Why Replacing Bushings on Your Subaru Forester Matters

Suspension bushings are the unsung heroes of your Forester’s ride quality and handling. These rubber or polyurethane components cushion the metal connections between your suspension arms, sway bars, and subframe. Over time, Forester bushings wear out due to road grime, temperature extremes, and hundreds of thousands of cycles. Worn bushings cause vague steering, excessive play in the suspension, uneven tire wear, and a clunking noise over bumps. Replacing them restores factory-like precision and can prevent costly damage to ball joints and tie rod ends. Whether you are a DIY weekend warrior or a seasoned tech, having a solid process for bushing replacement makes the job faster, safer, and more reliable.

Tools and Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the right equipment. Using incorrect tools can damage the new bushings or surrounding hardware. Here is a complete list for a Subaru Forester bushing replacement:

  • Floor jack and pair of jack stands (3-ton capacity recommended)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Metric socket set (10mm to 22mm) with ratchet and breaker bar
  • Combination wrenches (10mm–19mm)
  • Torque wrench (ft-lb range)
  • Bushing press kit or C-clamp with appropriately sized sockets
  • Hammer and brass drift punch
  • Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or Kroil)
  • Lubricant (silicone-based or polyurethane-specific grease)
  • Safety glasses and mechanic’s gloves
  • Wire brush for cleaning rust
  • Replacement bushings – OEM or aftermarket (polyurethane for longevity)

Preparation Steps

Proper preparation prevents damage and speeds the job. Park the Forester on a level concrete surface. Engage the parking brake and place chocks behind the rear wheels (or front if working on the rear). Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle at the proper lift points – the front crossmember or rear differential. Place jack stands under the frame rails or subframe. Never rely solely on the jack. Safety is paramount: always check that the vehicle is stable before crawling underneath. If you are replacing control arm bushings, consider removing the wheel for better access. Apply penetrating oil to all bolts and bushing shells 15–20 minutes before you start working. This step alone can save you from snapping a seized bolt.

Identifying the Bushings That Need Replacing

Subaru Forester suspension bushings are found in several locations. The most common wear points include:

  • Front lower control arm bushings – both the large rear bushing and the smaller front bushing
  • Rear trailing arm bushings
  • Front and rear sway bar bushings (both the D-bushings at the frame and end link bushings)
  • Rear subframe bushings (less common but notable on older models)
  • Strut mount bushings (often replaced as part of a strut assembly)

Visually inspect each bushing: cracks, bulging, or rubber that has separated from the metal sleeve indicates failure. You can also check for excessive play by prying on the suspension arm with a pry bar and watching for movement at the bushing joint.

Removing Old Bushings

Removal is the most labor-intensive part of the job. Rust and corrosion can make bushings stubborn. Guide for each bushing type:

Front Lower Control Arm Rear Bushing

This is a large, fluid-filled bushing that often wears first on Foresters. After removing the control arm from the vehicle (two bolts at the subframe and two at the ball joint/knuckle), place the arm in a vise. Use a bushing press or a large C-clamp with a socket that matches the bushing’s outer diameter. Apply steady pressure to push the old bushing out. If you lack a press, you can burn out the rubber using a torch (outdoors, with a fire extinguisher nearby) and cut the outer shell with a sawzall or chisel. Wear a respirator when burning rubber.

Sway Bar Bushings

For sway bar D-bushings, simply unbolt the bracket holding the bushing to the subframe. Pry the old bushing off the sway bar. Use a wire brush to clean the bar before installing the new one. Lubricate the inside of the new bushing with silicone grease to prevent squeaking.

Rear Trailing Arm Bushing

This bushing is usually pressed into the trailing arm. Remove the trailing arm from the vehicle (brake caliper, hub, and control arms must be detached). Use a press or the same burn-out method. Some aftermarket bushings are two-piece designs that do not require a press – they can be tightened with included hardware.

Installing New Bushings

Installation requires cleanliness and the correct technique to avoid premature failure.

Press-In Bushings

Clean the bore thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Apply a thin coat of lubricant (silicone or the grease provided with polyurethane bushings) to the outer sleeve of the new bushing and the inside of the control arm. Use the bushing press or C-clamp to slowly and evenly push the bushing into place. Ensure it is aligned – the bushing should sit flush with the arm on both sides. Stop if you feel binding. For polyurethane bushings, do not overtighten the pivot bolt until the suspension is at ride height – this prevents the bushing from being twisted and failing early.

Sway Bar Bushing Installation

Slide the new D-bushing over the sway bar. Apply grease to the inside. Position the bracket and tighten bolts to torque specification given below. End link bushings are simply replaced as part of the end link assembly (often cheaper to replace the entire end link).

Reassembly and Torque Specifications

Reassembling suspension components correctly is as important as installation. Always tighten bolts with the vehicle on the ground (at ride height) to prevent bushing preload. If you tighten bolts while the suspension is hanging, the bushing will be twisted once the car is lowered, leading to rapid failure. Use a torque wrench for critical fasteners:

  • Front control arm rear bushing bolt to subframe: 103–111 ft-lb
  • Sway bar bracket bolts (front/rear): 17–22 ft-lb
  • End link nuts: 26–33 ft-lb
  • Rear trailing arm to knuckle bolt: 85–95 ft-lb

After lowering the vehicle, bounce the suspension a few times to settle everything, then re-torque the bolts. Reinstall the wheels and tighten lug nuts to 80–90 ft-lb (check owner’s manual).

Post-Installation Checks

Take the Forester for a test drive. Listen for new noises – if you hear a squeak, re-lubricate poly bushings. If you hear a clunk, re-check bolt tightness. Confirm steering response is tight with no wandering. Alignment is mandatory after bushing replacement that affects control arm positions. Even if you only replaced sway bar bushings, a front-end alignment is recommended. Worn bushings can cause subtle alignment shifts. After 500 miles, re-inspect bushing bolts for proper torque. Polyurethane bushings may settle and need a quick re-torque.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using a blowtorch near fuel lines or brake lines – always move rubber and plastic lines out of the way.
  • Reusing old hardware – bolts can stretch; replace subframe bolts or use new OEM bolts where listed.
  • Misaligning the bushing slit – some aftermarket bushings have a slit that must face a certain direction (usually towards the rear of the car).
  • Forcing a bushing with a hammer – you can damage the metal sleeve; use a press or driver tool instead.
  • Skipping the penetrating oil step – saves time overall and prevents broken bolts.

When to Call a Professional

If you do not have access to a bushing press, or if you encounter seized bolts that snap, it is wise to take the control arms to a machine shop or replace them with new or rebuilt arms (which come with bushings pre-installed). The time and frustration saved can be worth the cost. Additionally, if you are not confident in your ability to align the suspension afterward, a professional alignment shop can handle the final torque and alignment.

Resources and Further Reading

For detailed torque specs and diagrams, consult the Subaru OEM parts catalog or a Subaru Forester owner’s forum for model-specific tips. If you are considering polyurethane bushings, Whiteline and SuperPro offer direct-fit kits with detailed instructions. For a comprehensive service manual, ALLDATA DIY provides model-specific repair data. Replacing bushings is a rewarding task that sharpens your Forester’s handling and extends the life of your suspension. With careful preparation and the right approach, you can achieve professional results in your own garage.