and wrench set – Common sizes: 10mm, 13mm, 16mm, 18mm, 21mm, and 22mm. Include deep sockets for hex bolts on top mounts.
  • Torque wrench – A ½-inch drive torque wrench with a range of 20–150 ft-lbs for final tightening. A smaller ⅜-inch drive for lighter fasteners is helpful.
  • Spring compressors – Use high-quality screw-type compressors with safety locks. MacPherson strut applications require careful compression of the coil spring.
  • Pry bar and ball joint separator – For separating sway bar links and tie rod ends if needed.
  • Breaker bar (24-inch minimum) – Stock suspension bolts are usually torqued to high specifications and may be difficult to loosen.
  • Cutoff tool or angle grinder – In extremely rust-prone areas, some fasteners may need to be cut. Rare on an F87 but be prepared.
  • Work light and creeper – Visibility underneath the M2 is limited.

Lift Kit Components

Purchase a lift kit specifically designed for the F87 M2. Reputable kits include Bilstein, KW Suspension, or dedicated off-road brands such as Turner Motorsport or Ground Control. A complete kit typically includes:

  • Front and rear coil spring spacers or adjustable coilovers with extended travel.
  • New shocks or strut extensions.
  • Extended brake line brackets or longer stainless steel braided lines.
  • Alignment adjustment components (e.g., rear camber arms).
  • Hardware kit with nuts, bolts, and washers.

Safety Gear

  • Safety glasses – Flying debris and spring compressor failures are real risks.
  • Mechanic’s gloves – Cut-resistant gloves protect against sharp suspension edges.
  • Wheel chocks – Place behind the rear wheels when lifting the front.
Pro tip: Before starting, read the lift kit manufacturer’s instructions thoroughly. Torque specifications vary between brands. Have the vehicle’s service manual or a reliable online source (such as BimmerPost) on hand for factory bolt torque values.

Preparation and Workspace Setup

Preparation is the difference between a smooth installation and an afternoon of frustration. Begin at least two hours before you expect to touch a wrench.

Choosing Your Workspace

Work on a flat, level concrete or asphalt surface. Avoid gravel or uneven ground—jack stands can sink or tip. A garage with adequate ceiling height (at least 10 feet) is ideal. If working outside, choose a dry day to avoid rust on exposed fasteners and reduced grip.

Vehicle Preparation

  1. Park and secure – Engage the parking brake. Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  2. Disconnect the battery – Use a 10mm wrench to remove the negative terminal. This prevents accidental airbag deployment or electrical shorts while working near sensors.
  3. Remove the wheels – Loosen the lug nuts while the car is on the ground. Lift the vehicle using the jack points (front crossmember and rear differential). Place jack stands under the designated lift pads. For front, use front side jack pads; for rear, use the rear subframe jack points. Never support the car by the oil pan or transmission.
  4. Release tension on sway bars – If your lift kit requires sway bar drop links, disconnect them now. Removing the end links relieves preload and prevents damage when dropping the suspension.
  5. Clean all visible fasteners – Use a wire brush and penetrating oil (like WD-40 or PB Blaster) on shock top mounts and lower strut bolts. Let it soak for 10 minutes before attempting to loosen.

Removing the Stock Suspension

With the vehicle supported and wheels off, you can begin the removal process. Work one corner at a time to avoid confusion. Keep all hardware organized in labeled bags.

Front Strut Removal

  1. Locate the three nuts on the top of the strut tower (under the plastic cover in the engine bay). Remove them with a 10mm socket.
  2. Under the car, remove the two lower bolts connecting the strut to the steering knuckle. These are typically 18mm hex bolts and may require a breaker bar. Do not fully remove them yet—loosen them first.
  3. If equipped with electronic damping (adaptive M suspension), unplug the electric connector on the strut body.
  4. Use a jack to support the control arm slightly—this relieves tension. Then remove the lower strut bolts completely.
  5. Pull the strut assembly downward, being careful not to damage the CV boot. The top mount should now be accessible from above.
  6. Use a spring compressor on the front spring before removing the top mount. Compress the spring evenly until it is free of the perches.
  7. Remove the top nut (12mm hex) using a hex key through the piston shaft. Withdraw the top mount, spring, and shock as an assembly.

Rear Shock and Spring Removal

  1. Inside the trunk, remove the trim panels covering the rear shock towers. You will see two top mount nuts (16mm).
  2. Under the vehicle, remove the single lower shock bolt (18mm) that attaches to the rear knuckle.
  3. Lower the shock out of the vehicle.
  4. To remove the rear spring: Use a jack to support the rear control arm. Compress the spring with compressors. Lower the jack slightly to release tension. The spring will slide out.
  5. Detach the sway bar end link if still connected.
Important: Keep the original shock mounts and hardware in case you need to revert. Some lift kits reuse the top mounts.

Installing the Lift Kit Components

Now that the stock suspension is removed, the new lift components go in. Follow the kit’s instructions for specific spacer placement or shock absorber orientation. The following steps are general guidelines for most F87 M2 lift kits.

Front Lift Installation

  • Assemble the new strut – If your kit uses spacers on top of the spring, place the spacer between the spring and the top mount. If using longer shocks, install the shock into the spring after compressing using the spring compressor.
  • Torque the top nut – Use a hex key to hold the piston rod while tightening the top nut to the manufacturer’s specification (typically 25–30 ft-lbs for M12 x 1.5).
  • Install the assembled strut – Guide the top mount studs through the tower. Hand tighten the three nuts. Then align the lower strut holes with the knuckle. Insert the lower bolts and torque them to spec (often 70–80 ft-lbs).
  • Reattach sway bar end links – Tighten to spec. Some lift kits require adjustable end links to prevent preload at ride height.
  • Connect the electronic damping connector if applicable.

Rear Lift Installation

  • Install the rear spring with spacers – Place the spacer (if provided) on top of the spring seat or between the spring and the body. Compress the spring carefully with compressors, position it, and release tension slowly.
  • Install the new rear shock – Insert the shock from the top. Hand tighten the top two nuts. Under the car, attach the lower bolt and torque to spec (often 40–50 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall sway bar end links – Use adjustable links if included; set length to match new ride height to minimize preload.
  • Reattach any brake line brackets – If your kit included extended brackets, install them now to prevent line tension at full droop. If not, you may need to let the lines hang freely—double-check clearance.

Final Torque and Inspection

  • Go back and torque every fastener to the specified value. Do this with the suspension at ride height (not hanging) to avoid bushing bind. Place the vehicle back on the ground or use jack stands under the control arms to simulate load.
  • Check that all bolts, especially top mount nuts, are tight.
  • Ensure rubber bushings are not twisted or deformed.

Alignment, Brakes, and Other Adjustments

Lifting the F87 M2 will alter its alignment geometry. A proper alignment is critical for tire longevity, steering feel, and stability.

Toe and Camber Settings

Expect increased negative camber after a lift. Most lift kits include or recommend adjustable rear camber arms and front camber plates. Without them, the rear camber may be beyond spec, causing uneven tire wear. A typical street/off-road alignment might be -1.5 to -2.0 degrees front camber, -1.5 degrees rear, with zero toe or slight toe-in. Take the car to a reputable alignment shop that understands lowered or lifted BMWs.

Brake Line and ABS Sensor Care

Check that the brake lines do not rub on the tires or suspension components. If the kit does not include extended lines, you may need to zip-tie them away from moving parts. Also inspect ABS wheel speed sensor wires—lifting the car can stretch them slightly. Route them carefully to avoid chafing.

Headlight Adjustment

If your F87 M2 has adaptive LED headlights, raising the ride height will likely cause the low beam cutoff to shine too high, blinding oncoming traffic. Use the manual leveling screw on the back of each headlight housing to lower the beam to the correct height (typically 2 inches drop at 25 feet for every inch of lift).

Off-Road Considerations

  • Skid plates – The F87 M2 has no factory underbody armor. Consider adding an aluminum or plastic skid plate to protect the oil pan and transmission.
  • Tire choice – All-terrain tires in 255/40R18 or 275/40R18 improve grip on loose surfaces. These sizes fit without rubbing when combined with a lift.
  • Differential breather – For deep water crossings, extend the rear differential breather tube to prevent water ingress.

Testing and Validation

After installation, do not immediately take the car onto a highway or aggressive off-road trail. Follow a careful test plan.

On-Road Break-In

  1. Drive slowly (under 30 mph) for the first 5 miles, listening for clunks, rubbing, or unusual vibrations. Make turns slowly and brake gently.
  2. After 5 miles, recheck all suspension fasteners for proper torque. The components may have settled.
  3. Drive at highway speeds (55–70 mph) and note any wandering. A slight pull is normal if alignment is unfinished, but severe pulling indicates a binding suspension component.

Off-Road Evaluation

Find a smooth gravel or dirt road. Drive over small bumps and ruts at low speed to assess articulation and shock damping. Increase speed gradually. Listen for spring creaking or brake line interference. If the rear end skips laterally over washboard surfaces, the rear dampers may be too stiff for unloaded driving—consult the kit manufacturer about valving options.

Wheel Alignment Check

Visit an alignment shop within 100 miles of installation. Provide the technician with your target specs. If the shop cannot achieve proper camber or toe, you may need additional adjustable components.

Long-Term Maintenance and Reliability

A lifted F87 M2 will see different stress patterns. Plan for these regular checks:

  • Every oil change – Inspect all suspension bolts for looseness. Check CV joint boots for tears caused by increased operating angles.
  • Lubricate sway bar bushings if they are polyurethane.
  • Check brake pad wear – Heavier off-road use can accelerate pad and rotor wear.
  • Monitor tire wear – Alignment may shift slightly as bushings settle. Rotate tires every 5,000 miles.
  • Inspect shock and strut seals – Off-road dust can cause premature seal failure.
Note: Some aftermarket lift kits void the factory suspension warranty. Keep all original parts if you plan to revert.

Conclusion

Installing a lift kit on your F87 M2 transforms it from a canyon-carving coupe into a versatile overlanding machine capable of handling rough terrain without sacrificing daily drivability. By following the detailed steps outlined here—from careful preparation and precise torque to alignment and testing—you ensure a reliable, safe installation that will pay dividends on every off-road adventure. Remember that a lifted M2 requires a shift in driving technique: take corners more gently, watch for underside clearance, and service components more frequently. With the right approach, your lifted F87 M2 will reward you with a unique blend of BMW performance and newfound off-road freedom. For additional resources, consult forums like F87 BimmerPost and the SCCA RallyCross community for event inspiration.