performance-upgrades
Step-by-step Installation of the Mopar 360 Performance Camshaft and Intake
Table of Contents
Introduction
Upgrading your engine with the Mopar 360 Performance Camshaft and Intake Manifold is one of the most effective ways to unlock additional horsepower and torque. This detailed guide walks you through every phase of the installation, from selecting the right tools to the first test drive. Whether you are a seasoned mechanic or a dedicated hobbyist, following these steps ensures a reliable, high-performance outcome. Proper preparation, meticulous attention to torque specifications, and careful break-in procedures are essential to maximize the longevity of your new components.
Tools and Materials Needed
Gathering the correct tools before you begin saves time and prevents mid-project interruptions. Below is a comprehensive list, along with optional items that simplify the job.
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Socket and ratchet set (metric and SAE) | Removing and installing bolts |
| Torque wrench (ft-lb and in-lb ranges) | Precise tightening to factory specs |
| Combination wrench set | Reaching tight spots |
| Gasket scraper / razor blade | Cleaning old gasket material |
| New intake manifold gaskets (recommend Fel-Pro or Mopar) | Sealing the intake |
| Camshaft assembly lube (e.g., Crane Cams, Comp Cams) | Protecting lobes during initial start-up |
| Engine oil (break-in oil recommended) | Priming and first start |
| Oil filter (new) | Replace during oil change |
| Coolant (if removing coolant lines) | Refill after reassembly |
| Shop towels and degreaser | Cleaning surfaces |
| Thread locker (medium strength) | Securing bolts exposed to vibration |
Optional but helpful: Dial indicator and base for measuring cam lift, degree wheel for timing verification, and a helper for lifting heavy intake manifolds.
Preparation: Safety and Workspace
Before turning a wrench, ensure your workspace is well-lit, ventilated, and free of clutter. A clean engine bay reduces the risk of debris falling into the engine during disassembly.
- Disconnect the battery (negative terminal first). This prevents accidental starter engagement or short circuits.
- Allow the engine to cool completely – at least two hours after last run. Hot components can cause burns and expand tolerances, making bolt removal difficult.
- Drain the engine oil and coolant if you plan to remove the intake manifold (coolant often flows through intake passages). Dispose of fluids properly.
- Remove the air cleaner assembly, throttle body or carburetor, and any vacuum lines or wiring that obstruct access to the intake manifold.
- Label all electrical connectors and vacuum hoses with tape and markers to simplify reassembly.
Refer to your vehicle’s service manual for specific torque values and procedures – they often include critical details like bolt tightening sequences.
Removing the Old Camshaft and Intake Manifold
Step 1: Remove the Intake Manifold
Start by unbolting the intake manifold. Use a socket to loosen the bolts in the reverse of the factory tightening sequence (usually from the center outward). Carefully lift the manifold – it may stick to the gaskets. Place it on a clean workbench. Scrape away all old gasket material from the block and cylinder heads. Wipe the surfaces with brake cleaner or acetone to remove oil residue. Never use a power tool that could damage the aluminum surfaces.
Step 2: Remove the Timing Cover and Timing Set
With the intake removed, access the timing cover. Remove the harmonic balancer (requires a puller), then unbolt the timing cover. Keep the gasket surface clean. Remove the timing chain or belt and tensioner. Mark the chain orientation relative to the cam and crank sprockets before removal – this helps when installing the new cam. If reusing the timing set, replace the chain if it shows any signs of wear or stretch.
Step 3: Remove the Old Camshaft
Unbolt the camshaft retainer plate (if equipped) and carefully slide the cam out of the block. Support the cam with both hands to avoid damaging the bearings. Inspect the old cam for lobe wear – severe wear indicates an oiling issue that should be addressed before installing the new part. Check the cam bearings as well; if they are scored, the engine should be rebuilt.
Installing the Mopar 360 Performance Camshaft
Now you are ready to install the Mopar 360 Performance Camshaft. This cam is designed for increased duration and lift, enhancing mid-range and top-end power. Follow these steps carefully to avoid damaging the new cam.
- Apply assembly lube generously to the cam lobes, distributor gear, and cam journals. Do not skip this step – it prevents galling during the first start.
- Slide the cam into the block very slowly, rotating it slightly to align the journals. Do not force it; if it binds, remove and check for obstructions.
- Install the cam thrust plate or retainer and torque the bolts to specifications (typically 18–20 ft-lb). Verify end-play using a dial indicator – acceptable range is usually 0.002–0.006 inch.
- Align the timing marks. Place the cam sprocket on the cam and align the dot with the crank sprocket dot at top dead center (TDC) for cylinder #1. Install the timing chain, ensuring the marks remain aligned. Double-check by rotating the engine two full turns – the marks should line up again.
- Torque the cam sprocket bolts to the manufacturer’s spec (often 35–40 ft-lb). Use thread locker on these bolts.
- Install the timing cover with a new gasket and seal. Torque bolts in a cross pattern to spec.
Pro tip: After the cam is installed, prime the oiling system by turning the oil pump with a drill and priming tool until oil flows from the rocker arms (if engine is assembled). This ensures immediate lubrication at start-up.
Installing the Performance Intake Manifold
With the cam and timing cover in place, move on to the intake manifold. The Mopar Performance Intake Manifold is typically a dual-plane design that improves throttle response and low-end torque while supporting high-rpm flow.
- Install intake gaskets. Use high-quality gaskets matched to your cylinder head ports. Apply a thin bead of RTV silicone at the block-to-head joint (the “China wall”) to prevent coolant leaks.
- Lower the intake manifold carefully onto the engine. Rock it slightly to seat the gaskets. Do not slide it side to side, as that may displace the gaskets.
- Hand-tighten the intake bolts in the sequence recommended by the manifold manufacturer. Typically this starts at the center and works outward. Torque in three stages: first to 10 ft-lb, then to 20 ft-lb, finally to the final spec (often 30–35 ft-lb for aluminum manifolds). Re-torque after 100 miles.
- Connect coolant passages and vacuum lines as labeled. Install a new thermostat and gasket if needed.
Important: If your intake manifold uses EGR, ensure the passage is clear. A performance cam often benefits from deleting EGR, but that may affect emissions legality in your area. Check local regulations.
Final Assembly and Initial Startup
Reassembly
- Reinstall the harmonic balancer using the correct bolt, torqued to spec (typically 130–140 ft-lb on small block Mopar).
- Install the belt(s), alternator, power steering pump, and other accessories removed during prep.
- Fill the engine with break-in oil (high in zinc for flat tappet cams) and a new oil filter. If your cam requires an additive, use it exactly as directed.
- Refill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Bleed air from the system using the radiator bleed valve (if equipped).
- Reconnect the battery and double-check all wiring, hoses, and bolts. Ensure no tools are left in the engine bay.
Initial Startup
Start the engine and bring it to a fast idle (2000–2500 RPM) immediately. Do not let it idle slowly. Running at higher RPM ensures oil splashes onto the cam lobes. Listen for any abnormal tapping or knocking. If the engine sounds smooth, continue running for 20 minutes without stopping. This break-in period seats the cam lobes and lifters.
Warning: If you hear a pronounced tapping that does not go away after 30 seconds, shut the engine down and investigate. A collapsed lifter or incorrect preload can ruin a cam within minutes.
Testing and Evaluation
After the initial break-in, check for fluid leaks around the intake manifold and timing cover. Use a flashlight to inspect all gasket edges. Re-torque the intake bolts once the engine has cooled.
- Check ignition timing and adjust base timing to the manufacturer’s recommendation (typically 10–15 degrees BTDC for performance cams). Use a timing light.
- Listen for valve train noise – a slight clicking from hydraulic lifters is normal; loud clattering indicates a problem.
- Take the vehicle for a test drive. Accelerate gradually and then at full throttle to feel the power band. The Mopar 360 cam should start pulling strongly from 2500–3000 RPM and continue to 5500–6000 RPM.
- Monitor oil pressure and coolant temperature. Elevated temperatures may indicate incorrect timing or a lean mixture.
If you notice any hesitation, stumble, or poor idle, your carburetor or fuel injection system may need recalibration. A performance cam changes the engine’s vacuum signal, often requiring a rejet or an ECU tune.
Tuning Considerations
Installing a performance camshaft and intake manifold often reveals that your current fuel and ignition setup is no longer optimal. Here are common adjustments:
- Carbureted engines: The lower manifold vacuum at idle may require a smaller power valve (often 6.5” to 8.5”) and richer idle mixture screws. Consider a vacuum secondary carb rated for your new airflow.
- Fuel-injected engines: A remapped ECU or a piggyback tuner (e.g., Holley Terminator X) allows you to adjust fuel and spark tables. Expect to spend time on a dyno for peak power.
- Ignition timing: Increase total advance to around 34–36 degrees by 3000–3500 RPM. Use a vacuum advance canister that suits your cam’s vacuum profile.
For further guidance, consult resources like Mopar Performance’s technical guides or popular forums such as For A Bodies Only for real-world tuning advice.
Conclusion
Successfully installing the Mopar 360 Performance Camshaft and Intake Manifold is a rewarding project that can dramatically improve your engine’s power and responsiveness. The key to a long-lasting upgrade lies in meticulous assembly, proper lubrication, and a disciplined break-in procedure. By following the steps outlined above and addressing tuning needs, you can enjoy the full potential of these Mopar components for thousands of miles. Always consult your vehicle’s service manual and specific component instructions for torque specs and tolerances – they are your best reference. With careful work and attention to detail, your revitalized engine will deliver the performance you expect from the Mopar name.