Why Upgrade to the 19T Turbo on Your Volvo T5?

The Volvo T5 engine, whether found in the 850, S70, V70, or early S60, came from the factory with a small-frame turbocharger—typically a 13T or 16T. While these turbos offer decent low-end spool, they run out of breath in the mid-to-upper RPM range. The 19T turbo, originally fitted to certain later Volvo models and aftermarket upgrades, features a larger compressor wheel and turbine housing. This upgrade shifts the powerband higher while still maintaining strong low-end response because of its relatively well-matched A/R ratio.

With a 19T swap, you can expect 15-30% more airflow over a stock 16T, translating to improved top-end power and the ability to run higher boost levels safely—provided you also upgrade your fueling and intercooler. Many enthusiasts report reaching the 350-400 horsepower range with supporting mods. The 19T is also a direct bolt-on for most T5 engines, making it an ideal choice for those seeking a significant performance increase without major fabrication work.

This guide covers the entire installation process, from gathering tools to tuning considerations. Every step includes torque specs, common pitfalls, and tips to ensure your upgrade is reliable and leak-free.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before starting, gather all required components and tools. Running to the parts store mid-install is frustrating, so check this list twice.

  • 19T turbocharger – Ensure it comes with the correct actuator for your application (some are wastegate-only, others CBV-equipped).
  • New gasket set – Includes turbo-to-manifold gasket, downpipe gasket, oil return line gasket, and oil feed line copper washers. Always replace gaskets—never reuse them.
  • Oil supply line – The stock line may fit, but a braided stainless steel line is recommended for durability and easier routing.
  • Coolant lines – The 19T uses water-cooled bearing housing. Check condition of the hard pipes and hoses; replace if corroded.
  • Socket set (metric, 10mm-19mm) – Including deep sockets for hard-to-reach bolts.
  • Combination wrenches – Especially 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 22mm for the oil return banjo bolt.
  • Torx bit set – Many Volvo engine covers and brackets use Torx fasteners (T25, T30, T40).
  • Torque wrench – Critical for tightening bolts to manufacturer specs (especially the turbo manifold studs).
  • PB Blaster or penetrating oil – For rusty bolts on the downpipe and manifold.
  • Jack and jack stands – You'll need to access the car's underside.
  • Safety glasses and mechanic gloves – Hot coolant and oil can cause serious injury.
  • Boost gauge (optional but highly recommended) – To monitor turbo output and adjust the wastegate rod. A quality aftermarket boost gauge helps dial in the setup.

Preparation and Safety

Work in a well-ventilated area. The car should be cold when you begin, as you'll be working around hot exhaust components and coolant. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first to prevent accidental short circuits or ECU damage.

If possible, soak the manifold studs and downpipe bolts with penetrating oil the night before. This drastically reduces the chance of snapping a stud, which would turn a one-day job into a multi-day repair.

Remove the engine cover (usually a plastic shroud held by three or four Torx screws) and set it aside. You'll also need to remove the air intake duct and the heat shield over the turbo. Label any disconnected hoses and electrical connectors with masking tape and a marker—it saves headaches during reassembly.

Step-by-Step Installation

Step 1: Remove the Old Turbocharger

Drain the coolant by opening the petcock at the bottom of the radiator or disconnecting a lower hose. Collect it in a clean container if you plan to reuse it (though fresh coolant is always best). Remove the turbo coolant return hose and the oil return line from the turbo to the block.

On the top side, disconnect the wastegate actuator rod from the wastegate arm. On most 19T swaps, you'll be reusing your stock actuator or upgrading to an adjustable unit—keep track of the C-clip. Unplug any electrical connections (boost control solenoid, CPV sensor if equipped).

Use a 13mm or 14mm socket to unbolt the downpipe from the turbo exhaust outlet. Often this is the most rusted joint; a quality penetrating oil and patience are essential. Once the downpipe is free, remove the intake pipe from the turbo compressor inlet.

Now unbolt the turbo from the exhaust manifold. There are typically four bolts/nuts (10mm or 12mm) on the flange. Support the turbo while you remove the last bolt—it's heavy and can damage nearby hoses if dropped. Lift the old turbo out from above. It may be easier to unbolt the oil feed line first and let the turbo come out with the line attached.

Step 2: Prepare the 19T Turbo

Compared to the stock 16T, the 19T has a larger compressor wheel and sometimes a different wastegate flange orientation. Check if your 19T came with an angle bracket for the wastegate actuator—some need to be swapped from your old turbo. Install the new gaskets on the manifold and downpipe flanges. Also attach the oil feed and return lines to the new turbo using fresh copper washers (torque to 18-22 ft-lbs for the banjo bolts).

If you're reusing your old actuator, check that the rod length is correct for the 19T wastegate arm. You may need to adjust the rod length to achieve the desired boost level. A rule of thumb: start with the rod as long as possible (less preload) and shorten it gradually to increase boost. Many builders pre-set to around 5-6 psi of wastegate spring pressure

Step 3: Install the 19T Turbo

Carefully lower the new turbo onto the exhaust manifold studs. Ensure the oil return flange aligns with the block port. Hand-thread the four mounting nuts. Torque them to 30-35 ft-lbs in a cross pattern. If your 19T uses a different oil return angle, you may need a custom oil return line—measure and order one beforehand if needed.

Reattach the downpipe using a new gasket. Torque the downpipe nuts to 30 ft-lbs. Reconnect the coolant hoses, the oil feed line, and the wastegate actuator rod. Make sure the rod clip is fully seated. Refill the coolant system and check for leaks at every connection.

Step 4: Reassemble Intake and Engine Cover

Install the intake pipe and tighten all clamps to 25 in-lbs (no more, or you'll warp the silicone couplers). Reattach the heat shield and engine cover. Double-check that all vacuum lines are routed correctly, especially the line to the wastegate actuator and the bypass valve.

Reconnect the battery negative terminal. Do not start the engine yet—you need to prime the turbo oil system.

Post-Installation Checks and Tuning

Prime the turbo: Disconnect the ignition coil or fuel pump relay, then crank the engine for 10-15 seconds. This spools the oil pump and lubricates the turbo bearings before any combustion. After cranking, reconnect the ignition/fuel system.

Start the engine and let it idle. Check for oil and coolant leaks immediately. The turbo will smoke slightly as any assembly oil or coating burns off—that's normal. After a few minutes, rev the engine gently to 2000-2500 RPM and hold for a few seconds to confirm steady oil pressure.

Boost and Wastegate Calibration

If you have a boost gauge, take a short test drive in a safe area. Watch the boost gauge. The 19T should reach 12-15 psi with the stock tune (if the actuator is set correctly). If you're seeing over 18 psi, the wastegate rod may be too short—lengthen it and test again. If boost is below 10 psi, shorten the rod gradually.

For higher boost levels (18+ psi), you must have a tune that adds fuel and adjusts timing. Running the stock map with a 19T at high boost can cause knock and engine damage. Consider a quality ECU tune from a Volvo specialist to fully unlock the 19T's potential.

Turbo Responsiveness and Spool

One reason the 19T is loved on T5s is its excellent spool characteristics. Despite being larger than stock, it typically reaches full boost by 2800-3000 RPM (assuming proper wastegate setup and no boost leaks). If spool feels laggy, check for exhaust leaks at the manifold-to-turbo joint or a stuck wastegate flapper.

Common Issues and Troubleshooting

  • Oil leak from turbo center section: Often caused by a clogged oil return line. Ensure the block drain is not blocked and use the correct return line gasket.
  • Overboosting or underboosting: Check wastegate actuator operation—rod may be binding or spring may be weak. Replace with a heavy-duty aftermarket actuator if needed.
  • Turbo lag or surge: Surge indicates the compressor wheel is out of its efficiency range—common if you run very high boost (>22 psi) on a small-diameter compressor housing. Consider a ported or upgraded compressor housing.
  • Coolant loss: Inspect the turbo water hose connections and the o-ring on the coolant pipe where it enters the block. Replace with OEM coolant hoses from FCP Euro for a perfect fit.

Conclusion

Swapping to a 19T turbo is one of the most cost-effective upgrades for a Volvo T5. With careful preparation, attention to torque specs, and proper tuning, you'll enjoy substantially better mid-range and top-end power while keeping the responsive spool that makes the T5 such a fun engine. Follow this guide, invest in quality gaskets and lines, and don't skip the post-install calibration steps. Your Volvo will reward you with a thrilling driving experience every time you press the accelerator. Good luck—and welcome to the 19T club.