The Infiniti Q60 Red Sport is a formidable grand tourer, but its 3.0-liter twin-turbo VR30DDTT engine leaves considerable headroom for power increases. The HKS Supercharger Kit is one of the most comprehensive forced-induction upgrades available, replacing the stock turbos with a high-flow centrifugal supercharger setup designed to deliver consistent, linear power across the rev range. This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step walkthrough for installing the HKS Supercharger Kit on your Q60 Red Sport, covering everything from preparation to final calibration. It is intended for experienced DIY mechanics with proper equipment; if you are not comfortable with engine bay work, a professional shop is recommended. For official specifications and the latest kit updates, always refer to HKS’s official product page.

Understanding the HKS Supercharger Kit for the Q60 Red Sport

The HKS Supercharger Kit replaces the factory twin-turbochargers with a single, high-output centrifugal supercharger mounted on a purpose-built bracket. The kit includes a large air-to-air intercooler, a dedicated oil cooler, upgraded fuel injectors, and a HKS F-Con iD engine management piggyback unit (or a custom EcuTek tune depending on the version). The goal is to eliminate turbo lag and provide smooth, immediate throttle response, with peak power gains of 130–160 horsepower over the stock configuration (depending on boost level and supporting mods). The installation is non-reversible, as it requires significant modification to the intake, exhaust, and cooling systems.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before beginning, gather the following tools and supplies. Having everything on hand will save time and prevent mid-project trips to the part store.

Essential Hand Tools

  • Metric socket set (deep and shallow: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm)
  • Torque wrench (capable of 10–100 ft-lb range)
  • Ratchet and breaker bar (1/2-inch drive recommended for stubborn bolts)
  • Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers (various sizes)
  • Combination wrenches (10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
  • Allen/hex key set (metric)
  • Pliers (standard and needle-nose)
  • Trim removal tools (for plastic clips and hoses)
  • Oil filter wrench

Supplies and Consumables

  • High-quality engine oil (5W-30 or as recommended by HKS, approximately 6 quarts)
  • Engine coolant (Nissan long-life coolant or equivalent, 2 gallons)
  • Shop towels or rags
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Thread locker (medium-strength, blue)
  • Anti-seize compound (for exhaust bolts)
  • Masking tape and marker for labeling hoses and connectors
  • Jack and jack stands or a lift
  • Creeper
  • Vacuum pump (for coolant refill bleeding)
  • Boost leak tester (for post-install checks)
  • OBD-II scanner with live data (for monitoring after start-up)
  • Digital multimeter
  • Fuel pressure gauge

Preparation and Safety Steps

Proper preparation ensures a smooth installation and reduces the risk of injury or component damage. Follow these steps before lifting the vehicle or touching any engine components.

  1. Park on level ground. Engage the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels. If using a lift, ensure the vehicle is centered and stable.
  2. Disconnect the battery. Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative terminal clamp, then tuck the cable away from the battery post. This prevents accidental short circuits and protects the ECU from voltage spikes during wiring.
  3. Allow the engine to cool completely. The VR30DDTT runs hot; even after a short drive, coolant and exhaust components can reach over 200°F. Wait at least 2 hours after the engine is turned off, or preferably work on a cold engine the next morning.
  4. Drain the coolant. Place a drain pan under the radiator petcock (located on the passenger side bottom of the radiator). Open the petcock and the coolant reservoir cap to allow a full drain. Dispose of old coolant properly.
  5. Drain the engine oil. Remove the oil drain plug and oil filter to drain the old oil. Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer after draining. This step is necessary because the supercharger kit uses a separate oil supply; you’ll refill with fresh oil later.
  6. Remove the engine undercover. The under-tray is held by 10mm bolts and plastic clips. Set it aside to access the bottom of the engine and transmission area.
  7. Label and photograph. Take photos of the engine bay from multiple angles before disassembling. Use masking tape to label every electrical connector, vacuum line, and coolant hose you disconnect. This will save hours of guesswork during reassembly.

Removing the Stock Twin-Turbo System and Intake

This is the most labor-intensive part of the installation. The factory turbochargers, intercooler, intake piping, and related cooling components must be removed. Work methodically to avoid damaging any wiring or hoses.

Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover and Air Intake System

  • Unscrew the four 10mm bolts holding the engine cover (the plastic shroud with the Infiniti logo). Lift the cover straight up and set it aside.
  • Disconnect the mass airflow (MAF) sensor connector on the intake duct. Use a flathead screwdriver to release the locking tab on the sensor.
  • Loosen the hose clamps at the throttle body and the air filter box. Remove the intake duct and the entire air filter housing (including the resonator).
  • Unbolt the intake manifold runner flap actuator (if present) and set it aside with the harness still connected.

Step 2: Remove the Charge Air Cooler (Intercooler) and Pipes

  • Disconnect the charge air cooler (CAC) inlet and outlet hoses from the turbocharger compressors. These are large silicone hoses with metal spring clamps. Use clamp pliers or a screwdriver.
  • Unbolt the CAC from its bracket at the front of the engine. There are typically four bolts: two on top and two on the bottom. Lift the CAC out from the passenger side.
  • Remove the charge air pipes that run from the turbos to the CAC. These are aluminum tubes with O-ring seals. They may be difficult to extract; gently twist and pull.

Step 3: Remove the Turbochargers

This step requires patience and the right extension to reach the rear turbo mounting bolts. The VR30DDTT twin-turbo setup is tightly packaged.

  • Disconnect the oxygen sensors (front and rear) from each turbo downpipe. Use an oxygen sensor socket or a 22mm wrench. Label them (bank1/bank2, front/rear).
  • Remove the turbo heat shields. They are secured by 10mm bolts and sometimes spring clips.
  • Unbolt the exhaust downpipes from the turbine outlets. There are three bolts per downpipe. When removing the downpipes, the gaskets may stick; replace them with new ones when reinstalling.
  • Disconnect the oil feed and drain lines from each turbo. The oil feeds are small banjo bolts (12mm). Have a drip pan ready; residual oil will spill.
  • Disconnect the coolant lines from the turbo water jackets (banjo fittings, usually 14mm).
  • Remove the four bolts securing each turbo to the exhaust manifold. The turbos will then slide out from the bottom of the engine bay (rear turbo) or top (front turbo). The rear turbo is the more challenging one; you may need to raise the engine slightly or remove the transmission mount crossmember.
  • Clean the exhaust manifold mating surfaces thoroughly. Remove any old gasket material.

Installing the HKS Supercharger Kit

With the stock turbos removed, the engine bay is ready for the supercharger. Follow the HKS instruction manual closely, as the kit includes many custom brackets, pulleys, and hoses.

Step 1: Mount the Supercharger Bracket

  • Install the supercharger mounting bracket onto the engine block, using the same bolt holes that held the stock turbocharger oil drain lines. Apply thread locker to all fasteners.
  • Torque the bracket bolts to the HKS specification (typically 35–45 ft-lb for M10 bolts).

Step 2: Install the Supercharger Unit

  • Place the HKS centrifugal supercharger onto the bracket. Align the four mounting studs with the holes on the bracket.
  • Secure the supercharger with the provided nuts and washers. Torque them to the proper spec (usually 20–30 ft-lb).
  • Route the supercharger drive belt around the crankshaft pulley, the supercharger pulley, and the tensioner pulley. The kit provides a new belt and a custom tensioner bracket; follow HKS’s belt routing diagram.
  • Adjust the belt tension using the tensioner bolt. The belt should deflect about ½ inch under moderate thumb pressure.

Step 3: Install the Air Intake System

  • Attach the HKS high-flow air filter and intake pipe to the supercharger inlet. Use the provided silicone couplers and hose clamps.
  • Position the MAF sensor in the new intake pipe (if the kit includes a MAF bung; otherwise, you may need a custom tune that uses a MAP sensor only).
  • Secure the intake piping with the supplied bracket.

Step 4: Install the Intercooler and Charge Pipes

  • Mount the HKS air-to-air intercooler in the front bumper area. It is larger than the stock CAC and may require modification to the bumper support or crash bar. Drilling may be needed; use the template from HKS.
  • Route the charge pipes from the supercharger outlet to the intercooler, then from the intercooler to the throttle body. Apply a light coat of assembly grease to the O-rings to ease installation.
  • Tighten all silicone hose clamps to 4–5 Nm (do not over-tighten to avoid damaging the hose).

Step 5: Install the Oil Feed and Drain

  • The supercharger has its own oil supply. HKS provides a dedicated oil feed line that connects to the engine’s oil pressure sensor port (usually on the driver side of the block). You will need a T-fitting.
  • Run the oil drain line from the supercharger to the oil pan. The kit includes a drain fitting that replaces the oil drain plug. Remove the stock plug, install the fitting with a new gasket, and connect the drain hose.
  • Torque the oil feed banjo bolt to 16–20 ft-lb and the drain fitting to 25–30 ft-lb.

Step 6: Install the Coolant System

  • Reconnect the factory coolant hoses to the engine block (the ones that previously went to the turbos may now be capped or rerouted per HKS instructions).
  • Bleed the cooling system by filling the radiator with a 50/50 coolant mixture, then running the engine with the heater on until it reaches operating temperature. Check for air pockets and top off as needed.

Step 7: Install the Engine Management Upgrade

  • If your kit comes with the HKS F-Con iD, mount the unit inside the cabin (under the dash) or in the engine bay in a dry location. Connect it to the ECU wiring harness using the provided plug-and-play adapter.
  • If your kit requires an EcuTek tune, contact a certified EcuTek tuner to receive a base calibration file. Load the file using the EcuTek programmer.
  • Install the included boost control solenoid (if any). Route the vacuum lines exactly as per the HKS diagram. A mistake here can cause overboost or underboost.

Final Steps and Post-Installation Checks

After everything is physically installed, double-check all connections before starting the engine.

  • Inspect all hoses and clamps. Ensure no coolant, oil, or vacuum lines are kinked or pinched.
  • Check belt tension. Re-tension the supercharger belt after 20 minutes of runtime.
  • Refill engine oil. Fill with fresh 5W-30 oil. Start the engine briefly, then check the oil level and add as needed.
  • Prime the supercharger oil system. Disconnect the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine for 10 seconds to circulate oil without starting. Reconnect the fuse.
  • Start the engine. Listen for any metallic rattles, squealing belts, or air leaks. Allow the engine to idle until it reaches normal operating temperature (190–210°F).
  • Check for leaks. Inspect all oil and coolant connections while the engine is running. Tighten any weeping fittings.
  • Test drive. Drive gently for the first 10 miles, varying RPMs but staying below 4,000 RPM. Then find a safe area to do a few full-throttle pulls to 7,000 RPM. Monitor boost pressure, fuel trims, and exhaust gas temperatures (EGT) using the OBD-II scanner.
  • Retorque critical fasteners. After 50–100 miles, recheck the supercharger mounting bolts, intercooler brackets, and drive belt tension.

Performance Gains and Considerations

A properly installed HKS Supercharger Kit on the Q60 Red Sport yields substantial power increases. Typical results are 520–560 crankshaft horsepower on 8–9 psi of boost with a safe tune, translating to roughly 450–490 wheel horsepower. The power delivery is remarkably linear compared to the stock turbo setup, with near-instant throttle response from 2,500 RPM onward. The centrifugal supercharger does not generate the low-end torque surge of a twin-scroll turbo, but it pulls hard to redline without falling off.

Additional supporting modifications are recommended to fully utilize the kit: a high-flow fuel pump (e.g., Walbro 525), a larger intercooler (already included in some kit versions), and a performance cat-back exhaust. For reference, HKS and several tuners have documented builds; see HKS Japan’s official VR30 supercharger page for dyno charts. Also consult forums like Q60Forum.com for community experiences.

Maintenance After Installation

The supercharger requires periodic maintenance to ensure longevity. Change the supercharger oil every 15,000 miles (HKS specifies a specific synthetic oil, usually part of the kit). Inspect the drive belt every service interval; replace every 30,000 miles. The intercooler core should be cleaned of debris each year. Keep an eye on the oil feed line connections; any leaks can quickly damage the supercharger bearings.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

  • Insufficient belt clearance. Ensure the supercharger pulley is aligned with the crankshaft pulley. Misalignment will cause belt noise and premature wear.
  • Vacuum line errors. The boost reference signal is critical. Use a boost leak checker to verify the entire system before the first start.
  • Fuel system underperformance. Stock fuel injectors are borderline at 500+ hp. The HKS kit typically includes upgraded injectors, but confirm that your fuel pump can keep up. A low-pressure symptom: the engine goes lean at high RPM.
  • Cooling system air pockets. The VR30 is sensitive to coolant air pockets. Use a vacuum fill tool or bleed the system thoroughly. Overheating can cause severe engine damage.
  • Not updating the tune. The supercharger drastically changes airflow. Running without a proper tune can cause detonation, melted pistons, or worse. Always use a professional tune from a reputable shop that has experience with HKS VR30 kits. Check EcuTek’s tuning center locator to find a qualified tuner.

Conclusion

Installing the HKS Supercharger Kit on the Q60 Red Sport is a major undertaking, but the rewards are immense: a unique driving experience blending the responsiveness of a supercharger with the high-rpm power delivery of a modern centrifugal system. This guide provides a structural outline, but always refer to the HKS installation manual that comes with your specific kit – part numbers, torque specs, and vacuum routing diagrams vary by revision. If at any point you feel out of your depth, it is far cheaper to hire a professional than to replace a blown engine. With careful work and a good tune, your Q60 will become one of the quickest and most thrilling grand tourers on the road.